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Color vs. Size - Your Opinion

crimsonbear

Rough_Rock
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Jan 24, 2020
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7
I think I've narrowed down my selection for an engagement ring stone to two options, both from Blue Nile. One has a higher color grade (K to I), and the other is larger (1.41 to 1.6) with a better clarity grade (SI1 to VVS1). Same price, both Ideal cut with Strong fluorescence, and the SI1 diamond has been confirmed to be eye clean. I'm interested in your opinion on which to purchase. To me, it really hinges on color - some places I read you shouldn't go lower than I, especially on the "larger" (~1ct+) end, which these are. Other places I read that K is really (or should be) on the "near-colorless" spectrum, granted, on the bottom. Also, with the fluorescence, might the color be improved (in sunlight)? Is there such thing as too yellow for an engagement ring, and does this fall into that category?

Honestly, I was about ready to purchase the 1.41 and I'm sure she'd be thrilled with it. As a novice, it just feels very tempting to trade the 2 color grades for .19ct and better clarity, but before I decide, I figured I'd get some advice.

One last note, it will be in a 14k White Gold setting.

1.41: https://www.bluenile.com/diamond-details/LD12944111
1.60: https://www.bluenile.com/diamond-details/LD13411209


Thanks in advance!
 

Karl_K

Ideal_Rock
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imho k color really needs the wearer to be involved and look at it during the return period or have experience with diamonds in that color range.
Some people love them and some do not and peer pressure can sometimes be brutal so there are a lot of variables.
 

mrs-b

Ideal_Rock
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Agree with all of Karl's comments. You can see tint in a K - no questions.

However, what role does cut play in your decision? Because I have to say, you've picked a horribly cut 1.41ct diamond. Its pavilin angle is WAY too deep, and it's flat as a pancake on top. Too flat. WAY too flat. This is not a pretty diamond and will have horrible light return and performance.

The second one is better, but it's not that great either, and the tint is STRONG.

Are you open to help and to other options? We'd love to help you and you're a fair way away from a nice diamond with these and can do way better.

Please consider this diamond:


This would look as large as the 1.6, but FAR whiter. And it will sparkle. Its facet pattern will be MUCH prettier and its performance way better. It's a completely different diamond to the ones you posted - SO much better and only $200 more. That K diamond is a very warm K. Go with the J - it's a nice stone and something both of you will be more proud of.
 
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crimsonbear

Rough_Rock
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Jan 24, 2020
Messages
7
Agree with all of Karl's comments. You can see tint in a K - no questions.

However, what role does cut play in your decision? Because I have to say, you've picked a horribly cut 1.41ct diamond. Its pavilin angle is WAY too deep, and it's flat as a pancake on top. Too flat. WAY too flat. This is not a pretty diamond and will have horrible light return and performance.

The second one is better, but it's not that great either, and the tint is STRONG.

Are you open to help and to other options? We'd love to help you and you're a fair way away from a nice diamond with these and can do way better.

Please consider this diamond:


This would look as large as the 1.6, but FAR whiter. And it will sparkle. Its facet pattern will be MUCH prettier and its performance way better. It's a completely different diamond to the ones you posted - SO much better and only $200 more. That K diamond is a very warm K. Go with the J - it's a nice stone and something both of you will be more proud of.
Of course! Absolutely open to other options, and really appreciate the response. I don't know anything about cut other than to select Ideal+ (the two I put here are both listed as "Ideal"). What, outside of it being Super-Ideal (Astor Ideal, etc.) should I be looking for? e.g. are there ways I can see the "pavilion angle" / flatness, etc.?
 

sledge

Ideal_Rock
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Agree that neither of these are "ideal" cut stones. I understand that BN has labeled them as such but the proportions on the cert tell us a different story.

Both stones are GIA triple X however the range for meeting triple X criteria is so wide that many of the stones with that moniker aren't really all that excellent. Staying within BN and triple X we can find more ideal cut stones if you are open to the idea.

That said, the K stone is cut better than the I stone and IMO while cut is the hardest attribute to gauge and understand, the cut quality is the magic sauce that makes a diamond special.

As far as color, do you have any idea what HER preferences are? If she wants a "white stone" I would suggest sticking with an I color or better. My wife sees color very easily and she can see tint in her H. She's also very tolerant so she's not especially bothered by it but her preference is a more white stone. When we eventually upgrade her I will get a better color grade.

Lots of ladies on here will always take the biggest stone but I believe maxing out the C's that is most important to HER is the key to the right answer.

