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Could I lose sparkle with my reset?

sassy_pants

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 18, 2011
Messages
79
I posted last weekend about how I was looking for a new setting for my engagement ring as a 10th anniversary gift. I received lots of generous help and advice from PSers, and after a lot of thought/obsessing I decided on my new setting, this James Allen bezel with pave on the crown. I just love it!
http://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/tension/platinum-pave-crown-bezel-engagment-ring-item-53684

I discussed the top contenders with my sister (not a diamond person, but very stylish) and she loved this one too, but after we had decided she asked "what's wrong with your current setting?" I explained to her a couple of things about it that have always bothered me (husband picked it out by himself, bless his heart). Then she said, "well, it's such a sparkly stone, just don't do anything to it that would change that." And she's right, it is a very sparkly stone. I'm sure the cut experts here might disagree, but I had a pair of WF ACA studs and still thought my engagement diamond was more lively. Perhaps it's a matter of personal taste? But her comment had me thinking, so I've been walking around all day like a crazy person with a masking tape "bezel" trying to see the difference. It's definitely not as pretty with the masking tape, but maybe it's a crazy experiment! So my question is whether or not I'm going to lose what I love about this stone if I reset, especially in a bezel. Is there anything about the cut that would make this stone a good or bad candidate for a bezel setting?

Here are the stats:
EGL cert (I know, I know. But it really is gorgeous.)
1.22 F VS2
6.87-6.82 x 4.23
Depth 61.8%
Table 60%
Crown height 14%
Pavilion depth 43%
Girdle medium, faceted
Culet none
Fluorescence none
Polish very good
Symmetry very good

It seems like a lot of people say their stone looks larger and more sparkly in a bezel, so maybe I just have cold feet on the reset? I'd be grateful for any opinions. After 10 years, I'd like to get a setting I really love. But maybe my current setting shows off the stone in its best light? If that's the case, maybe I could modify the current setting in some way. I'll post photos. I'd love opinions!

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sassy_pants

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 18, 2011
Messages
79
Here are a few quick photos of my current setting. I like the top view, and then in the next picture you can see that the setting has bezel set surprise diamonds, but I've never been a fan of the way they stick out. Sort of like a outie belly button! And then from the profile shot you can see how the setting exposes so much of the side of the stone, perhaps this is where I'm getting a lot of the sparkle? Also you can see that the ring is not symmetric. This really bugs me. The original setting had a surprise diamond on each side. My husband had one of the surprise diamonds removed before he proposed so I'd be able to wear a wedding band flush against it. His intention was thoughtful, but I think the finished product turned out strange. If you think I would lose a lot of my stone's beauty by resetting in the JA bezel, then what kind of setting would most enhance the stone? Or maybe I could alter the current setting in some way to make it more to my liking? One thought is to remove the remaining bezel set surprise diamond, but it left a sort of unfinished look on the side where it was removed, so I'm not sure how to improve that. Thanks for any ideas or comments!

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_36236.jpg

_36237.jpg

_36238.jpg
 

rainydaze

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 1, 2007
Messages
3,361
I love the setting you chose! I wish I could comment on how your stone would perform in a bezel, but I'm not solid on the numbers to offer that advice. I think that's what it comes down to, though, an ideal cut stone returns all light out the top with no leakage, and thus a bezel should have no negative impact.

As a side note, I think Gypsy mentioned in another thread that James Allen offers 25% off of their settings around Valentine's Day. Not sure if you have to buy a stone from them too, or if it's offered on just settings. At any rate, I thought I would mention it because that might be worth waiting for! :)
 

Ally66

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 19, 2013
Messages
742
I think your chosen setting is gorgeous! And it seems to me that there is a lot of open space below the bezel in the photos, so lots of space for light?

I am a bezel lover -- I had my classic 3 stone ring reset in a 3 stone bezel and I think the diamonds are wonderfully sparkly. Hoping others with more knowledge will chime in to give you opinions.

Have fun making your decision!
 

