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Getting confused and a bit stressed on ring setting - advice?

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denverboy

denverboy

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 9, 2008
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222
As some of you already know, I have been interested in a setting design like this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/EDWARDIAN-STYLE-DIAMOND-PLATINUM-5-5mm-RING-MOUNTING_W0QQitemZ5023418017QQihZ016QQcategoryZ52603QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

But have only seen this design on ebay here or at fay cullen, and neither of these places seem to have "quality" products. The workmanship seems shabby, and there are other issues too (ring size, ebay store not a "real" store, etc).

I have also looked in to getting a design similar to this one custom made at local jewellers and one person gave a price estimate of $2000-2,200 for a platinum ring with round brilliant cut side diamonds (no center stone). Does this sound like a reasonable/avg cost?

Since my TARGET budget is $3,500, and my MAX budget is $4,000, that doesn''t leave much for the diamond (aiming for a 0.7 carat, G-H color, VS or SI). So it''s starting to make me depressed =P

Also it seems most custom ring places here have the process of first creating a "wax" model, then taking that to a separate casting place where the setting is made. Does anyone fully "handmake" rings anymore? For a ring with the type of detail I''d like (shown in the link above), what type of process would be best? I don''t want it to come out looking like a cheap-looking, rough factory cutout =/

Has anyone here had their ring custom made? How does it look? Is it ''worth it''?

Should I consider white gold instead of platinum to reduce the cost?

Next weekend I plan to go browse around a few stores and hopefully find another design style I like. Ideally I''ll just find a ready made setting somewhere haha
 
Date: 7/17/2008 11:10:15 AM
Author:denverboy
As some of you already know, I have been interested in a setting design like this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/EDWARDIAN-STYLE-DIAMOND-PLATINUM-5-5mm-RING-MOUNTING_W0QQitemZ5023418017QQihZ016QQcategoryZ52603QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

But have only seen this design on ebay here or at fay cullen, and neither of these places seem to have ''quality'' products. The workmanship seems shabby, and there are other issues too (ring size, ebay store not a ''real'' store, etc).

I have also looked in to getting a design similar to this one custom made at local jewellers and one person gave a price estimate of $2000-2,200 for a platinum ring with round brilliant cut side diamonds (no center stone). Does this sound like a reasonable/avg cost?

Since my TARGET budget is $3,500, and my MAX budget is $4,000, that doesn''t leave much for the diamond (aiming for a 0.7 carat, G-H color, VS or SI). So it''s starting to make me depressed =P

Also it seems most custom ring places here have the process of first creating a ''wax'' model, then taking that to a separate casting place where the setting is made. Does anyone fully ''handmake'' rings anymore? For a ring with the type of detail I''d like (shown in the link above), what type of process would be best? I don''t want it to come out looking like a cheap-looking, rough factory cutout =/

Has anyone here had their ring custom made? How does it look? Is it ''worth it''?

Should I consider white gold instead of platinum to reduce the cost?

Next weekend I plan to go browse around a few stores and hopefully find another design style I like. Ideally I''ll just find a ready made setting somewhere haha
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What is wrong with white gold? i happen to really like white gold... just a personal preference... plat. is def. more expensive. does your girlfriend have a preference?? you could always buy the diamond, set it in a tiffany style setting until you can get a little more money together... just a thought! good luck!
 
That quote seems about right. White gold will save you some, but it''s hard to guess how much; maybe a few hundred? Have you gotten a quote from WF? They did a similar design that was featured in an article last year. At least then you''d get the PS discount, or if it''s better maybe your B&M will price-match.
Good luck!
 
when I tried to explain the pros/cons of plat vs WG she didn''t really like the idea of getting it re-rhodium plated every now and then. And another thing I was wondering about is which metal/finsh would look best for this type of antique style ring. Would a platinum finish that starts getting a patina w/ a duller appearance look better, or would a WG ring that gets re-plated and shiny looking regularly look better.

I think another big concern for her was that gold wears away and platinum doesn''t. Obviously its at a fairly mild pace, but after 30-40 yrs .. how much would it wear away (w/ daily use)? we still want it to be there! =P
 
haven''t talked to WF yet... what is this PS discount you speak of? =O
 
Date: 7/17/2008 11:21:40 AM
Author: denverboy
when I tried to explain the pros/cons of plat vs WG she didn''t really like the idea of getting it re-rhodium plated every now and then. And another thing I was wondering about is which metal/finsh would look best for this type of antique style ring. Would a platinum finish that starts getting a patina w/ a duller appearance look better, or would a WG ring that gets re-plated and shiny looking regularly look better.

