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Help! Adding colored stone to flat bracelet

LilAlex

Shiny_Rock
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Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Messages
413
Smart PS colored-stone and jewelry experts -- I need your help and good taste!

My sister inherited this lovely 18K YG bracelet -- it has V-shaped links and is florentined on the outside. It was purchased (and made?) in Istanbul c1960 or so. It's 6 1/2 in long (usable length) and ~ 3/4 in wide and it's pretty substantial. It's made to be worn fairly snug and sister needs to add ~ 1 in of length. I initially wanted to add an extender but after looking at the very complicated clasp -- tongue and receiver plus two safety clasps -- I think the best bet is to keep the clasp mechanism intact and (eek) split the bracelet and create a focal point in the center with a bezel-set colored stone. (We have some extra material [bottom picture] from when it was originally sized down -- but there's no easy way to add that back and it's still not enough length.)

IMG_6914.jpg
IMG_6915.jpg
IMG_6916.jpg
IMG_6917.jpg

The only 3/4-inch (18 mm) colored stone either of us can afford (!) is a tourmaline and she loves blue-green. So I was thinking of something like this:

bezel-set tourmaline copy.jpg
tourmaline example-2.jpg
tourmaline example-3.jpg

I'm not sure how to get an inch of real estate out of this -- I guess a halo or something. A wider tourmaline would be too "deep," probably (and too spendy).

I just think a columnar-looking blue-green tourmaline would look so cool on that bracelet.

Opinions on: 1) how that might look; 2) how to stretch my "concept" to add an inch of length; 3) other things to add an inch while creating a blue-green stone as the focal point of the bracelet...or any thing else you can think of!

The work will obviously cost more than the bracelet is worth -- but it has an amazing amount of sentimental value and I'd love for my sister to be able to wear it.

Thank you!
 

PieAreSquared

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Dec 18, 2014
Messages
224
I'm no jeweler, but are you sure adding a centerpiece (and somehow breaking up the Vs in the center) would be easier than having an extension added to one of the ends?

Of course, if you just want to add some color, that's a different story and completely understandable!:)
 

NonieMarie

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
May 30, 2012
Messages
878
Seeing the sample ring, I can totally envision a thick flat prong bezel set in the center of the bracelet. The problem I see is the V's all go in the same direction. The points would touch on one side and the tops of the V's on the other. When you separate at the center, it would need to be flipped and the easiest side of the clasp reattached. An idea if you don't flip, small gold beads around the outside that can be used to finish the ends of the links. You might be able to incorporate the extra V's into the bigger bezel.
 

LilAlex

Shiny_Rock
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Mar 3, 2018
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413
When you separate at the center, it would need to be flipped and the easiest side of the clasp reattached.
Interesting idea -- thank you! The clasp is "directional" (it catches on only one edge) so I don't think I could do that. But I agree that it would look nicer with the arrowheads all pointing toward or away from the new center.

I'm no jeweler, but are you sure adding a centerpiece (and somehow breaking up the Vs in the center) would be easier than having an extension added to one of the ends?

Of course, if you just want to add some color, that's a different story and completely understandable!
I think it will be really hard to match the pattern and both ends of the clasp -- so I can't just put an extra inch of the same in between and I'm pretty sure I can not source that 50-year-old non-standard sized clasp. I mean I could just cut off both parts of the clasp and laser-weld something random in between -- but I don't really want a bulky new clasp adjacent to the focal point if I were to put a colored stone there.
 

Bron357

Ideal_Rock
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Jan 22, 2014
Messages
4,323
Me, I’d be inclined to put a vintage brooch in the centre. There are dozens to choose from (eBay for eg) and that would be more cost effective. The bracelet, cut in the centre, can be “trimmed” to suit the shape of the brooch and then simply soldered together.
Here are some brooch C3AED0A6-D72E-46A2-972F-02D92D3AD0C5.jpeg 788D9945-8485-41C8-90D1-277A0A75A209.jpeg 3D98D1F5-13FB-4A71-8049-033565EA4BB0.jpeg E9F9868E-F0B9-4B62-A4DB-32203928CB00.jpeg 3D9AD217-209E-4213-81AB-6EF20B36830F.jpeg B54EE827-D05A-4344-995C-0A34AFD1F3EE.jpeg 2B731162-A473-4A2B-9669-12CFC51A53A8.jpeg 9AAAED72-83DA-4503-9534-C8521EEEF551.jpeg AFAE393F-7560-4E4B-9B0A-6B57B3B43305.jpeg 18C0B668-FB0C-4AB9-B19D-62343F03E4EB.jpeg ideas.
 

