Diamond studs with strong fluorescence?

[PaisleyCT]

I should start by saying I am NOT experienced when it comes to looking at diamonds. All I really own for diamonds is my engagement ring. However, I am currently in the market for a pair of diamond studs and I'm looking for some help.

I would really love to get a pair with strong blue fluorescence purely because I find the concept of fluorescence fascinating. But as much as I love the concept, would this actually be a terrible idea? Especially because I am not well versed in diamond shopping?
I always hear that fluoro, especially strong, can potentially make a diamond look milky or oily. I don't want to end up with a poor performing or overall poor appearing diamond.

I'd like to go through a local jeweler (not a chain store!!) but I want to make sure I am informed about my purchase first, and I appreciated the unbiased opinions of the community here. Any advice on purchasing diamonds with strong fluorescence?

ETA - I am looking for 1-1.2 TCW. From shopping for my engagement ring, I know I tend to like colorless stones (my E-ring is an E VS2), but I know this may be less important with studs. I've read in some cases fluoro can be detrimental to colorless stones.

 

[Nitedula]

Check out Brian Gavin Diamonds: they have a line of fluorescent diamonds called "Brian Gavin Blue", which are checked for any deleterious effects. Plus they're ideal cut, so they're very sparkly! I have a small pair from his regular line, but one of these days I'll upgrade to Blues. Unless you're in Houston, they're not a local store, but they've got an excellent reputation.

 

[PaisleyCT]

Check out Brian Gavin Diamonds: they have a line of fluorescent diamonds called "Brian Gavin Blue", which are checked for any deleterious effects. Plus they're ideal cut, so they're very sparkly! I have a small pair from his regular line, but one of these days I'll upgrade to Blues. Unless you're in Houston, they're not a local store, but they've got an excellent reputation.

Thank you for your reply! I actually did reach out to Brian Gavin. They currently do not have any matched pairs (or even two single diamonds) that fit within my criteria. I spoke to them and they said it is becoming increasingly difficult to source these stones but to keep an eye out on their site in case what I am looking for comes up.
I'm up in New England, sadly not Houston!

 

[ringo865]

IDJewelry in NYC might be able to help you.

Sadly, every brick and mortar store near me bashes fluorescent stones (although one of them actually sold one to my then fiancé). I personally think it is a very cool phenomenon.
As rare as milky/oily is, it can be more prevalent in high color or low clarity stones.

 

[PaisleyCT]

I did speak to a local jeweler and they have ordered a pair for me to look at and have sent me the GIA reports in advance. Each stone is 0.50ct, H, SI1, ex/ex/ex with strong blue fluoro

The first stone:
Measurements
5.08 - 5.10 x 3.18 mm
Depth
62.5 %
Table
57 %
Crown Angle
35.5°
Crown Height
15.5%
Pavilion Angle
41.2°
Pavilion Depth
43.5%
Girdle
Medium, Faceted, 3.5%
Culet
None

The second stone:
Measurements
5.04 - 5.07 x 3.15 mm
Depth
62.4 %
Table
57 %
Crown Angle
36.0°
Crown Height
15.5%
Pavilion Angle
40.6°
Pavilion Depth
42.5%
Girdle
Medium to Slightly Thick, Faceted, 4.0%
Culet
None

I looked them up using the HCA, and the first stone is a 1.9, but the second stone is a 4.5. Is this something I'm going to be able to notice easily when I compare the two stones? As I've said, I'm really not experienced in looking at diamonds. Would an HCA of 4.5 matter that much for studs? I do care about performance as I would love to pass these onto my children and if they wanted to repurpose the stones for a ring or something, I wouldn't want them to be limited because the stones weren't appropriate for something like that.

 

[Dancing Fire]

Many of the PSers here do prefer a shallower cut for studs. i.e...< 61% total depth.

 

[OoohShiny]

I looked them up using the HCA, and the first stone is a 1.9, but the second stone is a 4.5.

I think you have reversed the HCA scores

The 4.5 is likely to look dark in the middle / under the table, because it is 'steep deep'.

