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Emerald Cut Diamond for Engagement Ring Advice

RockyMountain279

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 17, 2020
Messages
7
Hi!

I'm in the process of selecting a diamond for an engagement ring. My girlfriend has requested an emerald cut and given me some rough guidelines: approximately 1 carat, D-G color, eye clean, natural diamond with GIA grading. She's looking for a white-gold setting. I'll likely either be choosing a simple solitaire setting or another setting with some small stones flanking the main diamond.

Being completely new to the world of diamonds, I've been doing some research in what to do look for, and was super thrilled to find PriceScope!

I'm presently thinking of this stone on James Allen, I've got it on hold while I gather some advice. = )

The stone is a 0.9 carat, G-color, IF, Excellent polish and symmetry with a faint florescence and a 1.38 ratio. It has a 65% table, depth of 65%, no cutlet, and has a slightly thick - thick girdle. Price is $2,940

Main (possible concerns) I could have would be the color on an emerald cut at this size, but I'm hoping the florescence might balance it out, possibly the girdle size, and possibly the ratio, although it's close to what I was looking for (1.4 to 1.5). Or--of course something else about the stone that I may be too novice to realize yet!

From the spin around, I like the look of the stone myself.

Any thoughts or advice on the stone would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much!
 
Last edited:

foxinsox

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 18, 2015
Messages
3,010
I am not remotely an expert but I’m not sure that what’s going on in the middle is quite right. The nicest emerald cuts have the steps light up in sequence as you turn them. This one looks like the outside facets step properly but the middle ones just go on or off together.
Tagging some of the proper step-cut experts who will know if this is a good one of not. @whitewave @Karl_K @Matthews1127
 

headlight

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Nov 2, 2003
Messages
2,051
Have you considered going to something less than IF to get into the colorless range? Yes, you need to go higher on clarity with step cuts than brilliants, but IF is overkill, especially in that size. I have an emerald cut in approx same size in VS2 and it’s beautiful. So I’m not saying you should go down to VS2, but there’s some room between that and IF where I think you could bump up to the higher color which will really be impactful. You also could possibly get closer to her 1 ct., depending on where you go with your clarity and color.
 

RockyMountain279

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 17, 2020
Messages
7
Thanks for the feedback!

Yes, this one just happens to be IF. I don't mind going down to VS1 or VS2. Mostly my aim is eye clean--and to be honest, I'm not even sure how much very small flaws will be noticeable outside of a loop or very close inspection.

Interesting @foxinsox--I'm not as much familiar with the ideal step pattern in emeralds. I'll see what else I can find on that topic. Thanks for the heads up.

I've been hunting around on the PriceScope using the tool here (I set the range a little wider on size 0.7 to 1.2 just to potentially catch some edge cases) this is what I got for returns. That stone happened to catch my eye. I'd like to stay somewhere in the current price ballpark but can go up or down a little if needed. There's another on the list that's 0.9 VVS2 that's just a tad more but is an E, though it's aspect is starting to fall away from what I'd heard was ideal.

Currently the 1's seem to jump quite a bit more in price (which I've read is part of them being a full round "1").

At around 1 carat, ideally I will get a better color presentation if I can step up from G? G seems to be a bit borderline for this size in an emerald.
 

headlight

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Nov 2, 2003
Messages
2,051
You will need to play around with how your budget can fit in various size/clarity/color combos. Yes, 1 ct. is the magic # for the price jump/carat.
 

Garry H (Cut Nut)

Super_Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Aug 15, 2000
Messages
14,893
Should we remove the vendor cut grades from PS search? They are rather meaningless as apart from AGS - GIA does not give cut grades and AGS gets very few fancy shapes and their cut grades are not to mine or some others liking's.

OP - suggest you focus on VS1-2 and F+
Had a quick look and there are interesting nice stones out there. But don't try to low ball as the nicer looking stones do generally cost more.
And be careful with spread.
BTW JA and some others will have or get ASET photos for you
 

tyty333

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
21,404
The stone you picked is not good. The center is almost doing nothing.

You want to see

-the steps lighting up/going dark (*bonus if they step in order but this is rare)
-facets where light/dark actually "step in" instead of sliding in
-steps that are relatively the same size
-obviously, nice shape/outline

Dont want to see
-not too many steps on or off at the same time
-multiple side-by-side steps lighting up/going dark at the same time (because then it looks like one big step)
 

diamondsR4eVR

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Dec 8, 2019
Messages
439
I’m not an expert but I love EC. We almost bought one for my ER as I’m newly engaged, but I just know from experience they tend to look smaller than their carat weight. I still love them tho! GL!
 

diamondsR4eVR

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Dec 8, 2019
Messages
439
Thank you, as I say I hate that I love square and rectangle shapes because of the face up issue!!
I know! For awhile prior to getting engaged I really thought it was going to be EC and I was excited to have a unique stone. MRB dominate in my circle but they faced up like .50. I wanted some presence since I think this is my forever ring.
 

