Darkness in a cushion modified brilliant?

[redbeard]

No, you can use the ASET on a mounted stone. You'll hold it up directly to the scope and won't need the tweezers. Just try to line up the table with the edge of the scope. I believe there are instructions printed on the packaging.

Thanks. Will the result of using the scope give me a picture I can post here for other's judgement? Or is that just something that the bigger more sophisticated scopes give you?

 

[redbeard]

I'll call them right now.

Just to eliminate any doubt, here's the link: http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/cushion-cut/3.03-carat-h-color-vs2-clarity-sku-597747

Dark zones are visible in quite big angle range during tilting. Most probably both eyes will see darkness in same time if you observe the diamond from short distance. in such case it significantly reduces brightness and brilliancy .The phenomena is similar to nail head in round diamond or round diamonds with very shallow pavilion.

ASET image does not give enough information for this diamond, you need check it in naked eye.

Thanks Serg. So your recommendation is to try to find a person locally who could evaluate the ring for me?

 

[Serg]

I'll call them right now.

Just to eliminate any doubt, here's the link: http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/cushion-cut/3.03-carat-h-color-vs2-clarity-sku-597747

Dark zones are visible in quite big angle range during tilting. Most probably both eyes will see darkness in same time if you observe the diamond from short distance. in such case it significantly reduces brightness and brilliancy .The phenomena is similar to nail head in round diamond or round diamonds with very shallow pavilion.

ASET image does not give enough information for this diamond, you need check it in naked eye.

Thanks Serg. So your recommendation is to try to find a person locally who could evaluate the ring for me?

Yes. it is not the case when you should buy relying on the movie, photos only.

 

[redbeard]

No, you can use the ASET on a mounted stone. You'll hold it up directly to the scope and won't need the tweezers. Just try to line up the table with the edge of the scope. I believe there are instructions printed on the packaging.

Thanks. Will the result of using the scope give me a picture I can post here for other's judgement? Or is that just something that the bigger more sophisticated scopes give you?

Hi guys...just wanted to bump this question. If I buy the ASET scope, will I have to evaluate the results personally or can I post them on here somehow? If I have to evaluate them personally, is this an easy thing to do?

Thanks!

 

[gr8leo87]

The black we often see in diamond pics, especially those taken head-on, is just a reflection of the black camera and lens.

The black is not in the diamond any more than a black camera appearing black in a mirror indicates anything is wrong with the mirror.
Both the mirror and the diamond are just obeying the laws of physics and optics by reflecting what's in front of them.

The most effective way to reduce black in diamond pics is rarely employed because it is so expensive ... a better lens.
Using the least-expensvie macro lenses results in more black reflecting in the diamond than the most-expensvie macro lenses.
Why?
Macro lenses with shorter focal lengths, like 50 mm, have to be almost kissing the diamond.
Lenses of longer focal length, like 180 or 200 mm, can be almost a foot away while still delivering the same enlargement.

A 200mm Nikon macro lens is $1800.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/200mm-micro.htm
... but a 40mm Nikon Macro lens is only $280.
http://kenrockwell.com/nikon/40mm-f28.htm

When the big black camera is further from the diamond less of it will be reflected by the diamond.

Here's another thing that I, as a photographer, do to reduce the amount of black that appears in my diamond pics.
I reduce how much of the black camera that the diamond can "see" by cutting a hole in a white sheet of styrofoam that fits tightly onto the lens.
Then the diamond "sees" only the lens, not the big black camera.

Is there anyway we can have a diamond photography 101 post by you?

 

[Serg]

No, you can use the ASET on a mounted stone. You'll hold it up directly to the scope and won't need the tweezers. Just try to line up the table with the edge of the scope. I believe there are instructions printed on the packaging.

Thanks. Will the result of using the scope give me a picture I can post here for other's judgement? Or is that just something that the bigger more sophisticated scopes give you?

Hi guys...just wanted to bump this question. If I buy the ASET scope, will I have to evaluate the results personally or can I post them on here somehow? If I have to evaluate them personally, is this an easy thing to do?

Thanks!

ASET scope is not enough to evaluate fancy cuts performance with good reliability . ASET is helpful to find similar diamonds

 

[kenny]

The black we often see in diamond pics, especially those taken head-on, is just a reflection of the black camera and lens.

The black is not in the diamond any more than a black camera appearing black in a mirror indicates anything is wrong with the mirror.
Both the mirror and the diamond are just obeying the laws of physics and optics by reflecting what's in front of them.

