Help! Fashioning engagement ring from heirlooms

[Scratchy2]

[Cross-post from "Antique and Vintage Jewelry"]

Hi all,

First time posting! I've started down the road for finding the perfect engagement ring for my girlfriend, and got an excellent surprise when I mentioned this to my father. Apparently he'd been waiting for the right moment to surprise me with some amazing family heirloom rings--rings he'd either previously kept secret or forgotten about (or maybe a bit of both). The diamonds are a total coup for me, because this kind of stuff would have completely fallen outside the realm of possibility a few weeks ago. My price range is pretty limited, so I'm thrilled.

Here are some pictures of the four heirloom rings. The one that I am primarily thinking about refashioning is "Ring A."

The first two rings ("Ring A" on the left, "B" on the right):


Different angle of rings "A" and "B":


Closeup of ring "A":

*Copying facts from the appraisal doc:

1. Center diamond is 1.75cts. Old mine cut. Clarity SI1. Color grade H-I. Good symmetry, good polish. Three minor chips on girdle, crown, and pavilion.
2. First of two flanking diamonds is 43/100cts. Old mine cut. Clarity VS2-SI2. Color grade H-I. Fair to moderate symmetry and moderate to good polish.
3. Second of two flanking diamonds is 39/100cts. Old mine cut. Clarity VS2-SI2. Color grade H-I. Fair to moderate symmetry and moderate to good polish.

All four rings:


So, while I remain thrilled to suddenly have these, I don't really know where to start. The rings as they are now are totally different from my girlfriend's taste, and would look pretty bulky/chunky on her smaller hands if I left one as-is. I'm thinking that I'd like to reset the three stones from "Ring A" in some way, but don't know much about the options. For one, I'm still learning a lot of the basics about rings in general; I've done internet research, but there are still glaring gaps in my basic jewelry education. I also have no idea how to properly treat OMC diamonds, or what kinds of settings are most flattering for that cut.

And so I turn to you! Thank you in advance for your help and advice

 

[metall]

Congrats on your pending engagement! and congrats on the beautiful rings! I love that you're reusing old stones from your father, it's very sweet.

I think that the first thing to do is show us some of the rings your gf wears or tell us a little more about her style. It would go a long way in us helping you choose a better setting for her tastes.

I'm no expert in vintage jewelry. So outside of suggesting that you might want to go to a reputable jeweler, versed in handling old stones, I'm not much help with the technical aspects. But I'm sure someone will be along momentarily to help advise you about the care aspects of an older ring, especially when one of the diamond's already has a chip in the girdle.

 

[tyty333]

How exciting! Way to go Dad!!!

Since they are vintage cut stones you might take a look at some vintage designers. I guess we should ask what your budget for a setting is? That
will determine what you can/cant do. What style does your GF like? Here are a couple to get you started. There are lots of non-three stone
settings (solitaires).

CVB
https://www.etsy.com/listing/584833...-inspired-three-stone?ref=shop_home_active_12 lovely 3 stone

David Klass
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/557531628850902914/
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/450571137695861476/ bezeled 3 stone

Edit...Also, does your GF have any pinterest links of rings that she likes?

 

[foxinsox]

@metall has some great suggestions - also see if she has a Pinterest or check with her mum/sister or friends to see if she’s ever commented on what she’d love for an engagement ring. Those are lovely rings to work with. You should be able to get something really stunning for her

 

[sledge]

CVB
https://www.etsy.com/listing/584833...-inspired-three-stone?ref=shop_home_active_12 lovely 3 stone

I don't normally like 3 stone rings, but this one looks pretty awesome.

 

[ringo865]

You might consider having a talk with your girlfriend about whether she's more inclined to old cut diamonds or modern cut sTones. She may be expecting some kind of modern engagement ring.

Imagine be presenting her with a newly created vintage inspired ring made from that heirloom piece (that has been disassembled for harvest) and she doesn't like it. Then you have to get her a new ring and your heirloom is no longer in one piece. And then there's your dad...

