Custom Tapered Baguette Setting Help

[EvangelineG]

I have been looking for a setting for my .99c AVR. I’ve been looking at settings pretty obsessively for weeks and weeks, and actually getting more confused about what I wanted as time went on, and kind of burnt out and crabby about the whole thing. We decided to go to one last local place on the weekend (we’ve been to pretty well every independent jeweller in the city), and the designer was running late for our appointment, and so her assistant basically let us play in all the open cases on our own while we waited. This was fun! I tried on pretty well every single ring they had in there…styles I never would have bothered with when having someone pull each one for me, because I would have felt like I was wasting their time. I found myself going back to a ring with tapered baguette sidestones again and again…and again. I hadn’t even really considered this style before, but absolutely loved how the flanking baguettes had “gleam” instead of sparkle which didn’t compete with the centre diamond, but just added to the overall brightness and “life” of the ring. So elegant!

That ring as it was off the rack was not for me (YG, band a little clunky, no side detailing), and so I did some googling when I got home, and found the first pic of a ring that gave me the “that’s the one” pull of excitement. I think I finally have my inspiration ring!!

http://www.kwiat.com/fine-diamond-j...apered-baguettes-vintage-style/p/58200/99/0/0




It would need a few tweaks to be perfect for me, but do I ever love this ring! So now I have a million questions, and would love some help solidifying my ideas.

First off I am going the custom route; brand names mean nothing to me, I am assuming I can do way, way better price-wise than the Kwiat ring (not that they would accept an outside diamond anyway), and I want some changes. Already having an AVR limits me as far as some of the popular PS options (as well as locally), but that’s OK because I think I am perfectly happy going CAD with hand engraving rather than having the expense of hand forged anyway.

As soon as I have my ideas organized, I was going to get quotes from the following:

GOG –since my H got the diamond from them. They have a custom bench there, but there doesn’t seem to be much buzz about their work on PS, or a lot of examples to access online?

ERD- Redroze’s new ring is amazing, and I have seen many other examples of their work that I really love.

David Klass- I know he gets some mixed reviews around here, but I recently had a ¾ eternity made by him, and it was such a seamless, pleasant experience. The ring has hand engraving on the sides that is gorgeously done, and I would be very happy to work with him again.

The one local place that I think I would feel comfortable trying. They seem extremely passionate and committed to getting it right. They send the actual work away to a bench in Montreal, to one guy with reportedly a great deal of experience. I examined a lot of pieces when I was playing with the jewellery on the weekend- I did see a couple of flaws, one ring had twisted prongs, and the pave on one ring was of an uneven depth in one spot, but that was two rings out of 50 or so; in general it looked very well made. I saw examples of milgrain, some simple engraving and filigree work that was nicely done. It might be worth at least getting the quote for the advantage of going local?

Is there someone I am overlooking that would be good at this sort of ring?

OK, next up the actual design of the ring and the aforementioned “tweaks”. I have a lot of questions, because I really want to get this right. I don’t see a re-set anytime in my future, or rather I would prefer not to see one. Thanks for bearing with me!

 

[SB621]

Ohhhh this is a stunning setting! i do agree that CAD is probably your best bet as you will want to check out the different options you have for sides (size) and other details that I think a CAD can show you. I think ERD and GOG are the front runners. I'm on the fence about DK. I have done a few custom projects with him and my major issue is I think he gets proportions wrong. You really need to go through many CADs to adjust and I'm just not sure his CAD person is as detailed oriented as I need. If you are patient and willing to put forth the effort DK is probably the most cost effective, though I think ERD or GOG would be my first choice.

 

[artdecolover71]

Hi-I just had GOG do a custom ring for me-Timeless Designs in the city is the actual bench they used to design/cast my ring. It was a good experience-if you have any specific questions, let me know! That Kwiat setting is gorgeous!

 

[Slickk]

I love your inspiration ring and just recently had David klass make this exact ring for me minus the engraving (see avatar). Love the engraving that you would like to add.
I will say that my ring looks just like the kwiat one as far as proportion and height. For me dk was easy to work with and his prices very reasonable. Love your stone! Good luck.

 

[Gypsy]

I think you are on the right track. I love that setting.

 

[EvangelineG]

SB621 Thanks for the input! I will pay extra attention to the proportions if I go with DK, and really nitpick those CADs...actually I will post them here for help nitpicking.

Artdecolover71 and Sandeek, I would love to see your ring/more photos of your ring if you are sharing photos? Do you have SMTB threads? I looked, but came up dry…

MissBliss I will check out CvB too. Thanks!

Gypsy Thanks for the encouragement…and can I just say I love your avatar! Years ago we had a most beloved black and white cat with golden eyes that we called Cuervo. Every time I see a post from you I think of her!

So my next questions..