Lastly as far as fluor, I believe it's a mistake to buy a lower color with the assumption fluor will make it better. Yes, in certain UV conditions with certain fluor levels you may see some whitening but it's not a constant. Buy the minimum color you can live with and then any boost you get from fluor is an added bonus. If you buy it depending on fluor for happiness you are setting yourself up for disappointment.

Also with fluor, you need to check the stones to ensure they don't look hazy or cloudy in various lighting conditions. The higher the fluor level, the greater the odds. Also certain inclusions may play into transparency as well.
 

crimsonbear

Rough_Rock
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Jan 24, 2020
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Agree that neither of these are "ideal" cut stones. I understand that BN has labeled them as such but the proportions on the cert tell us a different story.

Both stones are GIA triple X however the range for meeting triple X criteria is so wide that many of the stones with that moniker aren't really all that excellent. Staying within BN and triple X we can find more ideal cut stones if you are open to the idea.

That said, the K stone is cut better than the I stone and IMO while cut is the hardest attribute to gauge and understand, the cut quality is the magic sauce that makes a diamond special.

As far as color, do you have any idea what HER preferences are? If she wants a "white stone" I would suggest sticking with an I color or better. My wife sees color very easily and she can see tint in her H. She's also very tolerant so she's not especially bothered by it but her preference is a more white stone. When we eventually upgrade her I will get a better color grade.

Lots of ladies on here will always take the biggest stone but I believe maxing out the C's that is most important to HER is the key to the right answer.

Lastly as far as fluor, I believe it's a mistake to buy a lower color with the assumption fluor will make it better. Yes, in certain UV conditions with certain fluor levels you may see some whitening but it's not a constant. Buy the minimum color you can live with and then any boost you get from fluor is an added bonus. If you buy it depending on fluor for happiness you are setting yourself up for disappointment.

Also with fluor, you need to check the stones to ensure they don't look hazy or cloudy in various lighting conditions. The higher the fluor level, the greater the odds. Also certain inclusions may play into transparency as well.
Thanks! I'm completely open to the idea of different stones than what I've found (although I'd prefer Blue Nile because she's in love with a setting by them).

I would like to know if there are ways I can look at the cert to determine a better cut than just it saying "ideal", to acknowledge several of the points made here.

I've talked to her extensively, and like any good almost-fiancee, she insists none of it matters to her. With that said, I do get the impression she values carat above color...and that's why I'm asking here. I think she'd be thrilled with anything as long as the color is slightly not noticeable...maybe she's looking for plausible deniability. I just don't want something obviously low quality (e.g. clearly yellow without it being compared next to a D), and that's where my question about "too yellow" came from. I really don't care about I, J, K (one of those is probably for us), but I'll take whatever isn't incredibly noticeable and allows me a larger/more clear diamond. If that's I...if that's J...great (and yes, I also get it's personal, but if most people would agree with mrs-b that K tint is "STRONG", let's avoid K!)

Agree with flour...I was picking them more because they were less expensive and MIGHT have that benefit, than specifically because they were flour and WOULD have that benefit.
 

lovedogs

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I agree with @sledge and @mrs-b that neither of those are great choices. The 1.41 is very very poorly cut. The 1.6 is better, but still not amazing, especially given that K color is something that the wearer needs to choose since the tint will be noticeable.
 

sledge

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I've had a long rough day and turning in for the night. But I will take a look tomorrow and see if I can throw up a few alternates. Here are some general proportion guidelines to steer you the right direction:
  • 54-57 table
  • 60.62.4 depth (prefer <62)
  • 34-35 crown (maybe 35.5, if paired with 40.6 pavilion)
  • 40.6-40.9 pavilion (maybe 41, if paired with 34 crown)
  • 75-80 lower girdle facets (aka LGF's)
  • Inverse relationship with the crown & pavilion, meaning steep crown/shallow pavilion or vice versa. Some popular combinations include 35/40.6, 34.5/40.8, 34/41, etc.
  • GIA or AGS certified
As stated earlier, these are general ranges to help get you close. Sometimes you find a stone slightly outside this criteria (35.5/40.6 or 36/40.6 for example) that may work. It depends on the exact faceting of the stone. Remember, there is rounding & averaging of the cert values that GIA reports so depending how precise the exact faceting is or isn't, then it determines when things truly work or doesn't. For instance a 35/40.8 combo is a tricky one. It fits in the above criteria, but unless faceted properly it can be a problem.

