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Engagement ring - pavé prong and prong security questions

jkonst

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 4, 2019
Messages
26
Hi all,

I have a diamond being crafted at High Performance Diamonds (2.58ct G VS2), that will be ready in a couple weeks. I'm also working on a setting with them (not necessarily tied to HPD doing the setting, but it seems easier that way), and two questions have come up. Any input here would be most appreciated! I'm currently looking at a setting similar to another one that was posted here recently (also an HPD design):

hpd1.png hpd2.png

  • Does anyone have experience with pavé on the prongs of a setting? I really like the style of the Victor Canera and Tiffany rings below, but HPD is strongly recommending I don't add pavé to the prongs for durability reasons. That seems reasonable to me, but I'd also love to hear any real world experience. It seems like they can't be that bad durability-wise given how many places are selling designs with pavé prongs, but if it means treating the ring extremely gently all the time then it's probably not worth it in my case. HPD is fine with the "under-halo" shown above, FYI, given it would be more protected.
https://victorcanera.com/rings/engagement/pave-four-prong-solitaire
https://www.tiffany.com/engagement/engagement-rings/pave-tiffany-setting-engagement-ring-with-a-pav-diamond-band-in-platinum-GRP10877/
https://www.brilliantearth.com/Valencia-Diamond-Ring-(1/3-ct.-tw.)-White-Gold-BE1D940-2344346
  • HPD is also recommending I go with double claw prongs (planning on 4 prongs currently) for security because of the size of the center stone. I don't love the look of double claws, though. Any thoughts on alternatives here? If I could choose, I'd go with prongs similar to the Tiffany design below (are those "tabby claws?"). Does that just mean I'd need 6 prongs rather than 4?
Thanks for any advice!

vc pave.PNG tiffany pave.PNG be pave.PNG vc2.jpg
 

carbonfan

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 12, 2015
Messages
741
Congratulations on a gorgeous choice of stone and setting! If you are planning to wear a wedding band with your engagement ring then it is best to avoid pavé in the prongs as it can eat away at any adjacent bands. I have never had pavé in the prongs or donut of my engagement ring for this reason, and I actually prefer the contrast of the pavé donut next to the shiny polished prongs; it is a really nice look! If you decide to go with pavé prongs, at the very least you will need to wear a spacer band between your e-ring and your wedding band for protection, although I cannot attest to how effective this is as I have never tried it with pavé prongs.

With regard to single- vs. double-claw prongs, I have had both, and they can both be incredibly beautiful, but obviously a lot of it is personal preference. Double-claw prongs would seem to add more security (after all there are 8 prongs rather than 4), but they are notably thinner and each pair is attached to each other, so I am not sure if they are that much more secure than four standard claw prongs. In terms of security, the safest choice is likely six prongs, but I really think you will be safe with four prongs (either single or double claw). Keep us posted on what you decide; that is going to be one jaw-droppingly gorgeous ring!
 

cokitty

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jun 5, 2011
Messages
1,248
What about something like this? Locke isnt around any more but I loved the head on this ring. Wearing it with a band I never had any issues and I think it could easily be done with four prongs instead of 6. I liked the prongs on this one, as they never gave me any trouble.



 

Morenita21

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Nov 16, 2018
Messages
451
Hi,
My previous engagement ring had a hidden halo between the prongs in 18kt white gold. I never had any of the melee come out. With that being said, I was told that platinum will secure the melee (small pave diamonds) better than white gold. Also, my current ring has tons of different sizes of melee and diamonds (see my avatar) in a platinum head and I haven’t had any issues. You do of course have to check at least once a year to make sure everything is secure. Don’t know if that helps you. The rings you have posted are all beautiful and go with what makes your heart sing.
 

Morenita21

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Nov 16, 2018
Messages
451
654EEF5A-1A05-4D41-9F23-F7F947FB3862.png
Hi,
My previous engagement ring had a hidden halo between the prongs in 18kt white gold. I never had any of the melee come out. With that being said, I was told that platinum will secure the melee (small pave diamonds) better than white gold. Also, my current ring has tons of different sizes of melee and diamonds (see my avatar) in a platinum head and I haven’t had any issues. You do of course have to check at least once a year to make sure everything is secure. Don’t know if that helps you. The rings you have posted are all beautiful and go with what makes your heart sing.
Here’s a side view of all the diamonds around:
 

carbonfan

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 12, 2015
Messages
741
FBD2F57B-59D9-4868-BF2D-AB4D002E9A8F.png Victor Canera has some incredible handmade settings. See the quality of his work on Instagram.

