Help me design my E-ring!

[Jlw85chs]

My boyfriend and I are designing my future engagement ring, and I’m realizing there is so much to learn! I’m drawn towards vintage style and think I want an OEC or transitional cut diamond. I like the chunky facets and smaller culet, but beyond that I’m lost. I’m attaching pics of the setting we are leaning towards but open to suggestions for improvement. I originally wanted flat tab prongs but have read that claw prongs are safer. Any thoughts on the setting or what to look for in an antique diamond are welcome! Budget is $8K total (~$6K for stone).

 

[diamondsR4eVR]

I’m no expert as I prefer either solitaires or a 3 stone ER. It’s all about the wearer and their preferences. But I will say this, if you want an OEC or transitional cut I’d look up those stones specifically and see how they are set. I think your stone may be “swallowed” in the setting you posted and you won’t be able to truly showcase its beauty and even history. With older cuts I like older looking settings like “romantic settings” or a simpler settings.
Perhaps a nice pave setting instead of channel set would work? I’m not always a fan of channel settings if I see a lot of metal. I’m a less metal kind of person
Again, personal style. GL! There are some great OEC vendors. I look forward to your journey as I love the older stones and would love to see them in person someday.

 

[Jlw85chs]

I’m no expert as I prefer either solitaires or a 3 stone ER. It’s all about the wearer and their preferences. But I will say this, if you want an OEC or transitional cut I’d look up those stones specifically and see how they are set. I think your stone may be “swallowed” in the setting you posted and you won’t be able to truly showcase its beauty and even history. With older cuts I like older looking settings like “romantic settings” or a simpler settings.
Perhaps a nice pave setting instead of channel set would work? I’m not always a fan of channel settings if I see a lot of metal. I’m a less metal kind of person
Again, personal style. GL! There are some great OEC vendors. I look forward to your journey as I love the older stones and would love to see them in person someday.

Thanks for the feedback! I was trying to base my ring design off of some designs I saw from Erstwhile and Erika Winters which are set with old stones, but I agree the setting is somewhat modern. I guess something else for me to think about... thanks!

 

[tyty333]

James Allen has a few settings like the ones you posted above...I would do claw prongs on them.

14K White Gold Reverse Taper Milgrain Diamond Engagement Ring

The center stone of your choice is sure to shine when set in this breathtaking graduated pav?, double beaded designer shank. Statuesque and stunning, it encompasses old time glamour while adding a modern feel.

www.jamesallen.com

or this one that you could probably have milgrain added to

14K White Gold Inspired Diamond Engagement Ring

The elegance of the lines in this design are as timeless and refined as it is unique. Graduated Pavé set diamonds create a kaleidoscope of colors along the shank of the ring, perfectly complementing the center diamond of your choice.

www.jamesallen.com

Just all depends if you want the main stone to be the highlight or the overall ring to be highlighted. Some people prefer one over the other.

Most people usually find the stone that speaks to them then use the stone to help them design the setting. When you have the stone in hand
you get a better feel for what would accent the stone as far as settings go. Good luck!

 

[Starfacet]

Hi @Jlw85chs! The bead set pave setting you love would be very appropriate for an OEC or transitional, even if it were a smaller stone. Claw prongs aren't necessarily safer than tab prongs, but they would look good in that ring. The millegrain adds a vintage touch, but you could also put a bit of engraving on the smooth part of the shank to make it even more vintage-y! Or leave it plain. It'd be gorgeous either way!

 

[Jlw85chs]

James Allen has a few settings like the ones you posted above...I would do claw prongs on them.

14K White Gold Reverse Taper Milgrain Diamond Engagement Ring

The center stone of your choice is sure to shine when set in this breathtaking graduated pav?, double beaded designer shank. Statuesque and stunning, it encompasses old time glamour while adding a modern feel.

www.jamesallen.com

or this one that you could probably have milgrain added to

14K White Gold Inspired Diamond Engagement Ring

The elegance of the lines in this design are as timeless and refined as it is unique. Graduated Pavé set diamonds create a kaleidoscope of colors along the shank of the ring, perfectly complementing the center diamond of your choice.

www.jamesallen.com

Just all depends if you want the main stone to be the highlight or the overall ring to be highlighted. Some people prefer one over the other.

Most people usually find the stone that speaks to them then use the stone to help them design the setting. When you have the stone in hand
you get a better feel for what would accent the stone as far as settings go. Good luck!