Not saying this will be the case, but it's certainly worth a discussion. Before harvesting stones.

 

[sledge]

You might consider having a talk with your girlfriend about whether she's more inclined to old cut diamonds or modern cut sTones. She may be expecting some kind of modern engagement ring.

Imagine be presenting her with a newly created vintage inspired ring made from that heirloom piece (that has been disassembled for harvest) and she doesn't like it. Then you have to get her a new ring and your heirloom is no longer in one piece. And then there's your dad...

Not saying this will be the case, but it's certainly worth a discussion. Before harvesting stones.

Great point. And I just assumed that with a "project" like this, you would have already asked her and would make her a part of the design process. Might be a really cool way to get her excited and ensure she gets what she wants while honoring your family and maximizing your budget. You guys get to build a unique and meaningful story from the get go, which is kind of cool.

 

[Scratchy2]

Thanks so much for the comments and suggestions! I really like some of these vintage-inspired designs! I'm writing a quick response while the lovely lady is in the other room; I'll post some pics from her Pinterest shorty.

I've been toying with the idea of letting her in on the process. I still like the idea of surprising her, though, given she's got no clue I have these heirlooms and is expecting me to be working on a budget that would never allow for something this impressive. I think that the surprise would be pretty cool.

I've talked with my father, and he's actually the one who suggested "harvesting" the diamonds from those rings in the first place. So I don't have to worry about hurting his feelings. He realizes how bulky the rings are right now and how the current design might not be ideal--they'd come from his father, and we're actually not positive how far back in the family they go. He did the same thing when he got married, apparently.

As for my budget for a setting: I'm thinking about budgeting ~$3,000? That's not a hard and fast number, though. I'm still trying to learn more about what to expect, what is reasonable, and finding the right balance between economy and quality.

 

[Scratchy2]

Here are some of the things she's been looking at. It's been a bit hard for me to pin down exactly what she does and doesn't like (which is why I'm having conversations with her without spilling the beans).

https://www.jalbrechtdesigns.com/products/simple-bezel-ring

https://www.jalbrechtdesigns.com/products/peach-sapphire-three-stone

https://www.jamesallen.com/engageme...ment-ring-with-scroll-undergallery-item-19348

http://www.tinyjewelbox.com/product/gold-beaded-leaf-scroll-band/

https://www.tulleandchantilly.com/b...al-shaped-diamond-wedding-engagement-ring.jpg

https://www.jalbrechtdesigns.com/products/yes-please

https://www.tulleandchantilly.com/b...ge-3-stone-round-diamond-engagement-rings.jpg

https://www.brilliantearth.com/Cadenza-Halo-Diamond-Ring-Rose-Gold-BE1D4816-2126898/

Again, it's been difficult for me to get a feel on a common theme (other than "non-traditional").

 

[hmr_mama]

After seeing her style I would second tyty's recommendations for either Caysie Van Bebber or David Klass. I would call her style organic with a classic edge. CVB has some beautiful 3 stones and her brushed yellow gold is gorgeous. I would reach out to CVB.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/541389...erald-antique-diamond?ref=shop_home_active_34

https://www.etsy.com/listing/498104157/cvb-ann-style-brush-metal-halo-ring?ref=shop_home_active_42

https://www.etsy.com/listing/202725...t-side-diamond-custom?ref=shop_home_active_81

 

[Lookinagain]

It seems she does like three stones and you have the diamonds to do that so I would go that way. I’d have someone remove the stones from the settings and get them cleaned up, appraised loose and see if they need any rehab.

 

[foxinsox]

I've been toying with the idea of letting her in on the process. I still like the idea of surprising her, though, given she's got no clue I have these heirlooms and is expecting me to be working on a budget that would never allow for something this impressive. I think that the surprise would be pretty cool.

