Evaluating Old Cut Stones in Vintage Settings

[kimikocat]

A few days ago, I posted on my search for a wedding band and e-ring. I couldn''t decide between going with an old cut (OMC/OEC/Cushion) or a new cut. (See my other thread here: link...)

If you cruise over to that thread, I''d love your input on the designs posted in that thread, as I think there are a variety of neat options on the table!)

I am looking at a variety of vintage e-rings/wedding sets, and realized that I could use some help figuring out how to evaluate the quality of an OEC/OMC that''s already set. Most vendors give a rough idea of the stone''s color/clarity, but not so much about the cut quality.

I don''t mind a low color, I''d have better clarity. For me, a nice cut is the most important thing.

So how can I tell if a stone is "nice" or not? What should I look for? What are the marks of a well-cut OEC (in the setting)?

Thanks for everyone''s help! This is great fun! Thanks for joining me on my journey.

 

[oldminer]

To obtain a well cut old cut takes more skill and dedication than buying a far more standard modern cut diamond. It takes years to develop a critical eye for cut quality and you must shop and look in person at many diamonds before you begin to understand what it takes to get beauty in an old cut. The beauty in old cuts is a different beauty than in modern cuts. The light comes back in larger, blocky segments whereas modern cuts tend to show needle-like bright elements.

You want to void dead centers and white girdle reflections in the table. You need to look at visual symmetry althoug a compromise in symmetry sometimes is possible. Also, keep in mind that many old cuts have very hin girdles. Be sure you don''t buy one which is damaged before you even wear it.

 

[kimikocat]

Dear David,

Thank you for your thoughtful response. Since I am relatively new to old cuts, would it be best to purchase from a local B&M rather than purchasing online?

We have a few reliable antique/vintage jewelry dealers here (Lang Antiques, Shreve & Co., and a few others), but I seem to have more options if I include vendors from LA and NY (like Singlestone). I''m a little wary of doing this long-distance because I won''t be able to visually inspect the pieces.

Thank you again for your input!

kimiko