VRBeauty

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 2, 2006
Messages
11,210
I have some very small (about .24 each) studs that were originally bezel set. The "wall" of each bezel rose up pretty high - I'd say it was at least half as high as the table. That did block some light from entering each stone, and it significantly affected performance. I go those reset in eight-prong settings and it made a huge difference. As rainydaze said, a well cut diamond is returning light that enters the top of the stone. The problem with my earrings was that the bezels were high enough that the literally overshadowed much of their tiny tables.

On the other hand, my 3-stone ring (.48 - .85 - .48) is bezel-set and the bezels don't seem to impact the light show at all. It's incredibly sparkly in pretty much any lighting. The bezels sit very low, as does the bezel shown in the JA picture. And of course with a stone as large as yours, it would take a very high bezel indeed to significantly reduce the amount of light hitting the table.

You've chosen a lovely setting. If I were in your shoes, I'd go for it!
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 22, 2004
Messages
38,364
A bezel will have very little impact on the light performance of a well cut stone.
A not so well cut stone is likely to see a decrease in sparkle if bezeled, and hence, having light come in from the sides is beneficial.
 

SparklySoprano

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Nov 21, 2014
Messages
661
SP, so excited for you! You made a wonderful choice. I think you ring is going to look spectacular and I wouldn't worry about the bezel as others have stated. Can't wait to see finished product!
 

AdaBeta27

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Sep 7, 2004
Messages
1,077
A leaky stone will benefit from being set high in prongs in an "open" mounting that lets light into the pavilion. I have a OEC that is abnormally shallow and it windows and looks "dark" if it's in a boxy head. I had it remounted in a 6 prong head and it got a new lease on life.

You can try 2 rough tests, one of which you might have already done with the tape bezel:
1. Wrap your fingers or some tape around the pavilion part of the diamond, try to block all light from getting in via that route, and see if that decreases the performance.
2. Take the diamond ring under the desk or table, where it's pretty dark, not much light getting in from anywhere, and see how bright or dark the diamond looks.

If it passes those two rudimentary tests, it's probably cut well enough that being bezel set won't hurt the performance.
 

sassy_pants

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 18, 2011
Messages
79
Thanks everyone for the discussion and encouragement! I would guess my stone is well cut enough to handle a bezel, but I don't know for sure. I put the numbers into the HCA tool at got 2.1, which is outside the best area, but not too far outside. I'm not sure what it all means!!!

I will try the two tests you recommended, AdaBeta. I think maybe my masking tape "bezel" was too high, similar to the earring description, blocking a lot of the table. I'll try just covering up the actual pavilion to see what that does.

Ironically, if my husband had picked out this setting 10 years ago, I would have loved it and never known what the stone looked like prong set to even worry about the difference!
 

sassy_pants

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 18, 2011
Messages
79
AdaBeta, I'm not sure if my stone passes test number 2 or not. What am I looking for with the under-the-desk test?
 

cinnamonstick

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 14, 2009
Messages
572
I can't make any professional judgement calls here. I just wanted to tell you that setting is VERY gorgeous. I've never saw a bezel with diamonds around it!

I strongly considered a bezel setting myself but went with 8 prong.

GL
 

sassy_pants

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 18, 2011
Messages
79
cinnamonstick|1454783673|3987772 said:
I can't make any professional judgement calls here. I just wanted to tell you that setting is VERY gorgeous. I've never saw a bezel with diamonds around it!

I strongly considered a bezel setting myself but went with 8 prong.

GL

Thanks, cinnamonstick! I love it too. I ordered the setting last week, and will be sure to post photos when it arrives!!! Can't wait to see it in person.

Also, I just wanted to mention that I was floored by the consistently outstanding customer service at James Allen. My (many) emails were always answered promptly, usually within a couple of hours. The responses were thorough, easy to understand, and accurate. I also spoke with someone on the phone late at night when I was having trouble processing the order on line, and again, had extremely competent and helpful service.
 

cinnamonstick

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 14, 2009
Messages
572
Awesome! Good luck!
 

AdaBeta27

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Sep 7, 2004
Messages
1,077
sassy_pants|1454209880|3984422 said:
AdaBeta, I'm not sure if my stone passes test number 2 or not. What am I looking for with the under-the-desk test?
The stone to look white / bright in spite of dim lighting.
 
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