I would vote for bringing her in on the design process if she loves non-traditional. She's going to be surprised anyway (and impressed) by the sheer choice of fab sparkly diamonds on offer (I would be!) and I think it would be a really fun project to work together on.
Also, having looked through the links you provided, there's a few different things going on there and not really any one standout style to my eye. I definitely think you should bring her on board to design it.

 

[ac117]

[Cross-post from "Antique and Vintage Jewelry"]

Closeup of ring "A":

*Copying facts from the appraisal doc:

1. Center diamond is 1.75cts. Old mine cut. Clarity SI1. Color grade H-I. Good symmetry, good polish. Three minor chips on girdle, crown, and pavilion.
2. First of two flanking diamonds is 43/100cts. Old mine cut. Clarity VS2-SI2. Color grade H-I. Fair to moderate symmetry and moderate to good polish.
3. Second of two flanking diamonds is 39/100cts. Old mine cut. Clarity VS2-SI2. Color grade H-I. Fair to moderate symmetry and moderate to good polish.

The 3 main stones of this ring are so beautiful and would make a KILLER 3 stone ring! Which, judging from the links you posted of her preferences, seems to reoccur and should be something she'll absolutely love! Hopefully CvB could make you a lovely setting and I do really like the Maria setting that someone posted (https://www.etsy.com/listing/584833...-inspired-three-stone?ref=shop_home_active_12).

Someone just had a delicious YG version of this ring made...thought it might be helpful for you to see how it turned out and some hand shots - https://www.pricescope.com/communit...ia-three-stone-by-cvb-inspired-design.240144/

 

[kgizo]

Another vote for a 3 stone ring. I think that will be beautiful with the stones you have. If you aren’t going to involve her in the design process you should ask about her preference for wearing a wedding band. If she wants to wear a diamond band that may affect your metal and setting choices to minimize wear from the band scratching the engagement ring.

 

[sledge]

Brother I feel your pain. My girl is making it hard on me too, LOL.

However, looking at the images you posted I'd say the 3 stone ring like the "Maria" by CVB that @tyty333 posted is spot on. Actually 4/7 of your images is that style. I'd do that for the e-ring and then find a complimentary wedding band.

Also, does she like yellow gold? I think it's a less popular choice in today's society, but not to say it's the wrong choice. I would just want to be certain before I went down that road. Of course, I've never liked yellow gold (or white gold for that fact) so I was happy when platinum and other metals started becoming popular.

All that said, the yellow gold version of the CVB ring that @ac117 posted is gorgeous and works. I'm still partial to platinum but will admit the yellow gold looks more old school.

Someone just had a delicious YG version of this ring made...thought it might be helpful for you to see how it turned out and some hand shots - https://www.pricescope.com/communit...ia-three-stone-by-cvb-inspired-design.240144/

 

[BlingObsession]

If you had the existing rings polished and rehabbed - is there a possibility she might like one as is - an original antique ring which has been in your family for at least 2 generations? Just a thought before you rip them apart ....

 

[motownmama]

I’m in the “3 stone from ring A” camp.

 

[partgypsy]

That is a treasure trove of rings! How thoughtful of your Dad. Yes, I would see if I could bring up with her, about how she feels about older cuts versus modern round brillant.

The only thing I'd add, is to buy an idealscope and look at all the stones through the scope. Pick a center stone that has the best cut (most red) as well as not having any clarity issues, or strong color. I really can't tell from the photos which is the "nicest" stone so do that and/or look at the stones in a variety of lighting conditions and pick the ones most pleasing.
I think 3 stones rings are gorgeous and if she bookmarked them and you have to stones for them, that is the way to go! CVB setting is gorgeous!

 

[Scratchy2]

I would call her style organic with a classic edge. CVB has some beautiful 3 stones and her brushed yellow gold is gorgeous. I would reach out to CvB.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/541389...erald-antique-diamond?ref=shop_home_active_34

I really like that description of her style. Very well put. And I do like that CBV setting that's getting a lot of chatter.