The most effective way to reduce black in diamond pics is rarely employed because it is so expensive ... a better lens.
Using the least-expensvie macro lenses results in more black reflecting in the diamond than the most-expensvie macro lenses.
Why?
Macro lenses with shorter focal lengths, like 50 mm, have to be almost kissing the diamond.
Lenses of longer focal length, like 180 or 200 mm, can be almost a foot away while still delivering the same enlargement.

A 200mm Nikon macro lens is $1800.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/200mm-micro.htm
... but a 40mm Nikon Macro lens is only $280.
http://kenrockwell.com/nikon/40mm-f28.htm

When the big black camera is further from the diamond less of it will be reflected by the diamond.

Here's another thing that I, as a photographer, do to reduce the amount of black that appears in my diamond pics.
I reduce how much of the black camera that the diamond can "see" by cutting a hole in a white sheet of styrofoam that fits tightly onto the lens.
Then the diamond "sees" only the lens, not the big black camera.

Is there anyway we can have a diamond photography 101 post by you?

Thanks 4 asking.

Actually, I've been posting about diamond macrophotography for 10 years here but the posts are all spread out but you're welcome to search for them.

The challenge of posting a Photo101 is there is such a huge range of people here.
This is a diamond forum, not a photo forum, let alone a macrophotography forum, let alone a gem macrophotography forum.
We'd really need 3 or 4 Photo101 threads, one for each type of camera ...

The vast majority use a cellphone.
Some use a point an shoot.
Some have mirrorless.
Some have DSLRs.
Few have a real macro lens, and even those don't have enough enlargement to fill the frame with the diamond so a bellows is in order.
Few want to hassle with all that or with lighting and controlling environment.

AFAIK only one non-pro here has bought a bellows and a light box that I've recommended.
You can use screw-on magnifying 'filters' or reversing lenses but the results are WAY more limiting and vastly inferior to what a bellows can do.
Next there's post processing (like Photoshopping) which I see as an essential part of the process but many here see as a cardinal sin.

My point is some info I can post is universal, but much is useful and/or interesting to a tiny minority here, if anyone, and some info annoys some folks here.
Nearly all of my macrophotography posts that get technical generate no discussion.

BTW, on another PS forum (Show me the bling) at the top of the page there is a pinned thread on taking diamond pics: [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/forums/show-me-the-bling-rings-earrings-jewelry.8/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/forums/show-me-the-bling-rings-earrings-jewelry.8/[/URL]

What kind of equipment do you have or intend to buy for diamond photography?
Cellphone, point and shoot, mirror-less, small-frame DSLR, full-frame DSLR, true macro lens, bellows, light box and lights, serious tripod?
You get what you pay for but it gets pretty pricey if you'd like to get the best results.

How good is good enough?
Since people vary the answer will vary.

I will say this, buy the largest sensor you can afford!!!!
I'm talking about the actual area of the sensor, not how many megapixels it has.

 

[gr8leo87]

The black we often see in diamond pics, especially those taken head-on, is just a reflection of the black camera and lens.

The black is not in the diamond any more than a black camera appearing black in a mirror indicates anything is wrong with the mirror.
Both the mirror and the diamond are just obeying the laws of physics and optics by reflecting what's in front of them.

The most effective way to reduce black in diamond pics is rarely employed because it is so expensive ... a better lens.
Using the least-expensvie macro lenses results in more black reflecting in the diamond than the most-expensvie macro lenses.
Why?
Macro lenses with shorter focal lengths, like 50 mm, have to be almost kissing the diamond.
Lenses of longer focal length, like 180 or 200 mm, can be almost a foot away while still delivering the same enlargement.

A 200mm Nikon macro lens is $1800.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/200mm-micro.htm
... but a 40mm Nikon Macro lens is only $280.
http://kenrockwell.com/nikon/40mm-f28.htm

When the big black camera is further from the diamond less of it will be reflected by the diamond.

Here's another thing that I, as a photographer, do to reduce the amount of black that appears in my diamond pics.
I reduce how much of the black camera that the diamond can "see" by cutting a hole in a white sheet of styrofoam that fits tightly onto the lens.
Then the diamond "sees" only the lens, not the big black camera.

Is there anyway we can have a diamond photography 101 post by you?

Thanks 4 asking.

Actually, I've been posting about diamond macrophotography for 10 years here but the posts are all spread out but you're welcome to search for them.

The challenge of posting a Photo101 is there is such a huge range of people here.
This is a diamond forum, not a photo forum, let alone a macrophotography forum, let alone a gem macrophotography forum.
We'd really need 3 or 4 Photo101 threads, one for each type of camera ...

The vast majority use a cellphone.
Some use a point an shoot.
Some have mirrorless.
Some have DSLRs.
Few have a real macro lens, and even those don't have enough enlargement to fill the frame with the diamond so a bellows is in order.
Few want to hassle with all that or with lighting and controlling environment.

