Double claw prong heads - Where to buy?

[loheiman]

Does anyone know who/what company sells these that can be purchased as a head only? My local jeweler doesn't have a lot of experience with them (and doesn't really recommend them because they think they catch on things too easily) so rather than having them make it I was hoping to buy it and have them install it.

I know Wink Jones has a few options. I've looked at Stuller but didnt care for anything there. Any others or ideas?

BTW this will be used to hold a 6.25mm Jubilee cut sapphire.

Thanks!

 

[Todd Gray]

I'd love to see a picture of that Jubilee cut sapphire! Sounds beautiful... where did you find that puppy?

As far as the double prong head goes, I think the statement "my jeweler doesn't have a lot of experience with them" explains why he/she doesn't recommend them...

The reality is that double prongs aren't going to snag any more than a single prong, either prong configuration can snag on things if it is not properly shaped and finished. And it might be worth taking into consideration that you need to find a different jeweler who is familiar with them and not have your ring be the one that your current jeweler gets to learn and practice on. Just my two cents... Given the shape of the diamond, you might need to have the head custom created by somebody who does CAD / CAM.

Did you ask Wink what other options he might have available? As a trade member, he'll have access to all of the standard findings catalogs and certainly has the ability to create a custom one if required.

 

[ame]

Does anyone know who/what company sells these that can be purchased as a head only? My local jeweler doesn't have a lot of experience with them (and doesn't really recommend them because they think they catch on things too easily) so rather than having them make it I was hoping to buy it and have them install it.

I know Wink Jones has a few options. I've looked at Stuller but didnt care for anything there. Any others or ideas?

BTW this will be used to hold a 6.25mm Jubilee cut sapphire.

Thanks!

That bolded part is enough concern for me to look elsewhere. Surely wink has other options.

 

[yssie]

Does anyone know who/what company sells these that can be purchased as a head only? My local jeweler doesn't have a lot of experience with them (and doesn't really recommend them because they think they catch on things too easily) so rather than having them make it I was hoping to buy it and have them install it.

I know Wink Jones has a few options. I've looked at Stuller but didnt care for anything there. Any others or ideas?

BTW this will be used to hold a 6.25mm Jubilee cut sapphire.

Thanks!

This doesn't make sense I'm afraid.

Prongs are what the jeweller makes them. Heads come without prongs - it's just metal wire poking straight up. When the jeweller sets the stone, the jeweller does three things:
1. Cut out "prong seats" - cut outs in those straight wires in which the girdle of the stone will sit,
2. Secure the stone in the prong seats and bend the prong wire onto the top surface of the stone,
3. Shape the wire prong ends into claws.

So "having your jeweller install them" actually means having your jeweller cut out prong-seats, set the stone, and shape the prong wire into double claws... if your jeweller doesn't have much experience with/is not comfortable handling those three steps then having him set your stone is not a viable option.

 

[loheiman]

Hey guys,

Thanks for your replies.

I don't have pictures of the jubilee sapphire yet but I am having MIchael E from gemshoppe cut it for me. Should hopefully have it next week.

Part of the issue may be due to the unique shape of the Jubilee cut. I provided them the CAD that Michael E sent me and they told me it would be difficult to set this in a basket due to the shape of the stone below the girdle. My feeling is that they typically use off the shelf heads and have are comfortable designing/casting their own heads but only if it has a basket?

Lastly, it sounds like any head can be given "claw" prongs, correct? If so, I may just go with a standard 4 prong head and have them shape the prongs into claws..Has anyone seen a single claw head before? I don't think I have...

 

[SB621]

I"m not sure I understand the questions completely.

Claws are a finishing detail. Any jeweler can do them but can they be done well is really the question. I have had a few jewelers take a crack at it and some have been more sucessful then others. Honestly I wouldn't use your local place as they don't seem to know what they are doing. Well done claw prongs will hold the diamond securely in place and it won't stag on anything. 99.55 of my rings are all either single or double claw prongs and I have never had an issue when one was done well.

You can buy any ring and have it finished with a claw prong. This isn't something custom you need to special order. Most jewelers just bend them or do peg prongs which require less skill.

 

[Tekate]

Yssie: Hi, and thank you, I learned a LOT from your post below.. thank you!

Does anyone know who/what company sells these that can be purchased as a head only? My local jeweler doesn't have a lot of experience with them (and doesn't really recommend them because they think they catch on things too easily) so rather than having them make it I was hoping to buy it and have them install it.

I know Wink Jones has a few options. I've looked at Stuller but didnt care for anything there. Any others or ideas?

BTW this will be used to hold a 6.25mm Jubilee cut sapphire.

Thanks!

This doesn't make sense I'm afraid.

Prongs are what the jeweller makes them. Heads come without prongs - it's just metal wire poking straight up. When the jeweller sets the stone, the jeweller does three things:
1. Cut out "prong seats" - cut outs in those straight wires in which the girdle of the stone will sit,
2. Secure the stone in the prong seats and bend the prong wire onto the top surface of the stone,
3. Shape the wire prong ends into claws.

So "having your jeweller install them" actually means having your jeweller cut out prong-seats, set the stone, and shape the prong wire into double claws... if your jeweller doesn't have much experience with/is not comfortable handling those three steps then having him set your stone is not a viable option.

 

[yssie]

You're very welcome!

Here's a short writeup in JCK with more detail if you're interested: http://www.jckonline.com/article/293893-Practical_Stone_Setting_Part_V_Beginning_Prong_Setting.php

 

[marymm]

If Michael E is cutting your sapphire, have you considered having him make the head for you? He is an extremely capable jeweler and can work with an existing head (i.e., Stuller/Adwar finding) or custom-make one for you if that is what is required. As he has the stone in hand, and he has the skills and craftsmanship, he may be the best person for the job (and he is so reasonably-priced)!

 

[Tekate]

Yssie: thank you again! very very informative.

regards.

You're very welcome!

Here's a short writeup in JCK with more detail if you're interested: http://www.jckonline.com/article/293893-Practical_Stone_Setting_Part_V_Beginning_Prong_Setting.php

 

[loheiman]

I guess my jeweler just prefers to use peg prongs rather than cast/make his own. I've decided to go with a standard 4 prong head but have him finish the prongs with "claws". I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks!