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Help Choosing a Setting for Large Heirloom

thaifood122

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 17, 2019
Messages
21
Hi Pricescope! Thank you all for all your help so far! We're gotten the ring appraised and it's actually "just" 3.7 cts! Circa 1930, VS2, I color, faces up very white, medium culet, Excellent cut, VG polish and symmetry... the (GIA certified) appraiser was in love!

My engagement is imminent and we are going ahead and using the heirloom diamond. We are planning to reset it though since I want a more substantial feeling setting - this one feels a little thin and sharp. However, I'm really torn on what kind of setting to go for. Before I met this looker, I was going to get a 1.7-2 ct in a Vatche U113 6 prong knife edge setting. Now I'm torn between continuing on that train with this diamond or going for something more vintage like the Erstwhile Osiris (which I would have custom made by a local jeweler): http://instagr.am/p/BsWI08hBgiY/ . I like this one because it is a genuine art deco recreation and very reminiscent of the current setting with longer side petals. I've also had the idea of doing 6 claw prongs and simple diamond shoulders.

But as I said I'm torn and afraid of throwing away thousands on something I'm not going to adore so i'm feeling a little stuck. None of my friends or family care much about jewelry so I'm turning to all of you again!

I don't typically wear any jewelry aside from 1.5 ctw diamond studs and my 7.5 mm akoya studs. This is my first big piece of jewelry.

So Pricescopers, I'd love to hear from you! Of the above, which setting would you choose? And just for funsies, ignoring my ideas, how would you choose to reset this diamond?

IMG_3289.png
 

bludiva

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Sep 23, 2017
Messages
2,165
is there somewhere you can go to try on a few settings in person? that may help your decision. for example some people find the knife edge incomfortable to wear. or sometimes a setting looks beautiful in photos but doesn't look right on.
 

distracts

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Oct 11, 2011
Messages
5,495
I love the Erstwhile Jewelry setting!

I agree with bludiva to try settings on in person - as close to what you are looking at as possible. There were a lot of things I thought I would like that I ended up really DISliking when I tried them on.
 

Bron357

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 22, 2014
Messages
3,985
My goodness, what a beauty!
Don’t rush into it. Better to opt for a simple 6 prong white gold setting in the interim while you spend time considering what ring style you prefer. And it’s likely that in 5 or 10 years you may wish to reset your diamond. Many of us find our taste evolves over time.
a beauty like your diamond is best being “front and centre”.
if you wanted to “honor” the Art Deco vibe, I would go for a ring shank (half way) set with either emerald cut diamonds or French cut diamonds. This would add interest and elegance without being fussy and without overpowering the star of the show!
 

thaifood122

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 17, 2019
Messages
21
I have tried on settings in person which is how I found out that I don't like 3 stones or side baguettes, which I assumed I loved. I really loved 6 prong solitaires! I haven't tried on anything "vintage" except the heirloom we were given and unfortunately as I'm in grad school I'm not really sure where to find a setting like the Erstwhile setting to try on in person...
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
55,542
That's excellent news about your diamond!!! Can we see some views of the current setting? I am just curious if it could be rehabbed so you might consider keeping it?

I love that antique repro setting. Caysie van Bebber makes a style similar to that, also. It's gorgeous. Have you seen the bench work of the local jeweler? Because honestly, most local jewelers do not have as good benches as the popular and proven ring makers we know on PS.

I agree that finding high quality antique style settings to try on would be impossible where I live, as well. I'm going to post you a few pictures for ideas in a few minutes.
 

distracts

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Oct 11, 2011
Messages
5,495
I have tried on settings in person which is how I found out that I don't like 3 stones or side baguettes, which I assumed I loved. I really loved 6 prong solitaires! I haven't tried on anything "vintage" except the heirloom we were given and unfortunately as I'm in grad school I'm not really sure where to find a setting like the Erstwhile setting to try on in person...
My guess would be that if you don't like three-stones, you might not actually like the Erstwhile setting. How do you like the setting it's in now? In my experience, you either like settings where the sides are wider near the center stone, which includes three-stones and the Erstwhile setting, or you don't, period, full stop. A total solitaire is a completely different setting type from those.
 

