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Cushion advice - 1st time caller, long time listner

they don't do PMs on this site - edited to remove addy.....hope you got it.
 
Now that I've bought the sone, can somebody point me to some threads where I can learn about the custom setting process? I've seen mention of some good threads, but haven't been ale to find them. Many thanks
 
stucook|1320802317|3057407 said:
Now that I've bought the sone, can somebody point me to some threads where I can learn about the custom setting process? I've seen mention of some good threads, but haven't been ale to find them. Many thanks

do you plan to get the setting made by the diamond vendor?
 
What's you budget and what do you want?
The custom process is different depending on the type of process the manufacturer uses.
If we knew your budget and what you wanted we could recommend a manufacturing method, and point you to the right threads to explain what you should expect. Also we can help recommend vendors, if you are interested in that.
 
Thanks for the fast responses! I plan on using a Chicago-based jeweler for the setting. I purchased the stone from a dealer that only deals in loose stones. I'm interested in a Harry Winston style halo setting. I've shopped around a bit, and have been told that a budget of $2,000 - $3,000 is reasonable for this. The jeweler I've decided to work with uses CAD to design the setting, then creates a wax mold, casts the ring in platinum, and then does the rest (not clear on the rest of the process)

My experience with custom work (home construction, interior design, clothing, etc) is that it is really up to me make sure I'm educated and give proper direction to the maker. I really can't blame the jeweler if there is a certain aesthetic I don't like, since I should have been able to tell him before the setting was created.

I've seen mention of a few specifications I think I need to learn more about. I'm also sure there is a lot information, I don't know, that I should know!

- Band width - what is ideal? I'm thinking the smaller the better
- Pave style? Jewler was explaining to me that Harry Winston's "Micro Pave" is actually a misnomer, and showed me examples of different type of work. I'm most confused on this issue
- Halo angle. I've seen examples of a nearly flat halo, and examples of very angled halos. I suspect I'd like something in the middle, but not sure.
- Stone height. I'm thinking I will want it as low as possible, but again I just don't know. Advice on this would be great
- Unknown - what am I missing???

Thanks again!

-Stuart
 
stucook|1320765562|3056873 said:
Sorry, I guess I'm not using the right terminology. Stone 1 has more sparkle and flash. Stone 2 appears whiter.

tough choice! 20 years ago it was easy - go with the brilliance (white) but now... I dunno, I think I'd go with the first stone if what you just said was all I had to go on!
 
stucook|1320852858|3057750 said:
Thanks for the fast responses! I plan on using a Chicago-based jeweler for the setting. I purchased the stone from a dealer that only deals in loose stones. I'm interested in a Harry Winston style halo setting. I've shopped around a bit, and have been told that a budget of $2,000 - $3,000 is reasonable for this. The jeweler I've decided to work with uses CAD to design the setting, then creates a wax mold, casts the ring in platinum, and then does the rest (not clear on the rest of the process)

My experience with custom work (home construction, interior design, clothing, etc) is that it is really up to me make sure I'm educated and give proper direction to the maker. I really can't blame the jeweler if there is a certain aesthetic I don't like, since I should have been able to tell him before the setting was created.

I've seen mention of a few specifications I think I need to learn more about. I'm also sure there is a lot information, I don't know, that I should know!

- Band width - what is ideal? I'm thinking the smaller the better
- Pave style? Jewler was explaining to me that Harry Winston's "Micro Pave" is actually a misnomer, and showed me examples of different type of work. I'm most confused on this issue
- Halo angle. I've seen examples of a nearly flat halo, and examples of very angled halos. I suspect I'd like something in the middle, but not sure.
- Stone height. I'm thinking I will want it as low as possible, but again I just don't know. Advice on this would be great
- Unknown - what am I missing???

Thanks again!

-Stuart

have you seen examples of this jeweler's pave work before? I would definitely look at it.

as far as band width, 2 mm is a good width...you don't want to go too small because then the setting will not be as durable. since you have such an elongated cushion I think you could go with 2.2 mm.

there are many different pave styles...is there a picture of a ring where you like the pave style? it might be easiest to show that to the jeweler.

as far as halo angle...frankiextah had a ring made with a flat halo and a ring made with a 25 degree angle...she posted some very detailed comparison pics. here is her thread
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/comparison-photos-of-my-victor-canera-sk-leon-ring-setting.166496/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/comparison-photos-of-my-victor-canera-sk-leon-ring-setting.166496/[/URL]

stone height...personal preference. I don't like the how-low-can-you-go style personally but more of a medium-low height. again, if you have an example of a ring where you like the stone height, I would show the jeweler.

also missing...struts-curved or straight, donut or no donut...