AFAIK only one non-pro here has bought a bellows and a light box that I've recommended.
You can use screw-on magnifying 'filters' or reversing lenses but the results are WAY more limiting and vastly inferior to what a bellows can do.
Next there's post processing (like Photoshopping) which I see as an essential part of the process but many here see as a cardinal sin.

My point is some info I can post is universal, but much is useful and/or interesting to a tiny minority here, if anyone, and some info annoys some folks here.
Nearly all of my macrophotography posts that get technical generate no discussion.

BTW, on another PS forum (Show me the bling) at the top of the page there is a pinned thread on taking diamond pics: [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/forums/show-me-the-bling-rings-earrings-jewelry.8/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/forums/show-me-the-bling-rings-earrings-jewelry.8/[/URL]

What kind of equipment do you have or intend to buy for diamond photography?
Cellphone, point and shoot, mirror-less, small-frame DSLR, full-frame DSLR, true macro lens, bellows, light box and lights, serious tripod?
You get what you pay for but it gets pretty pricey if you'd like to get the best results.

How good is good enough?
Since people vary the answer will vary.

I will say this, buy the largest sensor you can afford!!!!
I'm talking about the actual area of the sensor, not how many megapixels it has.

I could fork out a 2000-3000 bucks - and go the professional camera route. The Nikon 100mm macro lense alone costs a 1000 dollars!!

I've considered buying a DiBox - but that comes pretty expensive - and a premium because of the software and everything. And takes generic images more geared towards the inclusions and facets rather than the beauty.

I could do with a generic setup - a generic light box, a stand to hold the camera still, a platform to place the diamond, perhaps a rotating one - I don't even know the exact terminologies - I've only ever sorted through hundreds of carats of melee for clarity sorting - never pictures. That's the only macro work I've done lol.

Somebody suggested me a camera set-up over at the thelittlecameras.com but how can those small tripod cameras actually ever take nice macro shots that we see on website of a very reputable ring designer?

I'm sure there's a lot of post processing involved. The structured lighting photos like Aset or IS are nearly not as difficult and can be easily done using a point and shoot. It's those glamour shots. And I've seen you put pictures of your asscher wow that was lovely.

All the other pre-built photography systems go in excess of 10,000 dollars - part of that cost is the premium of other auxiliary services like cloud, software etc.

 

[gr8leo87]

You could help me by suggesting a light box, a tripod, a camera + lense etc. I'm a fairly technical person and I should be able to grasp most of what you are saying - usually only have to read the second time [emoji14]

 

[kenny]

You could help me by suggesting a light box, a tripod, a camera + lense etc. I'm a fairly technical person and I should be able to grasp most of what you are saying - usually only have to read the second time [emoji14]

STOP, don't buy Nikon's new 105mm F2.8 G lens.
I have that lens, love it for other things, but it doesn't work on a bellows.

KEH is a good source for used gear that regularly supplies pros.
They check it out first, rate it, and offer a return period and short guarantee ... WAY less risky than eBay or Craigslist.

Bellows ... this particular one may not be in good enough condition, call them and ask. $192 https://www.keh.com/shop/nikon-pb-6-bellow-focusing-unit-attachment-221043.html

Lens: $339 https://www.keh.com/shop/nikon-105mm-f-2-8-micro-ais-manual-focus-lens-52.html This fully-manual older lens is razor sharp and works on the bellows. Focus at f2.8, but take the pic at f5.6 or f8. I've used one of these for decades! Love it!
The only macro lens I love more is my new $1800 AF Micro-Nikkor 200mm f/4D IF-ED, but that would gobble up most of your $3000 budget.

Camera Body: $999 https://www.keh.com/shop/nikon-d600-24-3-megapixel-digital-slr-camera-body-only-black.html
Other choices are D610 or D750 ... I use a D810 but that's a budget bomb.
Stay in Aperture-Priority mode.
Take the pic with the mirror locked up and using the timer or a wireless remote control.
Touching the camera will blur the pic at these high magnifications.

Lights and white tent: I bought something like this: http://store.tabletopstudio-store.com/dejephkit.html

Tripod choice is tricky, buy heavy aluminum is smart, don't pay more for carbon fiber ... you want mass!
I bought a new Gitzo Series Three 3-section aluminum tripod base.
Used is fine if you know what you're buying.

For the tripod head I STRONGLY recommend a new $280 3-axis coarse and fine geared Manfrotto 410: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/124665-REG/Manfrotto_410_410_Junior_Geared_Head.html
At high magnifications you really need these fine 3-axis controls.
A ball head is too coarse.

