shape
carat
color
clarity

Half carat OEC pendant project

That sounds like a fun challenge that would be right up your alley!

I know I could fine an old cut of some type, perhaps an elongated cushion. But I’ve literally never seen an oval in all my years!
 
It arrived! It’s very beautiful and delicate and I’m so happy with it. The craftsmanship is definitely fine enough to play with my other finely made rings and I love the Nouveau elfin style of it. The gold color is very rich being 15k. I need to buy a chain so I’m wearing it with a silver chain in the images.

I’m very glad I didn’t end up setting the diamond in a smaller scale setting like I was originally planning because wearing this it’s very obvious the scale of such a piece would have been entirely out of proportion to my frame, so thanks @elizat for pointing that out. This feels just right for the look I wanted. It’s hard to take good pictures wearing it! It’s prettier in person because the metal shines and the stones do have a little bit of flash.

IMG_5101.jpegIMG_5102.jpeg
I’m wearing it with two different length chains I own. I think I want something just a hint longer than the first but not as long as the second. This is my casual weekend/summer clothing but it’s a neckline I commonly wear. I think it looks nice.

IMG_5091.jpegIMG_5096.jpegIMG_5109.jpegIMG_5110.jpegIMG_5109.jpeg


I have mixed feelings about how/whether to adapt it. The gems are 5mm round and 6x4. They are amethyst so a very deep purple that tends to get very dark in most lighting. I think the pictures show that. It’s a nice contrast with the gold metal and it’s a little more casual than a diamond and pearl would be. I like the contrast but the color is not very vivid and somehow the gems don’t live up to the richness of the gold. A diamond and pearl would make it a little dressier and add some flash. I was contemplating removing the drop but I kind of like it so I think it will stay.

Oh I love this! It's a beautiful piece and it has a really nice presence! That color gold is so pretty and rich. This is a winner ! I think the center would be pretty with a diamond. Will your stone fit there?

I like the drop personally. I like the amethyst honestly.
 
Oh I love this! It's a beautiful piece and it has a really nice presence! That color gold is so pretty and rich. This is a winner ! I think the center would be pretty with a diamond. Will your stone fit there?

I like the drop personally. I like the amethyst honestly.

Thanks! The gold looks richer in person I can't capture it with my camera very well. Seller said the round amethyst was 5mm, my calipers are saying 4.9. My diamond is 5mm. I am hoping that with retipping the prongs (needed) they can accommodate?? Examining the setting closely I think the round amethyst might actually be a little small for the basket, so I'm cautiously optimistic that my diamond will be just right. I'm going to visit a few local jewelers this week.

I was originally thinking the contrast between the diamond and the amethyst drop was weird but maybe it isn't?
 
I was originally thinking the contrast between the diamond and the amethyst drop was weird but maybe it isn't?

Why not try it that way? You can always change it later.

As for the size, it would seem that a jeweler could make your stone fit pretty easily. I've seem people buying setting for stones where the setting is a bit smaller and it has worked out. Keep us posted.
 
Why not try it that way? You can always change it later.

As for the size, it would seem that a jeweler could make your stone fit pretty easily. I've seem people buying setting for stones where the setting is a bit smaller and it has worked out. Keep us posted.

I should add, wise advice as usual!
 
Oh the trials and tribulations of living in a relatively small Canadian community in this era of sky high gold prices and inflation and tariffs!

The good news is they thought the diamond would fit no problem. They also showed me a new bail they could attach, just a small pretty one from Stuller, and it looked so pretty and the cost to replace it was reasonable.

The bad news is they seemed to think they would need to retip all 10 (!!) prongs lol. And the quote including taxes etc was like $710 CAN to do so. Which is around $500 USD. This seems so high! Their goldsmith was not there that day so they said I could come back when she returns from vacation and they could see if there was a more cost effective way to do the work, perhaps only retipping a few prongs. So I suppose that quote was worse case scenario.

There is one other place in town with a well respected bench and a laser welder etc. I am not super keen to use them as I had a very bad experience with them once for custom work, though this job is no where near as substantial. I may get a quote anyway just for a comparison point.

I think the cost of everything jewelry related has gone through the roof lately. I noticed appraisals and even simple resizing was very high cost of late.
 
Oh the trials and tribulations of living in a relatively small Canadian community in this era of sky high gold prices and inflation and tariffs!

The good news is they thought the diamond would fit no problem. They also showed me a new bail they could attach, just a small pretty one from Stuller, and it looked so pretty and the cost to replace it was reasonable.

