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Custom setting vendor needed for 1925 Tiffany Asscher ER

john_john

john_john

Rough_Rock
Joined
Apr 16, 2014
Messages
55
Hi PS community,

I'm looking to reproduce this antique setting: http://erstwhilejewelry.com/product...ut-diamond-engagement-ring-by-tiffany-and-co/.

I live in San Francisco and would be open to any vendor in the US who would be able to recreate this ring beautifully.

I've already reached out to David Clay Jewelers. From reading several other threads I've seen the following custom setting vendors mentioned:

Joe Escobar in Campbell
Van Craynest
Brian Gavin Diamonds
Single Stone
23rd St Jewelers
Knoxjewelers.biz
antiqueengagementrings.com
Engagment Rings Direct
Leon Mete
Victor Canera
Whiteflash


Given the setting I'm looking to have reproduced, who would you advise that I should reach out to for this type of setting? What do you think the cost ought to be in platinum to have this custom made?
 
Singlestone would be my first choice. Handforged is much more expensive then CAD though. I feel like ERD could do this CAD in platinum for around 2-3k but I'd be surprised if SS was less than 5k.

ETA: It's a beautiful setting and I'm really interested in following your journey on this one. Please keep us informed!
ETA: Spelling and grammar, duh.
 
I have only great things to say about Joe Escobar Diamonds in Campbell. Erik is terrific to work with there and their workmanship is superb.

Having said that, they carry mostly somewhat more contemporary designs (although they can and do do antique-inspired pieces all the time). So you may want to also check out Eric Trabert Goldsmiths in SF, who have more vintage-y pieces and overall a somewhat more antique aesthetic. And of course, Lang Antiques on Sutter St in SF is a terrific resource for making a setting like that one...they really know how to do antique-inspired settings and have zillions of alternatives and bands etc to further inspire you. I'd probably start there, get a quote, see how it feels to you and then also get other quotes from either other local folks or places like Singlestone in LA, as mentioned above.

You couldn't really go wrong starting with any of them and seeing who you work best with and who fits your budget.
Good luck and please keep us posted!
 
I would have Victor Canera or Steven Kirsch make it. It is a gorgeous setting, and it would be worth having it done well.

That is a gorgeous setting! I love Tiffany antique rings!

I will say though, that the antique ring looks a little too delicate. Be sure your shank is at least 1.8-2mm.
 
diamondseeker2006|1397682199|3654593 said:
I would have Victor Canera or Steven Kirsch make it. It is a gorgeous setting, and it would be worth having it done well.

That is a gorgeous setting! I love Tiffany antique rings!

I will say though, that the antique ring looks a little too delicate. Be sure your shank is at least 1.8-2mm.
Click to expand...

I would not. That setting is easy to do a cad version of, and I think it would be a bad idea to spend as much as your stone on the setting.
 
The original was clearly hand forged or assembled from die struck and would look very soft cast.
There is a lot going on with that setting that is not apparent at first glance.
To do it right is a lot of work.
 
Ok. So in your other thread you wanted a bargain asscher.

MOST of the vendors in this thread are going to cost you MORE than that asscher for a setting. Singlestone is at 6k for a simple setting. Victor will be at about 3-5k.

23rd street is not affordable. BGD and WF and ERD are good values for the quality. But they aren't cheap by any means.

You need to start at a budget. THEN we can recommend vendors.

Because you are probably not going to be able to afford some of the most commonly favored vendors on here for custom work.
 
If you can afford up to 2k for the setting try http://www.loveaffairdiamonds.com/ formerly half of jewels by erica grace, loveaffair does lovely custom and is used to the delicacy of antique pieces.

You can also get a quote from Joe Escobar, but I live near them and their custom settings are usually on par with Victor for the quoting.
 
Gypsy|1397686980|3654633 said:
Ok. So in your other thread you wanted a bargain asscher.

MOST of the vendors in this thread are going to cost you MORE than that asscher for a setting. Singlestone is at 6k for a simple setting. Victor will be at about 3-5k.

23rd street is not affordable. BGD and WF and ERD are good values for the quality. But they aren't cheap by any means.

You need to start at a budget. THEN we can recommend vendors.

Because you are probably not going to be able to afford some of the most commonly favored vendors on here for custom work.
Click to expand...

Totally agree. Honestly if "budget" but quality is your goal is say get quotes from CVB and David klass.
 
Who is CVB, again?

I still hestitate on David Klass, I'd want you to post every single CAD if you go with him. But he is affordable.

I would get a quote from ERD though. That might be worth a shot.
 
Gypsy|1397688384|3654654 said:
Who is CVB, again?

I still hestitate on David Klass, I'd want you to post every single CAD if you go with him. But he is affordable.