Squinting at the camera's small LCD screen sucks ... tether to an external monitor to get better critical focus (You should always only focus manually for macro work)
Any flat screen monitor with an HDMI input will be a God Send!
Put the body in Live view, connect it to the monitor via an HDMI cable you must buy.
There are several sizes of connector ... research and buy a cable with the right sizes on each end.
You can probably pick a new 17" monitor for under $200.

Again, do NOT buy any Nikon Micro G-series lens.
They don't work with a bellows since the bellows cannot transfer the needed aperture control.
A G-lens will sit there useless on a bellows, stupid and dark, stuck at f32.
Nikon stopped making bellows long ago, before the G-series lenses were introduced.

 

[gr8leo87]

You could help me by suggesting a light box, a tripod, a camera + lense etc. I'm a fairly technical person and I should be able to grasp most of what you are saying - usually only have to read the second time [emoji14]

STOP, don't buy Nikon's new 105mm F2.8 G lens.
I have that lens, love it for other things, but it doesn't work on a bellows.

KEH is a good source for used gear that regularly supplies pros.
They check it out first, rate it, and offer a return period and short guarantee ... WAY less risky than eBay or Craigslist.

Bellows ... this particular one may not be in good enough condition, call them and ask. $192 https://www.keh.com/shop/nikon-pb-6-bellow-focusing-unit-attachment-221043.html

Lens: $339 https://www.keh.com/shop/nikon-105mm-f-2-8-micro-ais-manual-focus-lens-52.html This fully-manual older lens is razor sharp and works on the bellows. Focus at f2.8, but take the pic at f5.6 or f8. I've used one of these for decades! Love it!
The only macro lens I love more is my new $1800 AF Micro-Nikkor 200mm f/4D IF-ED, but that would gobble up most of your $3000 budget.

Camera Body: $999 https://www.keh.com/shop/nikon-d600-24-3-megapixel-digital-slr-camera-body-only-black.html
Other choices are D610 or D750 ... I use a D810 but that's a budget bomb.
Stay in Aperture-Priority mode.
Take the pic with the mirror locked up and using the timer or a wireless remote control.
Touching the camera will blur the pic at these high magnifications.

Lights and white tent: I bought something like this: http://store.tabletopstudio-store.com/dejephkit.html

Tripod choice is tricky, buy heavy aluminum is smart, don't pay more for carbon fiber ... you want mass!
I bought a new Gitzo Series Three 3-section aluminum tripod base.
Used is fine if you know what you're buying.

For the tripod head I STRONGLY recommend a new $280 3-axis coarse and fine geared Manfrotto 410: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/124665-REG/Manfrotto_410_410_Junior_Geared_Head.html
At high magnifications you really need these fine 3-axis controls.
A ball head is too coarse.

Squinting at the camera's small LCD screen sucks ... tether to an external monitor to get better critical focus (You should always only focus manually for macro work)
Any flat screen monitor with an HDMI input will be a God Send!
Put the body in Live view, connect it to the monitor via the HDMI cable.
You can probably pick a 17" up for under $200 new.

Again, do NOT buy any Nikon Micro G-series lens.
They don't work with a bellows since the bellows cannot transfer the needed aperture control.
Nikon stopped making bellows long ago, before the G-series lenses were introduced.

Wow that is a lot of helpful information. Amazing,! I'm gonna have to check the feasibility of all of that considering I'm half way world apart in Australia. I'll see if I could get those stuff locally but I can use a shipping company to send me all those goods. Probably gonna have to break em down into smaller parts of less than a 1000 A$ to save duties.

Thanks so muchh!!! [emoji1]

 

[kenny]

FYI here is how it all fits together.
This happens to be my old D800 with a different bellows model, but PB-4 but the PB-6 is fine.

Frankly if you can find one a PB-4 is better.
It has movements.
The lens stage can tilt and swing for better control of the very narrow plane of focus. .... VERY cool!
Not very different in price than the PB-6 I had before I got my PB-4.

Notice the silver knob on the bottom of the bellows.
That racks the whole system closer to or further from the diamond to get it in focus without changing the enlargement ... another god send.

Be careful the bellows you buy has this. Some don't.

 

[kenny]

Even with a fine Nikon DSLR with a full-frame sensor and a true macro lens a diamond is too small to fill the viewfinder.
This means you have to crop in later after taking the pic.
That's bad.
If your camera has 24 MP but the diamond only takes up 10% of the sensor that means you effectively are using a 2.4 MP camera.

Only by moving the lens away from the camera body with a bellows can you get enough enlargement to fill the sensor and use all the 24 million pixels you paid for.

