Diamond for Kretchmer Tension Setting

[pdxdon]

Hello,

I''ve lurked on Pricescope for quite some time and have learned so much. Many thanks to everyone!

I would like to get my girlfriend (soon to be fiance) Kretchmer''s "Flat Omega" setting in platinum. Sounds easy enough, right? Kretchmer only has one authorized retailer in my area -- Carl Greve Jewelers. They REALLY push their "Hearts on Fire" diamonds (coincidentally, they''re the only diamonds that they sell!). I think that they are totally overpriced. I do want to get a wonderful stone (AGS000 or very close) but I don''t want to waste money on a brand name, even if its "the world''s most perfectly cut diamond." (sure......)

The salesman at Carl Greve was nice enough to say that I could (at my own risk) procure my own diamond to be set. I got all the warnings about buying a diamond on the internet, etc. Same old BS. Also, they said that Kretchmer could reject any diamond that isn''t within the specifications he will work with. Needless to say, they aren''t very forthcoming with those specifications.....

I do know that the girdle has to be medium width... I''ve heard anywhere from 1.1% to 2.2%. Also, there can''t be any significant inclusions on the girdle. Does anyone have any more information on Kretchmer''s "secret" specifications? You would think I could just fax or Email an AGS certifcation and Sarin report to get a more definitive answer, but I guess that would be too easy.

Ideally, I would like to find a diamond that is around 0.90, perhaps a bit less. Even though it will be set in platinum, I think I can go as high as "I" in color, because I would really like to keep the cost down. Of course, I want an ideal cut.

I''ve looked at NiceIce, GoodOldGold and White Flash. All have nice stones, but its hard to commit when I''m certain as to what will work in the setting. I really don''t want the diamond to be rejected for some reason!

Any experiences, suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much... Don

 

[TheDoctor]

Don''t waste time communicating with the folks who pitch Kretchmer products. You''ve cut them out of the picture.
They have no interest in setting your stone in their mountings. The salesman you are dealing with is going to get kicked in the shorts.

Imagine going to a custom auto builder, and telling them that you want to supply the chassis, engine and transmission, and that you want their logo downsized.
They are going to tell you to screw off, or, they will charge you a premium on the service because you denied them the profit on the total sale.

If you want Kretchmer, you have to pay the rate. The guarantee is what you are after. Tension-settings are pure science.
There are other vendors who sell knock-offs, but will they guarantee the setting?

 

[valeria101]

Date: 2/2/2006 7:34:33 PM
Author:pdxdon



I''ve looked at NiceIce, GoodOldGold and White Flash. All have nice stones, but its hard to commit when I''m certain as to what will work in the setting.

Your ring can''t be the only one either of these sellers have done with e Kretchmer setting. See if any of them can have a stone set in such a ring, and then it is mostly up to the seller of the diamond to advise you about what works.

Around this forum, Pearlman Jewelers lists Kretchmer and you could have either a diamond from them or another stone shipped from a different seller. If it turns out the stone cannot fit a tension setting and you are still within the return period for the diamond, it doesn''t sound too hard to replace the stone. After all, I would think most diamonds would be fit for the job anyway.

And one more thing: I don''t know where the rumor came from the SI diamonds do not get set in tension settings. They surely do.


My 2c

 

[Garysax]

One thing to consider--don't necessarily force yourself to go local with the setting. If it's anything like Gelin Abaci (who I am getting a tension ring from), remember that you're getting the same ring no matter where--they're sending it to Kretchmer to make remotely. So shop around and see if you can get more information from a different vendor if the local one is being a problem for you.

Again, this is with Gelin Abaci so Kretchmer could have higher tolerances. They won't set anything under SI1. But SI1 they'll only set if there are no inclusions near the girdle or that are on the surface. I think VS1 is sure to be accepted, even if they have a higher bar than G+A for their tension sets. They'll probably do VS2 as well and you can probably get away with a nice eyeclean SI1.

Another smart option is to take/send that stone to your dealer while you're still on your refund period. If it doesn't work, send it back and all you're eating is the shipping charges.

I don't know much about Kretchmer's specific policies, but I think you'll be ok with VS1 or 2 and a good cut... but you should make sure your refund period is still in play when you take it or send it in to whoever the Kretchmer dealer is.

BTW, I think you're very smart not to get pressured into buying a marked up diamond from them.

 

[valeria101]

Date: 2/3/2006 2:58:56 AM
Author: Garysax



Again, this is with Gelin Abaci so Kretchmer could have higher tolerances. They won''t set anything under SI1.

That''s what I used to know too... but I wonder if it is a technical or commercial statement. There are rings by Kretchmer set with SI2 diamonds out there. Some online too. Check the ''previously owned'' list at Pearlmans''.

 

[pdxdon]

Thanks for the advice and encouragement.

I should probably check with another Kretchmer dealer, to see if they might be more willing to help me. I mean, its a $3,500 setting, and all they would have to do is send whatever diamond I bought to Kretchmer! There''s got to be some profit there..

