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Help Date Yellow Heart Filigree Ring

justaddcoffee

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 19, 2016
Messages
42
This ring has me stumped and I hope you all might be able to help. It’s a 2ct heart shaped yellow diamond. The setting and cut of the diamond say early 1900s to me, but the ring has a yellow gold cup to help accentuate the diamond’s yellow color. Is the cup a more recent technique?

The setting is marked 18K. No makers mark. I’m 95% sure the diamond has a largeish open culet. The cup makes it difficult to see because light is blocked from coming through the back of the stone.

I’m thinking about asking my jeweler if he can remove the cup without damaging the ring. I want to be able to really see the facet pattern and the open culet!

Can anyone shed some light on when this ring may have been made? And what do you think about having the cup removed to let in more light?

B547D089-68EC-4A75-955E-A0827B21A97C.jpeg DB7D7062-942E-4387-94A8-8D9D0E35EB54.jpeg 116DD1EE-2A12-4D7A-8A15-B63FE38C4055.jpeg 622779BA-400B-41B1-99E3-9CE7A609A423.jpeg
 

YadaYadaYada

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Feb 2, 2016
Messages
6,173
The ring itself looks old based on wearing down of the milgrain on the edges towards the back of the band.

I think the heart was an addition, basically they opened or cut the top and added the yellow gold heart bezel with the diamond in it. That's what it looks like to me, now somebody else might have a different idea of course.

Removing the cup will almost definitely change the look of the diamond, it could be very light and the cup make it look much more yellow.
 

elizat

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
1,835
agree with @YadaYadaYada that the band pattern does look like it has some wear, but I don't think this is a true antique piece. It looks to me like it is a conversion piece of some sort. Perhaps the stone in the center was in a bezel originally and this was rebuilt. You do see closed back pieces or cups throughout various jewelry periods, so I don't think that helps me either.

I would really need to handle this in person to give better thoughts.
 

justaddcoffee

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 19, 2016
Messages
42
Thank you both for your thoughts on my ring! I agree that it was definitely a custom piece cobbled together to fit this particular stone. I wonder if it is a true antique ring or a more recent stock setting that was adapted to fit the heart shaped bezel.

I was able to get a photo of the open culet. It’s difficult to see in most lights because of the cup behind it.

C4899EFD-C6C2-4AAA-AE87-77D0D5B6D9D4.jpeg
 

justaddcoffee

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 19, 2016
Messages
42
Regarding removal of the cup and how it may affect the color, the diamond has a pretty strong green fluoresce. This seems to make it glow a very intense slightly greenish yellow in daylight. Indoors it sometimes appears much lighter. Probably on the lower end of the A-Z color spectrum. Any thoughts on what color it may appear without the cup?
 
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