Look how sharp this tiny 0.19 carat colored diamond looks when I used the lens and body recommended above.
I full extended the bellows so this scene of the tiny diamond filled up the screen/sensor.

 

[gr8leo87]

Even with a fine Nikon DSLR with a full-frame sensor and a true macro lens a diamond is too small to fill the viewfinder.
This means you have to crop in later after taking the pic.
That's bad.
If your camera has 24 MP but the diamond only takes up 10% of the sensor that means you effectively are using a 2.4 MP camera.

Only by moving the lens away from the camera body with a bellows can you get enough enlargement to fill the sensor and use all the 24 million pixels you paid for.

Look how sharp this tiny 0.19 carat colored diamond looks when I used the lens and body recommended above, bot full extended the bellows so the tiny diamond filled up the screen/sensor.

Genius! That diamonds look beautiful! Do u have any picture that you may have taken of round brilliant in the past which will pop out the arrows on the diamond like those in hearts and arrows ideal cut?

 

[kenny]

If you want even more enlargement buy an old 24 mm lens from KEH and a reversing adaptor like Nikon's BR 2A

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=nikon+br2a&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=

Just make sure the lens and the reversing ring you select have the same filter size, such as 52mm

This is an eye-popping close up of just the GIA laser inscription on the girdle of a 0.26 ct green diamond using an old Nikkor 24mm, BR2A reversing ring on the fully extended bellows.

 

[kenny]

Do u have any picture that you may have taken of round brilliant in the past which will pop out the arrows on the diamond like those in hearts and arrows ideal cut?

This isn't the greatest.
The diamond is set ... but ... here's my ACA 0.83 ct E VVS1.

 

[gr8leo87]

Do u have any picture that you may have taken of round brilliant in the past which will pop out the arrows on the diamond like those in hearts and arrows ideal cut?

This isn't the greatest.
The diamond is set ... but ... here's my ACA 0.83 ct E VVS1.

This is exactly what I'm looking for. So I know now that this all can be done within a 3000 dollars budget and I don't have to spend a fortune! Thanks so much. Keep those beautiful pictures coming if you have more.

 

[kenny]

Keep those beautiful pictures coming if you have more.

Thanks.
Instead of reposting, here are just two of my many threads here.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/pop-the-cork-i-just-bought-the-first-ocatvia.132337/page-3']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/pop-the-cork-i-just-bought-the-first-ocatvia.132337/page-3[/URL]

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/fancy-colored-diamond-collection.159746/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/fancy-colored-diamond-collection.159746/[/URL]

 

[kenny]

I should add ...

Nikon's D600 had an issue.
Oil from the shutter somehow splattered onto the sensor.
Nikon will fix any D600 for free.

If you buy a used one make sure it got the fix.
Better yet get a D610 because the issue is reported to be resolved on those.
But because of the issue the D600s are very attractively priced ... just be sure it went back to nikon to get the free fix.

These are full frame sensors, which I recommend ... but the smaller DX sensor would be adequate too and save a few bucks.
The smaller-sensor D7000 D7100 and D7200 would work with all the other gear I recommended.

If you can swing it get the D610 or even better a D750.

Don't skimp of the tripod.
At these high enlargements you want the heaviest most-solid one you can get.
Some people even hang weighs or a bag of sand from the central column.

 

[gr8leo87]

So here's my shopping list :

Camera body : Nikon D610
A Nikon lense 105mm manual focus
A bellows
A light box
A heavy tripod for stability
And a monitor (optional)

Anything I'm missing?

 

[kenny]

So here's my shopping list :

Camera body : Nikon D610
A Nikon lense 105mm manual focus
A bellows
A light box
A heavy tripod for stability
And a monitor (optional)

Anything I'm missing?

You forgot the Manfrotto 410 3-axis geared tripod head.
IMO it's mandatory for this high-magnification work.
Before I got mine I was pulling my hair out trying to make tiny movements of the camera.

Since you apparently are getting this set up I want to mention a couple things while I have your eyeballs.
PS does not allow private messaging or posting of personal contact info.

It will seem like the D610s bulging hand-grip is in the way and prevents mounting the body onto the bellows.
Here's the work around:
The bellows has two stages, one for the body, and one for the lens.
The ring in the body stage can actually rotate 90 degrees for taking vertical pics, and it must be in the vertical position to get the D610 body on.
Before mounting the body you must do two things.
1. Move the body stage of the bellows to the edge of the lower rail.
2. Press the release button on the body stage of the bellows (see left side of pic below) to rotate the bellows ring to the vertical position.
Mine is VERY tight and I must use all my fingers and press firmly to rotate the ring ... it's a bit of an ouch!
Then line up the dots of the body and the bellows so the body fits flush, then rotate the bellows onto the body on as you would a lens.
(Actually you'll be rotating the body onto the bellows.)
After mounting the body onto the bellows press the bellows button again to rotate the body back to the horizontal position.