there are certainly MANY examples of pave halos on PS...if you search micropave halo or HW halo or something I am sure you will find some!
 
slg47|1320856000|3057791 said:
have you seen examples of this jeweler's pave work before? I would definitely look at it.

as far as band width, 2 mm is a good width...you don't want to go too small because then the setting will not be as durable. since you have such an elongated cushion I think you could go with 2.2 mm.

there are many different pave styles...is there a picture of a ring where you like the pave style? it might be easiest to show that to the jeweler.

as far as halo angle...frankiextah had a ring made with a flat halo and a ring made with a 25 degree angle...she posted some very detailed comparison pics. here is her thread
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/comparison-photos-of-my-victor-canera-sk-leon-ring-setting.166496/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/comparison-photos-of-my-victor-canera-sk-leon-ring-setting.166496/[/URL]

stone height...personal preference. I don't like the how-low-can-you-go style personally but more of a medium-low height. again, if you have an example of a ring where you like the stone height, I would show the jeweler.

also missing...struts-curved or straight, donut or no donut...

there are certainly MANY examples of pave halos on PS...if you search micropave halo or HW halo or something I am sure you will find some!

I've looked at tons of pictures, but I don't have the vocabulary or knowledge to translate what my eye likes into something I can describe to the jeweler.

Yes, the jeweler showed me many examples of his work. I'm pretty confident they will do a nice job.

2-2.mm width is great advice, it's specifications like this I need, so I can work with the jeweler and he can show me what that will look like

Any more feedback on Halo angle? I think I like the look of the angled halo. What do you all think?

Stone height - I'd like some more specifics, because 'medium-low' might mean one thing to me, and another to you. Is there a specific mm height range I should look at?

What are struts? What is a donut?

Thanks so much for all of your help!
 
stucook|1320859199|3057842 said:
slg47|1320856000|3057791 said:
have you seen examples of this jeweler's pave work before? I would definitely look at it.

as far as band width, 2 mm is a good width...you don't want to go too small because then the setting will not be as durable. since you have such an elongated cushion I think you could go with 2.2 mm.

there are many different pave styles...is there a picture of a ring where you like the pave style? it might be easiest to show that to the jeweler.

as far as halo angle...frankiextah had a ring made with a flat halo and a ring made with a 25 degree angle...she posted some very detailed comparison pics. here is her thread
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/comparison-photos-of-my-victor-canera-sk-leon-ring-setting.166496/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/comparison-photos-of-my-victor-canera-sk-leon-ring-setting.166496/[/URL]

stone height...personal preference. I don't like the how-low-can-you-go style personally but more of a medium-low height. again, if you have an example of a ring where you like the stone height, I would show the jeweler.

also missing...struts-curved or straight, donut or no donut...

there are certainly MANY examples of pave halos on PS...if you search micropave halo or HW halo or something I am sure you will find some!

I've looked at tons of pictures, but I don't have the vocabulary or knowledge to translate what my eye likes into something I can describe to the jeweler.

Yes, the jeweler showed me many examples of his work. I'm pretty confident they will do a nice job.

2-2.mm width is great advice, it's specifications like this I need, so I can work with the jeweler and he can show me what that will look like

Any more feedback on Halo angle? I think I like the look of the angled halo. What do you all think?

Stone height - I'd like some more specifics, because 'medium-low' might mean one thing to me, and another to you. Is there a specific mm height range I should look at?

What are struts? What is a donut?

Thanks so much for all of your help!

yes but if you show the jeweler the picture that might be the best way to communicate!

stone height is a matter of personal preference...according to my appraisal the height is 5.90 mm and the depth is 4.20 mm...so that is adding 1.7 mm to the depth. I think 2 mm is a good amount...but some prefer higher or lower.

this picture illustrates what I mean by 'struts' and 'donut'...if a setting does not have a donut then the wedding band can sit flush. if it does then there will be a gap between the engagement ring and wedding band.

the struts can be either straight or curved...

straightstruts.jpg

strutshalo1.jpg
 
Wow, thanks for the great lesson! I definitely plan on bringing pictures, but they can still be subjective. I've learned my lessons on pictures. Photos can be misinterpreted, specs cannot be. I also feel that arming myself with knowledge will allow me to communicate more clearly with the jeweler.

Any more advice, or threads I should look at?
 
stucook|1320860427|3057856 said:
Wow, thanks for the great lesson! I definitively plan on bringing pictures, but that can still be subjective. I've learned my lessons on pictures. Photos can be misinterpreted, specs cannot be. I also feel that arming myself with knowledge will allow me to communicate more clearly with the jeweler.

Any more advice, or threads I should look at?

