Evaluating jadeite (feicui)

[Bookwyrm]

Too much travel, going crazy!
Spent a whole afternoon at Berganza looking at rubies, emeralds and sapphires, but guess what, I am so fussy I left with nothing. My sister came close to buying a ring but paused. It was very funny in Berganza because my sister was putting on all the rings, whereas I was examining them thoroughly before I put them on. The difference was not lost on the staff
Flat top jadeite doesn't glow as much as cabs. It may seem brighter if cut thinner. Cabs are cut to show off that glow! However, flat tops can look very smart too.
There was an example in this thread earlier that I shared - the emerald shaped ring that @Starstruck8 liked.

Post in thread 'Evaluating jadeite (feicui)'

Mar 20, 2025

Thank you for that wonderful post, @Crimson! So much good information.

It's obvious when you think about it (but I hadn't) that if you wear a necklace over a coloured dress, less transparent beads will hold their colour better. Also, that they will show their colour more consistently in varying lighting. It's also obvious that in a single cab you can get absolute top quality, but for a necklace, uniformity is more important and harder to achieve.

Thank you ! I shall post some more photos later. For now, here more info on the jadeite and other valuables of the Soong family...

• Crimson

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The heart-shaped ring below also has a flat top. I almost bought it. It is from On Cheong. It has good colour and size! I hope the photo gives you some idea of the difference between flat and curved tops.



Haha, I don't think would be extreme enough but there are all sorts of scary videos on Wechat showing jade being heated to extremes.

As for prices in Hong Kong, yes, they seem to be lower. However, as you know, buying rare gems isn't like buying diamonds. It isn't a matter of, "Oh, I think this unheated, vivid red Burmese ruby is too expensive, I will just get one from Hong Kong." One might be able to do that with diamonds or more available gems like aquamarine or peridot. But it is not so easy to find equivalents for rarer gems like rubies

Hong Kong has a much wider selection of jade because it is near the mainland and prices tend to be lower than in Singapore. So yes, it probably the best choice.
Having said all that, I don't buy jewellery when I travel. I usually take some time to decide. I also don't want to become the victim of a crime. Last year, I was warned by the Head of jewellery in UK's swankiest store not to buy anything because it might get stolen.

Ooo is Berganza all antique jewellery? It looks like so much fun! I must go check out their website. You go on the most thrilling jewellery adventures!

Thank you for sharing those flat-topped jadeite pieces! I actually quite like the green of the heart (just not the shape) - it does seem brighter!

Hmmmmm do you happen to know any jadeite vendors or stores in Hong Kong? I'll be visiting HK at the end of the year (sadly no Singapore this year) and I can't wait to see all the jewellery there (and maaaybe search for a glassy jadeite piece while I'm at it)! I've heard there's just tonnes of jewellery stores everywhere! I wouldn't know where to start haha

 

[Bookwyrm]

1. Hmm, if internal fissures can only be seen with microscope, that does now give me hesitation in pursuing an antique jade piece at auction. Even at Christie’s/Sotheby’s, it is the responsibility of the bidder/buyer to assure themselves of the condition of the item, and seeing I’m not able to attend these auctions in person nor do I want to lug a microscope (haha!) to one of those auctions even if I was able to attend an auction, it sounds like I would really be taking a big chance when it comes to quality of antique/secondhand jade? Esp if I plan to drop $10000+ USD on an auction?

How do you inspect your jade pieces to ensure they are free of any concerning internal flaws? Or are internal flaws common enough in jade (like fissures in emeralds) that one should make peace with it and only be concerned if it’s a surface reaching flaw?

Oh my gosh, that is frightening...I now have the sudden urge to purchase a microscope (that I wouldn't know how to use lol) and look at my pear jadeite ring under the microscope as the pear does have a couple of darker inclusions along the edges...I sure hope none of them are fractures/fissures! I wonder if those fissures that can only be seen with a microscope would be mentioned by jadeite vendors and auctions at the time of purchase...

Thank you for asking these questions - I'm learning so much from this too!

 

[Bookwyrm]

Hmm what do you guys think of denim blue jadeite?

 

[Crimson]

Hmm what do you guys think of denim blue jadeite?

Instinctive answer - prob from Guatemala?
This is called blue water but the darker material tends to be from Guatemala so should not be too expensive. It is pretty in the photos! However, please check under normal and indoor light as some tend to go very dark indoors.
BTW let me sneak in a comment about ruby here. I didn't want to de-rail the other thread! The new ruby item I bought is something I have been eyeing and that has been put aside for me. I decided to buy it because I have not bought anything in London or Paris - no bags, clothes or big items. Museum pins don't count, right?
So no pics yet but I can tell you it is Burmese, unheated, vivid red.

 

[Crimson]

Ooo is Berganza all antique jewellery? It looks like so much fun! I must go check out their website. You go on the most thrilling jewellery adventures!

