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help finding cushion e-ring setting

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mnemonic

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 15, 2007
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First of all I''d like to say "what a fabulous community!" you have here. I''ve been reading the forums all night and found the variety, sincerity, and general good nature of posters immensely helpful. Since deciding to pop the question earlier this summer, "the search" has left my head spinning and I feel like I haven''t even started! I''m hoping this great community of folks can help me to start focusing so I can actually buy the ring and stop reading about them!

After my research I set my heart on getting a round ideal in a solitaire setting (old fashion + geometric/optical perfection fits me I guess). I talked to my parents about my decision and before even mentioning a ring, my mom says "just don''t get a round diamond, they''re so ordinary." (she has a round diamond, but I guess in her 37 years of marriage she''s bored of them
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) I pretty much brushed that off... but it did make me realize that women might be less about the mathematical precision of the stone and more about an intangible aspect of it. So I enlisted a friend to find out what my gf likes. I couldn''t believe it when the report came back: "round stones are just so... ordinary." She like cushion shapes. Women...

My thinking at this point is a cushion center stone, 1ct+, maybe in a 3 stone setting with rounds on either side. Or perhaps something "antique-y" because I think she would like detail work on the band.... but a lot of settings described as antique are gaudy and really detract from the center stone I think. When I think of an antique I imagine details in the metal casting from a bygone era of artisans, like you''d find in woodwork. I guess the jewelry industry doesn''t quite suffer from that phenomenon.

From these boards and elsewhere I''ve come across these settings that I like the appearance and style of (though many seem to be for "round" stones and I have no idea if cushion stones can just be substituted in:

Adore
Mystic
custom
ERD 3 stone

In terms of price, I think I''d like the finished ring to be under $8k. Above that and I start to feel like I should be proposing with a car. Her most expensive piece of jewelry is probably ~$100-$150 and her thriftiness is why I''m building the ring myself and surprising her. I think the sticker shock would keep her from enjoying the experience. If she doesn''t like it, wants to improve it, or upgrade it later, that''s fine with me. From looking at bluenile, exceldiamonds, and here on pricescope I think I''m looking at a $6k stone (so a $2k setting). I''d like to go with platinum, however, and some of these designer settings look like they''re going to be quite expensive. Should I start preparing myself for expanding the budget?

I found an earlier post dubbing Mark Turnowski of ERD as the "cushion king". I like the diamond in that post, and his prices for loose stones look on par... but no settings that I could find (and didn''t really care for the round settings either). Anything I''m missing?

Any suggestions people might have for a setting would be much appreciated. Tomorrow will be my first trip to a brick and mortar jewelry store to spend some hours looking over their offerings in person. If there are any smaller non-chain jewelers in the DC area that I should check out, let me know. I''ve picked out an IA and I''d like to have the stone I end up with sent to him. I''m not sure yet how that all works if I buy a setting from a different jeweler than where I buy the stone, but I''ll worry about that later.

Thanks!
 
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The above setting is a stunning tacori. I would ask for it in 18K and I would request that the ring be done as a 3/4 eternity. And it would look stunning set with a square modern cushion.

And a good (but a litle pricey) solution to the 'she wants a cushion" v. "I was the symmetry and fire of a round" is a square hearts and arrows diamond which is a modified cushion with the Hearts and Arrows pattern the high quality rounds have. And maybe if you buy the stone and the setting from Good old gold 00 the square hearts and arrows vendor on here... (they carry tacori and richard landi... another high end antique setting designer) you might be able to negotiate a really good deal.
 
That is stunning! And thanks for picking up exactly the style I''m interested in. Why 18K over platinum?

It looks like the major chains around here carry Tacori. I''ll make sure to stop by tomorrow and see them in person. Will major chains have the option of "asking for" the alterations you mentioned? Or would I need to go directly through Tacori?
 
Your budget. Platinum on that setting, is I believe around $3500. 18K will cost less. That's the only reason. You need a nice budget for your diamond.. and a cheaper setting will allow more money on the diamond.
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Re: customization. I know for a FACT that tacori will make changes to their setting to accomodate reasonable requests. HOWEVER, most B&M's ahve lied to me when I've mentioned this and asked for changes. Good old gold is great about that however.
 
here's a thread with stones and settings done by Mark. If you're wanting a cushion, i'd go to him, no question and it's just easier to get the stone and setting in the same place in my opinion if possible.

