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Engagement Ring Project: The Blurple Edition

etherealhav0c

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jul 7, 2020
Messages
8
Hi PSers!

I posted about this blue-purple sapphire I recently purchased from Gary Braun at Finewater Gems in the vendor & owner pics thread and based on @voce's recommendations I am starting a thread to chronicle my engagement ring design journey and get opinions from the knowledgeable PSers here.
IMG_4745.JPG



The sapphire is square with rounded corners (The AGL brief calls it a modified cushion cut) with a step-cut pavilion that is noticeable in person. The face measures about 7x7mm and my ring size is a 5.75. I had a few thoughts on a ring setting but would love to get some opinions on the direction I'm heading.


Things I'm contemplating:
- A vintage/Art Deco inspired setting to play off the step-cuts and square-ish shape of the sapphire
- A platinum ring (I have metal allergies! :( )
- A 5 stone ring with bezel set tapered diamond baguettes flanking the immediate sides of the sapphire followed by bezel set round diamonds. I like the vibe of this Leon Mege setting but was thinking of replacing the marquises with tapered diamond baguettes and maybe a pointed triangle detail at the narrow end of the baguettes. Thoughts?
r6667 2wx.jpg
- I want something classic but with a twist and don't want to draw too much attention to myself/the ring


Additional Questions:
1) There is a small window that actually is more visible in photos than it is in person. I'm wondering if I should choosing a ring setting like a prong or closed gallery to try and get a bit more light reflected back through the middle? I don't have any other experiences with setting gemstones as this is also my first fine piece of jewelry so I greatly welcome some expertise on this!

2) I have also been thinking about potentially going the halo direction but am not sure if that'll darken the stone too much or what might match the step-cuts. I want something that will highlight the center stone well and thought that having diamond tapered baguettes on the shoulders would allow the stone's color to pop more while also drawing the eye to the center stone.

3) What do I do about the profile of the ring?! I would love to have some kind of special detail but keep the setting fairly low profile. The profile of the Leon Mege ring looks like this so I've been thinking about ways to add a geometric or architectural element (in keeping with the Art Deco inspiration) to maybe the basket/prong and/or some hand engraving along the front/back. I feel like the possibilities are endless and I'd love to hear your ideas!

r6667 7wx.jpg


Thanks everyone!
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
3,971
Oh yes! I forgot. I'll be working with our local jeweler in Seattle, Joseph Jewelry, to make the ring setting.
He CADs, right? Do you sketch?
 

Arcadian

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Messages
7,484
First: thats a hell of a stone, its gorgeous, congratulations on your engagement!
The "hole" in the stone....open cullet? If the cullet is open no setting will really close it.

I would not have a closed basket for cleaning purposes.
 

etherealhav0c

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jul 7, 2020
Messages
8
He CADs, right? Do you sketch?
Yes! CAD and then renders the CAD to a more realistic visualization and then a wax mold after that. I do sketch! Would that make more sense for me to try and sketch my design thoughts? Let me see if I can get to drawing what I'm thinking later today and posting it...

First: thats a hell of a stone, its gorgeous, congratulations on your engagement!
The "hole" in the stone....open cullet? If the cullet is open no setting will really close it.

I would not have a closed basket for cleaning purposes.
Thank you! I don't believe that it's an open culet and is a small window that was disclosed to be a small window by Gary Braun when we talked about it. It's not very noticeable in person unless I hold it up to the light to look through, but didn't know if setting it in a prong or something with an enclosed silvery bottom would help reflect light through the center a bit more?

I wrapped the stone in a bit of aluminum foil to see what would happen (there are two photos of that in the collage top left corner) and it does seem to reflect a bit more light back through the center with the bit of shiny material behind it. Good to know about the closed basket!
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
3,971
Thank you! I don't believe that it's an open culet and is a small window that was disclosed to be a small window by Gary Braun when we talked about it. It's not very noticeable in person unless I hold it up to the light to look through, but didn't know if setting it in a prong or something with an enclosed silvery bottom would help reflect light through the center a bit more?