Focusing and adjusting the enlargement with a bellows can be confusing and frustrating till you 'get it'.
There are 3 knobs and confusingly they all affect focus but you must learn which two knobs to NOT use for focusing.
In the below pic do not use the top two knobs for focusing, only use the bottom knob.



Each stage has a knob that moves only that stage (after releasing the lock located on the other side).
Move the stages get the bellows extension you want, longer extension = higher magnification.
The knob on the bottom moves the entire system forward and back for focusing.
The confusing part is rotating both of the top knobs not only changes the enlargement, it also changes the focus ... but don't use them for that since it changes the enlargement.

Most tripods come with a head (the top part) that you shouldn't use because at these high magnifications the movements are too coarse.
The best tripods, like Gitzo, can be purchased without a head since these customers often want a particular type of head.

At high magnification just finding the damned diamond can be difficult.
The camera can see only a tiny arc of space and turning those 3 knobs of the Manfrotto head one at a time takes a long time.
Solution: use your finger.
Place it in front of the lens and move your finger till you can see it.
This tells you if the camera looking too high or low, left or right, or if the system is positioned too close to or far from the diamond (aka focus).

The whole system is heavy so keep the weight of the system centered over the center of the tripod for max stability and safety from tipping over, and for minimum vibration transfer.

About the lens ... it's not so much that is has to be manual focus (though you'd never use auto focus for macro work) it's that the lens must have an actual aperture ring you can turn with your fingers since the bellows can't relay the aperture-changing signal from the body to the modern G-series lenses.
They have no aperture ring.
I strongly recommend this lens only which Nikon still makes new.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/36856-USA/Nikon_1455_Telephoto_105mm_f_2_8_Micro.html

A used one is fine as long as you buy it from a reputable place that serves pro photographers like KEH, Adorama or B&H, NOT eBay or Amazon.
New, this lens comes with the wonderful real-metal $48 lens hood, model HS-14.
If your used lens does not come with this hood definitely buy one to shield the lens from stray light which fogs up the dark areas of your pics.



If you feel competent to check it out personally and live in a big city perhaps Craigslist would work ... that's how I bought mine.

Unfortunately depth of field (focus) is terribly shallow at these mags.
You might be temped to increase the DOF by using the smallest apertures like f22 and f32, but don't.
The smaller the aperture the greater the overall blurryness from diffraction.
For this lens around f8 is the optimum balance of sharpness and DOF.
Compose and focus at f2.8 for max brightness and critical focus at minimum DOF, then stop down to f8 to take the pic.

Learn about focus-stacking in Photoshop, Elements, or other post-processing programs.
You take several pics, each focused at different points, then the software combines them.
I intend to try this when I have time.

Plan to spend a great deal of time learning how to use the gear and improve your results.

The PB-6, pictured above is fine but I sold mine and got a PB-4 because it has movements.
They were similarly priced.
While a hassle to learn, movements are groovy for controlling the plane of focus such as when the diamond or the ring is not parallel to the camera, or when shooting objects that are not side by side.

Also while the PB-6 is fine the PB-4 is older and is really built like a tank.
Great for photographing diamonds in war zones.

 

[gr8leo87]

So here's my shopping list :

Camera body : Nikon D610
A Nikon lense 105mm manual focus
A bellows
A light box
A heavy tripod for stability
And a monitor (optional)

Anything I'm missing?

You forgot the Manfrotto 410 3-axis geared tripod head.
IMO it's mandatory for this high-magnification work.
Before I got mine I was pulling my hair out trying to make tiny movements of the camera.

Since you apparently are getting this set up I want to mention a couple things while I have your eyeballs.
PS does not allow private messaging or posting of personal contact info.

It will seem like the D610s bulging hand-grip is in the way and prevents mounting the body onto the bellows.
Here's the work around:
The bellows has two stages, one for the body, and one for the lens.
The ring in the body stage can actually rotate 90 degrees for taking vertical pics, and it must be in the vertical position to get the D610 body on.
Before mounting the body you must do two things.
1. Move the body stage of the bellows to the edge of the lower rail.
2. Press the release button on the body stage of the bellows (see left side of pic below) to rotate the bellows ring to the vertical position.
Mine is VERY tight and I must use all my fingers and press firmly to rotate the ring ... it's a bit of an ouch!
Then line up the dots of the body and the bellows so the body fits flush, then rotate the bellows onto the body on as you would a lens.
(Actually you'll be rotating the body onto the bellows.)
After mounting the body onto the bellows press the bellows button again to rotate the body back to the horizontal position.