I was also going to say that this may mean the stone is 'hiding weight' and facing up smaller, but then the dimensions are bigger than the HCA1.9 stone, so I am a little confused... lol


What is your budget? We may be able to help you find alternatives that the jeweller could call in (or you could buy direct)

 

[yssie]

LOVE this idea!!! Strongly fluorescent studs

Ditto previous posters. There are a couple of reasons you’ll see shallower-pavilion stones recommended often on PS for studs -
1. They face up larger for the carat weight - more volume spread horizontally to contribute to diameter
2. Face-up sparkle is less affected by icky pavilions (the undersides of the stones) - and icky pavilions are unavoidable with studs - skin oils, hair oils and products...


The proportions will determine how the stones look and behave IRL. For studs I personally am a bit of a proportions fiend, and I value exacting proportions match over than colour/clarity/precise-size match so the diamonds play with light similarly. For me... I'd want a closer match than that pair... but finding a strongly fluorescent well-matched pair might be really tricky Can you post the GIA reports for that pair?

I did a quick search on JA. Here are some pairs that stood out to me as good behavioural matches, though none are perfect... these aren’t meant to be recommendations, just some observations on what I personally look for Is your vendor able to source alternates for the first stone they selected?

A note about GIA's fluor grading - you will definitely want to have your jeweller check with a blacklight! GIA seems to pull fluor grades out of a hat sometimes, you can't go by what's on the report if it's important to you.


https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...e-color-vs2-clarity-very-good-cut-sku-5350487 (60/32.5/41/75/50, 5.09x5.15, E VS2, SBF)
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...d-color-si1-clarity-very-good-cut-sku-5288858 (60/33.5/41/75/50 5.14x5.16, D SI1, SBF)
These little guys are
Both stones have GIA VG cut grade. Girdle thickness is reported as a proportion of diameter - a "medium" girdle on a 5ct stone will be objectively thicker in mm than a "medium" girdle on a 0.5ct stone. The first stone's cut grade was demoted because of the "thick" girdle, but given the low crown angle, smaller diameter, and the fact that that girdle isn't making the stone overly deep... this actually isn't a bad thing in this context! The second stone's cut grade was also demoted due to girdle - "very thin". This is more concerning than "thick", IMO, as is the fact that the grade-making clarity feature is twinning wisps - you'd want trusted eyes to verify that combination of inclusions and fluorescence has no adverse impact on light return (very unlikely, but have it checked just in case!). The girdle inclusions in the VS2 are prong-able.
Both of these stones are quite shallow (crown, not pavilion, so no benefit on the anti-ick front) and are over-obstructing in JA's video - that swathe of black won't be visible IRL unless you bend over the stone at close range, which - well, anyone that close to the front of your ear probably isn't looking at your earring

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...-color-vvs2-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-4696660 (59/32.5/41/75/50, 5.36x5.39, E VVS2, SBF)
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...e-color-si1-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-5239008 (59/33/40.8/75/50, 5.33x5.35, E SI1, SBF)
Both stones are GIA EX. Again, grade-making inclusion on the SI1 is a twinning wisp so you'd want to have that stone inspected. VVS clarity grade is unnecessary, but I didn't see other options that matched well.

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...-color-vvs1-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-5251044 (58/34/40.6/75/50, 5.20x5.23, F VVS1, SBF)
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...g-color-vs1-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-4742719 (59/34.5/40.6/75/50, 5.30x5.34, G VS1, SBF)
Both stones are GIA EX. Again, VVS - even VS - is unnecessary. The size difference wouldn’t be noticeable once the stones are set but is larger than many would be comfortable with.

 

[PaisleyCT]

I think you have reversed the HCA scores

The 4.5 is likely to look dark in the middle / under the table, because it is 'steep deep'.

I was also going to say that this may mean the stone is 'hiding weight' and facing up smaller, but then the dimensions are bigger than the HCA1.9 stone, so I am a little confused... lol


What is your budget? We may be able to help you find alternatives that the jeweller could call in (or you could buy direct)

Yes, I did reverse them when I copy pasted! Thank you for mentioning that.

My budget is $3K-$4K, I would love suggestions!

 

[PaisleyCT]

LOVE this idea!!! Strongly fluorescent studs

Ditto previous posters. There are a couple of reasons you’ll see shallower-pavilion stones recommended often on PS for studs -
1. They face up larger for the carat weight - more volume spread horizontally to contribute to diameter
2. Face-up sparkle is less affected by icky pavilions (the undersides of the stones) - and icky pavilions are unavoidable with studs - skin oils, hair oils and products...


