Help me decide! Antique ruby and diamond cluster ring

[cloud_less]

Hi yall!

So I've never owned a ruby despite having a small but growing conundrum collection. I was having my daily dose of browsing for antique rings and noticed this Victorian ruby and diamond cluster. Nothing big, just a snot-sized ruby (can't get this description out of my head) and 8 oec, but oh boy did I fall hard for the ruby magic! I immediately asked the vendor to put it on hold, but want to hear what you guys think about this, especially the ruby.

Here's some basic info:
Ring made in the 1880s
Ruby approx 5x8mm, unheated and Burmese according to vendor
OECs approx 2.5x3mm each, very white
Ring size is very big, need to resize 3 sizes down

Vendor's photo of the ring on hand in diffused natural light:

In full sunlight:


I'm in love with the overall design of the ring but also the ruby itself. The vendor is asking for ~$1800. For that price, can I do better by going for a loose stone to scratch that ruby itch?
Any insights are welcomed!

 

[dk168]

What is the gold content of the ring please? Looks like 18K however, I could be wrong.

I am not an expert, however, looking at the ring as it is, I like it in that the Ruby is glowy despite being silky, and OECs are lovely and sparkly.

I believe it is a good price.

DK

 

[cloud_less]

What is the gold content of the ring please? Looks like 18K however, I could be wrong.

I am not an expert, however, looking at the ring as it is, I like it in that the Ruby is glowy despite being silky, and OECs are lovely and sparkly.

I believe it is a good price.

DK

Thank you DK for chiming in!
It is 18K, and yes those are OECs, corrected my typo in the post.
I'm also deeply in love with how glowy the ruby is!!

 

[chrono]

I would buy it for the design and OECs, and presume the ruby has been treated up the wazoo or whatever.

 

[mellowyellowgirl]

I think it is lovely and the diamonds are a great size!!!

The only thing I am suspicious about is them telling you the ring was made in 1880s. Can anyone give insight into whether this was the style back then? I know nothing about vintage jewellery so I am no help here!

It's more a case of if that fact is untrue, what else could be untrue?

But it is a lovely ring!!!!

 

[CBianco]

Very pretty ring, but the price is very suspiciously low for an unheated burmese ruby as claimed by the vendor. I would buy it for the beauty of the ring and not expect too much value from the ruby itself.

 

[Avondale]

Don't know if you can go better because you know so little about this one and treatments with ruby are so prevalent. If I were you, I would first determine the level of treatment I'm comfortable with and the price point I'm willing to pay for no heat/heated/heated with minor residues and so on down the scale. Then I'd look into options to get the stone certified by the vendor prior to shipping. If all checks out on the certificate treatment-wise, go for it. It's very distinctly pink, looks to have a wonky cut and also seems quite silky, not so transparent, all of which can bump the price down significantly from the often mentioned lately 10k/ct.

 

[Mrsz1ppy]

I think the price is very good and the ruby glowy. You could buy it, enjoy it, and one day upgrade to a better ruby. I think that the setting is very versatile. If you posted a picture of the underside it might give more clues about the date.

 

[cloud_less]

I would buy it for the design and OECs, and presume the ruby has been treated up the wazoo or whatever.

Very pretty ring, but the price is very suspiciously low for an unheated burmese ruby as claimed by the vendor. I would buy it for the beauty of the ring and not expect too much value from the ruby itself.

Thank you for pointing that out! I do realize the price seems too good to be true for an untreated Burmese ruby even though it's probably less than 1ct, pinkish and not so transparent. You all are right that I should lower my expectation regarding the treatment and origin of the ruby.

 

[cloud_less]

Don't know if you can go better because you know so little about this one and treatments with ruby are so prevalent. If I were you, I would first determine the level of treatment I'm comfortable with and the price point I'm willing to pay for no heat/heated/heated with minor residues and so on down the scale. Then I'd look into options to get the stone certified by the vendor prior to shipping. If all checks out on the certificate treatment-wise, go for it. It's very distinctly pink, looks to have a wonky cut and also seems quite silky, not so transparent, all of which can bump the price down significantly from the often mentioned lately 10k/ct.

The vendor is not located in the US so the logistics might be complicated to get the stone certed before purchase. They estimate it to be ~0.7ct so it might not even be worth it.

I'm actually a purist when it comes to conundrums ... but it turns out I might be willing to lower my standards when it comes to antiques ( I love antique rings!) I certainly cannot afford the current market price of an unheated Burmese ruby!

 

[cloud_less]

I think it is lovely and the diamonds are a great size!!!

The only thing I am suspicious about is them telling you the ring was made in 1880s. Can anyone give insight into whether this was the style back then? I know nothing about vintage jewellery so I am no help here!

It's more a case of if that fact is untrue, what else could be untrue?

But it is a lovely ring!!!!