The bad news is they seemed to think they would need to retip all 10 (!!) prongs lol. And the quote including taxes etc was like $710 CAN to do so. Which is around $500 USD. This seems so high! Their goldsmith was not there that day so they said I could come back when she returns from vacation and they could see if there was a more cost effective way to do the work, perhaps only retipping a few prongs. So I suppose that quote was worse case scenario.

There is one other place in town with a well respected bench and a laser welder etc. I am not super keen to use them as I had a very bad experience with them once for custom work, though this job is no where near as substantial. I may get a quote anyway just for a comparison point.

I think the cost of everything jewelry related has gone through the roof lately. I noticed appraisals and even simple resizing was very high cost of late.

Wow! I feel like 700 is halfway to a new pendant. I think it’s definitely worth a second opinion.
 
Wow! I feel like 700 is halfway to a new pendant. I think it’s definitely worth a second opinion.

I mean, part of why went this route is because I get an original, unique, antique pendant… it would cost far more to just buy a finished piece in this design with a half carat OECs etc etc, even if you could find it. I haven’t seen such a design, not for the end price this would cost me. It would be more as well to custom make it, if I could even design it to begin with. And I suppose if I’m going to spend that amount I would be much happier with this finished piece than I would have been with a tiny little stock Stuller setting.

But yeah. Second opinion for sure.

I wish I was the type to be satisfied with a $50 basket solitaire mounting :lol-2:
 
The bad news is they seemed to think they would need to retip all 10 (!!) prongs lol. And the quote including taxes etc was like $710 CAN to do so

I would think you could get away with retipping 5 prongs. Say, every other one. You certainly don't need 10 prongs to hold a 1/2 ct. diamond. So long as they can make it look symmetric and keep the prongs tiny, I would think that would work. Would that lower the cost to something like $250 USD? Seems like they are charging $50 USD per prong.
 
I would think you could get away with retipping 5 prongs. Say, every other one. You certainly don't need 10 prongs to hold a 1/2 ct. diamond. So long as they can make it look symmetric and keep the prongs tiny, I would think that would work. Would that lower the cost to something like $250 USD? Seems like they are charging $50 USD per prong.

This is excellent advice!
 
@Lookinagain I had the exact same thought and I asked about that. Their master goldsmith was on vacation so they were giving me the “worse case” quote. They said I could visit again when the goldsmith returned to see if such an approach was advisable or possible.

I suppose I began this whole thing looking for an inexpensive way to set this half carat stone but now it’s tuned into something else. I really love the design of this pendant and so it’s become more of a design project, which I enjoy. I’m that case I suppose the price doesn’t matter to me so much as it offers me entertainment and my pleasure is worth spending money on.

I have been pondering buying a colored gemstone to replace the drop amethyst as I love its little basket so much but I would prefer a more sparkly, vibrant stone. I’ve been pondering also how attaching a bail accented with a small stone of the same species as the drop would add balance perhaps…

I also reached out to Canadian Etsy seller SimplyAdorned4u, who makes pearl jewelry and is recommended on the PS pearl forum, and she very kindly offered me this beautiful ombré peach and pink freshwater pearl, 4.6mm x 5.8, which she will make into a little charm for me for a very reasonable price. Actually she gave me a few options but this one really speaks to me. So I will have this option to explore too! If I don’t use it for the pendant I’m sure I can use it as a charm for another project.

IMG_5189.jpeg
 
I suppose I began this whole thing looking for an inexpensive way to set this half carat stone but now it’s tuned into something else. I really love the design of this pendant and so it’s become more of a design project, which I enjoy. I’m that case I suppose the price doesn’t matter to me so much as it offers me entertainment and my pleasure is worth spending money on.

I figured that instead of just doing something temporary which I thought was your original goal that this will be a permanent setting for the diamond which of course, in my mind, it should be. The piece is so special. So if it were me, I'd think about what that type of permanent setting would cost, were I to have it made, and if you come in at or below that amount, then I'd say it's a win.

As far as only tipping half of the prongs, I don't know why it wouldn't be advisable. As I said, a half carat stone shouldn't need ten prongs. Possible, I don't know why it wouldn't be, but I'm not a jeweler. I'd be interested to see what another jeweler says about that, just to make sure they aren't telling you something just to get more done to charge more.

I’ve been pondering also how attaching a bail accented with a small stone of the same species as the drop would add balance perhaps…

I like this idea. Then you could keep the drop you have. Could it be a bale with a few tiny stones set flush? Just a few, not filling the whole bale? kind of like sprinkles? I have no idea if that could be done.
 