I wrapped the stone in a bit of aluminum foil to see what would happen (there are two photos of that in the collage top left corner) and it does seem to reflect a bit more light back through the center with the bit of shiny material behind it. Good to know about the closed basket!
IMG_20200805_123312.jpg IMG_20200805_123335.jpg
770374

If it were me, I'd want to go with something like this to enclose the sapphire but still have the ability to clean it. This chrysoberyl ring is set with beads with faux bezels around the stone. The faux bezels cover the gem completely so no light enters from the sides while it is worn on the hand. However, it's completely open on the bottom to allow for cleaning. I think something like this would help to close the window. You would have plenty of metal on the sides/gallery to engrave a more architectural effect.

When my fiance and I went into a Tiffany's, I preferred the cushion and step cuts because they weren't as brilliant and in-your-face. Doing a halo would be drawing more attention to the center stone if that's what you want. I don't think a halo would darken your stone.
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
3,971

For eye candy, here's a cushion blue sapphire from Harry Winston with tapered baguette sides. You can start with something like this or with Leon Mege's design, and then add your own touches to personalize the design. In particular, I think the basket/gallery is an area where things can get very interesting.

As an example, I'm quoting myself to show you the gallery I designed for my halo sapphire 3-stone.
Here's two of mine. Folks who frequent the CS forums are probably tired of seeing this a million times. The ruby halo ring is romantic because it's my engagement ring and very apropos to VD colors.

The blue sapphire ring is more subtle. It's a custom design by me. The kite diamonds represent DF giving me wings to fly, and in the gallery of this ring are cat ears under the sapphire halo and fish under the kite diamonds. The cat ears symbolize me, a Leo, and the fish symbolize DF, a Pisces. There's a surprise diamond between the cat ears to symbolize that I'm a princess cat (to him). These are all nicknames we have for each other.

IMG_20200205_134622.jpg IMG_20200205_134611.jpg
 

Arcadian

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Messages
7,484
Yes! CAD and then renders the CAD to a more realistic visualization and then a wax mold after that. I do sketch! Would that make more sense for me to try and sketch my design thoughts? Let me see if I can get to drawing what I'm thinking later today and posting it...



Thank you! I don't believe that it's an open culet and is a small window that was disclosed to be a small window by Gary Braun when we talked about it. It's not very noticeable in person unless I hold it up to the light to look through, but didn't know if setting it in a prong or something with an enclosed silvery bottom would help reflect light through the center a bit more?

I wrapped the stone in a bit of aluminum foil to see what would happen (there are two photos of that in the collage top left corner) and it does seem to reflect a bit more light back through the center with the bit of shiny material behind it. Good to know about the closed basket!

OK cool, I wasn't for sure what the deal was but did want to FYI you on open cullets in case you didn't know.

So Imma get personal. I have a closed bottomed ring. I barely wear it because if I do, it means that dirt, gunk, funky condensation from past cleanings, and god knows what else gets caught in there and getting it out makes for a not so lovely experience.

If you plan on EVER cleaning it (lol) you need to make sure you leave a way to do this. You will thank yourself later.
 

meely

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
1,029
I love your stone what a STUNNING color!
I wouldn’t focus on that window too much, it really doesn’t look too bad and the stone
makes up for it in more ways than one.
I love your Art Deco idea I think that could be amazing.
E62E3281-D1CC-4F1D-8E14-B5E259D2B09C.jpeg 5D2F32AF-3A22-4492-9531-87BBCA95834F.jpeg 682EE15B-360C-4950-A3CD-F590B9DB44B3.jpeg B114B486-6069-4BC1-B882-F6C391FD7CCB.jpeg
Here are some ideas I am thinking you will be a no to a halo but couldn’t help myself.
 

etherealhav0c

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jul 7, 2020
Messages
8

For eye candy, here's a cushion blue sapphire from Harry Winston with tapered baguette sides. You can start with something like this or with Leon Mege's design, and then add your own touches to personalize the design. In particular, I think the basket/gallery is an area where things can get very interesting.