I do think this looks late Victorian / Edwardian (I'm no expert either) but am also curious how they were able to tell the ring was made in 1880s. I reached out to the vendor to ask about that. I think it's super cute as well!

I think the price is very good and the ruby glowy. You could buy it, enjoy it, and one day upgrade to a better ruby. I think that the setting is very versatile. If you posted a picture of the underside it might give more clues about the date.

That's a good idea!! I love the proportions of the setting. I think the current ruby is very pretty but can also imagine the setting with other center stones.

Picture showing underside of the setting:

 

[glitterata]

I'm with the "buy it for the setting, assume the ruby is suspicious but enjoy it anyway" crowd. It does look like a genuine old setting with lovely old diamonds. And hey, maybe you'll get lucky and the ruby will be a good one after all. It certainly is pretty in the pictures.

 

[Avondale]

The vendor is not located in the US so the logistics might be complicated to get the stone certed before purchase.

Being on PS where most of the user base is located in the US could easily get anyone convinced that the entire world has a grand total of three reputable labs, all in the US, but that’s not the case at all. Wherever the vendor is, there’s good chance there’s a reliable lab in the near vicinity that can get the ruby tested and certified. Unheated status is confirmed simply through a microscope and a knowledgeable eye, and if the ruby isn’t untreated, then it would not be as advertised, which is a problem in itself.

 

[Rfisher]

@cloud_less
Have you seen pictures of it that aren’t diffused (bright) natural sunlight or direct natural sunlight?

and did the vendor include the “unheated” information in discussions with you, because I don’t see that stated in the vendors listing.

I could absolutely see being ok with the price stated and assuming it’s treated, More transluscent over transparent and if I liked the color in multiple lighting environments - if I really enjoyed the setting style, if it didn’t need any (prong) rehab and the OEC look/quality met my expectations of what I wished to view / scratch that itch.

i don’t know how I’d feel about the vendor using Burmese and “unheated” as a selling point with not much to back it up - but it’s not like the posted selling price is reflecting top-mid quality unheated Burmese.

that’s a different trust /knowledgeability factor to consider to a vendor and willingness to buy from them. Now or in the future.

their pansy ring, and a gypsy set ring, I feel quite similar to about!

 

[CBianco]

5×8mm is not a really small face up size, so around 0.7ct doesn't seem right unless it's an extreme "pancake cut". I'm aware these are all just estimates but they seem quite off for me. This is just my opinion, and I could be wrong

 

[cloud_less]

@cloud_less
Have you seen pictures of it that aren’t diffused (bright) natural sunlight or direct natural sunlight?

and did the vendor include the “unheated” information in discussions with you, because I don’t see that stated in the vendors listing.

I could absolutely see being ok with the price stated and assuming it’s treated, More transluscent over transparent and if I liked the color in multiple lighting environments - if I really enjoyed the setting style, if it didn’t need any (prong) rehab and the OEC look/quality met my expectations of what I wished to view / scratch that itch.

i don’t know how I’d feel about the vendor using Burmese and “unheated” as a selling point with not much to back it up - but it’s not like the posted selling price is reflecting top-mid quality unheated Burmese.

that’s a different trust /knowledgeability factor to consider to a vendor and willingness to buy from them. Now or in the future.

their pansy ring, and a gypsy set ring, I feel quite similar to about!

I haven't, but just requested those pictures. The vendor did mention that the ruby was untreated. If the ruby was original to the ring (from the late 19th century, and the vendor seems to think it is), then the worst it might be is heat only. I feel like the price is very reasonable for a beautiful setting and OECs so I might get it just for what it is.


Update: I brought up the issue of potential treatment of the ruby to the vendor and they said they are going to visit a local gem lab tomorrow to make sure what they are claiming is accurate!

 

[cloud_less]

I think it is lovely and the diamonds are a great size!!!

The only thing I am suspicious about is them telling you the ring was made in 1880s. Can anyone give insight into whether this was the style back then? I know nothing about vintage jewellery so I am no help here!

It's more a case of if that fact is untrue, what else could be untrue?

But it is a lovely ring!!!!

It turns out that the ring has a hallmark inside the shank that was specific to the time period!

 

[cloud_less]

Being on PS where most of the user base is located in the US could easily get anyone convinced that the entire world has a grand total of three reputable labs, all in the US, but that’s not the case at all. Wherever the vendor is, there’s good chance there’s a reliable lab in the near vicinity that can get the ruby tested and certified. Unheated status is confirmed simply through a microscope and a knowledgeable eye, and if the ruby isn’t untreated, then it would not be as advertised, which is a problem in itself.

My apologies, I didn't mean to say that only US labs are reputable. I was unfamiliar with the country the vendor is located in and not sure how gem labs work in a different area of the world. Thank you for bringing this up! I was able to discuss this with the vendor and they said they are going to visit a gem lab tomorrow to find out. I might not get a certificate, but a verbal confirmation is better than going in blind.