I think another big concern for her was that gold wears away and platinum doesn''t. Obviously its at a fairly mild pace, but after 30-40 yrs .. how much would it wear away (w/ daily use)? we still want it to be there! =P
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when we were buying my ring i decided that i really liked gold better.. my ring is antiquish but with pave everywhere. they told me gold was a better option. i actually likes the fact that i would have to get it dipped.. you should take your ring in for maintenance anyway... it would just force me to go!! the ONLY think that i liked about platinum was that it was heavier!!
 
I like cbs''s idea of getting a simple setting for the proposal and picking out the real setting together. I don''t know anything about going custom, but I do like white gold. If you''d like to spend more on the diamond you could spend almost all of your budget on that and buy the setting together on another big occasion (christmas, brithday, anniversary, wedding gift, etc.) Just a thought, but I am a simple solitaire kind of girl anyway. I guess it would depend on what''s more important to her, the diamond or the setting or both! Good luck with whatever you choose
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Denverboy, the price you''re listing ($2000-2200) does seem in line with what you''re asking for.

Regarding the custom process, most custom pieces are indeed made by making a wax (or a CAD first) and then casting the piece. Even many ''handmade'' rings are fashioned with pieces/parts that were cast.

Selecting a handmade piece will also increase the cost of the piece, so if you''re having budget crunch issues now, they will only become amplified by requiring the piece to be handmade.

I think many people thing of casting as ''mere production assembly''; there''s much more to it than that. While most pieces have cast elements at some stage, it''s the skill of the benchman applying the finish details that really impacts the quality of the finished piece.

It''s similar to a great sculptor sitting at the wheel versus a local artisan potter; both begin with a lump of clay. It''s the skill, experience, creativity, and mastery of the sculptor and how he works the clay that makes his finished piece a prized and quality work of art.
 
Sorry, posted before I saw your other post. Lots of people have very very old rings that are gold and they don''t just wear away to the point they''re not there anymore. In the case of white gold especially, the rhodium would really be the only thing to wear off and then once it gets re-plated it''s there again. White gold shines up easier than platinum, but some people like how platinum kind of "dulls" over time. Depends on what you like.
 
Date: 7/17/2008 11:30:56 AM
Author: Kelli
I like cbs''s idea of getting a simple setting for the proposal and picking out the real setting together. I don''t know anything about going custom, but I do like white gold. If you''d like to spend more on the diamond you could spend almost all of your budget on that and buy the setting together on another big occasion (christmas, brithday, anniversary, wedding gift, etc.) Just a thought, but I am a simple solitaire kind of girl anyway. I guess it would depend on what''s more important to her, the diamond or the setting or both! Good luck with whatever you choose
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That is a good option Kelli, but I have my mind set on getting a complete ring for the proposal =D She doesn''t know much about diamonds so actually the setting is equally as important. And it is MY preference that I select the setting b/c I want her to be surprised when she sees it. I think it would kill some of the excitement if she knew what was coming. There are 2 things that can happen that way... she can see it, be surprised, and love it. Or she can see it and say ''ohh its kinda nice but can we return it and get something else. =P I''m willing to take that risk haha
 
Are you definitely set on that particular setting? Because if your after something with a vintage feel this LM ring is well within your budget, platinum and houses what looks like a beautiful old mine cut diamond :).

http://www.artofplatinum.com/4images/details.php?image_id=320

If you are disregard that link :), just thought I would through another option out there :).
 
I''m sure that she''ll love whatever you give her
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It''s really nice that you''re taking so much care in surprising her and finding something great for her. I can''t help you much on custom settings but any girl would be thrilled to have their guy put that much effort into their ring and their proposal
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Good luck!
 
Date: 7/17/2008 11:53:51 AM
Author: Deelight
Are you definitely set on that particular setting? Because if your after something with a vintage feel this LM ring is well within your budget, platinum and houses what looks like a beautiful old mine cut diamond :).

http://www.artofplatinum.com/4images/details.php?image_id=320

If you are disregard that link :), just thought I would through another option out there :).
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Deelight - thanks for the suggestion. Actually I think I stumbled upon that page earlier somehow too. I''m not 100% set on my setting, but I don''t really like the AOP setting b/c of the circle of small diamonds around the top of the main stone. Makes it too bulky for my taste =/ plus my gf is little and that''d probably look too big on her hand haha
thanks though! =D
 
Your welcome :), thought I would throw it out there :).
 
I love the the edwardian setting you''ve chosen, and congratulations on getting engaged. Getting white gold would indeed allow you to put more money towards the stone. The setting you like holds a 5.5 mm stone -- but you could have the whole setting scaled slightly smaller to accomodate the size diamond your budget allows for. Getting an eyeclean SI1 and going as low as I/J color in a wellcut stone will allow you to get a larger diamond as well, an excellent cut will face up white in some lower color diamonds. In rare cases you can drop the clarity down to I1 if the inclusion can be hidden beneath a prong and does not threaten the integrity of the stone.
 
for the type of setting I''ve shown, which has a few small design intricacies and details, would it be an issue getting white gold since it has to be replated ?? In my head I''m imagining these smaller details being layered w/ rhodium several times and wouldn''t that "cover them up" or make them less apparent after a while?
 
