DBTY Necklace - Bracelet

[xxxxxx]

Hi everybody,

I’m so excited to start a project/ birthday gift for my MIL (even though I really don’t care about her as she hasn’t been very kind to me in the past) but at least I can buy diamonds now.

I have a few concerns and from combing through the DBTY threads I have gotten a bit worried if my idea is even feasible. I plan on David Klaas making the necklace and having the diamonds bezeled. Is there even a prong set DBTY necklaces?


1. I want to gift her a DBTY necklace which she also can convert into a bracelet - is that even possible?

2. I want to use 5 diamonds in different shapes (heart, Asscher, pear, round, marquise). I do want a elegant understated look as she doesn’t even wear her 4ct solitaire out more than twice a year (what a shame . But the diamonds I can buy are all around the 5mm mark.
- Is 5mm too overpowering?
- How do I (or better said the jeweller) get the diamonds not to flip?
- Is it possible to have such “big” diamonds without the culet poking her on her wrist or chest?

3. What can I expect to pay for David’s Klaas work a 16” chain and the setting of the diamonds? (Just a ballpark number before I waste his time).

Thank you for any advice!

 

[AV_]

There is no solution to poking culets other than deeper bezels or some other kind of 'cage' behind the stones; bar links with particular connections may avoid flipping even on a longer chain, but, this means every element of the necklace is made for the model.

2p

 

[purplesilk]

even though I really don’t care about her as she hasn’t been very kind to me in the past


she doesn’t even wear her 4ct solitaire out more than twice a year (what a shame .

Sorry, but why do you want to buy diamonds for someone you don't care?
A waste of money and she would probably even not like the gift.
IMHO you'd better buy her a nice birthday cake or a big box of stabilized roses

 

[xxxxxx]

Sorry, but why do you want to buy diamonds for someone you don't care?
A waste of money and she would probably even not like the gift.
IMHO you'd better buy her a nice birthday cake or a big box of stabilized roses

Because It will be the 10
Year anniversary of her son (a youth at the time) passing a few days before her birthday. So we want to give her a piece of jewellery with 5 diamonds - representing her 5 children. Including her son who passed away.
And as I love diamonds I’m happy to create a piece that will hopefully give her some joy (even though I’m hurt by the way she has treated me).

But thank you for your gift giving advice!

 

[purplesilk]

Still perplexed, I don't get it, but as Kenny says:"People vary".

I'm sure the lovely PSers will help find the perfect gift for your MIL.

Best to you,
purplesilk

 

[AprilBaby]

I gave up on the DBTY because of the flipping. Nothing you can do about it. Look on Vrai, a newer jeweler. I bought ( and lost) a beautiful prong set DBTY necklace there that never flipped but the diamonds are very small. It was $400 and had 5 diamonds. I got lots of compliments! It’s very dainty but perfect for layering. I wish I could find it.

 

[yssie]

That’s so kind of you @Lessics. Perhaps this gift will be the trigger that compels her to see you as one of “hers” and someone to cherish.

Given the circumstances, though, I do want to strongly advise checking with her husband/children to confirm this is something she'd appreciate and enjoy. I personally imagine that jewellery - something that in our times is typically gifted in celebration, mourning pieces aren't as common as they used to be - could be difficult and painful to receive on the anniversary of a child's passing.


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Re. the DBTY questions:

Is there even a prong set DBTY necklaces?

It could be done, but it would IMO be bulky and unattractive. Stones used in station pieces are typically very small - even the smallest prongs will be more bulky than delicate bezels. Prongs also require baskets to attach to - with bezels, the metalwork is the same top-view and bottom-view; with prongs you'll see baskets when the motifs flip, which will look nothing like the top view.

1. I want to gift her a DBTY necklace which she also can convert into a bracelet - is that even possible?

Yes. If you don't mind clasps taking the place of two of the diamond stations. Mine is a two-strand anklet/bracelet convertible from WF, but for a general idea:
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/three-years-of-whiteflash.240335/

heart, Asscher, pear, round, marquise [...] 5mm too overpowering

5mm stones are huge in DBTY world!! At this size they will definitely have pokey culets and the difference between crown and pavilion will definitely be noticeable when they flip. I'm usually on the "bigger is better" wagon but for this sort of piece I would recommend aiming for 3.5-4mm for the round (and face-up surface area equivalents in fancies), for both comfort and aesthetics

How do I (or better said the jeweller) get the diamonds not to flip?

The eternal DBTY question. I have not found a way to prevent motifs from flipping yet, nor has anyone else; I suspect there isn't one. There are two things you can do to minimize/negate the visible effects of flipping (ie. If they're going to flip, how do I make it as invisible as possible?)
1. Choose bezels. If you milgrain, milgrain both top and underside.
2. Choose smaller stones. The difference in faceting between face-up and bottom-up is much less noticeable in a 3mm stone than in a 5mm stone.
3. Alternatively, choose stones that are exactly the same (or almost exactly the same) both face-up and bottom-up. Rose cuts! Double-sided would be ideal, but are probably going to be impossible to find. Even regular rose cuts will be extremely difficult to find (one of each in complementary sizes and colours), but if you've got some time it might be worth asking some vendors what they might have...

Is it possible to have such “big” diamonds without the culet poking her on her wrist or chest?

Rose cuts won't poke at all, if she would appreciate the different look and sparkle. But, as I mentioned earlier, they're going to be difficult and time-consuming to find, and they'll certainly cost more than "regular" shapes.
However...
Do you have to use diamonds? If you're open to coloured stones you could have rose cuts custom-cut in whatever size/colour/material you want...

 

[xxxxxx]

@yssie Thank you so much for answering all these questions. You went so in depth. You’re like a encyclopedia and so detail oriented!