 

[cloud_less]

5×8mm is not a really small face up size, so around 0.7ct doesn't seem right unless it's an extreme "pancake cut". I'm aware these are all just estimates but they seem quite off for me. This is just my opinion, and I could be wrong

It seemed that the vendor did not use a caliper, it might be smaller than 5x8mm as the ring face is 10x12mm and the OECs are 2.5-3mm. So more like 4x7?

 

[Avondale]

Update: I brought up the issue of potential treatment of the ruby to the vendor and they said they are going to visit a local gem lab tomorrow to make sure what they are claiming is accurate!

Awesome development! Now we keep fingers crossed it all checks out. If it’s a gem lab with a qualified gemologist, they should be able to issue some sort of a report, even if it’s not called a certificate specifically, so that you can have peace of mind. In any case it’s a good sign the seller is obliging, honest tradesmen get their business from happy customers, not scams.

 

[voce]

I am admittedly a skeptic. It is possible for the gems to be man-made, both diamonds and ruby. I'd want to see if the vendor has had many previous transactions with unique rings, as a second one like this or no publicly viewable (with pictures) transaction history would just seem fishy to me. It's not every vendor that can get their hands on an antique like this.

Good reviews from happy customers do not promise that the goods are as described; I have bought and returned many a jade bangle that were described as untreated that fluorescesed under UV light, all from vendors with hundreds of five star reviews on Etsy!

 

[cloud_less]

Have you seen pictures of it that aren’t diffused (bright) natural sunlight or direct natural sunlight?

Aritificial light photos came in!

 

[Avondale]

I would like to retract my previous wonky cut statement.

 

[cloud_less]

Update: the vendor took the ruby to a gem lab and was told the ruby is natural, Burma, but was heated.
I think for an antique ring I can accept that the center stone is heated, but is it still worth it?

 

[CaseyLouLou]

Update: the vendor took the ruby to a gem lab and was told the ruby is natural, Burma, but was heated.
I think for an antique ring I can accept that the center stone is heated, but is it still worth it?

I love the ring and the ruby is glowy. I’m not a ruby expert At All but I see the appeal of the glow and this one has it. I wouldn’t have a problem with heated but rubies are also known to be heated with ‘residues’ sometimes so I suppose it could still have that if they didn’t say heated without residues.

The OEC’s are gorgeous. Can you get confirmation on the dimensions of the ruby?

 

[Avondale]

Update: the vendor took the ruby to a gem lab and was told the ruby is natural, Burma, but was heated.
I think for an antique ring I can accept that the center stone is heated, but is it still worth it?

Depends on how much you love it. Maybe the price is fair (not really familiar with antique pieces) but say you could spend the same amount on a stone and setting of your choosing… would you choose the same?

 

[lulu_ma]

The OEC melee looks to be between .76 to .80 ctw by my rough calculation. I have seen OEC melee trading between $1800 to $2000 retail. The price for the ring seem fair.

Here's similar looking ring with a larger ruby but less melee:

18k Yellow Gold Natural Burmese Ruby heat Only and Diamond Ring Size 7 Sizable - Etsy

This Jewelry item by GildedLane has 213 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Beverly Hills, CA. Listed on Apr 4, 2024

www.etsy.com

ETA: I'm not a colored stone expert, but I'm good at comparison shopping

 

[cloud_less]

The OEC melee looks to be between .76 to .80 ctw by my rough calculation. I have seen OEC melee trading between $1800 to $2000 retail. The price for the ring seem fair.

Here's similar looking ring with a larger ruby but less melee:

18k Yellow Gold Natural Burmese Ruby heat Only and Diamond Ring Size 7 Sizable - Etsy

This Jewelry item by GildedLane has 213 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Beverly Hills, CA. Listed on Apr 4, 2024

www.etsy.com

ETA: I'm not a colored stone expert, but I'm good at comparison shopping

Thanks for the comparison!

I also think the melee looks to be .10 each, but The vendor insists that the ring has 1.2 ctw diamonds so their price is "better than fair". Not sure if I should take that as a red flag.

 

[lulu_ma]

Thanks for the comparison!

I also think the melee looks to be .10 each, but The vendor insists that the ring has 1.2 ctw diamonds so their price is "better than fair". Not sure if I should take that as a red flag.

I went with a conservative mrb face up of 2.5 to 3 mm. The OEC should be deeper but it’s all a guesstimate unless they are weighed anyways. FWIW, I like the proportions of the ring you are considering more than the comp I posted.

 

[cloud_less]

It seems that the ring sold even though the vendor agreed to hold it for me until the end of the week. No ruby for me right now then I guess.

Thank you for your help guys!