whitewave

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Feb 29, 2012
Messages
9,356
I know! For awhile prior to getting engaged I really thought it was going to be EC and I was excited to have a unique stone. MRB dominate in my circle but they faced up like .50. I wanted some presence since I think this is my forever ring.
Exactly.
 

headlight

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Nov 2, 2003
Messages
2,051
I have an emerald cut as a pendant in a custom halo. Here are the specs and all I can tell you is that it is gorgeous (although I am color sensitive and a color snob lol so I would prefer it be higher but that has not detracted from its beauty). It is a GIA graded stone. The stone is absolutely 100% clean to the naked eye with a pleasing shape. I will try to capture a photo later today. Mine is a square shape which appealed to me when I bought this stone... it was a random purchase, basically just catching my eye, so I wasn't looking particularly for an emerald when I bought it. Back to shape appeal, this is important. My stone is not considered the ideal in proportions for an emerald cut if you look at various "charts"... although, interestingly, it was appraised by an AGS Certified Gemologist Appraiser (which is the highest and most respected level of appraisers and, no, the stone was not purchased from this appraiser so there was no bias in his estimation). He appraised it as being of Excellent make as to cut. So go figure. With fancy cuts, you need to get what appeals to you, in a color you can live with, and of high enough clarity that will yield eye-clean.
 

Attachments

RockyMountain279

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 17, 2020
Messages
7
Wow, okay! Thanks for all the fantastic feedback everyone and example posts--definately some great info for me to keep looking. =)2

There was mention that ECs "face up small" -- is this saying that they tend to look like a smaller carat weight then they actually are?

Will many online vendors provide videos or 360 videos on request? I assume that (or viewing in person) would be the only way to see the step patterns, right?

Thanks again!
 

Matthews1127

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 7, 2017
Messages
4,528
Thank you for the tag, @foxinsox!
OP, this is the dreaded “dead center”....

298B7DB9-CF79-4F67-A967-E9967EB02C2B.png
While, at this angle, it appears bright, the steps are motionless. This stone will be all on, and all off, with no life in the center.
What you need to look for:
Step pattern...like a staircase...from the table to the center, and from center to the table. Each step lighting & dimming to the next.
IF is unnecessary, and you’re putting $$$ into what you can’t see.
G color in this size range is perfectly white, even for a step cut.
I’m the proud owner of a perfectly eye clean 1.07 G SI2 EC.
Thread:

Play with color, clarity & carat grades with your budget. You just might get as lucky as my DH did!!

suggestions to investigate:




When you decide you are interested in 1 or more options, place them on HOLD, and request ASET and IS images of each.
Certs are fine to search for potential stones, but further examination is necessary to make a decision, narrow your selection, and find the right one for you.
If any of the options I posted catch your eye, reach out to the vendor, and request more visual aid assistance to really help you determine how each performs.
In the meantime, I’ll search JA, and other vendors for more considerations....
 

RockyMountain279

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 17, 2020
Messages
7
Thank you so much for the great examples Matthews1127! Those look great!

So as a general rule when I am looking at a diamond online, how critical is it to get additional media like ASET photos? So far on the diamonds I've inquired about, the vendors haven't been able to supply them.
 

Matthews1127

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 7, 2017
Messages
4,528
Thank you so much for the great examples Matthews1127! Those look great!

So as a general rule when I am looking at a diamond online, how critical is it to get additional media like ASET photos? So far on the diamonds I've inquired about, the vendors haven't been able to supply them.
Step cuts are fancy cuts.
All visual aids, outside of certs, and still photos are vital to the consumer. Videos, at different angles, in different lighting environments, and different backgrounds, along with ASET images are extremely useful, when purchasing online. Ultimately, in-person evaluation is best, but that only occurs with a good return policy. Once you receive the stone, with a good return policy, you can observe the stone in the expected lighting environments, and get up close & personal with the diamond to tell if it performs as you expect.
Without additional visual info, you are purchasing blindly.
 

RockyMountain279

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 17, 2020
Messages
7
Excellent, thanks for the additional info!

I've tried contacting several of the vendors such as Adiamor and James Allen for additional photos, videos, ASET images, etc. So far for the stones I've asked about, no one has been able to provide any additional photos.

One of the representatives at Adiamor however said that they could provide some additional high res videos and images if I were to purchase a stone first--they said they could hold it and take photos (although no ASET images) and if I wasn't happy with it, I could cancel and refund.

Is this a typical process? Or am I better off if I keep looking/inquiring for stones that do have those additional supporting images?

Thanks again for all the help. : )
 

Matthews1127

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 7, 2017
Messages
4,528
Excellent, thanks for the additional info!