Focusing and adjusting the enlargement with a bellows can be confusing and frustrating till you 'get it'.
There are 3 knobs and confusingly they all affect focus but you must learn which two knobs to NOT use for focusing.
In the below pic do not use the top two knobs for focusing, only use the bottom knob.



Each stage has a knob that moves only that stage (after releasing the lock located on the other side).
Move the stages get the bellows extension you want, longer extension = higher magnification.
The knob on the bottom moves the entire system forward and back for focusing.
The confusing part is rotating both of the top knobs not only changes the enlargement, it also changes the focus ... but don't use them for that since it changes the enlargement.

Most tripods come with a head (the top part) that you shouldn't use because at these high magnifications the movements are too coarse.
The best tripods, like Gitzo, can be purchased without a head since these customers often want a particular type of head.

At high magnification just finding the damned diamond can be difficult.
The camera can see only a tiny arc of space and turning those 3 knobs of the Manfrotto head one at a time takes a long time.
Solution: use your finger.
Place it in front of the lens and move your finger till you can see it.
This tells you if the camera looking too high or low, left or right, or if the system is positioned too close to or far from the diamond (aka focus).

The whole system is heavy so keep the weight of the system centered over the center of the tripod for max stability and safety from tipping over, and for minimum vibration transfer.

About the lens ... it's not so much that is has to be manual focus (though you'd never use auto focus for macro work) it's that the lens must have an actual aperture ring you can turn with your fingers since the bellows can't relay the aperture-changing signal from the body to the modern G-series lenses.
They have no aperture ring.
I strongly recommend this lens only which Nikon still makes new.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/36856-USA/Nikon_1455_Telephoto_105mm_f_2_8_Micro.html

A used one is fine as long as you buy it from a reputable place that serves pro photographers like KEH, Adorama or B&H, NOT eBay or Amazon.
New, this lens comes with the wonderful real-metal $48 lens hood, model HS-14.
If your used lens does not come with this hood definitely buy one to shield the lens from stray light which fogs up the dark areas of your pics.



If you feel competent to check it out personally and live in a big city perhaps Craigslist would work ... that's how I bought mine.

Unfortunately depth of field (focus) is terribly shallow at these mags.
You might be temped to increase the DOF by using the smallest apertures like f22 and f32, but don't.
The smaller the aperture the greater the overall blurryness from diffraction.
For this lens around f8 is the optimum balance of sharpness and DOF.
Compose and focus at f2.8 for max brightness and critical focus at minimum DOF, then stop down to f8 to take the pic.

Learn about focus-stacking in Photoshop, Elements, or other post-processing programs.
You take several pics, each focused at different points, then the software combines them.
I intend to try this when I have time.

Plan to spend a great deal of time learning how to use the gear and improve your results.

The PB-6, pictured above is fine but I sold mine and got a PB-4 because it has movements.
They were similarly priced.
While a hassle to learn, movements are groovy for controlling the plane of focus such as when the diamond or the ring is not parallel to the camera, or when shooting objects that are not side by side.

Also while the PB-6 is fine the PB-4 is older and is really built like a tank.
Great for photographing diamonds in war zones. [emoji38]

Dear kenny

Thanks a lot for all that effort you have put into writing all that I really appreciate it. I'm still trying to get my head around all that information I do understand many of your points. Yes it's a bummer there's no private messaging on PS. But I would still ask you questions on this thread once I have the initial gear setup.

Thanks so much again!!!

 

[kenny]

You're welcome.

Great gem photography is way cool.
I love sharing whatever knowledge I've accumulated.

I welcome your questions, and also may post other tips here in the coming days.
Too bad this thread's Subject title means it won't attract people potentially interesting in all this.

I was thinking of asking admin if I could have a pinned thread about all this because the existing "How to Take Good Diamond Pics" thread is, understandably, useful for the gear that 99% of the people actually have.
Few are going to go where you and I are going ... though some may enjoy reading about it.

With a dedicated pinned thread I wouldn't have to spend many hours retyping all this every year or so.

 

[gr8leo87]

You're welcome.

Great gem photography is way cool.
I love sharing whatever knowledge I've accumulated.

I welcome your questions, and also may post other tips here in the coming days.
Too bad this thread's Subject title means it won't attract people potentially interesting in all this.

I was thinking of asking admin if I could have a pinned thread about all this because the existing "How to Take Good Diamond Pics" thread is, understandably, useful for the gear that 99% of the people have.

Then I wouldn't have to spend many hours retyping all this every year or so.