This one in particular highlights a large, very fine stone such as yours without drawing the eye away from the center stone. Simplicity is the epitome of elegance. The Jocelyn.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bkf5AT-greS/
This is an amazing setting; I actually have a cathedral version of it. I absolutely adore the scalloped basket, and the profile is TDF! :love: I could go on and on about Victor's work; it is over the top!
 

jkonst

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 4, 2019
Messages
26
Thank you all so much. The settings you have shown me/wear are gorgeous! I've been in touch with the Victor Canera team over the past week and they've been a bit hesitant about working on an engagement ring without me also purchasing a diamond through them. But I love their work, and may see if I can make that happen. I'll lean away from pave on the prongs, and will see if I can make a four prong design work. Any other input is of course welcomed!
 

cflutist

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Messages
3,873
A 2.58 is a sizable diamond.

I personally would listen to Layla or Melissa and do 6 or double-4 prongs.
Wink has told me in the past that 8 of 10 losses were from 4-prong mountings.

I sat through 3 hours of orchestra rehearsal with a 2.05 D-VS2 diamond in my pocket because I didn't listen to a local jeweler at the time. My diamond fell out of a 4-prong mounting when someone slammed a door in my hand.

For myself now, it is always 6 prongs for diamonds over 2 cts (unless it is in a halo like HPD Queen Pari).

3-prong mountings for sidestones on a 3-stone ring also make me nervous.

Good luck with whatever you decide.
You will love your CBI diamond.
 

Strawberries1

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Messages
120
A 2.58 is a sizable diamond.

I personally would listen to Layla or Melissa and do 6 or double-4 prongs.
Wink has told me in the past that 8 of 10 losses were from 4-prong mountings.

I sat through 3 hours of orchestra rehearsal with a 2.05 D-VS2 diamond in my pocket because I didn't listen to a local jeweler at the time. My diamond fell out of a 4-prong mounting when someone slammed a door in my hand.

For myself now, it is always 6 prongs for diamonds over 2 cts (unless it is in a halo like HPD Queen Pari).

3-prong mountings for sidestones on a 3-stone ring also make me nervous.

Good luck with whatever you decide.
You will love your CBI diamond.
Would you say a 1.5 carat oval should have 6 prongs too? Jeweler recommends 4 saying it woun't look nice if 6.
 

cflutist

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Messages
3,873
Would you say a 1.5 carat oval should have 6 prongs too? Jeweler recommends 4 saying it woun't look nice if 6.
Your call on that one, but if you do decide to do 6, I think that it looks prettier with prongs at 1, 3 ,5 then 7, 9 and 11 (what I did when I had the diamond reset) verses
Noon, 2 ,4, then 6, 8 and 10. Prongs at noon and 6 change the outline of the oval that your eyes perceive.
 

Strawberries1

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Messages
120
Your call on that one, but if you do decide to do 6, I think that it looks prettier with prongs at 1, 3 ,5 then 7, 9 and 11 (what I did when I had the diamond reset) verses
Noon, 2 ,4, then 6, 8 and 10. Prongs at noon and 6 change the outline of the oval that your eyes perceive.
I felt the 4 prong squared the oval a bit. So at 12 and 6 won't elongate it and narrow it out?
 

rockysalamander

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 20, 2016
Messages
5,022
Historically, pave was reserved for rings with limited wear. IT was applied to special occasion pieces and often involved much more metal than present. The setting has been adopted for current makers along with a dislike of "seeing any metal." This imposes structural and longevity issues. Some can be compensated for, often by a superb maker, but some are inherent to the setting technique. So, you take risk when you choose certain design elements and techniques.

Pave on the prongs is fundamentally less strong. You are taking a solid piece of metal and drilling a bunch of holes in it to hold the diamonds. Often, you have to thicken the metal to help avoid this, which can take away from the presently preferred "delicate" look. Also, the prongs of a setting take a huge beating during wear. They are what will hit doors, windows, books...you name it. So, adding tiny diamonds to them adds significantly to the maintenance and scratchiness on delicate skin if you will wear this for more than just casual wear. Finally, pave on the prongs makes tightening the prongs (if you catch one) nearly impossible.

Four typical prongs add to the risk of losing the diamond. You bend one and the diamond can be gone. I really recommend 6 prongs on anything over 1 carat. I would spend some time looking at vintage rings and study the prongs. You could look at "triple toe" prongs. I'm a work and can't search for photos, but this style might work for you.

So, I totally 100% agree with Wink and @cflutist and others here who discourage the use of pave on the prongs.

Double prongs can vary widely in how separate the toes are and how pointy. They can change the look entirely. The toes can look long and skinny or more angular.
 
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