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/stones-and-settings-from-mark-turnowski-erd.59105/

You might also consider a Ritani setting. neatfreak has a cushion in it and it's stunning..Here's here thread

http://www.pricescope.com/forum/show-me-the-ring/my-new-ritani-wedding-band-w-matching-cushion-cut-ering-t63506.html

calliecushshadow.jpg


sidecushioncall.jpg
 
Hey mnemonic,

My boyfriend and I picked out my cushion stone through Mark at ERD (wonderful experience) and his COO, Gary, was able to order the Scott Kay setting we chose directly from the designer. Scott Kay set the stone while ERD took responsibility for it, so there were no worries about liability while we waited. I can''t speak for neatfreak, but she may have ended up doing the same thing for her beautiful ring. If you find a setting you really love, check in with ERD and ask them about helping you get it. So much easier than going through a B&M!
 
Thanks so much for your replies mrssalvo and darkeyesredshoes. I really like the Ritani set. Since I''m just starting the setting search (spent all my research on the rock) I hadn''t heard of Ritani. I also really like their Romantique setting (styles 1RZ3086ARP-452 and 1RZ3290ARP-458 in particular) and the leaf and vines motif. Some pics of it are pushing up on the "detracting from the center", but otherwise the ''renaissance'' feel is quite nice.

I''m heading out in an hour to start seeing some of these in person. Thanks again for the tips gals!
 
Date: 6/16/2007 11:03:09 AM
Author: mnemonic
Thanks so much for your replies mrssalvo and darkeyesredshoes. I really like the Ritani set. Since I'm just starting the setting search (spent all my research on the rock) I hadn't heard of Ritani. I also really like their Romantique setting (styles 1RZ3086ARP-452 and 1RZ3290ARP-458 in particular) and the leaf and vines motif. Some pics of it are pushing up on the 'detracting from the center', but otherwise the 'renaissance' feel is quite nice.


I'm heading out in an hour to start seeing some of these in person. Thanks again for the tips gals!
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The Ritanis are all beautifully made. And if you are getting your stone from Mark, you should ask him about it too. We were going to go custom, and Mark actually suggested the Ritani as a "cheaper" alternative to the custom ring we wanted. But I ended up falling in love with it more than the custom we were thinking of. He can help.
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Date: 6/16/2007 3:16:40 AM
Author: Gypsy
The above setting is a stunning tacori. I would ask for it in 18K and I would request that the ring be done as a 3/4 eternity. And it would look stunning set with a square modern cushion.

And a good (but a litle pricey) solution to the ''she wants a cushion'' v. ''I was the symmetry and fire of a round'' is a square hearts and arrows diamond which is a modified cushion with the Hearts and Arrows pattern the high quality rounds have. And maybe if you buy the stone and the setting from Good old gold 00 the square hearts and arrows vendor on here... (they carry tacori and richard landi... another high end antique setting designer) you might be able to negotiate a really good deal.
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I agree, and like this idea very much.
 
Spent about 5 hours today looking at settings in person. I visited two jewelry shops, and saw 4-5 settings in total that I quite liked. There was a beautiful 3 stone Ritani, two from Kirk Kara (anyone heard of them?) that had nice accents on the sides, and one from Scott Kay. Both stores had some of the Tacori settings, but not the one Gypsy linked above. I'd really like to see that ring in person.

I'm somewhat disheartened at the prices on settings however. I had somehow gotten into my head that "$8k" was plenty of room to get a high quality 1ct cushion stone in a platinum high quality setting. Last night when I saw $3500 for the Tacori setting I thought it was crazy. But today I was staring down the barrel of $4700 settings. The whole world's gone mad I tell you! but she's my sweetheart, so I guess I'm revising my budget.
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I have some hope I'll still be out the door at $8k, but for the right setting and stone, I'll start trying to wrap my head around $10k. I couldn't tell you why I'm so attached to the idea of it being in platinum... I couldn't visually tell the difference in the store, so its probably the prospect of them "wearing" differently.