thaifood122

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 17, 2019
Messages
21
To be honest, I haven't really paid attention to the bench work. I met with the jeweler twice when shopping for a diamond and liked his personality and his high reviews so thought I'd go through him for a setting now that we don't need a diamond. But I'm open to meeting someone else. If anyone has recommendations for Austin, TX for settings and custom work, do let me know!
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
55,542
Okay, @apacherose has a stone very close to the size of yours and it is set in the Chloe setting by CVB. And here's a thread with a lot of pictures:


78EDDE0D-DCEC-41CD-B92C-470FB4DFB94A.jpeg


Other views of the Chloe

12276872_501364383375246_150778378_n.jpg
 

thaifood122

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 17, 2019
Messages
21
That's a good point about not liking the settings that are wider near the diamond... I haven't thought about it like that!

Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of the setting and will not see the stone again until the end of the month when my partner visits with it.

From looking at pictures/memory, the setting is growing on me. I didn't like the side leafs at first. I'll see how I feel about it when I see it again.
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
55,542
Here's the Acacia by CVB which is a similar antique repro to the one you posted.

12139814_1653246104913579_1973722451_n.jpg

Then there's the Elsa...

CVB.ElsaSolitaire.jpg CVBelsa.jpg CVBelsaCADs.jpg

This is the Ivy solitaire by CVB.........

Image result for cvb ivy solitaire


CVBivy.mol42b.jpeg

CVBivy.mol42d.jpeg

Obviously the Acacia is a repro of an antique since it is similar to the one you posted, but the others are Caysie's own designs, so please use her if you happen to like one of those. I am just showing you some examples of antique style solitaires to consider. I have a diamond that is a newly cut OEC, and it has been in a Tiffany repro solitaire (which I already had) for the last 6.5 years while I have tried to decide on a permanent setting. I like all of these, but I can't seem to decide on just one! I hope you can be more decisive! I do think these antique stones are complimented by having a setting style from the same era.
 

lissyflo

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
891
My only word of warning if you like one of the CvB designs that DS posted is that, whilst absolutely beautiful, her designs can tend towards the dainty and delicate. You mentioned in your original post that you don’t like the current setting as it’s thin, but I’m not strictly sure what you mean by that - if you found when you tried on rings that you prefer a more solid, thicker shank then make sure that you discuss that with Caysie if you use her. She’s extremely talented so I’m sure she could modify a design to make it slightly less dainty (if that’s what you mean by thin!).

(Bear in mind when looking at settings that a standard shank will look thinner in comparison to a stone your size than say a 1ct stone as it will represent a smaller percentage of the stone’s diameter. So maybe your perception of the current setting feeling thin is just an adjustment to the stone’s size? If by thin you mean it’s very worn and thinned, it may be worth getting it checked before you wear it out and about, just in case there’s a structural issue!)
 
Last edited:

kipari

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 9, 2015
Messages
1,839
Congrats on this beautiful family stone!!!!!

Take your time and listen to @diamondseeker2006 .She has already said everything I was about to say.

I don't want to be repetitive,but using the right Bench for the right design is absolutely crucial. There are a ton of posts on here of people who tried "their local jeweler" for a specific design and it ends in a disaster about 90% of the time. Believe it or not, even the ones who though it would be sooo much safer to discuss things in person.
Custom is already very hard to do right with the RIGHT person. SO chose your vendor wisely.
 

Fabulous50

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 30, 2015
Messages
155
Hi Pricescope! Thank you all for all your help so far! We're gotten the ring appraised and it's actually "just" 3.7 cts! Circa 1930, VS2, I color, faces up very white, medium culet, Excellent cut, VG polish and symmetry... the (GIA certified) appraiser was in love!

My engagement is imminent and we are going ahead and using the heirloom diamond. We are planning to reset it though since I want a more substantial feeling setting - this one feels a little thin and sharp. However, I'm really torn on what kind of setting to go for. Before I met this looker, I was going to get a 1.7-2 ct in a Vatche U113 6 prong knife edge setting. Now I'm torn between continuing on that train with this diamond or going for something more vintage like the Erstwhile Osiris (which I would have custom made by a local jeweler): http://instagr.am/p/BsWI08hBgiY/ . I like this one because it is a genuine art deco recreation and very reminiscent of the current setting with longer side petals. I've also had the idea of doing 6 claw prongs and simple diamond shoulders.

