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"Cup" style setting to hide tilt windows, enhance color, etc

roxta

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 23, 2019
Messages
67
I know that "cup" settings are used sometimes for colored diamonds, e.g. a yellow gold cup for yellow diamond or rose gold for pink/peach diamond. I have a silvery grey/blue pear sapphire that I've put off setting for a while. I would say it was cut quite close to the critical angle so there is no window straight on, but the slightest tilt in any direction and one appears (and it genuinely bothers me).

I've tried wrapping the pavilion in aluminium foil to get an idea of what a cup might look like and I think it improves the look significantly. Plus, since the sapphire is grey, the metal showing through blends in well with the color of the stone.

If you have a cup setting, full or partial, I'd love to see the design so I can get some inspiration for my jeweller.

And yes, I'm aware that cups make cleaning a lot more complicated. But I'd rather have something difficult to clean that I wear once in a while if it means the sapphire doesn't spend its life in a box, unset and unloved.

20210618_145640.png
 

Daisys and Diamonds

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Apr 30, 2019
Messages
11,853
I know that "cup" settings are used sometimes for colored diamonds, e.g. a yellow gold cup for yellow diamond or rose gold for pink/peach diamond. I have a silvery grey/blue pear sapphire that I've put off setting for a while. I would say it was cut quite close to the critical angle so there is no window straight on, but the slightest tilt in any direction and one appears (and it genuinely bothers me).

I've tried wrapping the pavilion in aluminium foil to get an idea of what a cup might look like and I think it improves the look significantly. Plus, since the sapphire is grey, the metal showing through blends in well with the color of the stone.

If you have a cup setting, full or partial, I'd love to see the design so I can get some inspiration for my jeweller.

And yes, I'm aware that cups make cleaning a lot more complicated. But I'd rather have something difficult to clean that I wear once in a while if it means the sapphire doesn't spend its life in a box, unset and unloved.

20210618_145640.png

Thats a beautiful colour
I have a blue topaz and diamond 3 stone i adore but the tilt window bothers me too
i have also played around with tinfoil

I will be watching your thread with interest
Good luck
 

T L

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
23,916
Get a cup with a hole in the bottom for cleaning and getting rid of trapped moisture and grime. Tilt windows are a lot less offending than a cloudy, smelly, mucky, dirty stone imho. Good luck on your project.
 

roxta

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 23, 2019
Messages
67
Get a cup with a hole in the bottom for cleaning and getting rid of trapped moisture and grime. Tilt windows are a lot less offending than a cloudy, smelly, mucky, dirty stone imho. Good luck on your project.

Oh absolutely. Difficult to clean is one thing, impossible to clean is another.
I'm actually thinking of a partial cup that has small openings on the side. I like the idea of a star or flower that is moulded into a cup shape, so there would still be gaps between the points/petals for cleaning. But the middle of the pavilion (where the windowing is most obvious) would be covered.
 
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MamaBee

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Mar 31, 2018
Messages
10,681
I have a sapphire with a window that David Klass has right now. He said the cup made my sapphire too dark. He took it off and filled in a little of the donut. He said it helped a little. I just thought I would mention that the cup could make your topaz a different or darker color..
 

roxta

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 23, 2019
Messages
67
I have a sapphire with a window that David Klass has right now. He said the cup made my sapphire too dark. He took it off and filled in a little of the donut. He said it helped a little. I just thought I would mention that the cup could make your topaz a different or darker color..

I'd love to see pictures if you have any.
 

MamaBee

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Mar 31, 2018
Messages
10,681
I'd love to see pictures if you have any.

@roxta David Klass has it..He never showed it to me..He just told me it made the sapphire dark so he took it off. He’s keeping it with another repair while he does a reset on another ring. I guess he will ship them to me when everything is done.
 

roxta

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 23, 2019
Messages
67
@roxta David Klass has it..He never showed it to me..He just told me it made the sapphire dark so he took it off. He’s keeping it with another repair while he does a reset on another ring. I guess he will ship them to me when everything is done.