Date: 7/17/2008 12:35:31 PM
Author: denverboy
for the type of setting I''ve shown, which has a few small design intricacies and details, would it be an issue getting white gold since it has to be replated ?? In my head I''m imagining these smaller details being layered w/ rhodium several times and wouldn''t that ''cover them up'' or make them less apparent after a while?
Click to expand...
from what i can see from the pictures is that there are diamonds on the 3 sides of the shank. from what i have been told, the rhodium does not "stick" to diamonds.. i was worried about that for my own ring...
 
You don''t i> to re-plate white gold all the time. WG comes in different mixes, some are cooler, some are butterier, but all are white. I haven''t had my rings re-plated and they certainly aren''t yellow. Did they used to be whiter? Yes. Are they yellow? Certainly not.

In any case, rhodium is electro-plated, and will only stick to metal, not to your melee, so it shouldn''t be a concern.
 
Date: 7/17/2008 11:20:46 AM
Author: mercoledi
That quote seems about right. White gold will save you some, but it''s hard to guess how much; maybe a few hundred? Have you gotten a quote from WF? They did a similar design that was featured in an article last year. At least then you''d get the PS discount, or if it''s better maybe your B&M will price-match.
Good luck!
Click to expand...
I''d love to see the ring WF made last year. Anybody know where I can find it?
 
Date: 7/17/2008 1:26:42 PM
Author: mercoledi
Phew, found it There are links/pics here. It''s not the same, but similar. Sorry about all of the italics above, I shouldn''t post before coffee.
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Thanks so much! You''re fast!!

I think this is Sarah''s Surprise on their site. I *love* that ring!
 
those rings are pretty nice there =)
on a quick side topic - does anyone know if the diamonds featured on GoodOldGold, whiteflash, or bluenile are conflict free diamonds?
 
I really think the last one is a good match, though I prefer the basket on the ebay one.

Here''s a recent thread about conflict diamonds and the Kimberly process in the US. Skip to Jon''s posts for the most info. It''s a personal decision, but most diamonds sold legally in the US aren''t terribly conflicted.
 
Date: 7/17/2008 12:43:12 PM
Author: mercoledi
You don''t to re-plate white gold all the time. WG comes in different mixes, some are cooler, some are butterier, but all are white. I haven''t had my rings re-plated and they certainly aren''t yellow. Did they used to be whiter? Yes. Are they yellow? Certainly not.

In any case, rhodium is electro-plated, and will only stick to metal, not to your melee, so it shouldn''t be a concern.
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mercoledi, you''re so helpful its ridiculous =D

so from that last link setting link you posted I learned the term for the "details" im talking about - milgrain edges! those edge details are what I was "worrying" about. what do you mean by "melee"?
 
Melee are the tiny stones set in the band.
 
The milgraining will not be adversely effected by rhodium plating either. Electro-plating adds a layer of metal that is literally atoms thick; it won't gunk up your setting's milgrain or engraving. Milgrain will naturally wear down over time, but you can either take that as a mark of how much your lady wears her ring, or have it re-done occasionally.

One caveat, really nice milgrain is hard to replicate, so if you want it to always be sharp, build a relationship with someone who does it well.
 
Since she doesn''t want to rhodium plate, you might want to consider working with a jeweler who uses palladium. Palladiums is light weight like whitegold, but behaves like platinum in that it''s more of a natural silvery color and doesn''t need to be rhodium plated, it requires polishing like platinum. It''s priced quite a bit less than platinum usually.

I also like the idea of focusing on the center stone for now and then going with her to pick out the setting later. I wouldn''t go all out on a platinum setting and up getting a smaller stone.
 
Date: 7/17/2008 3:07:16 PM
Author: mercoledi
The milgraining will not be adversely effected by rhodium plating either. Electro-plating adds a layer of metal that is literally atoms thick; it won't gunk up your setting's milgrain or engraving. Milgrain will naturally wear down over time, but you can either take that as a mark of how much your lady wears her ring, or have it re-done occasionally.

One caveat, really nice milgrain is hard to replicate, so if you want it to always be sharp, build a relationship with someone who does it well.
Click to expand...
Will the milgrain deatils wear down less on platinum?

I'm going to try and visit a few stores next weekend... should I just simply try and look at their various peices closely to see how well they do details/milgraining? Any other tips/tricks to identify good vs bad workmanship other than just LOOKING at what looks good and bad?
 
you might check out beverley k settings..they are very well made, reasonably priced, come in different metals etc...

link to beverley k
 
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