Thanks! What is the best way to find an old stone? The jeweler I’m working with doesn’t have any but says that he can order them if I tell him what I want. I’m not sure exactly what I want since I haven’t seen many old stones in person, just online... providing details about grading/reports is foreign to me. Will I get better selection with a diamond distributor online? I have been looking at jewels by grace and ivy and rose...

 

[Starfacet]

Thanks! What is the best way to find an old stone? The jeweler I’m working with doesn’t have any but says that he can order them if I tell him what I want. I’m not sure exactly what I want since I haven’t seen many old stones in person, just online... providing details about grading/reports is foreign to me. Will I get better selection with a diamond distributor online? I have been looking at jewels by grace and ivy and rose...

I'd also talk to Adam at Old World Diamonds, Alex Park at Parks Fine Group, and Larry at Platt Boutique Jewelry in LA. Yes, you'll get better selection with one of these vendors, most likely. Larry might even have a completed ring like what you're looking for.
Here's one that Alex has already sold, but he could replicate with a different stone:

View this content on Instagram

View this content on Instagram

 

[diamondsR4eVR]

Actually, now that I looked again- the band @Starfacet just posted from Alex looks like the one you posted OP. So that setting will work beautifully. There are a few great OEC vendors. I’m hoping others comment since they have more experience with those sellers.

 

[tyty333]

@Starfacet got most of the ones I know...

You can also check out Distinctive Gem. These are newly cut stones with Ideal like return that look like old stones. You dont get the
romance of a stone with history but you do get Ideal light return and beautiful faceting.

August Vintage European cuts

August Vintage European Cut

The August Vintage European Cut is the world's first patented Ideal Cut European Cut round from yesteryear.

www.distinctivegem.com

August Vintage Cushion cuts

August Vintage Cushion

The August Vintage Cushion is the world's first patented Super Ideal Vintage Cut Old Mine Brilliant.

www.distinctivegem.com

I believe some of these are old stones...check with Jonathan

The Old Mine Collection

This collection features a series of newly acquired oldies but goodies! If you love the old world charm of authentic antique vintage diamonds you can't go wrong with one of these selections as they are seriously priced to move.

www.distinctivegem.com

 

[Starfacet]

Also take a look at Jack Weir. They welcome offers on their pieces, so don't hesitate to negotiate!
https://jackweirandsons.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxqve6Yj96AIVCM-yCh2i4AAOEAAYASAAEgKBDvD_BwE

 

[Starfacet]

@Starfacet got most of the ones I know...

You can also check out Distinctive Gem. These are newly cut stones with Ideal like return that look like old stones. You dont get the
romance of a stone with history but you do get Ideal light return and beautiful faceting.

August Vintage European cuts

August Vintage European Cut

The August Vintage European Cut is the world's first patented Ideal Cut European Cut round from yesteryear.

www.distinctivegem.com

August Vintage Cushion cuts

August Vintage Cushion

The August Vintage Cushion is the world's first patented Super Ideal Vintage Cut Old Mine Brilliant.

www.distinctivegem.com

I believe some of these are old stones...check with Jonathan

The Old Mine Collection

This collection features a series of newly acquired oldies but goodies! If you love the old world charm of authentic antique vintage diamonds you can't go wrong with one of these selections as they are seriously priced to move.

www.distinctivegem.com

Jon can do the setting that the OP likes too!

 

[molecule]

I love that style setting. I have a vintage setting very similar that I purchased preloved.
If it were me, I'd love to see your setting images altered to have a more in curved basket so that it hugs the stone more and more graduated side stones.

 

[headlight]

I think the setting you like is too modern for an antique-cut stone.

 

[foxinsox]

I think that setting is pretty vintage style with the milgrain etc for an old-cut. I'd suggest getting single-cuts in the bead-set shoulders if you can to help match facets in terms of being chunky rather than splintery. I love tab prongs! and honestly unless you've got teeny tabs and a huge stone, they should be equally secure so go for whichever style you like the most. Double claws also look lovely with a 4-prong setting - like the one from Parksfine above.
Do you know what style of old cut you like the most?
What is your priority in terms of cut/colour/carat etc?
I have a little doubt in your jeweller being able to easily order you a good old cut since a lot of jewellers tend to assess old cuts only in their value for a recut into an MRB. The ones who specialise in old cuts mentioned above would be who I'd talk to about sourcing the stone from.
You need to see them in different lights to know if you like the stone. We can definitely help with working out if there's potential in candidate stones but mostly with old cuts, you use your eyes more than the stats to determine if you have a winner.

 

[Starfacet]

I think the setting you like is too modern for an antique-cut stone.

Gonna have to disagree with you there. Did you see the Instagram post from Parks Fine Group I linked above? What about the setting that OP likes would preclude her from putting an antique stone in it?

