Because GIA 's Excellent cut criteria is broad and can allow for less desirable angle combos to get the ex cut grade. Also be cautious of so called Ideal Cut, Premium Cut labels when used by vendors, these are no guarantee of a well cut diamond. Also remember the HCA is used as a first round elimination tool, it isn't used for selection. It is always best to carefully evaluate each diamond on its own desirable visual and physical properties regardless of cut grade.
It could be the second diamond has steep deep angles which accounts for the poor HCA score. Your jeweller is unfortunately misinformed that if a diamond is graded as Excellent or Ideal cut that it is automatically a well cut diamond. This is not the case. The only meaningful use of the term Ideal Cut pertains to AGS0 Ideal Cut grade which for the most part should get you a well cut diamond, otherwise proceed with extreme caution.
The first got VG because of the depth and is also a steep angled combo as I originally estimated, the second because of the shallower pavilion angle. From the info we have I would be most interested in the second diamond out of the two, but I would like to see an ASET or Idealscope image for this diamond due to the shallow pavilion angle, do you have the girdle thicknesses too please?
This one is hovering around a steeper angled range also, can you get an ASET or Idealscope image for this diamond if it is online - or do I take it you can see these diamonds in person? Don't feel overwhelmed - you are on the right track and I will try to make this as easy as possible for you and try not to overcomplicate things!
It just means the girdle is considered medium and faceted, this page explains further. Most diamonds have a faceted girdle rather than bruted or other finishes.
If you can see the diamond in person check it out away from the store lights to make sure it is eyeclean to your standards and that you like how it looks in everyday lighting. If the diamond is being sold online, you will need to ask the vendor to check it is eyeclean and make your expectations known concerning this. For example, if you don't want to see any inclusions at close scrutiny from any angle, make sure the vendor knows that so you are both on the same page. Also if the diamond is online, ask for an ASET or Idealscope image of the diamond.
You can use the search tool Pricescope your Diamond above, this will give prices for online diamonds which are typically cheaper than brick and mortar stores. No real way to tell exact prices as stores can vary so much, but the search tool will give a rough idea if you use that as a lowball figure.
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