The HCA is a good tool to use and ensure the proportions are complimentary. You enter the data from the cert and it makes some additional assumptions and kicks back a result. Generally speaking, anything below 2 is worth considering. Some stones at 2.5 or so and below may be worth pursuing as well, again, depending on the precision level of faceting.

Some vendors offer advanced images like ASET, idealscope or hearts & arrows (H&A) that tell us quite a bit about the light performance and symmetry of a stone. Unfortunately, BN typically does not do this; however, I always recommend you ask -- sometimes you get lucky. The "super ideal" vendors that deal in H&A stones always provides this data.

Like anything in life, the more and better data we get the more warm & fuzzy we can feel about making a purchase decision. Of course, you can make some general assumptions without all that data too by picking good proportions, running the HCA and carefully looking at videos & photos. Good vendors like BN will offer you a 30-day return policy, so once you get reasonably comfortable you can order the stone and have it shipped to you for review in the flesh & blood. If something doesn't click, then you send it back and start over. Or if you fall in love with the stone, then you can return for BN to mount in a setting.

One final thought -- since your girl obviously knows what you are up to and this isn't a stealth operation, then I'd suggest visiting a local jeweler and looking at GIA certified stones from 1.4 to 1.6 carats, and varying from H-K in color. Ask the jeweler to try and find stones that have similar cut proportions as well. Then have the jeweler show you the stones blindly, meaning you don't know what stone is what size or what color. Find which ones her eyes naturally go to and the stones she eliminates. For instance, she may quickly say K's are too warm but can't tell a difference between H-J. That's good because now you know a J or better would be her sweet spot.

Also, the difference between 1.4 and 1.6 carats equals about 0.20mm in spread diameter. That's about the thickness of 2 sheets of copy paper. It's not a bunch, but when compared side to side most people can see a slight size difference. When not side by side, you won't remember the larger stone as "OMG bigger" if even at all, as it's minimal. So that too is a good blind test for both you and her. I think this is very important because 1.50 is a "magic weight" where prices push up higher per carat simply because it reached 1.50+ carats. So theoretically a 1.48 stone would be cheaper than a 1.50 stone even though both may have the same spread size. It's a mental thing and when you are aware could be a clever way to save a few bucks if you aren't hung up on saying 1.50+ carats as opposed to 1.48, or nearly 1.50 carats.
 

dk168

Ideal_Rock
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No help at all, just my own experience on colour.
Until I had my EC which is an E VS1, I was happy with G/H coloured stones.
However I could see the difference when I put my EC against G/H stones and became more colour sensitive.
Below is a pic of my mum's G/H MRB next to my E EC.

645783

My mind-clean colour grade is "I" nowadays, and can't go lower as I only wear white metal. I only wear one ring on my RH and I normally wear a CS or pearl on the other hand.

Given the choice, I would get the best cut, up to SI clarity as long as it is eye clean, drop the colour to I in order to maximise on size.

Personal preferences and all that.

DK :))
 

mission1

Shiny_Rock
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Nov 17, 2019
Messages
145
Can you get in to see a few diamonds 'in person'? It's a very personal thing - hard to say any particular colour is right for someone else. I started off thinking colour wouldn't bother me, so dropped from a G to an I and had to return it....my fiancee could see it too.

As others have said, "ideal" on Blue Nile is not an ideal cut as talked about on here - there are some very average diamonds within the ideal/excellent retailer band. Sledge posts some parameters above that you can use - some go in to the advanced filters on most websites, but others need you to click on the GIA certs. I’d suggest SI1 or VS2 clarity to maximise size for your budget.
 

mission1

Shiny_Rock
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145
Slightly smaller than the 1.41, but on about the limit of size difference you'd see even if they were next to each other. Priced lower, but much better proportions, I colour and VS1 clarity:


These two are bigger, and again much nicer proportions than the two you'd initially asked for feedback on, but a colour grade J - so lower than the one above. You'd need to confirm if they're eyeclean:


 

headlight

Ideal_Rock
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@crimsonbear I don't know who told you that K should really be in the near-colorless category but it is not, and for a reason. Personally, I really don't feel that J should be, either. For me, H is "near-colorless"... I have had D, E, G, H, and I (and I think a pair of studs I have that are OMCs might be Ks)... and, for me, the I color stone I had was definitely NOT near-colorless. (WTS, and in all fairness, it was well over 3 carats so color would definitely be MUCH more prominent.)
 

headlight

Ideal_Rock
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Agree that neither of these are "ideal" cut stones. I understand that BN has labeled them as such but the proportions on the cert tell us a different story.