Jared's talked about rhodium plating (or was it palladium) and that they would apply it over the lifetime of the ring to restore its mirror finish. Any thoughts on that? I thought the patina of platinum is what made it desirable.

I'm glad I got out to see some these styles in person. I know my gal would love any of the settings suggested here, or the ones I found at the stores. I'm going to keep searching for a week or two more before deciding anything. Always welcome more suggestions...

Thank you all again...
 
I don''t know why the heck you would ever rhodium platinum or palladium...but maybe an expert can chime in here?

Many of the Ritanis, Tacoris, etc. are in the 1.5-2k range, but NOT if you''re looking for 3 stone. Remember if you''re buying a three stone ring, you''re paying a LOT for the other two big sidestones. Do you know she wants a 3 stone? If not, you might want to stay away, as many women view it as more of an anniversary ring than an engagement ring.

$4700 seems like a LOT for a setting unless it has a ton of diamonds in it. I would look around and check prices at Pearlman''s. They are an online retailer with great prices. Mark at ERD can often get settings at a discount as well, so it''s always worth checking with him on prices.

Kirk Kara and Scott Kay both make great quality stuff, so I wouldn''t worry about not knowing those names.
 
Regarding the square H+A from Good Old Gold, I really love the idea. A quick search on his site for Square H+A, 1.0-1.2c, F-G, VS1-VS2 only resulted in 2 stones. Both had depth percentages over 70%, and I thought I wanted to stay in the 60-63% range for the most "spread"? Is something about the optics of the H+A cut making them deep? Or do I just need to wait for more stones to fit this criteria and hope for better geometry?

I must say the few 1.0-1.5c cushions I saw today really popped in the store''s halogen lights. I couldn''t find a shady spot to see them stones in normal lighting, but they easily had comparable fire to the princess cut stones, just with larger slower flashes than the princess'' microbursts of color. I really liked them! and felt much better about moving away from the rounds. I''d want to see them in different lighting to make sure its not a store trick though.

Typing on this forum is really therapeutic for a stressed out guy ring shopping, you know that?
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I''m glad everyone enjoys giving as much advice as they apparently do... a few more posts and this process might be 60% fun and 40% stress instead of the other way around. Thanks again...
 
Date: 6/16/2007 6:22:28 PM
Author: mnemonic

Regarding the square H+A from Good Old Gold, I really love the idea. A quick search on his site for Square H+A, 1.0-1.2c, F-G, VS1-VS2 only resulted in 2 stones. Both had depth percentages over 70%, and I thought I wanted to stay in the 60-63% range for the most ''spread''? Is something about the optics of the H+A cut making them deep? Or do I just need to wait for more stones to fit this criteria and hope for better geometry?
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Yes, they''re all around the 70ish+ range. It''s just the way they''re cut, so that''s nothing to worry about. If you don''t see what you want, just give them a call and they''ll find it for you, if you decide on that type stone. They''re a great company to work with.


And don''t stress!
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I just looked at the first setting and I thought I should mention something to you.... most cushions are set in 4 prong settings. Sometimes in double claw (which really is still 4 prongs), and in my case I''m doing 8 prongs.....

6 prongs can make the stone look more oval if it is elongated. I don''t really know how the 8 prongs will look since mine isn''t done yet LOL Four looks awesome. Just something to consider!
 
Just thought I''d chime in to tell you to pick the stone first and then the setting. It''s good that you''re thinking about settings and finding out how much they cost CRAZY! But the shape of the stone and size of the stone you pick may dictate what setting will look best.

I wouldn''t consider 3 stone rings unless your GF told you or her friend that that''s what she wants. As another poster said you''re paying for those extra 2 diamonds.

You may want to take a look at the Danhov settings at www.jamesallen.com I think they look good with cushions. And in White Gold they are very reasonable.

HTH
 
Thanks for the additional advice folks. I''m scratching the 3-stones off the list, and I''m getting a much better feel of the style I think she''s going to like best. Gypsy''s tacori, Ritani''s Romantique, and the two Kirk Kara''s and one Scott Kay I saw in person are all at the top of the list. The Danhov settings at jamesallen.com are very nice, I just need to spend some more time looking at them. You all have been a tremendous help so far! Thank you!