1. Baguette proportions...I am assuming that the diamond shown with the Kwiat setting is much larger than mine, but I would like the baguettes and band scaled to my diamond to give similar proportions. To give me a rough idea I enlarged the example pic on my screen until the centre stone had a 6.4cm diameter (representing the mm in my stone), and measured the baguettes. To get the exact same proportions of baguette to stone, with my just under 1c stone, the baguette would have to be about 2mm at the fat end tapering to about 1.3mm. I definitely want a thin, delicate looking band, but read on here that any thinner than 2mm may cause structural issues (do not want that!). I really, really don't want to end up with fat baguettes and a thick band looking clunky and detracting from my stone, but also do not want a ring that is asking for trouble strength and structure wise. What do you think should be my thinnest band/baguette option for both practical and aesthetic purposes?

2. Metal type...the inspiration ring is listed as platinum, but it sure looks different than the other platinum rings they have pictured on the site. The rest of the Kwiat vintage pieces with a similar metal look are listed as 18k, and I am wondering if they are unplated to give the colour to the metal that I am seeing? A misprint maybe? A different platinum finish or alloy?

3. Baguette prongs vs bar vs groove set...Not sure about the way baguette meets side of diamond? Do the prongs make it look a little uneven from top down view? Maybe just because the metal doesn't blend into the diamond the way that shiny platinum or rhodium plated gold would?
Not sure if I wouldn't prefer a tidy little bar where the baguette meets the round like on this Tiffany ring:
http://www.tiffany.com/Engagement/Item.aspx?GroupSKU=GRP10025
Or in this VC example he says that it is "groove set" (although I say it is holding on there by magic, clearly he is a wizard, it looks so seamless!)
http://www.victorcanera.com/jewelry/engagement-rings/cushion-and-tapered-baguette-trilogy

Thanks for reading, and thanks for any opinions or advice!

 

[Slickk]

Here's my DK custom HW inspired ring as you asked. I had the center stone set super low like the kwiat ring. It has ~.40 tcw tapered baguettes on a 7.5 finger.

 

[Gypsy]

I would ask ERD (or whomever) to shoot for a similar look with the baguettes and then send you a pic.

I like unplated white gold and I like platinum. Go try on some platinum and see if you like it with your skin tone.

they do look slightly uneven in that pic. Hmm.

 

[artdecolover71]

I can definitely share pics...but don't have it yet- currently awaiting my dh's re-proposal
Mine actually has a similar profile but mine is an emerald cut with trapezoids and is set a little lower. I had timeless do the similar details though with lots of hand engraving and milgrain. It's quite a delicate and detailed piece.

Edited to add: my shank is 2.2 mm wide and I did mine in platinum-

 

[artdecolover71]

what size stone is the kwiat one? I just realized that is as low set as it could be considered its depth/size. Mine is smaller, hence lower set.

 

[EvangelineG]

Sandeek…Thanks for the pics! I can’t tell you how much I love your ring. So elegant! Can I ask how big your centre stone is to get an idea of proportion with the .40tcw baguettes? And is yours in platinum?

I also love your eternity band! Did DK make that for you too? I might have to put one like that on my wish list…

Gypsy…as I’ve been looking around at rings I think my preference is actually for unplated WG (a whiter alloy), then platinum, and the plated WG last. There is a local jeweller who works a lot with unplated 14k, and his pieces have this lovely vintage-y, kind of satin finish to them, and look to me more similar to my inspiration picture than the platinum that I’ve seen. That’s why I was wondering if it was mislabelled?

I actually like rose gold best with my skin tone, but have finally decided after much back and forth that I am going to get the e-ring in platinum or WG, and then have mismatched bands. I like that look, and then I won’t be worried about getting tired of the RG and having to do a re-set.

Artdecolover…A re-proposal, eh? That’s what my ring is for too. We are calling it a “re-engagement ring”. I look forward to seeing it if you decide to post it when you receive it. I looked up Timeless Designs, and they have some beautiful stuff on their website. Good to know that GOG uses that bench. I bet it is going to be amazing!

I don’t know what size the Kwiat stone is. I am just assuming around a 2c+ because of the proportions? I actually think I want my diamond set a little higher than in the inspiration ring, which will probably end up a similar height off the finger because of my smaller stone. I’d like to be able to see the culet over a 2mm band, and don’t want it hidden in the bottom of the ring like in the example pic (love looking at that gorgeous little point!). So since my stone depth is 4.10mm, that will still only put the height from finger to table at about the 6.5mm mark, which seems like a nice medium-ish height, I think?

 

[artdecolover71]

I am sure it will be gorgeous, looking forward to seeing who you choose and the final product

Yes, I will post a pic -probably the end of May.

That is cute that this is also your re- engagement ring!

 

[lisalaz13]

Sandeek where is your gorgeous baguette eternity band from?

 

[Slickk]

Lisalaz the baguette band was bought preloved but originally was purchased at Shane. Here is the link.
http://www.shaneco.com/detail/round-and-baguette-diamond-wedding-band/41002604