Ah ok. Well I can't speak for @Daisys and Diamonds's topaz, but my sapphire is a pale color so if it gets darker with a cup, that's not an issue for me. I did notice it got a bit darker with foil all around it, but that would still be light-medium or medium as far as tone goes.
 

evergreen

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 18, 2012
Messages
636
My sapphire has a light tone and a decent window -- it looks much better set in a heavy, full-depth (though bottom entirely open for cleaning) bezel than it did in its JA video!

Stone: https://www.jamesallen.com/gemstones/blue-sapphire/1.44-carat-Pear-sku-54769
Setting: https://www.jamesallen.com/engageme...-set-diamond-tiara-engagement-ring-item-66456

The window would probably be even less apparent if I'd gone with white metal, but it essentially creates a "cup" that addresses the tilt window, the band of the setting addresses the top-down window, and while yes there's windowing it's much improved! This is a fairly unflattering photo, but you can see it's taken at a tilt and the sapphire isn't dark/dead.
PXL_20210514_135244437.jpg
 

roxta

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 23, 2019
Messages
67
My sapphire has a light tone and a decent window -- it looks much better set in a heavy, full-depth (though bottom entirely open for cleaning) bezel than it did in its JA video!

Stone: https://www.jamesallen.com/gemstones/blue-sapphire/1.44-carat-Pear-sku-54769
Setting: https://www.jamesallen.com/engageme...-set-diamond-tiara-engagement-ring-item-66456

The window would probably be even less apparent if I'd gone with white metal, but it essentially creates a "cup" that addresses the tilt window, the band of the setting addresses the top-down window, and while yes there's windowing it's much improved! This is a fairly unflattering photo, but you can see it's taken at a tilt and the sapphire isn't dark/dead.
PXL_20210514_135244437.jpg
It's beautiful. I think the cut and tone of a stone dictates whether it can handle being in a cup or whether it gets blacked out entirely. That's why the foil trick is so handy.
 
Last edited:

roxta

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 23, 2019
Messages
67
I'm thinking of something like this (setting is from Debebians), but without the gaps in the petals, just between them. So most of the centre of the stone, where tilt windows appear, would have metal underneath - but the sides still allow some access for cleaning.

40782-se-37.jpg
 

icy_jade

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 1, 2009
Messages
4,503
I have my yellow sapphire in a YG cup. Has a hole at the bottom for cleaning and agree that it’s much harder to clean. Pics here if you are interested:

 

roxta

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 23, 2019
Messages
67
I have my yellow sapphire in a YG cup. Has a hole at the bottom for cleaning and agree that it’s much harder to clean. Pics here if you are interested:


Oh my goodness, it's amazing! Thanks for sharing the thread.
 

fussykiki

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 28, 2011
Messages
325
I know that "cup" settings are used sometimes for colored diamonds, e.g. a yellow gold cup for yellow diamond or rose gold for pink/peach diamond. I have a silvery grey/blue pear sapphire that I've put off setting for a while. I would say it was cut quite close to the critical angle so there is no window straight on, but the slightest tilt in any direction and one appears (and it genuinely bothers me).

I've tried wrapping the pavilion in aluminium foil to get an idea of what a cup might look like and I think it improves the look significantly. Plus, since the sapphire is grey, the metal showing through blends in well with the color of the stone.

If you have a cup setting, full or partial, I'd love to see the design so I can get some inspiration for my jeweller.

And yes, I'm aware that cups make cleaning a lot more complicated. But I'd rather have something difficult to clean that I wear once in a while if it means the sapphire doesn't spend its life in a box, unset and unloved.

20210618_145640.png

Check out my post. My sapphire has a window and was fixed by filling the hole at the bridge of the ring. The window is gone and still allow me to clean it properly.

 

roxta

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 23, 2019
Messages
67
Check out my post. My sapphire has a window and was fixed by filling the hole at the bridge of the ring. The window is gone and still allow me to clean it properly.


Thanks for sharing. Great to hear that a fairly straightforward fix was all that was needed. A lot of people replied to your post saying that the window or tilt windows didn't bother them personally, but I know exactly how you felt. It's impossible to "unsee" it if it does bother you and you have to do something otherwise you won't be able to enjoy the stone. I have considered a setting with a closed bridge as well as a partially open cup. Just need to compile a few design ideas for my jeweller and we'll see which option is best.
 
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