 

[Starfacet]

Here's a vintage Tiffany & Co from Eragem that has a similar feel. The listing says the stone is not original to the ring, but you get the idea. And it has the single cut side diamonds that @foxinsox was talking about.
Transitional Cut Diamond Engagement Ring Tiffany & Co

 

[Jlw85chs]

@Starfacet got most of the ones I know...

You can also check out Distinctive Gem. These are newly cut stones with Ideal like return that look like old stones. You dont get the
romance of a stone with history but you do get Ideal light return and beautiful faceting.

August Vintage European cuts

August Vintage European Cut

The August Vintage European Cut is the world's first patented Ideal Cut European Cut round from yesteryear.

www.distinctivegem.com

August Vintage Cushion cuts

August Vintage Cushion

The August Vintage Cushion is the world's first patented Super Ideal Vintage Cut Old Mine Brilliant.

www.distinctivegem.com

I believe some of these are old stones...check with Jonathan

The Old Mine Collection

This collection features a series of newly acquired oldies but goodies! If you love the old world charm of authentic antique vintage diamonds you can't go wrong with one of these selections as they are seriously priced to move.

www.distinctivegem.com

Thanks! I love the look of the August Vintage Rounds! Tough choice between that or an old stone!

Any thoughts on diamond color? I was thinking that I should go with F or better, and that warmer stones would only look good in a yellow gold setting which I don’t want. I haven’t seen them in person though...

 

[Jlw85chs]

I love that style setting. I have a vintage setting very similar that I purchased preloved.
If it were me, I'd love to see your setting images altered to have a more in curved basket so that it hugs the stone more and more graduated side stones.

Thanks for the input! Any idea on what the width would be? I have small hands (size 5) and trying to keep the band narrow. It’s currently a 2mm that narrows to 1.5mm at the base of the band, but the side stones are all the same size. If I want it more graduated, would I have to go wider than 2mm at the top of the band? I was told even 1.5mm is getting too narrow per the jeweler...

 

[Starfacet]

Any thoughts on diamond color? I was thinking that I should go with F or better, and that warmer stones would only look good in a yellow gold setting which I don’t want. I haven’t seen them in person though...

The subjective nature of color in diamonds makes this an impossible question to answer unless you start seeing stones in person. Someone who says you should go with an F or better, well that sounds like a Harry Winston sales pitch. Old stones or new "old" stones tend to look great and more authentic in lower colors. Light return, based on cut quality, has major influence on how color is perceived to the eye. Low color August Vintage rounds, for example, might look very white in the face-up position due to the cut but will show their color from the side and in certain lighting environments. The advantage to lower color stones is of course price. They can be very cost effective. But whether or not you can live with one long-term is only something you can determine by viewing them yourself in person. Oh, and warmer stones can definitely be put in white metal. Again, it's all about what YOU like, not what others tell you.

 

[Jlw85chs]

This is very helpful, thanks! Is single cut the same as OEC for the side stones? I want to make sure the side stones have enough sparkle so I was thinking of going with modern side stones, but wasn’t sure if that will look odd with an antique center stone. For the center, I want an OEC or transitional, 0.85 to 1.3 Cts, thinking colorless but I really don’t know what the other colors look like in person. I originally asked for double prong but didn’t like the look. Here is a pic.

 

[Starfacet]

This is very helpful, thanks! Is single cut the same as OEC for the side stones? I want to make sure the side stones have enough sparkle so I was thinking of going with modern side stones, but wasn’t sure if that will look odd with an antique center stone. For the center, I want an OEC or transitional, 0.85 to 1.3 Cts, thinking colorless but I really don’t know what the other colors look like in person. I originally asked for double prong but didn’t like the look. Here is a pic.

No, single cut is not the same as OEC, but they do have their own particular sparkle. Victor Canera has a nice article about the difference between single cuts and full cuts. OECs have an even different facet pattern:
https://www.victorcanera.com/blog/single-cut-and-full-cut-melee-explained

 

[Jlw85chs]

Here's a vintage Tiffany & Co from Eragem that has a similar feel. The listing says the stone is not original to the ring, but you get the idea. And it has the single cut side diamonds that @foxinsox was talking about.
Transitional Cut Diamond Engagement Ring Tiffany & Co

This is very similar to one of the rings I based the setting off of!