But as I said I'm torn and afraid of throwing away thousands on something I'm not going to adore so i'm feeling a little stuck. None of my friends or family care much about jewelry so I'm turning to all of you again!

I don't typically wear any jewelry aside from 1.5 ctw diamond studs and my 7.5 mm akoya studs. This is my first big piece of jewelry.

So Pricescopers, I'd love to hear from you! Of the above, which setting would you choose? And just for funsies, ignoring my ideas, how would you choose to reset this diamond?

IMG_3289.png
I love the erstwhile Osiris!!
 

SimoneDi

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 19, 2014
Messages
3,672
@thaifood122 Wonderful update! The diamond seems to have awesome stats.

My recommendation for you will be to also think about what kind of wedding band you would like to pair with your soon-to-be engagement ring. Vintagey settings can be really beautiful on their own but are much more difficult to pair with w-bands. Most of the time the wedding bands that look good with intricate settings are thin and delicate, which I am not sure is something you will like. A solitaire will always be the most versatile setting and it allows for endless stacking options. The Vatche U113 is a beautiful, beautiful solitaire and it is probably the closest design to the classic T&Co. solitaire.

My advice for you will be to visit T&Co. and try a solitaire in a similar size if possible. Also make sure to try on some bands with it. Additionally, if you can, visit some other jewellery & antique stores and try more intricate settings. I think that will give you a good idea regarding which direction you want to take.
 

bludiva

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Sep 23, 2017
Messages
2,165
To be honest, I haven't really paid attention to the bench work. I met with the jeweler twice when shopping for a diamond and liked his personality and his high reviews so thought I'd go through him for a setting now that we don't need a diamond. But I'm open to meeting someone else. If anyone has recommendations for Austin, TX for settings and custom work, do let me know!
I'm im Austin and had my setting made locally

A couple of master goldsmiths in town you could check out if you want to go custom:
Steve Werbeck at Caleesi https://caleesidesigns.com/
Steve Kriechbaum http://skriechbaum.com

AJ at Abercrombie Gems was also recommended to me when I was looking, he's a 2nd generation jeweler and they do a lot of vintage styles

I talked to several more and they varied in price and capabilities...going with a local jeweler won't be the cheapest option and you do have to choose carefully but I personally didn't want to ship my stone so it was less stressful this way.

If you want to try on a variety of styles there is a store called the Ring in Round Rock - they will have vintage inspired, not actual vintage, but it is very easy to look around there b/c all the settings are out in the open and they encourage you to browse and try on whatever you like.

Getting an inexpensive 6 prong knife edge for the time being is not a bad idea either since you like that style and you can take your time (years, even!) to decide what to reset it into.

Good luck with the search!
 

AV_

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Aug 5, 2018
Messages
3,397
A modern solitaire www would be interesting/unexpected with - such a stone. The diamond will be noticed no matter what is hanging around.

(closer matched proportions - www)
 
Last edited:

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
55,542
My only word of warning if you like one of the CvB designs that DS posted is that, whilst absolutely beautiful, her designs can tend towards the dainty and delicate. You mentioned in your original post that you don’t like the current setting as it’s thin, but I’m not strictly sure what you mean by that - if you found when you tried on rings that you prefer a more solid, thicker shank then make sure that you discuss that with Caysie if you use her. She’s extremely talented so I’m sure she could modify a design to make it slightly less dainty (if that’s what you mean by thin!).

(Bear in mind when looking at settings that a standard shank will look thinner in comparison to a stone your size than say a 1ct stone as it will represent a smaller percentage of the stone’s diameter. So maybe your perception of the current setting feeling thin is just an adjustment to the stone’s size? If by thin you mean it’s very worn and thinned, it may be worth getting it checked before you wear it out and about, just in case there’s a structural issue!)
Excellent point! I always tell Caysie I want my shanks a minimum of 2mm. Many antique rings are very delicate. But when doing custom, the proportions can be boosted a bit for those of us who don't want a super delicate setting. If you go with a local jeweler, it would be good to come here with your CADs before approving them, because people can point out potential issues just so you can be aware.
 

thaifood122

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 17, 2019
Messages
21
Thank you all for your input! After taking another look at the local jewelers bench work and some petal work in person, I totally changed track and decided to go with Victor Canera and use french cut side stones (thanks for the idea Bron357! I hadn't heard of french cuts before but they look perfect with an understated elegance and beauty). We'll be submitting the payment and shipping the stone this week! I think something simple yet stunning is exactly right for what I'm looking for and and I'm excited to have something that is *completely* unique and artisan made from the hand cut diamond to the hand forged band. Thank you all again for your input and ideas! I'll be sure to post photos of the finished product!
 