The proportions will determine how the stones look and behave IRL. For studs I personally am a bit of a proportions fiend, and I value exacting proportions match over than colour/clarity/precise-size match so the diamonds play with light similarly. For me... I'd want a closer match than that pair... but finding a strongly fluorescent well-matched pair might be really tricky Can you post the GIA reports for that pair?

I did a quick search on JA. Here are some pairs that stood out to me as good behavioural matches, though none are perfect... these aren’t meant to be recommendations, just some observations on what I personally look for Is your vendor able to source alternates for the first stone they selected?

A note about GIA's fluor grading - you will definitely want to have your jeweller check with a blacklight! GIA seems to pull fluor grades out of a hat sometimes, you can't go by what's on the report if it's important to you.


https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...e-color-vs2-clarity-very-good-cut-sku-5350487 (60/32.5/41/75/50, 5.09x5.15, E VS2, SBF)
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...d-color-si1-clarity-very-good-cut-sku-5288858 (60/33.5/41/75/50 5.14x5.16, D SI1, SBF)
These little guys are
Both stones have GIA VG cut grade. Girdle thickness is reported as a proportion of diameter - a "medium" girdle on a 5ct stone will be objectively thicker in mm than a "medium" girdle on a 0.5ct stone. The first stone's cut grade was demoted because of the "thick" girdle, but given the low crown angle, smaller diameter, and the fact that that girdle isn't making the stone overly deep... this actually isn't a bad thing in this context! The second stone's cut grade was also demoted due to girdle - "very thin". This is more concerning than "thick", IMO, as is the fact that the grade-making clarity feature is twinning wisps - you'd want trusted eyes to verify that combination of inclusions and fluorescence has no adverse impact on light return (very unlikely, but have it checked just in case!). The girdle inclusions in the VS2 are prong-able.
Both of these stones are quite shallow (crown, not pavilion, so no benefit on the anti-ick front) and are over-obstructing in JA's video - that swathe of black won't be visible IRL unless you bend over the stone at close range, which - well, anyone that close to the front of your ear probably isn't looking at your earring

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...-color-vvs2-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-4696660 (59/32.5/41/75/50, 5.36x5.39, E VVS2, SBF)
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...e-color-si1-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-5239008 (59/33/40.8/75/50, 5.33x5.35, E SI1, SBF)
Both stones are GIA EX. Again, grade-making inclusion on the SI1 is a twinning wisp so you'd want to have that stone inspected. VVS clarity grade is unnecessary, but I didn't see other options that matched well.

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...-color-vvs1-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-5251044 (58/34/40.6/75/50, 5.20x5.23, F VVS1, SBF)
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...g-color-vs1-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-4742719 (59/34.5/40.6/75/50, 5.30x5.34, G VS1, SBF)
Both stones are GIA EX. Again, VVS - even VS - is unnecessary. The size difference wouldn’t be noticeable once the stones are set but is larger than many would be comfortable with.

Here are the two GIA reports
https://www.gia.edu/report-check?reportno=1293486534
https://www.gia.edu/report-check?reportno=6282409851

I'm glad you like my idea! Your explanation about desirable proportions for studs is very helpful and appreciated.

I had tried to go over a few trusted sites, James Allen being a primary one, and attempted to match up some pairs on my own. But being inexperienced, it's certainly quite challenging! I will definitely look into the options you posted and I appreciate the time you took to look for stones for me.

When I do go to the jewelers, any tips for talking with them about exactly what I am looking for? It sounds like the stones they've found aren't quite the right fit. Though it may be easier to purchase online from the help of this amazing community

 

[OoohShiny]

Yes, I did reverse them when I copy pasted! Thank you for mentioning that.

My budget is $3K-$4K, I would love suggestions!

I can't look at the moment because I should be working lol, but a quick look at the Brian Gavin Blue has one that might be of interest:
https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/...0.525-h-vs2-round-diamond-ags-bl-104099554039

You could enquire to see what else they have coming in soon, or see if they can request similar through their 'Advance' range (where you buy before it arrives but they guarantee the grading).