I am thinking a three-stone is the way to go. Beyond that, I'm still trying to figure out what other options I have. Is there anything I should know about how to set an OMC diamond vs a modern round cut? I'm seeing some differences with style (e.g. a lot of "Victorian" stuff), but is there anything technical to be aware of? Like, are there modern settings that straight up don't work with an OMC diamond?

Also: she'd previously been considering yellow gold but is now leaning toward platinum. She's trying to reign herself in, and is actively trying to consider what is "timeless" and versatile vs. what might be trendy at the moment (even if that's what she initially leans toward). She's very conscious that the ring would last through many different stages of life.

Edit: I showed her the CvB setting and she seemed to like it.

 

[Scratchy2]

If you had the existing rings polished and rehabbed - is there a possibility she might like one as is - an original antique ring which has been in your family for at least 2 generations? Just a thought before you rip them apart ....

I slipped in a picture of "Ring A" while running other ideas by her. She said, "I don't like it," and we moved on. Case closed: I'll be resetting them.

 

[sledge]

Also: she'd previously been considering yellow gold but is now leaning toward platinum. She's trying to reign herself in, and is actively trying to consider what is "timeless" and versatile vs. what might be trendy at the moment (even if that's what she initially leans toward). She's very conscious that the ring would last through many different stages of life.

Edit: I showed her the CvB setting and she seemed to like it.

What type of metal is the original rings? Only reason I ask is because they are two generations old and they aren't yellow gold. I understand what you are saying but if the girl prefers platinum then don't sway her for what may or may not be true in 20, 30 or 50 years down the road. And if you do use that logic, then at some point platinum will be back in style as well as all trends tend to recycle at some point. Buy what you guys like and can afford today and don't worry about that stuff is my opinion.

I slipped in a picture of "Ring A" while running other ideas by her. She said, "I don't like it," and we moved on. Case closed: I'll be resetting them.

I like your sneakiness. I've used the same tactic.

 

[Scratchy2]

What type of metal is the original rings? Only reason I ask is because they are two generations old and they aren't yellow gold. I understand what you are saying but if the girl prefers platinum then don't sway her for what may or may not be true in 20, 30 or 50 years down the road.

To clarify: the metal in the heirloom ring is some combo of white gold and platinum. A little unclear from the appraisal doc, but I'd guess the band is primarily white gold.

Separately, my girlfriend has been looking at a lot of rings online. She was originally leaning toward yellow gold since it's something a little different and striking. She's thought about it more, though, and is now leaning toward platinum; the rationale is that the platinum look is a little more neutral than yellow gold, and she's guessing she's less likely to get sick of it many years down the road (plus, she says a neutral metal would go with more outfits )

 

[metall]

@Scratchy2 I was going to suggest you propose to her with one of your dad's rings (preferably the one with the most desirable center stone). After your engagement, you can include her in the design process of her ring.

Your last post about her being unsure as to what metal to go with tells me that even if we can nail her style down, she may not be sure of what she wants until she sees it. There seem to be minute details she sounds like she would be interested in being involved with.

 

[Scratchy2]

@Scratchy2 I was going to suggest you propose to her with one of your dad's rings (preferably the one with the most desirable center stone). After your engagement, you can include her in the design process of her ring.

Your last post about her being unsure as to what metal to go with tells me that even if we can nail her style down, she may not be sure of what she wants until she sees it. There seem to be minute details she sounds like she would be interested in being involved with.

I'll try having another talk with her re: if she's okay letting me choose a ring or if she wants to be more involved. As of right now, I think she's been okay giving me opinions and letting me choose. And she's told me that my previous jewelry gifts for her have been spot on. I appreciate the feedback and it's worth exploring the possibility of doing the whole thing openly together. However, for now, let's assume that I'll try and get her something without spilling the beans on these heirlooms. I really like the surprise factor. She knows the proposal is coming at some point down the line, so it's nice to have something she doesn't expect.

