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Can someone explain to me the importance of hearts and arrows?

K

Kazamaki

Rough_Rock
Joined
Nov 14, 2017
Messages
17
Hi,

Over the past few months Ive been learning more and more about diamonds. I have a basic understanding of what the hearts and arrows are and what they look like, but could somebody explain to me the importance of hearts and arrows?
Do all round diamonds have hearts and arrows Or is it only a certain cut? What is a good H&A?

Also aren't H&A only showing you 2 of the 8 sets of facets? Don't the others need to be considered as just as important too?

What's surprised me is the negativity from some high-end jewellery stores when you ask about the hearts and arrows aset images or use an ideal scope. One sales rep said that H&A don't really exist (not sure what was meant by this).

When I went to see what the Tiffany's experience was like, I viewed a couple of diamonds and asked about the H&A. I was stopped halfway through my sentence by the store representative who exclaimed "that's not us". I was assured that their cut is the best. When I asked about the diamond's cut proportions, I was questioned about why I would want to know this level of information and again re-assured that Tiffany only sells the finest cuts.

It seems to be a very important matter online yet a somewhat sensitive topic in the stores.

(Also thanks to everyone here who keep helping me learn more).
 
.
H&A ... is a certain pattern of internal reflections, formed in Round Brilliants Cut - RBC, diamond, made to a certain range of proportions, and very fine symmetry defined somewhat differently than the 'Symmetry' parameter on gemmological reports ... (they are related, but not identical - a long story).

Kazamaki said:
Also aren't H&A only showing you 2 of the 8 sets of facets? Don't the others need to be considered as just as important too?
Click to expand...

No. Everythign matters.

Footnote:
I say 'a certain pattern' because many others may form, once the proportions of the RBC vary. Fine symmetry is needed to get a symmetrical pattern... sure enough, no matter what the pattern is. There is no varation accepted (to speak of) in the H&A pattern, considered as a brand of RBC these days.

2c

Take a look: WWW (random RBC recut to H&A)

____
Disclaimer: I have heard of the H&A pattern as a way of perfecting & recognizing perfection in RBC ... back when I joined this forum. I staid on ... & still have an interest in these things, not least because of how elegant this H&A idea seemed once & since ! I do not believe that there is no (diamond) 'life' without H&A, for sure. The H&A is a particularly fine breed, relatively easy to identify & appreciate ... among many beautiful complications out there !
 
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It just so happens when the facets are optically aligned in some of the better proportion sets in a a modern round brilliant cut a hearts and arrows pattern is visible in a special viewer.
The arrows are visible face up in the right viewing conditions to the eye.
The hearts are not visible to the naked eye.
The arrows are primarlly formed by the pavilion mains being aligned.
The hearts on the other hand are formed by the interaction of more facets.
Perfect arrows and imperfect hearts in the same stone is possible and common.

The theory behind h&a being better is that when the facets are optically aligned they work better together giving stronger light return, and more even contrast.
Improvements in cutting process and tools has made h&a diamonds much more common than in the past.
Consistent production of h&a diamonds at the highest levels still takes a special process but that process is no longer as far removed from the normal process as it once was in the past.
 
When they dismiss your questions regarding hearts and arrows cut, that simply means that they don't sell diamonds of that cut quality. You have every right to know exactly what you are buying. Don't let jewelers that have such a thing to offer to put off your questions.
 
Kazamaki said:
Hi,
It seems to be a very important matter online yet a somewhat sensitive topic in the stores.
Click to expand...
b/c they don't carry "top ideal H&A cuts"..;))
 
But they don't want you know, so you hopefully don't go buy from somewhere else (that does carry them).
 
If you hear this they realize they have a customer who knows what he or she is buying OR they simply don't know what they are doing. I've been to some non mall diamond retailers who have told me the former. Its so off-putting and I consider it a lie. Once credibility is lost there is no reason to do business with someone IMO. Then you have the other case where you might be at a mall chain jeweler that is staffed with kids rather than experts. Tiffany's interest is to protect their franchise. At the end of the day, whatever they sell as far as the rock, can be purchased elsewhere so they have a vested interest in making their product seem exclusive. The setting, which can be replicated without infringement, and the box is what you are buying. The are protecting the premium they charge for perceived brand exclusiveness.
 
Karl_K said:
It just so happens when the facets are optically aligned in some of the better proportion sets in a a modern round brilliant cut a hearts and arrows pattern is visible in a special viewer.
The arrows are visible face up in the right viewing conditions to the eye.
The hearts are not visible to the naked eye.
The arrows are primarlly formed by the pavilion mains being aligned.
The hearts on the other hand are formed by the interaction of more facets.
Perfect arrows and imperfect hearts in the same stone is possible and common.

The theory behind h&a being better is that when the facets are optically aligned they work better together giving stronger light return, and more even contrast.
Improvements in cutting process and tools has made h&a diamonds much more common than in the past.
Consistent production of h&a diamonds at the highest levels still takes a special process but that process is no longer as far removed from the normal process as it once was in the past.
Click to expand...
@Karl_K I wish you could go to Tiffany and just explain that to any one SA. And I wish I could be there to see it happen. :mrgreen2:
 
I bounced 3-4 emails back and forth to the Tiffany’s SA asking for the proportions. I was first challenged about why I’d want to know this, then reassured the cut is best, then asked to provide a telephone number so they could discuss “my concerns”, then finally when they agreed to send them, it never came through. There was no follow up. As you said above, as a buyer you have the right to know what you’re buying.
 
Brand envy:
 
It is a beautiful car though you have to admit.
 
Tiffany's doesn't sell truly ugly diamonds, they just haven't branded themselves as a seller of super-ideals and that's not the sort of thing that they think about when they think about their image. It would be a waste of money for them to put superideals in their high fashion designer exclusive settings so they don't do it. I think it's mostly a question of what you are looking for. "Ooh, you have a Tiffany's!" "Ooh, that's the sparkliest diamond I've ever seen." Or even what you want to look at all day.
 
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