I would get a quote from ERD though. That might be worth a shot.
Click to expand...
She's an Etsy vendor. Has done a few rings on here so far, I know someone is currently at the CAD stage with her. Making the very blingy floral ring if you remember?
She made this too
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/sapphire-ring-w-floating-halo-from-cvb-inspired-design.197804/page-2']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/sapphire-ring-w-floating-halo-from-cvb-inspired-design.197804/page-2[/URL]

I know DK isn't everybody's favorite but I recently followed him on Facebook and the things he produces seem well made when they are in this genre. I think this design would be in either of these designers " wheelhouse " and I know at least CVB is in CA

heres an example of some of her earrings, i think they look very well made

il_135.jpg
 
Niel|1397688770|3654660 said:
Gypsy|1397688384|3654654 said:
Who is CVB, again?

I still hestitate on David Klass, I'd want you to post every single CAD if you go with him. But he is affordable.

I would get a quote from ERD though. That might be worth a shot.
Click to expand...
She's an Etsy vendor. Has done a few rings on here so far, I know someone is currently at the CAD stage with her. Making the very blingy floral ring if you remember?
She made this too
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/sapphire-ring-w-floating-halo-from-cvb-inspired-design.197804/page-2']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/sapphire-ring-w-floating-halo-from-cvb-inspired-design.197804/page-2[/URL]

I know DK isn't everybody's favorite but I recently followed him on Facebook and the things he produces seem well made when they are in this genre. I think this design would be in either of these designers " wheelhouse " and I know at least CVB is in CA

heres an example of some of her earrings, i think they look very well made
Click to expand...
Interesting. This is the first I'm seeing of this vendor. The design does look like it fits what they do. So it might be a good recommendation. Obviously as I have no knowledge of them I can't recommend them, but... the work does appear nice.
 
Gypsy said:
Niel|1397688770|3654660 said:
Gypsy|1397688384|3654654 said:
Who is CVB, again?

I still hestitate on David Klass, I'd want you to post every single CAD if you go with him. But he is affordable.

I would get a quote from ERD though. That might be worth a shot.
Click to expand...
She's an Etsy vendor. Has done a few rings on here so far, I know someone is currently at the CAD stage with her. Making the very blingy floral ring if you remember?
She made this too
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/sapphire-ring-w-floating-halo-from-cvb-inspired-design.197804/page-2']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/sapphire-ring-w-floating-halo-from-cvb-inspired-design.197804/page-2[/URL]

I know DK isn't everybody's favorite but I recently followed him on Facebook and the things he produces seem well made when they are in this genre. I think this design would be in either of these designers " wheelhouse " and I know at least CVB is in CA

heres an example of some of her earrings, i think they look very well made
Click to expand...
Interesting. This is the first I'm seeing of this vendor. The design does look like it fits what they do. So it might be a good recommendation. Obviously as I have no knowledge of them I can't recommend them, but... the work does appear nice.
Click to expand...
I am currently getting something done by her. I am not at the CAD stage and of course have not seen the finished product so can't say about the quality IN HAND but she's an absolute pleasure to work with and at least in photos I'm very happy with her work. And being in CA might make it easier.

uploadfromtaptalk1397690848646.jpg
 
For a replica of this specific ring, I'd go with David Klass on a budget, Single Stone if you have an unlimited budget. Schubach's has a very nice custom bench, but are likely middle of the cost range. I have been very impressed with what I'm seeing coming out of CVB, but I don't know what her price point is. I would check in with her, because she seems to really "get" vintage design.

Lastly, Leigh Jay Nacht has very similar settings (they are both real antiques and replicas) that seem pretty good and affordable. I would check out their site to see if anything strikes your fancy.

This particular ring is a very common vintage style, but it's difficult to find it as a true antique. Jewels by Grace and Love Affair Diamonds both might be able to tell you where you might find an authentic vintage setting of this style.
 
I am kinda lukewarm on David Klass as well I know people here rave about the guy but he murdered/destroyed something for me last year. I think Erica aka Love Affair Diamonds is a better choice.
 
Wow, thank you everyone for the recommendations. As Gypsy and Niel mentioned, I am working on a bit of a budget which I should have mentioned initially. I'm trying to do the setting for under $3k, but I ultimately want it to be very close to the original. If more money is required to ensure that, I'll boost the budget.

David Clay Jewelers (in SF) quoted me $2600 and said it would be completely hand carved and fabricated by the master jeweler (no CAD). Lang Antiques (also in SF) only recommends David Clay for custom work, so I felt good knowing they think highly of their shop. Still, I have to see their previous work to see if they've made settings like this before.