Both stones are GIA triple X however the range for meeting triple X criteria is so wide that many of the stones with that moniker aren't really all that excellent. Staying within BN and triple X we can find more ideal cut stones if you are open to the idea.

That said, the K stone is cut better than the I stone and IMO while cut is the hardest attribute to gauge and understand, the cut quality is the magic sauce that makes a diamond special.

As far as color, do you have any idea what HER preferences are? If she wants a "white stone" I would suggest sticking with an I color or better. My wife sees color very easily and she can see tint in her H. She's also very tolerant so she's not especially bothered by it but her preference is a more white stone. When we eventually upgrade her I will get a better color grade.

Lots of ladies on here will always take the biggest stone but I believe maxing out the C's that is most important to HER is the key to the right answer.

Lastly as far as fluor, I believe it's a mistake to buy a lower color with the assumption fluor will make it better. Yes, in certain UV conditions with certain fluor levels you may see some whitening but it's not a constant. Buy the minimum color you can live with and then any boost you get from fluor is an added bonus. If you buy it depending on fluor for happiness you are setting yourself up for disappointment.

Also with fluor, you need to check the stones to ensure they don't look hazy or cloudy in various lighting conditions. The higher the fluor level, the greater the odds. Also certain inclusions may play into transparency as well.
Aside from the fact that everything @sledge says is spot on, I want to endorse the point made about buying with FL and one's expectations. I think the advice stated above is a great one, and one that should probably be stated much more often than it is... that being that one should buy a stone in a color they can live with... and then if the FL gives it a "boost", then all the better. But even with that, I worry about getting a stone with strong FL, irregardless of the color. As always, well-said, @sledge!
 

crimsonbear

Rough_Rock
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Jan 24, 2020
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7
Thanks so much everyone - I've learned quite a bit (I think!)...far more than months of googling the 4 c's.

I went back through BN with their filter around specific proportions @sledge provided and narrowed it down to 11 diamonds. From there, I used the HCA tool and narrowed it down to 2-4 (some of which you'd already recommended!).

URLCarat$ColorClarityHCA
URL1.45$7,423JVS21.3
URL1.52$7,466JSI11.5*
URL1.36$7,907IVVS21.1
URL1.50$8,397IVS21.5*

*The HCA says these "look a good size" for their carat weight. Not sure how much that should play into a decision.

My preference is probably one of the top two based on price, but I listed the bottom two in case there's a strong argument to improve color and/or clarity (I can see inclusions in the top two, but not sure if that's worth worrying about, and of course I'd confirm eye cleanliness).
 

sledge

Ideal_Rock
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I'm not sure your exact budget, but here are some super ideal options. These are different in the fact they not only have ideal proportions, but they are extremely well cut as evidenced by the hearts & arrow symmetry.

Also, they have a much more generous upgrade policy than BN. With WF you simply spend $1 more and can upgrade as you see fit. So if I color doesn't work, cool, then swap with an H of near equal value. If that's still too warm, then trade them out for a G. Or if the I color works now but 2 years down the later you saved a little extra scratch and can bump the color and/or size then you can do that too.

With BN, you have to spend 2x the original amount each time you upgrade. That severely limits your options.

Of course, super ideals are more expensive as well. A few reasons why. They are cut for beauty, which means there is a higher percentage of diamond rough that is "wasted" vs a diamond that is cut to maximize carat weight (but not as well cut & beautiful). Also, there is more time spent ensuring the faceting of the stone is top notch and is evidenced by the H&A symmetry.

Anyhow, I'm not pushing you into this, but wanted to show you ALL your options and explain some of the differences.

WF ACA 1.357 I SI1 @ $8,403 wire (roughly $6,192 per carat)

Lowest price for the biggest size and I+ color. Also WF actually vets their stones to ensure they are eye clean and the inclusions don't mess with transparency or light performance.

You can see in the video, she's a sparkle bomb. The only downside I can see is this one measures out around 7mm.

WF ACA 1.41 I SI1 @ $9,325 wire (roughly $6,613 per carat)

Gets you to 1.41 carats and pushes the spread up to 7.20mm. Although size is similar and both have the same color and clarity, you can see the per carat price is higher. I think this is two fold. You are getting dinged for a 1.40 magic weight premium. Also, this SI1 looks a little cleaner than the other one.

Another factor that may be at play is that each color grade has a "range". This means you could end up with a high I that looks almost H, or possibly a low I that looks almost J or maybe something just in the middle. The other thing that occurs is that the ranges grow as you go further down the color scale. So there is very little range in a D color, where an I will have more range. And a K will have more range than an I.