Last edited:
I wish I was the type to be satisfied with a $50 basket solitaire mounting :lol-2:

Sorry I am late to the party. But I agree with @Lookinagain that this deserves a permanent setting. I "think" we can save money on "temporary" settings but then we end up resetting to a permanent setting. So we have essentially paid twice which would negate any saving. If possible try to put it in a permanent setting to begin with. I really adore the unique and substantive setting over a simple stock stuller setting that would get lost in our neckline lol. I say it's worth saving the extra for!
 
I figured that instead of just doing something temporary which I thought was your original goal that this will be a permanent setting for the diamond which of course, in my mind, it should be. The piece is so special. So if it were me, I'd think about what that type of permanent setting would cost, were I to have it made, and if you come in at or below that amount, then I'd say it's a win.
I’m not sure I was looking for temporary per se but just looking for something inexpensive and easy because I didn’t really have a vision for this small diamond. But maybe now I do!

My mom has a pendant I’ve always coveted. I think it’s a converted stick pin. It has a little ruby. I think my dad might have given it to her back on the Scottish hippie commune where I was born lol. It’s her only nice piece of jewelry. She refuses to give it to me lol

IMG_2491.jpeg

I really love this Art Nouveau pendant I found because while it’s a very different style from my moms, it has a similar vibe as a somewhat sculptural piece, yellow gold, and the proportions are similar. I really do love it and I think if I set the diamond and upgrade the dangle stone it would be a forever piece for my collection. I really do like having original pieces that I have a hand in designing. This fits the bill.

I’m sure it would cost a lot to make it new and I would have to get it made in the US, if I wanted an equivalent or similar, which is a major PITA these days. I paid about $350 USD for the pendant and even after repairs the price for the setting would surely be less than a similar size piece newly made. These days with metal prices, even a much smaller scale Lily Pendant (the other project I was considering this year) from CRD is like $1400USD. A carved pendant from Cheyenne Weil is about $3000. Trying to custom design it with DK or similar would be difficult as the proportions are really perfect and trying to recreate or make something like it would be so hard. True antiques cannot be replicated! My pendant was cast in many pieces and hand assembled. The workmanship is very fine. The 15k gold has tremendous patina. It really is special. Even if it could be made I can’t imagine it costing less that $1000 USD, probably a fair bit more.

Anyway, I will get a few more quotes for the rehab work and keep pondering but I feel pretty committed to completing it. I think it will be a very special piece for me in the end, created with love.
 
As far as only tipping half of the prongs, I don't know why it wouldn't be advisable. As I said, a half carat stone shouldn't need ten prongs. Possible, I don't know why it wouldn't be, but I'm not a jeweler. I'd be interested to see what another jeweler says about that, just to make sure they aren't telling you something just to get more done to charge more.
Honestly this is kind of my thought too as even if the 10 prongs aren’t super strong there are 10 lol. And its a pendant not a ring! I shall ask some other places.

My go-to inexpensive bench refused the job because they don’t have a laser welder and worried about damaging the pearls so that was disappointing.
I might end up emailing DK about it after all! Especially if I change the dangle stone.

I’ve been pondering also how attaching a bail accented with a small stone of the same species as the drop would add balance perhaps…

I like this idea. Then you could keep the drop you have. Could it be a bale with a few tiny stones set flush? Just a few, not filling the whole bale? kind of like sprinkles? I have no idea if that could be done.
I need to look for more inspo but I think there is a way to make it work cohesively. Maybe something subtle like this, though these proportions are not right.

IMG_5055.jpeg

Or just a small bezel stone, like the top pearl.

IMG_5055.jpeg
I will continue to think!
 
Last edited:
I like both of those options but I think I like the second one with the single stone best.
 
Well the second place quoted me $200 CAD for the job so I left it with them lol. That is much more in line with what I thought it should cost!.

Right now I’m having the diamond set and a pretty new bail attached.

IMG_5055.jpeg

I will explore whether I want to add a small stone to the bezel like the second mock up above once I wear it for a while and decide whether I’m going to keep the amethyst, switch it out, or add a pearl.
 
Can't wait to see it set with your diamond!
 
Well the second place quoted me $200 CAD for the job so I left it with them lol. That is much more in line with what I thought it should cost!.

Right now I’m having the diamond set and a pretty new bail attached.