Thank you for sharing those flat-topped jadeite pieces! I actually quite like the green of the heart (just not the shape) - it does seem brighter!

Hmmmmm do you happen to know any jadeite vendors or stores in Hong Kong? I'll be visiting HK at the end of the year (sadly no Singapore this year) and I can't wait to see all the jewellery there (and maaaybe search for a glassy jadeite piece while I'm at it)! I've heard there's just tonnes of jewellery stores everywhere! I wouldn't know where to start haha

Yes, Berganza specialises in vintage + antique jewellery. They have the biggest collection in London. So I looked at pieces fr the 1800s to the recent past.
Hong Kong - Ilia has v nice designs.
DeJade is well known,
On Cheong works with Chow Sang Sang and Chow Tai Fook to source jade.
This quaint one sounds interesting https://www.scmp.com/news/people-cu...amily-business-battles-global-turbulence-keep

 

[Crimson]

@Crimson thank you!

1. Hmm, if internal fissures can only be seen with microscope, that does now give me hesitation in pursuing an antique jade piece at auction. Even at Christie’s/Sotheby’s, it is the responsibility of the bidder/buyer to assure themselves of the condition of the item, and seeing I’m not able to attend these auctions in person nor do I want to lug a microscope (haha!) to one of those auctions even if I was able to attend an auction, it sounds like I would really be taking a big chance when it comes to quality of antique/secondhand jade? Esp if I plan to drop $10000+ USD on an auction?

How do you inspect your jade pieces to ensure they are free of any concerning internal flaws? Or are internal flaws common enough in jade (like fissures in emeralds) that one should make peace with it and only be concerned if it’s a surface reaching flaw?

Sorry for all the questions! I’m just starting to wrap my head around jade. I own some unheated sapphires with inclusions and non-perfect SI diamonds, and because they are antique pieces they are a bit knocked about and have surface abrasions, etc, but it would be unthinkable for me to purchase a sapphire or diamond with any internal cracks, so wondering if I should adjust my expectations when it comes to jade.

What’s the difference between internal fissure/cracks vs water line vs cotton line vs root lines in jade? Are they all variations of internal fissures?

2. @mellowyellowgirl Great, sounds like I don’t need to baby it too much—Jade bangles fit quite tight and I’d hate to have to take it off every time I shower or take a bath! A nice jadeite bangle is on my wish list: I’ve been ogling yours and they are lovely!

3. I guess I have “poor” taste in jade since I like carved jade; my wallet rejoices!R

Re: £1 the main thing is to buy from a reputable jeweller who will take care of the checks and perform all the quality control. That is why I buy my jadeite from On Cheong. Their QC is superb and the jadeite passes through many rounds of inspection. Of course I still examine it with a loupe and bright light too,
Root lines are fine. they are not breaks/fissures. so not to worry!

 

[Bookwyrm]

Instinctive answer - prob from Guatemala?
This is called blue water but the darker material tends to be from Guatemala so should not be too expensive. It is pretty in the photos! However, please check under normal and indoor light as some tend to go very dark indoors.
BTW let me sneak in a comment about ruby here. I didn't want to de-rail the other thread! The new ruby item I bought is something I have been eyeing and that has been put aside for me. I decided to buy it because I have not bought anything in London or Paris - no bags, clothes or big items. Museum pins don't count, right?
So no pics yet but I can tell you it is Burmese, unheated, vivid red.

The seller (littlejadeitehouse) was saying it's "extinct" denim blue Burmese jadeite, which was quite surprising. I wouldn't know how to tell the difference between Guatemalan and Burmese, and there's no certificate, but he said it was something to do with the granular structure? He also said it doesn't go dark in indoor lighting (thank you for th reminder to ask <3), but didn't send a video, so I guess I'll have to take his word for it I'm honestly not too sure if I'll get it...the one on the very right in the pictures I posted is the only one available to me, and it appears a bit lighter than the others.

Oh my gosh, I can't wait to see your new ruby item! Burmese...unheated...vivid red!!! The dream! I would love to see a family picture of all your ruby pieces some day if you have the time!

 

[Bookwyrm]

Yes, Berganza specialises in vintage + antique jewellery. They have the biggest collection in London. So I looked at pieces fr the 1800s to the recent past.
Hong Kong - Ilia has v nice designs.
DeJade is well known,
On Cheong works with Chow Sang Sang and Chow Tai Fook to source jade.
This quaint one sounds interesting https://www.scmp.com/news/people-cu...amily-business-battles-global-turbulence-keep

Thank you for the recommendations! I'll check them out tomorrow!

Root lines are fine. they are not breaks/fissures. so not to worry!

Just curious, what's the difference between root lines and fissures? Would the small darker patches along the right side my pear be considered root lines? They appear kind of greyish in certain lightings, like an impurity or something...I was told they don't affect the structural durability so I hope they're nothing too serious. They're not noticeable unless I look closely, so they generally don't bother me too much.