Daisys and Diamonds

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Apr 30, 2019
Messages
4,985
Me, I’d be inclined to put a vintage brooch in the centre. There are dozens to choose from (eBay for eg) and that would be more cost effective. The bracelet, cut in the centre, can be “trimmed” to suit the shape of the brooch and then simply soldered together.
Here are some brooch C3AED0A6-D72E-46A2-972F-02D92D3AD0C5.jpeg 788D9945-8485-41C8-90D1-277A0A75A209.jpeg 3D98D1F5-13FB-4A71-8049-033565EA4BB0.jpeg E9F9868E-F0B9-4B62-A4DB-32203928CB00.jpeg 3D9AD217-209E-4213-81AB-6EF20B36830F.jpeg B54EE827-D05A-4344-995C-0A34AFD1F3EE.jpeg 2B731162-A473-4A2B-9669-12CFC51A53A8.jpeg 9AAAED72-83DA-4503-9534-C8521EEEF551.jpeg AFAE393F-7560-4E4B-9B0A-6B57B3B43305.jpeg 18C0B668-FB0C-4AB9-B19D-62343F03E4EB.jpeg ideas.
Yes !
Rehome a vintage brooch, that would give you more length and lots and lots of fabulous options out thete
 

LilAlex

Shiny_Rock
Premium
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Messages
413
Me, I’d be inclined to put a vintage brooch in the centre. There are dozens to choose from (eBay for eg) and that would be more cost effective. The bracelet, cut in the centre, can be “trimmed” to suit the shape of the brooch and then simply soldered together.
Great idea -- thank you!

They definitely lean toward the "old lady"-ish and she would want something a lot more tailored-looking. Maybe there are 18K Deco-ish brooches out there (?) although I tend to think of platinum. Definitely a great idea, though, and would save a lot of craftsmanship... I will poke around!
 

paragon1234

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Mar 8, 2020
Messages
101
In what way is it sentimental? As in, would it be enough to get someone to make a replica in new gold, or maybe you could melt it and make a new one.
 

LilAlex

Shiny_Rock
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Mar 3, 2018
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413
In what way is it sentimental? As in, would it be enough to get someone to make a replica in new gold, or maybe you could melt it and make a new one.
More sentimental than that! Loved one, of modest means, wore it all the time -- almost her signature piece in the '70s and '80s. Plus, although my pictures may not show it, it's beautiful. So it's more the actual bracelet than the gold atoms that evoke the sentimentality. =)2

In terms of making a replica, commissioning someone to cast and hand-assemble those thousand V-links, and hand-finish each and diamond-cut a bunch would have to be five or even six figures :oops2:

I said Istanbul, since that's where it was purchased, but the hallmark is "98vi" which I just learned is Vicenza, Italy (thanks, Google).
 

GliderPoss

Ideal_Rock
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Sep 25, 2008
Messages
2,474
I would put the Tourmaline stone into a bezel that could be SLID over the bracelet but not attached to it - make sense? They she can switch centrepieces whenever she likes!
 

LilAlex

Shiny_Rock
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Mar 3, 2018
Messages
413
I would put the Tourmaline stone into a bezel that could be SLID over the bracelet but not attached to it - make sense? They she can switch centrepieces whenever she likes!
Thanks for thinking! The whole idea was to lengthen the bracelet so I don't think that would do it.

Also metal "sliding" on metal would be a short-term solution for sure! Maybe a Teflon lining =)2
 

deorwine

Shiny_Rock
Joined
May 5, 2005
Messages
323
What if you took the complicated clasp off entirely, put back the missing links, and replaced the previous clasp with another, larger clasp that itself had a colored stone (e.g., have a jeweler make a clasp from a brooch as people are suggesting above)?

ETA: These guys make clasps and I've been thinking of getting one for a bracelet I have. They are probably a little small for your purposes but I'm sure you could ask them if they could make bigger ones that could attach to the bracelet at more places. They do tend towards a Victorian esthetic but e.g. CL013 looks nice and a little more modern.
 

LilAlex

Shiny_Rock
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Mar 3, 2018
Messages
413
What if you took the complicated clasp off entirely, put back the missing links, and replaced the previous clasp with another, larger clasp that itself had a colored stone (e.g., have a jeweler make a clasp from a brooch as people are suggesting above)?
Interesting idea -- thank you! Those claps look pretty.

The extra pieces are not really usable -- I don't think anyone can join these tiny bits end-to-end and there is some fusing along the cut line.
 
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