Regarding picking the stone first, that''s a very interesting prospect. I had thought I''d pick a setting to help narrow my stone search (there''s even more variety in stones than settings!!). I can see your reasoning, I just thought knowing a length:width ratio would help in the stone search, rather than trying to find a setting for whatever shape I end up with. If I can''t find a square H+A that I like, I think I''m going to try for the "traditional" 1.10:1 cushion. I''ll try for 4 prongs (thanks Sara!) because most of the presets I''ve found with cushions use that.

I''ve sent an email to Good Old Gold about their square H+A, and I''ll drop Mark at ERD a line about what I''m looking for. I''d like to get the stone appraised and IDed at a local appraiser before having it set. I''m sure all the people I''ll be working with are trustworthy and honest, but the piece of mind of having an expert look at the stone, confirm its cert, and later look at it set to ensure it''s the same stone and no damage was done to it in the setting process is worth a lot to me.

I''ll probably start another thread for my cushion-hunt just to keep this one about settings. If anyone finds ''vintage'' solitaires that would look good with cushions, tack ''em on here! Thanks...
 
Just got a response from Tim at Good Old Gold about the Square Hearts and Arrows. I''m assuming since they don''t post their price list on their website they wouldn''t want me to reproduce it in its entirety... but I can say that taking the color/carat/clarity stats from the $6k cushions I had been looking at and finding a comparable Square H+A, they''re right around $10k. Plus they''re very deep (70%+, which Tim confirmed is necessary for the fire and brilliance) which results in a smaller face-up than the modern cushions I had been looking at for a given carat weight.

I can''t rule them out entirely, but getting the face-up size I want in a stone with good stats is going to be an $18,000 prospect. To get a square H+A, I''ll have to either expand my budget, or shrink my expectations of size, or both. I might have to see one in person somehow before I could accept the cost difference. The search continues!
 
Hrm, a little heartbroken over the response I just got back from GoG. That Tacori ("2510") from Gypsy''s post (#2) in 3/4 eternity and for a square 1.00-1.25 stone, in platinum is $10,460 and 18K white gold for $8740. With a 1.00c square H+A at $9500-$10500, its an $18000-$21000 ring.
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... and that''s for a smaller face-up size than I had set out searching for.

Gypsy''s first guess of $3500 for platinum sounds like a STEAL compared to this. Any idea if this 3x factor in price is because I''m asking for a "modification" of the basic design? Or do I just need to start from scratch here on the setting? I had collected a field of about 8 options and narrowed it right back down to that Tacori or one of the Mark Schneider designs below (which I also haven''t price checked, but now I''m expecting "obscene" as a reply. I was working my comfort level up to $10k to try and give myself some breathing room, but $20k is completely off the chart for me.
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MS_view_mini.JPG
 
Those prices do seem kind of crazy! Here''s my two cents:

I think you should really put the majority of your money into the stone. Especially since this seems to be a surprise. She might not even like the settings you picked so far! (I think they''re beautiful, but they''re definitely not what I would have chosen for myself.)

Have you checked out knoxjewelers.biz? They have a lot of pretty, affordable settings. Remember-you can always get a fancier setting later on as an anniversary gift!
 
Date: 6/21/2007 5:29:03 PM
Author: mnemonic
Hrm, a little heartbroken over the response I just got back from GoG. That Tacori (''2510'') from Gypsy''s post (#2) in 3/4 eternity and for a square 1.00-1.25 stone, in platinum is $10,460 and 18K white gold for $8740. With a 1.00c square H+A at $9500-$10500, its an $18000-$21000 ring.
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... and that''s for a smaller face-up size than I had set out searching for.

Gypsy''s first guess of $3500 for platinum sounds like a STEAL compared to this. Any idea if this 3x factor in price is because I''m asking for a ''modification'' of the basic design? Or do I just need to start from scratch here on the setting? I had collected a field of about 8 options and narrowed it right back down to that Tacori or one of the Mark Schneider designs below (which I also haven''t price checked, but now I''m expecting ''obscene'' as a reply. I was working my comfort level up to $10k to try and give myself some breathing room, but $20k is completely off the chart for me.
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HOLY COW!! I got that estimate from another poster who said she priced it out. SORRY!!!! That setting is NINE Thousand! Yikes.