I'll plan to get quotes from some or all of the following tomorrow:

loveaffairdiamonds
joe escobar
CVB
Eric Trabert Goldsmiths
ERD
Leigh Jay Nacht
Jewels by Grace

This has been a really fun process. I'll definitely provide updates and post to "Show Me The Bling" once it's completed. :D
 
WHEW! I am so relieved you had a reasonable budget planned for the setting. Given the stone budget I was a bit concerned that we were talking the 800-1000 range.

If Lang's recommends David Clay... that's a good thing. But I would want to see similar work in that style before committing.
 
Try Eternity by Yoni, I gave him sample pics of what I wanted and he pulled it off very close to my budget. He does all milgrain by hand as well.
 
gemmyblond|1397681881|3654589 said:
So you may want to also check out Eric Trabert Goldsmiths in SF, who have more vintage-y pieces and overall a somewhat more antique aesthetic.
Click to expand...

Some of their reviews don't sound too good on Yelp in terms of customer service, timing / delays and aggressive "business" behaviour. At least all comments on workmanship seems good.
 
glitterpants|1397790536|3655356 said:
I saved pics of that setting the first time I saw it on EJ's site. It is so lovely!! :love:

Have you considered contacting Mark Broumand for a quote too? This setting has a somewhat similar feel:
http://www.markbroumand.com/2.06ct-antique-cushion-brilliant-diamond-engagement-ring-3389-1d10437468/

Looking forward to seeing the final ring!
Click to expand...

That's a good idea. One of my friends, who knows jewelry, just worked with Mark Broumand on a setting and was very happy with the results.
 
Gypsy|1397791899|3655364 said:
glitterpants|1397790536|3655356 said:
I saved pics of that setting the first time I saw it on EJ's site. It is so lovely!! :love:

Have you considered contacting Mark Broumand for a quote too? This setting has a somewhat similar feel:
http://www.markbroumand.com/2.06ct-antique-cushion-brilliant-diamond-engagement-ring-3389-1d10437468/

Looking forward to seeing the final ring!
Click to expand...

That's a good idea. One of my friends, who knows jewelry, just worked with Mark Broumand on a setting and was very happy with the results.
Click to expand...

Awesome. I just reached out to Mark Broumand as well. Thanks for the recommendation!
 
PLEASE keep us informed as the process unfolds! It's a bummer when people sail off into he sunset and we never see the results of such an interesting project..... best of luck!!!!!!!!!!
 
So I got a few quotes and I ended up deciding to have the setting work done with Joe Escobar Jewelers. To my surprise, the hand fabrication was only 10% more vs the wax model/casting. I chose hand fabrication given the dainty dimensions of the shank.

So the diamond will arrive this week and in about 4-6 weeks I'll have some fun updates :D
 
john_john|1398141987|3657623 said:
So I got a few quotes and I ended up deciding to have the setting work done with Joe Escobar Jewelers. To my surprise, the hand fabrication was only 10% more vs the wax model/casting. I chose hand fabrication given the dainty dimensions of the shank.

So the diamond will arrive this week and in about 4-6 weeks I'll have some fun updates :D
Click to expand...


Awesome! I can't wait to see the setting Joe E does fantastic work!
 
Hey everyone,

Joe Escobar Diamonds finished the reproduction of the setting. Unfortunately, my fiance and I both had problems with the setting and I need to ask you all if one of their explanations sounds reasonable regarding the prongs.

So first, here's a link to an album with five comparison photos of the original setting and the reproduction:http://imgur.com/a/9vRSo
45-front-comparison.jpg
above-comparison.jpg
front-comparison.jpg
hand-comparison.jpg
side-comparison.jpg

These are the differences we saw and were not happy with:

1. The side stones area in the original setting was much softer, rounder, and not as long as the reproduction. The reproduction's side stone area looks sharp and long in comparison.

2. The height of the crown/head was less in the original setting.

3. The gaps in the cathedral setting are much larger in the reproduction than the original setting. The shape of those gaps are also very different than the original setting.

4. The prongs in the reproduction are nothing like the ribbon-like prongs in the original setting.

5. With all these issues, the silhouette of the reproduction isn't as beautiful as the original setting (most noticeable in the hand shot comparison).

So I need your advice and thoughts on the path forward. What should I expect could be done to address the problems we have with the reproduction? Should I offer to pay more for the corrective work?

Erik explained to me that the master jeweler said the prongs in the original setting would have looked like they do in the reproduction when the ring was brand new, but over time the prongs took a beating and they bent and shaped into the ribbon-like look they have in the photos. I have a hard time believing this explanation.

Do you believe this explanation? I really believe those ribbon-like prongs were ribbon-like to begin with.
 
I can see all of the things you're talking about. And a good tab prong can be produced for a new ring, you don't have to make them bulky and wear them down. did you get cads or a drawing of what it would look like before? did the cads represent the diamonds in the shank accurately? did it sit as high up?

It is pretty, but you're correct there are some distinct differences that make it look different than the original when compared.
 
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