As an example, I'm quoting myself to show you the gallery I designed for my halo sapphire 3-stone.
I LOVE that Harry Winston setting! And the gallery on your ring looks so beautiful. For some reason I seem so charmed by the idea of tapered side baguettes and double tapered claw prongs but definitely want to be able to clean my ring often and get all the gunk out.

OK cool, I wasn't for sure what the deal was but did want to FYI you on open cullets in case you didn't know.

So Imma get personal. I have a closed bottomed ring. I barely wear it because if I do, it means that dirt, gunk, funky condensation from past cleanings, and god knows what else gets caught in there and getting it out makes for a not so lovely experience.

If you plan on EVER cleaning it (lol) you need to make sure you leave a way to do this. You will thank yourself later.
@Arcadian's advice is super helpful! So I'd love to get some thoughts on the cleaning/maintenance of something like this cathedral with prong setting: Custom-Diamond-and-Hand-Engraved-Engagement-Ring-W-front-102445.jpg

versus something maybe more like this open basket?
IMG_4630.JPG

I had perhaps erroneously been under the assumption that the prong style of setting with open front/back would be easier to maintain/clean than the open basket (depending on filigree/intricacy) but having never owned rings similar to either I'd love to hear your experiences!
 

etherealhav0c

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jul 7, 2020
Messages
8
I love your stone what a STUNNING color!
I wouldn’t focus on that window too much, it really doesn’t look too bad and the stone
makes up for it in more ways than one.
I love your Art Deco idea I think that could be amazing.
E62E3281-D1CC-4F1D-8E14-B5E259D2B09C.jpeg 5D2F32AF-3A22-4492-9531-87BBCA95834F.jpeg 682EE15B-360C-4950-A3CD-F590B9DB44B3.jpeg B114B486-6069-4BC1-B882-F6C391FD7CCB.jpeg
Here are some ideas I am thinking you will be a no to a halo but couldn’t help myself.
Thank you! I agree. I'm beginning to think I shouldn't bother worrying about the small window since I honestly don't even notice it unless I'm staring at photos that are super zoomed in and there's no movement of the stone.

Ohhh I actually really like the last setting you posted (although all are very beautiful!). There was a similar sort of setting that had caught my eye as I was following an antique jeweler:

95246-20200727-6919.png
95246-20200727-1418.png



I think for the face down look, I'm drawn to geometric shapes framing the center stone to continue down the Art Deco inspired path and potentially some wheat or geometric engraving along the shank (TBD). I like the idea of a bezel around the center sapphire and had been hesitant about looking at bezels before because I was afraid of darkening the stone (but perhaps an irrational naive fear!)
 

meely

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
1,029
Thank you! I agree. I'm beginning to think I shouldn't bother worrying about the small window since I honestly don't even notice it unless I'm staring at photos that are super zoomed in and there's no movement of the stone.

Ohhh I actually really like the last setting you posted (although all are very beautiful!). There was a similar sort of setting that had caught my eye as I was following an antique jeweler:

95246-20200727-6919.png
95246-20200727-1418.png



I think for the face down look, I'm drawn to geometric shapes framing the center stone to continue down the Art Deco inspired path and potentially some wheat or geometric engraving along the shank (TBD). I like the idea of a bezel around the center sapphire and had been hesitant about looking at bezels before because I was afraid of darkening the stone (but perhaps an irrational naive fear!)
I like your inspiration photo. I think this ring is going to turn out beautifully!

Bezels or wide tab prongs are both very deco. Or @voce idea with the faux bezel would also look amazing.

I think you could bezel whilst having some gaps to allow light to come in at the sides. I have a blue sapphire that is bezelled like that to prevent it from going too dark. But your stone is far better cut than mine so I suspect it going dark would not be a huge issue anyway.
 
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