I mention the above, as a potential 3rd factor is perhaps this is a higher I color than the first stone. Since WF has these stones in their vault in Houston, you can call and ask them to compare to each other and even send you photos so you can see if any color variance exists. Another perk of working with a vendor that stocks their stones vs using virtual inventory like BN.

WF ACA 1.327 J VS2 @ $7,935 wire (roughly $5,980 per carat)

If you can live with J color and 7mm then this is very nice. I like the bump to VS2 clarity and the video is quite nice.

WF ACA 1.423 J VS2 @ $8,779 wire (roughly $6,169 per carat)

Love the small 55 table on this one. She makes big bold rainbow flashes! Getting a little jump in the price per carat for going over the 1.4 mark, but reasonable IMO. Also, this gets you to a 7.20mm spread.

WF PS 1.750 K SI1 @ $8,488 wire (roughly $4,850 per carat)

So WF has 3 primary lines:
  • ACA = A Cut Above, and this is their premier H&A line with AGS000 certification and cream of the crop diamond.
  • ES = Expert Select, and a near miss ACA but still keeps AGS000 certification
  • PS = Premium Select, also a near miss ACA but has GIA certification
The first thing you will probably notice is the size for price....1.75 carats and 7.70mm spread. Hello mamasita!

56 table, 61.4 depth, 33.5 crown, 40.8 pavilion & 75 LGF

First thing that pops out to me is the crown is a little lower than typically recommended and one of the reasons it misses the ACA mark. And looking at the hearts image, we can tell the symmetry isn't as perfect as the typical ACA either; however, this is probably better than most XXX stones available. The ASET and IS images look great.

My only other concern is there is something showing up around the 5 o'clock position in the ASET and IS images. It's an inclusion of some sort, and WF doesn't have the cert linked yet (maybe a new stone?). I'd want to see the cert and determine what is going on there. But they do list the stone as eye clean, so that gives me a little faith it isn't too terrible.

Also, this stone has medium blue fluor. That helps with color and might give some color boost in certain situations. Also, since WF owns the stone, you can have them vet for transparency issues which I am betting it doesn't have but it's nice to be able to confirm prior to purchase.

I think this stone offers a phenomenal bang for the buck. Add to the fact the PS, ES and ACA stones all are part of their great trade-in policy and that means in the future you could swap this on an ACA as well. So it gives you a great stone now but a foot in the door to their killer trade program.

The biggest concern is the color. I'd ask WF to pull and compare to other I and J stones to see how it compares. The size is a big enough boost it may sway your lady. And later on if you determine the color doesn't work, you use the trade program to move around to something that does.

WF ACA 1.45 K VS2 @ $7,421 wire (roughly $5,117 per carat)

54.1 table :love:, 61.8 depth, 34.4 crown, 40.7 pavilion & 77 LGF

That sexy small 54 table will make others here jealous like @Dancing Fire. Near perfect Tolk proportions overall, and the images are clean as a whistle! Great bang for the buck if you can live with the K color. Gets you to 7.30mm spread.
 

sledge

Ideal_Rock
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FYI, since we are talking so much about color, I think this article and image may be useful. If you aren't aware, color is graded by turning the diamond upside down so the table is face down and looking at the pavilion (aka side or body) of the diamond.

Below shows an example and range of colors. No school bus yellow going on here as many people try to make you believe, but obviously there is tint going on and K is much warmer than a D.

1579980269837.png

Diamonds are graded for color this way, because the body or pavilion, is where most color is observed. In the face up position, color is much less noticeable as illustrated in the picture below.

1579980533315.png

Based on the above you may be tempted to think only face up matters, but that isn't exactly true. When a lady wears a ring, she will catch glimpses of the diamond from the face up and side, so knowing HER preference is of key importance as she will likely see tint.

However, depending on the setting you use, the tint can be further masked. It's simple when you think about it, as some settings have more metal around the basket that prevents you viewing the pavilion of the body, whereas other settings highlight or expose the pavilion.

You can't totally hide color. But you may be able to mask it a little depending on your choices.

 

sledge

Ideal_Rock
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In this situation?? I'd choose color instead of size.
Whoa.....this is a statement. By her own lips she claims to be a size whore, lol.
 

msop04

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Whoa.....this is a statement. By her own lips she claims to be a size whore, lol.

I know, right??!!


But in a situation like this, where the stone isn't that much larger and the difference in color would be really noticeable... I'd chose smaller for color.