IMG_5055.jpeg

I will explore whether I want to add a small stone to the bezel like the second mock up above once I wear it for a while and decide whether I’m going to keep the amethyst, switch it out, or add a pearl.

Well that is certainly a much better price. Do they think that they need to retip the prongs and if so, how many are they doing?
 
Well that is certainly a much better price. Do they think that they need to retip the prongs and if so, how many are they doing?

They didn’t say and I didn’t ask! I’ve used the many times for this kind of work in the past. With 10 prongs, even if they are thin and they are not retipped I cannot imagine it is an issue of security in a pendant. They are a shop known for goldsmithing. They said they would call me if it would cost more then the quote so I might get a call saying it’s… $700!! Lol
 
I bet no retipping is really necessary, isn't not like there are missing prongs. And they still seem to come up over the girdle of the existing stone. I'm glad you went for the second opinion. That is quite a difference in cost.
 
I bet no retipping is really necessary, isn't not like there are missing prongs. And they still seem to come up over the girdle of the existing stone. I'm glad you went for the second opinion. That is quite a difference in cost.

Yeah I knew the first quote was wild. I even said that when they told me lol

One tip is damaged and could need retipping. But yeah. I think the rest are serviceable especially given there are so many.

About 10 year ago I had a five stone where nearly every prong needed retipping and there were 30 of them! The place I left the pendant charged me like $300 for that job. So even with inflation etc I knew the first quote I got was out of line. It’s a shop in a fancy area. I think it’s like a Linda Evangelista “I don’t get out of bed for less than 10000” situation :lol-2:
 
I called the jeweler and cancelled the new bail. I want to decide about the dangle before adding a bail and deciding if I want accent stones on it. I’d also like to find a nice gold chain so I know the overall look.

So just waiting on my diamond to be set!
 
I'm glad you found someone to do the work at a reasonable price! It will be really pretty.

You almost make me want to wear a pendant!

I have wanted a memorial piece for my beloved dog that passed a few years ago. A locket, with scattered stones on one side with colors significant to the boys and his initial on the other, with room for his brother when he passes. I know it's maybe morbid. But I think it would be nice. Unless I could find one I could engrave.
 
I'm glad you found someone to do the work at a reasonable price! It will be really pretty.

You almost make me want to wear a pendant!

I have wanted a memorial piece for my beloved dog that passed a few years ago. A locket, with scattered stones on one side with colors significant to the boys and his initial on the other, with room for his brother when he passes. I know it's maybe morbid. But I think it would be nice. Unless I could find one I could engrave.

Memorial jewelry has a long history in many cultures, I think it’s lovely. And a locket would allow you to get the scale you want and incorporate the gems you want. It’s a wonderful idea. You could even put their pictures inside.

I think it would be special to find an antique you could engrave and even add stones too.

A locket is also in my want list, but I would like to wear it on a very long chain so I could play with it while I work.
 
She’s back!

I’m mostly satisfied with how it turned out. They didn’t retip any prongs. Just removed the amethyst and plopped in the diamond lol. I think it’s secure enough for a pendant. I wouldn’t sleep or shower or exercise wearing a pendant anyway. Some of the prongs are holding on for dear life, but at least 6 look secure. I don’t think I want to invest anymore in the piece so it is what it is!

IMG_5242.jpegIMG_5239.jpegIMG_5233.jpegIMG_5228.jpegIMG_5222.jpeg
 
She’s back!

I’m mostly satisfied with how it turned out. They didn’t retip any prongs. Just removed the amethyst and plopped in the diamond lol. I think it’s secure enough for a pendant. I wouldn’t sleep or shower or exercise wearing a pendant anyway. Some of the prongs are holding on for dear life, but at least 6 look secure. I don’t think I want to invest anymore in the piece so it is what it is!

IMG_5242.jpegIMG_5239.jpegIMG_5233.jpegIMG_5228.jpegIMG_5222.jpeg

It looks so pretty!!! What are you thinking about the amethyst drop? Leaving it?
 
It looks so pretty!!! What are you thinking about the amethyst drop? Leaving it?

Yeah I like it! Fun pop of color.

I think in an ideal world I would replace the drop with a nicer quality gem with more sparkle, replace the bail with an accented one, retip all the prongs on the diamond so it would last another 100 years, and buy a solid gold chain (this is an inexpensive gold fill chain). I may save up for that and send it to DK for the work some day… But for now I am happy as it is!
 
GET 3 FREE HCA RESULTS JOIN THE FORUM. ASK FOR HELP
Top