From what I''ve heard, Kretchmer is more particular about the girdle width of the stone than Gelin Abaci. Inclusions around the girdle have been mentioned as a negative factor for both company''s tension settings. I heard that SI1 was the cutoff for both, as well, but I have seen a GAI ring with a SI2 in it. Again, the location of the inclusions seems to be what really matters.

I really liked GAI''s settings, too. The jewelers out here just didn''t have too wide of a variety. Which one did you decide on, Garysax?

Is Pearlman good? Does anyone have any other recommendations?

 

[Garysax]

Date: 2/3/2006 4:13:49 AM
Author: pdxdon
From what I''ve heard, Kretchmer is more particular about the girdle width of the stone than Gelin Abaci. Inclusions around the girdle have been mentioned as a negative factor for both company''s tension settings.

Yeah, probably. G+A will set most girdles as long as they''re not very thin. But that said, I personally would NOT feel comfortable setting anything less than medium. Sure, they''ll do it... but I''d be way, way too worried about damage.

 

[mrssalvo]

Date: 2/3/2006 4:13:49 AM
Author: pdxdon





Is Pearlman good?

Bill Pearlman is one of the nicest guys you would ever meet. He is very knowledgable and friendly, very willing to educate and answer questions and best of all he applies no pressure. He is also very quick to respond to emails.

Pearlmans

 

[Jelly]

The folks here at PS always speak very highly of Pearlman''s. I''m excited about your kretchmer ring. A local jeweler sells his designs and I''ve always been fascinated by tension settings. Good luck and don''t forget to post pictures once you have the ring!

Does your GF like tension settings? There has been much discussion about surprising your gal with a ring that''s not her style. Make sure she likes it before you spend 3.5K on a setting!

 

[pdxdon]

I''ve had it with my local Kretchmer dealer!

I had an .91 AGS000 picked out, which met all of Kretchmer''s criteria (at least the ones that they would tell me). Then, out of nowhere, they said that they would charge a $500 setting fee if I used my own stone! Of course, they can charge whatever they want, but the point is that they didn''t tell me this until I was ready to go. And, they said that I would have to sign a waiver stating that Kretchmer would not be at fault if my diamond was destroyed in the setting process.... that''s fine, too, but they didn''t tell me that, either.

They did offer to sell me a "generic" (at a high markup), but they said that it "probably wouldn''t be ideal cut."

Bottom line -- for about the same price as a "generic," .91 AGS000, they would sell a .62 "Hearts on Fire." No thanks!

Carl Greve in Portland is a nice store with great products, but I wouldn''t recommend them to anyone. Obviously realize that I''m not their target custmer, since I was "only" looking to spend about $8,000 on an engagement ring. Its ironic that they bill themselves as such a high class jewelry store, because their tactics and salesmanship seem more like those a sketchy used car dealership. I guess that''s what can happen when salespeople are paid on commission.

I should probably try to work with Bill Pearlman -- though I wish his store wasn''t so far away! But, right now I think I''m done looking at Kretchmer settings.

Thanks, everyone, for your help and advice!

 

[mrssalvo]

i''m so sorry pdxdon. Try not to get to discouraged. I actually live several states away from Pearlmans but Bill is great to work with long distance. He has even shipped out settings for some of us to look at because no one locally carried them. I would at least give him a call and see what he can do to help you

 

[Garysax]

That is absurd. 500 dollars, huh? Ridiculous.

Don't abandon the Kretchmer! I would work with someone online, either Pearlman's or otherwise. I think you'll be very impressed with how good internet service can be if you get the right dealer.

You might also find that the price of the settings is different too. With Gelin Abaci there was decent variation in price depending on who I talked to.

Good luck whatever you decide to do. You were smart to walk away when things started to smell fishy.

 

[JoangA]

Hello, I have purchased the Kretchmer setting for my wedding ring. I too love the setting. I was able to purchase using my own diamond without any pressure from the store. They did say there was a chance that Steven would reject it if it wasn''t suitable. It was and looks great! My stone is an ideal, VS2 with V. thin to med. Fac. girdle.

The store I purchased from was The Vault Gallery in Santa Cruz, don''t know if they would order via the phone though.
They were very careful able measuring my finger as it can''t be resized, so that would be a problem with on-line ordering.

Good Luck! I''m sure you''ll really enjoy it.

 

[mrssalvo]

Date: 2/5/2006 1:46:17 PM
Author: JoangA


They were very careful able measuring my finger as it can''t be resized, so that would be a problem with on-line ordering.

You are correct about the possibly of sizing problems on-line. I wear a true 3.5. One on-line ring I had made ended up a 3.25 even though I ordered a 3.5. Another ring I ordered a 3.5 plus and it ended up being a true 3.5. I do know for a fact that Pearlman''s often sends out his sizers to get the accurate finger size. I''m sure if the setting cannot be sized he would strongly recommend this