Now, if it were between a 1.5 ct G and a 2 ct I, you'll find me sporting the 2 ct all day, errrrday.
 

sledge

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I know, right??!!

But in a situation like this, where the stone isn't that much larger and the difference in color would be really noticeable... I'd chose smaller for color.

Now, if it were between a 1.5 ct G and a 2 ct I, you'll find me sporting the 2 ct all day, errrrday.
:lol: :lol: :lol:

What about a 1.40ish I vs a 1.75 K premium select? See my post #19. That's 7.70mm vs roughly 7.20mm. :appl:
 

msop04

Ideal_Rock
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:lol: :lol: :lol:

What about a 1.40ish I vs a 1.75 K premium select? See my post #19. That's 7.70mm vs roughly 7.20mm. :appl:
That's a tough choice... dang... since they're from WF, I'd get the 7.2 I, then start saving to upgrade the size. But the size difference didn't look as noticeable as I thought it would, TBH.
 

mrs-b

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OP was clear he wanted a BN stone. So let's stay with that.

OP, I see the list of 4 you posted above;

The first one is too deep and you're losing size.
The third has a weak facet pattern; see how the arrows aren't nearly as clear as the one I posted? It would also be noticeably smaller, altho its general stats are good and it's a very clean stone.
The third is pretty good. Has good stats, is clean and - at an I color - is whiter. But again, I'm not fond of the facet pattern. The arrows, as you can see, are very skinny. And it's a thousand dollars more expensive. If your budget runs to 8.5k, let me know and I'll take another pass at what's available.

I'm not going to change your mind on the setting - the lady wants what the lady wants! - but can you add a link to the design so we can see what you're looking at? Setting makes a difference.

In the meantime, call Blue Nile and make sure that 1.52ct stone is eye clean. I do that with pretty much all the diamonds I buy, if buying sight unseen. It's just good practice. And, if you decide you like it, put it on hold. BN will hold a diamond for 48-72 hours, and you might want to do that here to be on the safe side; stones that get recommended in threads tend to get snapped up by lurkers, and a 1.5ct diamond by BN would be a prime target!

ETA My first sentence sounded very reprimand-y - sorry! It wasn't meant to.
 

crimsonbear

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OP was clear he wanted a BN stone. So let's stay with that.

OP, I see the list of 4 you posted above;

The first one is too deep and you're losing size.
The third has a weak facet pattern; see how the arrows aren't nearly as clear as the one I posted? It would also be noticeably smaller, altho its general stats are good and it's a very clean stone.
The third is pretty good. Has good stats, is clean and - at an I color - is whiter. But again, I'm not fond of the facet pattern. The arrows, as you can see, are very skinny. And it's a thousand dollars more expensive. If your budget runs to 8.5k, let me know and I'll take another pass at what's available.

I'm not going to change your mind on the setting - the lady wants what the lady wants! - but can you add a link to the design so we can see what you're looking at? Setting makes a difference.

In the meantime, call Blue Nile and make sure that 1.52ct stone is eye clean. I do that with pretty much all the diamonds I buy, if buying sight unseen. It's just good practice. And, if you decide you like it, put it on hold. BN will hold a diamond for 48-72 hours, and you might want to do that here to be on the safe side; stones that get recommended in threads tend to get snapped up by lurkers, and a 1.5ct diamond by BN would be a prime target!

ETA My first sentence sounded very reprimand-y - sorry! It wasn't meant to.
Thanks @mrs-b, here's the setting she loves. It does seem a little small for what I was originally thinking, but she just loves that twist pattern and we haven't been able to find anything exactly like it elsewhere:

https://www.bluenile.com/build-your-own-ring/double-rollover-pave-diamond-engagement-ring_60424
 

mrs-b

Ideal_Rock
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Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
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Thanks @mrs-b, here's the setting she loves. It does seem a little small for what I was originally thinking, but she just loves that twist pattern and we haven't been able to find anything exactly like it elsewhere:

https://www.bluenile.com/build-your-own-ring/double-rollover-pave-diamond-engagement-ring_60424
Oh! How lovely! I like that a lot. :))

One suggestion - when you place your order with BN, ask them if they can slim down the prongs, and ask if they're able to do claw prongs. I've worked with BN MANY times (dozens, at least), and while their products are great, their prong work is pretty poor. They tend towards 'lumpy'. So ask if they offer the possibility to trim the prongs and make them claws, which are far more elegant and will be far less distracting from your center stone.

Good luck, and do let us see photos of your final ring choice - we love that stuff here!
 
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