I would just bring a LOT of pictures and explain what you do/do not like. I'm sure if you search you can find some examples...this style is very popular. Also, since you will have a CAD, you will have the ability to make changes if you do not like the initial CAD.
 
Ditto slg!

My advice re. custom work, speaking from experience:

Pick a jeweller who has already created pieces with the aesthetic you want. Then, now that you have proof that your jeweller can bring the look and feel of your vision to life, don't try to micromanage! Trust me, you don't want to specify that you want the stone set 0.3mm high unless you are prepared to produce a whole lot more in the way of explanation, because committing them to that sort of detail brings up a whole slew of new issues: 0.3mm high off what? The doughnut? Your finger? 0.3mm high in the CAD, or in the final product? ...

Come back and post the CADs when you get them and we can advise more, give you some ideas on how the final product will differ, etc. Like slg said there are tons of examples of that style on here :sun:
 
Ok, excellent suggestion. I'll start with pictures and some direction, and then post the CAD results here. Meeting with him on Friday, so I'll let this thread go dark for a while. Thanks for all of the great tips!
 
Thanks Gypsy, I'll check it out now
 
That was very informative. Does anybody else know of any threads that document the CAD -> Wax -> Ring -> Bling process? Particulary interested in Halo settings (obv) Thanks again!
 
Just got back from the jeweler. He was very responsive to my ideas, and to the rings I've found I like on PS. He was very concerned that my girlfriend wouldn't like the way the wedding band will not sit flush against the ring because of the donut. I've looked at a bunch of profile pictures, and I definitely like the look of the donut.

Does anybody have any photos of how a wedding band looks on the hand when it is "offset" by the halo? I'd like to compare this to some photos of a flush wedding band if anybody has any shots or links like that.

Also, he showed me a couple of rings he has made where the shank of the ring extends up to the halo. He likes this looks, and was telling me this made the stone appear to sit closer to the finger, even though it is still at the same height. What do you all think of that look? Should I stick with the Harry Winston style, or go with something like that?

-Stuart
 
Note that you can get wedding bands made that are 'notched' for the donut so they'll sit flush.
 
I've finally gotten drawings and renderings back from the jeweler. Please let me know honest opinions. I'm still very unsure about the donut...

For reference sake, here is what I discussed with the jeweler.

Stone:
Old Mine Brilliant, GIA Certified
9.12 x 7.35 x 4.64
2.4ct
Depth: 63.2%
Table: 51%
Girdle: Very thin to Thick, Faceted
Cutlet: Slightly large
Polish: Excellent
Symmetry: Good
Color: H
Clarity: VS1

Setting:
Shank: 2mm, 2-2.5 melee
Halo: 1.5mm, 1.5 melee, 25 degree angle
Pave: 'Scoop Cut', 8:30 - 3:30
Size: 4.75

Ring 1:

1765 A CAD.JPG

1765 A Angle.jpg

1765 A FRONT.jpg

1765 A SIDE.jpg
 
Ring 2:

1765 CAD.JPG

1765 Angle .jpg

1765 front.jpg

1765 side.jpg
 
Ring Top View:

1765 top.jpg
 
I think they both look really nice...which one do you think your gf will prefer?
 
Thanks for the feedback slg47! I actually am surprised by how much I like Ring 1. I really thought I wanted something closer to the Harry Winston style. I think she will love either setting, although it is hard to know for sure. Any other thoughts? Does Ring 2 look odd without a donut? Will it look like it sits up on the finger to high?

-Stuart
 
I personally prefer ring #2, but only because that is the style I'm doing for my g/f. However, it will be with 1 point melee on everything (including struts and donut) and eternity band. I don't think that looks odd without the donut at all.

My only comments would be to question the need for a bead setting when going with the larger melee. My jeweler stated that at the one pointers, it has to be done with bead, but if I went to two, it wouldn't.

I'd try to get some input from her or friends as to the style she'd prefer. Both are very popular, however I think ring #1 detracts from the halo.

FWIW, on her 4.75 size hand, this thing will be a monster. My 2.43 J/VS2 cushion measures 8.5x7.5, and I've seen a similar size on my g/f's size 6 finger, and it was big (I posted photos).

If you're one the fence about the donut, remember that the wedding band can be made to sit flush.
 
I vote for #1, do love the cathedral style (not sure what it excetly call), elegant and durable :love:
 
Thanks for the feedback Twizz. I'm not sure about the bead setting. What do you mean by that? I had asked him for u-cut scooped pave. Is this something else?? Yes, it will look big and shiny!
 
Thanks for the opinion Unknown!
 
I have a flush fit halo, and it was very important to me to have that at the time=- and I know that it seems to be for other women as well. I'd do a flush fit band to be safe. No sense in risking it, IMO.
 
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