 

[Starfacet]

Here's a comparison. For about the same price, you can have either a .95 ct. F VS2 August Vintage round or a 1.57 ct. M VS2. PSers would be all over the place on these two, some saying they would rather have a larger stone, and others saying they would rather have higher color. Some would say they'd want higher clarity, some would say lower clarity would be fine because they can't see the inclusions anyway. It's all up to you!!
https://www.distinctivegem.com/coll...ct-f-vs2-august-vintage-european-cut-74534809
https://www.distinctivegem.com/coll...ct-m-vs2-august-vintage-european-cut-74580023

The one thing I would recommend is, please view any stone you buy loose before having it set. You want to make sure it's the stone of your dreams before spending money on a setting.

 

[Starfacet]

Here are a couple of beauties from Old World Diamonds in your price range already dressed up and ready to go (well, the one is slightly over, but I still wanted to post it ). The second one is a simple solitaire, but both diamonds are K color so its shows the same color stone in two colors:
https://oldworlddiamonds.com/jewelry-detail.php?id=303&maxpage=3&sort=price&section=1&category=-1
https://oldworlddiamonds.com/jewelry-detail.php?id=290&maxpage=2&sort=price&section=1&category=-1

 

[Jlw85chs]

Here's a comparison. For about the same price, you can have either a .95 ct. F VS2 August Vintage round or a 1.57 ct. M VS2. PSers would be all over the place on these two, some saying they would rather have a larger stone, and others saying they would rather have higher color. Some would say they'd want higher clarity, some would say lower clarity would be fine because they can't see the inclusions anyway. It's all up to you!!
https://www.distinctivegem.com/coll...ct-f-vs2-august-vintage-european-cut-74534809
https://www.distinctivegem.com/coll...ct-m-vs2-august-vintage-european-cut-74580023

The one thing I would recommend is, please view any stone you buy loose before having it set. You want to make sure it's the stone of your dreams before spending money on a setting.

I agree! I’m in NH and haven’t found a place where I can go to see a large inventory of old stones in person... just a couple places with estate jewelry where the diamond is already set and a jeweler who had 3 stones shipped in which weren't impressive as he tried to convince me to go with RBC.

 

[molecule]

Thanks for the input! Any idea on what the width would be? I have small hands (size 5) and trying to keep the band narrow. It’s currently a 2mm that narrows to 1.5mm at the base of the band, but the side stones are all the same size. If I want it more graduated, would I have to go wider than 2mm at the top of the band? I was told even 1.5mm is getting too narrow per the jeweler...

From my recollection, the sapphire is ~4mm large, so I would estimate that the band tapers from 2mm to 1mm at the bottom. I do not recommend that. Maybe consider going from 2.5 to 1.8 and decreasing your side stone size.
I personally love the sharp taper of the first side stone to the fourth in my ring where yours is a much more gradual.

 

[Jlw85chs]

Here's a comparison. For about the same price, you can have either a .95 ct. F VS2 August Vintage round or a 1.57 ct. M VS2. PSers would be all over the place on these two, some saying they would rather have a larger stone, and others saying they would rather have higher color. Some would say they'd want higher clarity, some would say lower clarity would be fine because they can't see the inclusions anyway. It's all up to you!!
https://www.distinctivegem.com/coll...ct-f-vs2-august-vintage-european-cut-74534809
https://www.distinctivegem.com/coll...ct-m-vs2-august-vintage-european-cut-74580023

The one thing I would recommend is, please view any stone you buy loose before having it set. You want to make sure it's the stone of your dreams before spending money on a setting.

Between those 3 AVR i would pick the F without seeing them in person

 

[Starfacet]

I agree! I’m in NH and haven’t found a place where I can go to see a large inventory of old stones in person... just a couple places with estate jewelry where the diamond is already set and a jeweler who had 3 stones shipped in which weren't impressive as he tried to convince me to go with RBC.

Well, that's what I would expect him to do! If you love antique cuts, then you're going to have to branch out and not rely on what your jeweler can bring in. Thankfully, you have the internet at your fingertips. Happy hunting!

 

[Starfacet]

Between those 3 AVR i would pick the F without seeing them in person

Well, you can't go wrong with that one! I just sold my J color AVR and it was a stunner. You just have to ask yourself it it's ok if the stone is a "new" old cut or if you really want a true antique. Some people have a preference to true old stones, but ultimately, it might not matter to you.

 

[headlight]

Gonna have to disagree with you there. Did you see the Instagram post from Parks Fine Group I linked above? What about the setting that OP likes would preclude her from putting an antique stone in it?

I totally see what you are saying and I think the one you posted looks fabulous... but I think it looks totally different than the original posted ring. Ultimately it’s her ring so my opinion means nothing but she asked for input. I think your suggestion is gorgeous and perfect for an antique stone.