CADs are here - help needed please!

[FutureChocolateMLK]

I just got my first CAD from DK for the .60ct I purchased from Ritani.

I’ve attached my inspiration photos with notes as well. My initial reaction is underwhelming. I think it’s the proportions. Can I get some opinions from someone with more experience than me?

 

[Txborn79]

Looks like the proportions are off. In your inspiration photo, the halo stones look to be about half the size of the center diamond and on the cad they look closer to about a third.

 

[FutureChocolateMLK]

Looks like the proportions are off. In your inspiration photo, the halo stones look to be about half the size of the center diamond and on the cad they look closer to about a third.

Yeah, I replied to David already and told him if I need to downsize the center stone for it to make sense proportionately, I can. I don’t want it to look too floral and prefer the cluster style.

 

[FutureChocolateMLK]

Second CAD. I still think it’s reading too floral and not enough “cluster.”

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

3mm accents are too large for the look you want with a 5.5mm.
Try 2.5 to 2.7 mm for your accent stones. That will give more of a cluster appearance.

 

[FutureChocolateMLK]

3mm accents are too large for the look you want with a 5.5mm.
Try 2.5 to 2.7 mm for your accent stones. That will give more of a cluster appearance.

I’m thinking they need to be bigger to achieve the look I’m wanting. Here’s another example of a .40ct center with .10ct halo stones. The accent stones are a lot closer in size to the center. Still wondering if I should downsize the diamond I ordered to get the look I want.

ETA: I might be mistaken and the ring is .80 TOTAL carat weight. I’ve emailed the seller to confirm. My brain is fried from researching this. Custom can be stressful!

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

Oh, I misunderstood! The new example you show is what I think of as floral, more than cluster. In that case try bumping them to 3.2-3.5mm. Also remember that the prong metal will add to visual size. Is there a total mm spread for the ring you're trying to stay within? That would be a reason to have a smaller center, otherwise it's just tweaking accents until you get the ratio your eyes love.

 

[FutureChocolateMLK]

Oh, I misunderstood! The new example you show is what I think of as floral, more than cluster. In that case try bumping them to 3.2-3.5mm. Also remember that the prong metal will add to visual size. Is there a total mm spread for the ring you're trying to stay within? That would be a reason to have a smaller center, otherwise it's just tweaking accents until you get the ratio your eyes love.

Haha! No worries! I’m not concerned so much about the spread as I am the overall look. Although, the more finger coverage the better since I’m a size 8. I just plan on a round bezel halo for my future engagement ring and I don’t want this (which will be a RHR) to compete. I want them to be very different in appearance but they’ll both have vintage elements. I asked David for his input so I’m hoping it won’t take much more to get it where I want it.

What do you think about the height? Does it look too “squatty?” I won’t wear a band with it if that makes a difference on your opinion. And do the shoulders look ok or possibly lowered slightly?

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

Most people will tell you that yes, it is little squatty. Raising it a mm wouldn't hurt the design.
I'm rare in that I prefer my rings as low as possible and I like the shoulders where they are. It causes it to almost wear as a band following the curve of the finger. I tend to wear my rings and I don't particularly baby them- so my preferences might not reflect the norm. So, for me, perfect. I wouldn't touch it. It being lower set and classic in design will be plenty of distinction.

 

[Rfisher]

Just strictly speaking on comparing your 2nd CAD to your inspo with the person wearing a cafe au lait sleeve and with a little rudimentary cut and paste - making the center stone the same size -

The proportions to them both are then pretty darn similar.
What I see as contributing to what may be viewed as a difference in proportion aside from ring size (keeping that inspo photo as the main target) as the difference is maybe maybe the cad has more of a tilt to the cluster stones than the inspo does. Hard to tell without a side view. And the inspo has visible metal surrounding the cluster on the outside - the CAD doesn’t.

Obviously this doesn’t mean to ultimately get the look you want to see on your finger you only can/have to use the same exact as the inspo - just throwing out there that it may not be the sidestone to center % that’s what throwing you off

 

[FutureChocolateMLK]

Just strictly speaking on comparing your 2nd CAD to your inspo with the person wearing a cafe au lait sleeve and with a little rudimentary cut and paste - making the center stone the same size -

The proportions to them both are then pretty darn similar.
What I see as contributing to what may be viewed as a difference in proportion aside from ring size (keeping that inspo photo as the main target) as the difference is maybe maybe the cad has more of a tilt to the cluster stones than the inspo does. Hard to tell without a side view. And the inspo has visible metal surrounding the cluster on the outside - the CAD doesn’t.

Obviously this doesn’t mean to ultimately get the look you want to see on your finger you only can/have to use the same exact as the inspo - just throwing out there that it may not be the sidestone to center % that’s what throwing you off

I was actually looking at that exact point last night, wondering if the tilt was what was throwing me off. You have an excellent eye and I’m thankful you weighed in. The inspiration ring is a stock setting from Victor Barbone, the Giselle.