Sorry, sorry, sorry. I''m so VERY sorry.
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I''m thinking custom... or, maybe I''ve seen something similar (ringing a bell) by ritani. Let me see. So very sorry.
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http://www.pearlmansjewelers.com/jewelry-designers/ritani-jewelry/rings/30QQ1/42/

That Ritnai has the graduated stones look. But not the milgrain and the engraving. But it is really pretty... and MAYBE they could add some millgrain for you
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. Call Pearlmans for a qoute and see if it can be hand engraved as well. AND show him the Tacori setting and see if he knows of somethign similar.


ALSO I'm going to seriously suggest Maytal Hannah. She does custom work, would be able to come up with something amazingly close to this.( serch ofr Maytal) And it's worth a querry. I might also ask Mark Turnowski at ERD for a qoute. It's stunning, and I haven't seen anything that similar to it.

ANd again. I'm sorry I contributed to the heartbreak. I totally did not mean to. SO SO sorry!
 
I really think that high a price on the Tacori is because of the 3/4 eternity request ... that ring only goes 1/2 way around in the "stock" version ... I bet that one factor DOUBLED the price. Honestly.

Why not have GOG price it out AS IS (for a 1-1.25 ct. stone) & see. It''s a gorgeous design that reminds me of my own setting actually ... and my whole handmade platinum ring PLUS the center stone was less that that setting quote!
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Okay well... here''s my confusion. GOG has VERY competitive qoutes for settings. I think maybe they where qouting you for the SET not just hte setting. Because here''s what I''ve found elsewhere (know nothing about this jeweler). I''ve had GOG qoute setting for me, and they are always on par with the lowest prices I''ve found elsewhere (I price shop).

Here''s why I think the qoute was for the SET of TWO rings:

$5400 for the setting in platinum.

http://www.arthursjewelers.com/jewelscart2000/store/jewelscart2000_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7165

Should be less than that for the setting in 18K.

So let''s say 4700 (just a guess). I would ask if they can end the diamonds 1/2 way the around the SHANK OF THE SETTING in that channel to save money. It goes all the way around in the stock setting.

As for Square H&Arrows, not gonna work with your budget. Just get a modern cushion. That''s what she wants anyway. Call up Mark T at ERD and ask him for a nice cushion for 5.5 -6K that shines. Ask Traveling Girl about her''s its got some great BLING going on.


Don''t be heartbroken. I''ll help you as much as I can... as will the rest of the bunch. We''ll get you what you want.
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Oh Gypsy! No apology necessary AT ALL! You did an amazing job of reading my mind and showing me a GORGEOUS setting that fit perfectly with what I had in mind. Dozens of rings later I kept coming back to it. The heartbreak is the industry''s doing!
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I really appreciate the alternatives you and thing2of2 and decodelighted came up with. I''m heading out for dinner, but when I get back I''ll spend some time on the subject again and follow up with emails to the names mentioned! I''m a trooper! Never give up! Never surrender!

Thank you all again for support and ideas!
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If you go with Mark T for the cushion. I''d ask him about the setting too. he''s had some success in getting in settings so you just never know and it surely doesn''t hurt to ask. I''d double check with GOG on the price b/c I agree their setting prices are usually competive and that seems way high compared to the other Jeweler''s price.
 
The Tacori is a stunner, and I can speak from experience...I think I''ve tried it on 5 or 6 times. It takes my breath away every time. I officially gave my BF the go-ahead a week or so ago, and the wait is killing me. I did take some pics, but they didn''t turn out as I hoped, otherwise I would post them for my fellow worshipers. I will try again if I''m back in the neighboorhood..let me know if you''re really interested and I will see if I can swing by. Whats one more time at the jewelers..they already think I''m crazy
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I have called around for quotes on this ring in 18kt with the graduated stones 1/2 way. $3050 for the setting (made for 1.5ct round). Also, don''t know if ring size plays into the price, but I did include the info when requesting a quote..I''m wear a 4.5. Todd at GOG also quoted me the same price.