Or you could just save this all information on a word file and keep pasting it to people like me who are interested. Like gypsy does with her diamond 101 post. "the entire purpose of faceting a diamond...."

 

[kenny]

Great idea!

Thanks.

 

[redbeard]

So...I'm guessing the answer to my question about taking photos of the ASET results is a big "NO"

Given this, do you have any advice for an amateur with an ASET scope on the way to judge the quality of a cushion modified brilliant?

Thanks guys!

 

[queradas]

I'll call them right now.

Just to eliminate any doubt, here's the link: http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/cushion-cut/3.03-carat-h-color-vs2-clarity-sku-597747

Dark zones are visible in quite big angle range during tilting. Most probably both eyes will see darkness in same time if you observe the diamond from short distance. in such case it significantly reduces brightness and brilliancy .The phenomena is similar to nail head in round diamond or round diamonds with very shallow pavilion.

ASET image does not give enough information for this diamond, you need check it in naked eye.

This post is quite correct and is elegant in its simplicity, I think it could use for a little explanation especially for those interpreting James Allen photos in the future.

1) James Allen photo setup has the camera equivalent to a viewer at around 9 inches away. Most people don't view their diamonds that close so just because the diamond would reflect your head at 9 inches doesn't mean in normal viewing further away it would reflect yours. Your head isn't black so it won't be as black or dark as the camera reflection in this photo but it would still likely have some reduced brightness and brilliancy from reflecting your head instead of light from the horizon.

But really the setup of their photo and videos makes it very difficult if not impossible to credibly predict nuances of brightness and brilliance under the tables from these diamonds under normal viewing conditions and tilt.


2) The ASET(which won't be particularly useful for determining how bright these regions will be) as it is one static image at a defined viewing distance, although it will show blue in many of those areas where it is black, but that isn't going to help you that much. What would concern me in most of these 4 main cushions is if the darkness will persist over a tilt range of 10 - 15 degrees from faceup under the tips of the 4 mains in the centre of the table at normal viewing distances. That is likely the case with most of these and that darkness may by offputting to some as it will persist. Alterternatively(unlikely) it might not be such a big deal if it switches from dark to light under a slight tilt or when you move the diamond slightly further away.

3) People vary and a contrasty diamond such as this one with some persistantly dark regions may be okay for many consumers especially to fit a price point or given an often lack of availability of better alternatives(3ct range is rare to find top performing cushions and they are often very expensive similar to the cost of a round). Top cut quality in cushion modified brilliants is rarely the goal of the cutter nor the standard of most consumers buying and enjoying them.

 

[kenny]

James Allen photo setup has the camera equivalent to a viewer at around 9 inches away.

I'm not a diamond vendor so I have no dog in this fight but I'm very curious how you know this.
Online diamond vendors know they live or die by their photography so they may consider their photo set ups to be very proprietary.

What is your source for this claim?
Did they tell you?
Did you work there?

Do you have a way to determine that based on what you see in the photos? If so, I love to hear the explanation.
Did you somehow find out the focal length of the macro lens and sensor size they use and what lens extension mechanism and length they use?

Lastly, is that 9 inches from the diamond to the sensor or from the diamond to the front of the lens (or lens hood if used)?
This is important because that distance can differ by as much as 20 inches in my set up.
This is the macro lens, Nikkor micro 200mm f4 that allows the camera to be further away from the diamond than any other lens on the market.
Since greater working distance results in less black reflection in the diamond, I'd think this is the lens the most knowledgeable diamond vendors should be using.
They'd want to experiment with whether or not to use the lens hood though.
It does reduce ghosting but it brings the dreaded black circle 3 inches closer to the diamond ... eating up 3" of the precious working distance you paid so dearly for with this lens.

 

[queradas]

James Allen photo setup has the camera equivalent to a viewer at around 9 inches away.

I'm not a diamond vendor so I have no dog in this fight but I'm very curious how you know this.

Inferred from the amount of darkness seen in rounds with known proportions. Whether its 8.0 - 10 inches(it should be in this range) or if it varies slightly isn't the important part, just that it is too close and the lense shadow is so significant as to obscure an estimation of the true brightness and brilliance of the diamond.

 

[queradas]

Inferred from the amount of darkness seen in rounds with known proportions. Whether its 8.0 - 10 inches(it should be in this range) or if it varies slightly isn't the important part, just that it is too close and the lense shadow is so significant as to obscure an estimation of the true brightness and brilliance of the diamond.

On this diamond its closer to 8 inches. http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-dia...arat-i-color-vs2-clarity-ideal-cut-sku-290425

When I say 8 inches its from the middle of the viewer's head to the diamond.