It seems I have to really rethink the DBTY idea. I want diamonds because I know she would wear this piece everyday and diamonds just fit to any color . But the rose cuts are a really nice idea. But somehow I wanted different shapes. Maybe I should think about diamond charms. I will give myself another two weeks before I pull the trigger!

Thank you for your time!

 

[yssie]

The Gem Bee has some bezeled rose cut (diamond) charms in different shapes:

thegembee - Etsy

Shop Gem Bee by thegembee. Smooth shipping! Has a history of shipping on time with tracking. Speedy replies! Has a history of replying to messages quickly. Rave reviews! Average review rating is 4.8 or higher.

www.etsy.com

I've bought from Vivien several times and she is lovely to work with. I believe she isn't currently manufacturing (due to coronavirus) but if you're interested you might ask if she's got any other shapes on hand.

 

[AV_]

@yssie You mentioned double rose cuts - I wonder if some French [or point, or table] cuts would work for the same reason - they are bright bottom up too, if the reflections (as a pattern on a an immaginary half sphere cut by the girdle plane] are not the same - possibly as bright sum total, but wildly scattered [a good thing, if the stones are kept rolling]

ramble

 

[xxxxxx]

@yssie thank you for sharing that shop. I love her products!

 

[Austina]

How about a 5 stone cluster or journey pendant representing her 5 children instead?

This one has sold, but something like this maybe?

1.5 ct diamond Journey pendant | Loupe Troop

loupetroop.com

 

[Queenie60]

@Lessics - have you thought about a bangle with the five stones set at the top of the bangle? This could be a lovely way of celebrating her birthday, representing her 5 children. And I admire your thoughtfulness. I too, have a mother in law that has been very rude to me over the 31 years of my marriage, it's just her way. However, my husband loves his mother very much (which is why he is such a kind and loving husband) and I feel that I should do my best to try and love her as well. You're doing the right thing. Hope you find the most special piece of jewelry to help her to celebrate, you're a very kind and thoughtful daughter in law.

 

[xxxxxx]

@Lessics - have you thought about a bangle with the five stones set at the top of the bangle? This could be a lovely way of celebrating her birthday, representing her 5 children. And I admire your thoughtfulness. I too, have a mother in law that has been very rude to me over the 31 years of my marriage, it's just her way. However, my husband loves his mother very much (which is why he is such a kind and loving husband) and I feel that I should do my best to try and love her as well. You're doing the right thing. Hope you find the most special piece of jewelry to help her to celebrate, you're a very kind and thoughtful daughter in law.

Thank you for your thoughtful answer! It’s not easy with a MIL who’s exhausting to be around, but I find comfort in hearing about not being the only „rejected“ daughter in law (:


You are right a bangle would seem to solve all the DBTY problems - I personally just find bangles uncomfortable and have never seen her wear one. So I’m concerned she wouldn’t wear it a lot. But it seems like the most elegant solution! I think next weekend (lockdown restrictions have been lifted partially in our country) I’ll maybe ask to look at her jewellery collection and if she doesn’t have one bangle I should consider it!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I honestly think for 5 stones, a bracelet is better than a necklace. My dbty bracelet has 15 point stones and I probably wouldn't consider larger than 20-25 point stones, definitely bezeled. I prefer just the bezel around the girdle of the stones like Tiffany makes theirs.

I will have to say that I think 5 different shaped diamonds in a necklace would not be something I would find attractive at all. I'd stick with 5 of the same shape regardless of whether you go with necklace or bracelet.

 

[xxxxxx]

I honestly think for 5 stones, a bracelet is better than a necklace. My dbty bracelet has 15 point stones and I probably wouldn't consider larger than 20-25 point stones, definitely bezeled. I prefer just the bezel around the girdle of the stones like Tiffany makes theirs.

I will have to say that I think 5 different shaped diamonds in a necklace would not be something I would find attractive at all. I'd stick with 5 of the same shape regardless of whether you go with necklace or bracelet.

I have come to the same conclusion that five different shapes is something I would wear (being 26), but I can't see myself wearing something like that in 15 years. So I will be going with a single emerald cut diamond on a bracelet. A bit boring but also less of a hassle finding five diamonds in similiar dimensions.

Thank you everybody for chiming in - your advice is so valuable!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

You can never go wrong with simple and classic! Very good choice!

(I should add, though, that there's no hassle in getting 5 rounds. You'd just have the maker of the bracelet source 5 excellent cut small stones in the color/clarity range you wanted. My bracelet has 15 point stones so WF just used 5 of their ACA melee stones.)

 

[GlitterInMyHair]

What about a diamond bar necklace like this one, if you still want to do different shaped diamonds.



Or a floating diamond necklace like this. No need to worry about diamonds flipping.

 

[AV_]

So I will be going with a single emerald cut diamond on a bracelet.

If this is a custom piece, perhaps the clasp can be made as a second 'station' on the chain, to balance the weight of the bezelled EC; it could carry engraving (monogram, date, else.) & such.

Just a thought

Another: the most expensive gift I gave that was not jewelry, was seen as an imposition - too good therefore bad.

 

[xxxxxx]

@GlitterInMyHair I love your example pictures. I hadn’t found that type of design yet. Makes me want to go back to different diamond shapes. But I considers what @AV_ said maybe it is safer to just get one shape of diamond and call it a day.

I looove the second necklace - saved the picture in my jewelry inspiration folder for my next necklace purchase. Thank you for posting those two pictures!

@AV_ That is a great idea I will keep that one in mind. Also an interesting point about a present being too good. Even though I have always been on my best behavior and I’m a very good Partner to her son - it seems to never be enough

 

[purplesilk]

Another: the most expensive gift I gave that was not jewelry, was seen as an imposition - too good therefore bad.

Ditto.