I have also admired the Mark Schneider pieces, but nobody carries them locally. I do love a cushion and think it would look stunning in the Tacori ring.
 
Date: 6/21/2007 8:00:32 PM
Author: Gypsy
Okay well... here''s my confusion. GOG has VERY competitive qoutes for settings. I think maybe they where qouting you for the SET not just hte setting. Because here''s what I''ve found elsewhere (know nothing about this jeweler). I''ve had GOG qoute setting for me, and they are always on par with the lowest prices I''ve found elsewhere (I price shop).

Here''s why I think the qoute was for the SET of TWO rings:

$5400 for the setting in platinum.

http://www.arthursjewelers.com/jewelscart2000/store/jewelscart2000_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7165

Should be less than that for the setting in 18K.

So let''s say 4700 (just a guess). I would ask if they can end the diamonds 1/2 way the around the SHANK OF THE SETTING in that channel to save money. It goes all the way around in the stock setting.

As for Square H&Arrows, not gonna work with your budget. Just get a modern cushion. That''s what she wants anyway. Call up Mark T at ERD and ask him for a nice cushion for 5.5 -6K that shines. Ask Traveling Girl about her''s its got some great BLING going on.

Don''t be heartbroken. I''ll help you as much as I can... as will the rest of the bunch. We''ll get you what you want.
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Click to expand...

Very interesting about the $5400 price you found. It does look like exactly the same ring in a full eternity. There''s some confusion about what "stock" is for this ring. The image you included, and the link above, go to a full eternity. But Tacori''s website (which uses the full eternity to introduce their e-ring selection) shows the specific model (HT251012X) in 1/2 eternity: http://www.tacori.com/mm5/multi_view.php?styleNo=HT251012X

I''ve written GOG for clarification on what was included in their price (two rings, setting a center stone, a 4c D/IF, etc.), as well as asking for a break down of what my "modifications" did to the price.

Date: 6/21/2007 5:43:09 PM
Author: thing2of2
I think you should really put the majority of your money into the stone. Especially since this seems to be a surprise. She might not even like the settings you picked so far! (I think they''re beautiful, but they''re definitely not what I would have chosen for myself.)
Click to expand...

I agree the stone should be the lion''s share of the investment. I''m soul-searching about my budget because it''s much more an issue of what I think I *should* spend, and what I think my gf would be *comfortable* owning and wearing than it is about dollars and cents. I count my blessings in that regard, but I think it might be easier if I had $1000 in my pocket and that''s all I could spend. Here its a very fluid thing, and I don''t want to be cheap but I don''t want to go overboard either.

...

There, see that? I just read about 20 threads on how much to spend... I feel much better now. Thank you PriceScope!
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Regarding the stone, I think the square H&A is out for right now. Some smaller ones might make great earrings for the 1yr anniversary or another occasion though.
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I''ve been saving "Mark @ ERD" until I was more educated. At this point I own an ideal-scope, ASET, loupe and light source. I''ve scoured price lists here and elsewhere and have a spreadsheet of options. If I can ever get the free time I''m going to make some more trips to local B&Ms and examine as many modern cushions as I can, take notes on what I like and don''t like (particularly l/w ratio, but also ASET views for balance of light return and contrast). Then, just when I think I know what I''m talking about, I''ll have Mark pick a perfect rock for me. The way I figure it, I''ll feel like I have the ability to truly appreciate what I''m looking at.

Finally, Maytal Hannah has some serious skill!!! Amazing work. While I''m waiting to hear from GOG for clarification, I''m going to send her an e-mail. I''m not partial to the halo setting personally, but with her skill set I''d be interested to see her take on the solitaire++ like the Tacori. I did notice that she said she crafts the ring to the particular stone. So after initial contact, pricing and maybe some really rough sketches, she''d probably have to wait until after I had the stone. Another concern may be time. I''m not on a deadline, but I''m going to have an ulcer if this process goes into September
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Gooooosfaba....
 
Wait, did I read that correctly that you''re setting a 4ct D IF in this setting????

Or was that just because you thought the initial price quote was crazy and was hoping it included a 4ct for that price?
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