As a side note, I was checking out ring shops with her the other day and she made a comment that made me so happy. She said, "I really wish we had some kind of heirlooms in one of our families. This whole thing would be so much easier. Plus, it would be so great if there was something that had sentimental value, or had a story or something. I certainly don't have anything like that on my side, though." I chimed in, "Yeah, you know I don't have anything like that. I wish." I felt really good about that exchange. I look forward to revisiting that story with her at some point in the future, when I'm able to impress her with the kind of ring she never thought she'd have.

Edit: I ran the CvB ring by my Dad and he really likes it. Like, REALLY likes it.

 

[sledge]

To clarify: the metal in the heirloom ring is some combo of white gold and platinum. A little unclear from the appraisal doc, but I'd guess the band is primarily white gold.

Separately, my girlfriend has been looking at a lot of rings online. She was originally leaning toward yellow gold since it's something a little different and striking. She's thought about it more, though, and is now leaning toward platinum; the rationale is that the platinum look is a little more neutral than yellow gold, and she's guessing she's less likely to get sick of it many years down the road (plus, she says a neutral metal would go with more outfits )

Platinum = more neutral to match more outfits. Gotta love women!

On a more serious note, sounds like white gold or platinum would actually honor previous generations in a more authentic way than yellow gold. However, whatever you two decide she really needs to like.

@Scratchy2 I was going to suggest you propose to her with one of your dad's rings (preferably the one with the most desirable center stone). After your engagement, you can include her in the design process of her ring.

Your last post about her being unsure as to what metal to go with tells me that even if we can nail her style down, she may not be sure of what she wants until she sees it. There seem to be minute details she sounds like she would be interested in being involved with.

This is actually a pretty good idea.

If you do it this way, I'd say it would be important for you to emphasis how important it is that you received a great gift and you want to honor her and your family by custom designing something that she will absolutely love. In many ways, it may bring you, her and your family all closer together.

 

[sledge]

I'll try having another talk with her re: if she's okay letting me choose a ring or if she wants to be more involved. As of right now, I think she's been okay giving me opinions and letting me choose. And she's told me that my previous jewelry gifts for her have been spot on. I appreciate the feedback and it's worth exploring the possibility of doing the whole thing openly together. However, for now, let's assume that I'll try and get her something without spilling the beans on these heirlooms. I really like the surprise factor. She knows the proposal is coming at some point down the line, so it's nice to have something she doesn't expect.

As a side note, I was checking out ring shops with her the other day and she made a comment that made me so happy. She said, "I really wish we had some kind of heirlooms in one of our families. This whole thing would be so much easier. Plus, it would be so great if there was something that had sentimental value, or had a story or something. I certainly don't have anything like that on my side, though." I chimed in, "Yeah, you know I don't have anything like that. I wish." I felt really good about that exchange. I look forward to revisiting that story with her at some point in the future, when I'm able to impress her with the kind of ring she never thought she'd have.

Haha, okay. Scratch my last comment. The exchange at the store was awesome, and you should definitely remind her of the story.

 

[SimoneDi]

@Scratchy2 ] congrats on your upcoming engagement! So wonderful for you to receive such beautiful heirloom rings! I do love the three stone idea and based on what your girlfriend has shared as “inspiration” rings, I think that she will love a three stone as well!

I also worked with CvB on my three stone and the results were beautiful. I just wanted to provide one more vote for a three stone and I am glad that you and your dad love CvBs designs. Here is my ring for reference if that would help you visualize your SOs potential new e-ring:

 

[Scratchy2]

Wow, everyone seems to give CvB glowing recommendations. Am I correct that it's a small operation? How does everyone know about this?

 

[SimoneDi]

Wow, everyone seems to give CvB glowing recommendations. Am I correct that it's a small operation? How does everyone know about this?

Small operation correct. Caysie (the designer) specializes in vintage pieces and will be able to create a beautiful setting for your beautiful heirloom diamonds!

 

[Gussie]

I have used Caysie for 9 projects and all of them have turned out beautifully. I adore my cvb goods! She really has an artistic point of view and her execution is meticulous.