Giselle

The Giselle Vintage Engagement Ring is a Victorian cluster style ring. The cluster centers an approximate 0.42 carat Old Mine Cut diamond with halo.

www.victorbarbone.com

After pouring over this ring, the CAD from DK, and the second photo I shared of the 1st Dibs ring, I’m not sure what to change. I’m liking the closer sizes on the 1st Dibs proportions more and more. Thus rendering me more and more confused. I need to think about all of it over the weekend and see where I land. I tend to get analysis paralysis pretty easily anyway. DK did say he may be able to shift the prongs and make the halo stones a touch larger so I told him to try that before we did anything else drastic like downsizing the center or having him send me a wax model. I’m just waiting for his response.

Thanks again for your insight!

 

[FutureChocolateMLK]

David has been tweaking the proportions, and this is as big as he can go without the center being smaller. Thoughts?

 

[FutureChocolateMLK]

And here’s a side by side of CAD 2 vs CAD 3

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

It looks very much like a Giselle. Was there any change to the angle or are you happy with the curvature on the finger?

 

[emmy12]

You mentioned above that you don't like the floral look. The negative space (marked in yellow) between the outer rounds might need to be visually filled in to get rid of this effect. The prong at the tip of the outer rounds can also make the "petal" effect more pronounced.

I don't know if either of these things bother you, but if it does you may need to change how the gallery is being done, or change the prong configuration.

 

[FutureChocolateMLK]

It looks very much like a Giselle. Was there any change to the angle or are you happy with the curvature on the finger?

Here’s the gallery view. I think I’m happy with it!

 

[FutureChocolateMLK]

You mentioned above that you don't like the floral look. The negative space (marked in yellow) between the outer rounds might need to be visually filled in to get rid of this effect. The prong at the tip of the outer rounds can also make the "petal" effect more pronounced.

I don't know if either of these things bother you, but if it does you may need to change how the gallery is being done, or change the prong configuration.

I’ve considered this, but of all the designs I’ve poured over this is what is most pleasing to my eye. I think IRL they’ll be more delicate and less pronounced. I just didn’t want the big “daisy petal” look with a lot of space in between the stones. If you have any suggestions for an alternative, I’m always open to that!

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

Here’s the gallery view. I think I’m happy with it!

I'd be happy, too. It's lovely. Can't wait for pictures! My next ring will definitely be a 'low rider'.

 

[FutureChocolateMLK]

I'd be happy, too. It's lovely. Can't wait for pictures! My next ring will definitely be a 'low rider'.

This will be a RHR so I’m wanting something low maintenance. David wants to send me a wax model before we move forward so that will be the next step!

 

[FutureChocolateMLK]

Wax model came, and I promptly snapped the band in half. ‍ These are the best shots I could get. I’ll be honest…I still think the proportions are off. The return window on the diamond has closed so I’m mulling over options.

 

[emmy12]

Sadly, I think the daisy effect in full force. My thoughts are that it is either the prong arrangement or the outer cluster stones are too large

 

[FutureChocolateMLK]

Sadly, I think the daisy effect in full force. My thoughts are that it is either the prong arrangement or the outer cluster stones are too large

I think it’s the outer prongs like we discussed before, but I think the center stone needs to be smaller to achieve the look I’m wanting. This was my fear, compounded with the fact that the stone I have is no longer returnable. I’m trying to decide on selling it on LT vs. keeping it and using it for a different project.

 

[emmy12]

It has to be possible. Maybe consider changing the shape of the cluster stones to old mine or cushion sides to get less negative space between them?

For example: this is a 0.9x ct round center and it doesn't look that daisy-ish with the old mines on the outside.

Edwardian 2.77 CTW Old European & Old Mine Cut Diamond Platinum 18 Karat Yellow Gold Antique Cluster Engagement Ring

Centering an old European cut diamond weighing approximately 0.93 carat total - I color with VS2 clarity Set by talon prongs with a cluster surround.

www.wilsonsestatejewelry.com

 

[FutureChocolateMLK]

It has to be possible. Maybe consider changing the shape of the cluster stones to old mine or cushion sides to get less negative space between them?

For example: this is a 0.9x ct round center and it doesn't look that daisy-ish with the old mines on the outside.

Edwardian 2.77 CTW Old European & Old Mine Cut Diamond Platinum 18 Karat Yellow Gold Antique Cluster Engagement Ring

Centering an old European cut diamond weighing approximately 0.93 carat total - I color with VS2 clarity Set by talon prongs with a cluster surround.

www.wilsonsestatejewelry.com

I think having double prongs on the outer edges on each stone instead of one helps a lot visually!

 

[FutureChocolateMLK]

I had him modify the prongs to eliminate the outer ones. Inspiration from an antique piece I saw on Instagram.

 

[emmy12]

I had him modify the prongs to eliminate the outer ones. Inspiration from an antique piece I saw on Instagram.

This one looks very promising!

 

[FutureChocolateMLK]

This one looks very promising!

I really like it. Don’t think I’d change a thing!

 

[momofive]

I think it's great. Eliminates the daisy effect. Smart move.

 

[FutureChocolateMLK]

I think it's great. Eliminates the daisy effect. Smart move.

I think so too. I’m not even sure I’ll request a wax model, I’ll probably just move forward. I hope I love it! If not, there’s always LT

 

[momofive]

Well, let's hope you don't have to go there.