I've tried contacting several of the vendors such as Adiamor and James Allen for additional photos, videos, ASET images, etc. So far for the stones I've asked about, no one has been able to provide any additional photos.

One of the representatives at Adiamor however said that they could provide some additional high res videos and images if I were to purchase a stone first--they said they could hold it and take photos (although no ASET images) and if I wasn't happy with it, I could cancel and refund.

Is this a typical process? Or am I better off if I keep looking/inquiring for stones that do have those additional supporting images?

Thanks again for all the help. : )
Placing a stone on HOLD before acquiring more info, to my knowledge, is routine procedure.
Some vendors do not have their stones in-house, which makes it more difficult for them to provide certain images, such as ASET & IS images.
The fact that you are able to get more videos of at least one of the stones is positive. If you are interested in that stone, place it on hold, and request what they can give you.
Post here & we can help you.
In the meantime, I have to ask if you are open to vintage cut EC’s, or antique styles like square EC’s.
Not sure if the intended is familiar with the difference, but it will open new doors, and expand your options...and vendors.
 

Matthews1127

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 7, 2017
Messages
4,528
Introducing Brian Gavin’s exclusive line of IDEAL CUT EC’s.
Premium price for premium performance; they are the first IDEAL CUT Emerald Cut diamonds to hit the market.
This is beautiful, over 1ct., but not sure if the price is within your budget.
Keep in mind, Ideal Cut diamonds face up larger, have excellent spread, and out-perform their competition because they are cut to ideal standards.

 

Matthews1127

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 7, 2017
Messages
4,528
Another reputable vendor:

 

RockyMountain279

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 17, 2020
Messages
7
Thanks for the recent info!

For Adiamor to get additional images on the ECs posted above, the hold is a purchase (though I can thankfully get a refund if I dislike the additional photos). If I get some additional photos on anything I'm considering, I will definitely post them here.

I wasn't aware of the various vintage cuts. It was fun to see some new cuts I hadn't heard about. A vintage EC could work, though I know she does want a rectangular cut (vs a square).

That Brian Gavin diamond is very beautiful, but I think it might be beyond my budget. Is his line the only source of ideal ECs? I assume the price here reflects how well-cut the diamond is? I love all the info that they post with it.

Do you have a range you recommend for the depth and table? I'd read that in ECs I want to go about 60-65% depth and 61-68% table. Does that sound right and how important are those factors vs the others various characteristics?
 

Matthews1127

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 7, 2017
Messages
4,528
Thanks for the recent info!

For Adiamor to get additional images on the ECs posted above, the hold is a purchase (though I can thankfully get a refund if I dislike the additional photos). If I get some additional photos on anything I'm considering, I will definitely post them here.

I wasn't aware of the various vintage cuts. It was fun to see some new cuts I hadn't heard about. A vintage EC could work, though I know she does want a rectangular cut (vs a square).

That Brian Gavin diamond is very beautiful, but I think it might be beyond my budget. Is his line the only source of ideal ECs? I assume the price here reflects how well-cut the diamond is? I love all the info that they post with it.

Do you have a range you recommend for the depth and table? I'd read that in ECs I want to go about 60-65% depth and 61-68% table. Does that sound right and how important are those factors vs the others various characteristics?
Those are recommended depth & table percentages, but not ALWAYS what work best.
Step cuts are fancy cuts, and there are beautiful stones out there that have wonky numbers on certification.
This is why it’s so important to have as much visual aid assistance to evaluate each individual stone as possible.
Fancy cuts are all about how the angles & percentages compliment each other; not necessarily how precise they are, as in rounds.
Step cuts are tricky, so, you may be surprised at what you find.
 

Matthews1127

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 7, 2017
Messages
4,528
That Brian Gavin diamond is very beautiful, but I think it might be beyond my budget. Is his line the only source of ideal ECs? I assume the price here reflects how well-cut the diamond is? I love all the info that they post with it.

BG released his line of Ideal Cut EC’s just within the past 2-3 years. His, to my knowledge, are the only Ideal cut modern EC’s on the market, at this time.
Jonathan at August Vintage, Inc. began working on Ideal Cut Vintage EC’s, first using Moissanite. He has perfected his craft, and does work with customers to create beautiful Vintage EC’s cut to ideal standards. It’s all in your preferences and taste, but neither are surpassed in their craft.
You will pay a premium price for superior craftsmanship, and ideal cut proportions.
I don’t know what your max budget is for both ring and diamond, but I would urge you to consider making the center stone the priority, at this point, and put more money into a setting, later.
A temporary, simple setting will suffice, for now, if you find a stone you just can’t pass up, but eats more of your budget. She’ll appreciate the fact that you put more into the diamond, and look forward to finding a “forever home” for it, later.
That’s just my $0.10 worth.
 
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