Lessics

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jan 6, 2019
Messages
280
Sounds like a great turn. I’ve read 99% super positive reviews of VC (the one that wasn’t super happy did a custom project which she was very very picky about, which she admitted). Looking forward to see the end result!
 

lissyflo

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
891
Fantastic plan! French cuts will be amazing and I can’t wait to see pics!
 

msop04

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
9,768
@thaifood122 Wonderful update! The diamond seems to have awesome stats.

My recommendation for you will be to also think about what kind of wedding band you would like to pair with your soon-to-be engagement ring. Vintagey settings can be really beautiful on their own but are much more difficult to pair with w-bands. Most of the time the wedding bands that look good with intricate settings are thin and delicate, which I am not sure is something you will like. A solitaire will always be the most versatile setting and it allows for endless stacking options. The Vatche U113 is a beautiful, beautiful solitaire and it is probably the closest design to the classic T&Co. solitaire.

My advice for you will be to visit T&Co. and try a solitaire in a similar size if possible. Also make sure to try on some bands with it. Additionally, if you can, visit some other jewellery & antique stores and try more intricate settings. I think that will give you a good idea regarding which direction you want to take.
I agree with @SimoneDi... the busier the setting, the more difficult to chose a band to pair with it. I'm not sure the dimensions of your stone, but if you love the 6 prong Tiffany look, then I urge you to consider Caysie's (CVB) Jovyn. I, too, adore a 6 prong solitaire, which is why I had Caysie do petite tab prongs that were reminiscent of vintage Tiffany. Not sure what the diameter of your stone is, but mine is 9.8 mm and also an I color, so this may give you an idea of wht yours would look like in the Jovyn. It's like Tiffany, but sexier. ;-)


View attachment 732610View attachment 732611View attachment 732615View attachment 732617View attachment 732619
 

msop04

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 3, 2011
Messages
9,768
Oops... looks like you've already decided. Can't wait to see the finished ring!
 

thaifood122

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 17, 2019
Messages
21
I agree with @SimoneDi... the busier the setting, the more difficult to chose a band to pair with it. I'm not sure the dimensions of your stone, but if you love the 6 prong Tiffany look, then I urge you to consider Caysie's (CVB) Jovyn. I, too, adore a 6 prong solitaire, which is why I had Caysie do petite tab prongs that were reminiscent of vintage Tiffany. Not sure what the diameter of your stone is, but mine is 9.8 mm and also an I color, so this may give you an idea of wht yours would look like in the Jovyn. It's like Tiffany, but sexier. ;-)


View attachment 732610View attachment 732611View attachment 732615View attachment 732617View attachment 732619
It looks like I can't access your pictures but I'd love to see them if you could reupload! I LOVE solitaires but was worried such a large diamond wouldn't look great as a simple solitaire so i think I'm leaning towards the cathedral style Anya from VC!
 
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diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
55,542
Thank you all for your input! After taking another look at the local jewelers bench work and some petal work in person, I totally changed track and decided to go with Victor Canera and use french cut side stones (thanks for the idea Bron357! I hadn't heard of french cuts before but they look perfect with an understated elegance and beauty). We'll be submitting the payment and shipping the stone this week! I think something simple yet stunning is exactly right for what I'm looking for and and I'm excited to have something that is *completely* unique and artisan made from the hand cut diamond to the hand forged band. Thank you all again for your input and ideas! I'll be sure to post photos of the finished product!
Victor is wonderful and you'll have a gorgeous ring! By all means have him make the wedding band at the same time. It will be an incredible set! Just don't size the ring too tight because e-rings are always a little loose until you wear them with a wedding band.
 

lambskin

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 22, 2012
Messages
2,217
As it is not your ER I would put it in a brushed plat or white gold setting that would have a sculpted -swirly look but not a bezel. I know I make no sense as I do not know names of settings but I would do something really artistic (like branches, leaves, etc) and no extra diamonds. Otherwise, no halo and add a few baguettes on the side.
 
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