CAD help 3 stone OMC ring

[bee24]

Hello!
Attached are photos I received for 3 stone ring. Center stone is 2.76 omc and side stones are 1.2 ctw omcs.

I see a few issues but I’ve never made a custom ring so I’d love some insight. Here are my thoughts:

The ring seems a bit heavy to me. I think it is the double basket/swoop (not sure what to call that) and perhaps the shoulders? I made a very basic edit on my iPhone to compare other options, the photo that has three comparisons, top is original, middle no shoulders, bottom no shoulders and no double basket. But my thought is the double basket adds security…especially without a donut?

I don’t love the design that is on the shank(?). I do like the idea of some Milgrain/design but I am not liking what they’ve come up with so far… I want a subtle surprise design and this one doesn’t quite do it for me.

I prefer petite claw prongs.

I would like to highlight the cushion shape of my stones. I considered double claw prongs but I think for security I want 8. I added a comparison picture where I changed the prong placement, it’s the photo with two pictures of the prongs. I think my version highlights the shape more. Thoughts?

My biggest question is donut or not. It seems like no donut means the stones are sitting higher and could make it more vulnerable? I do like the option to do a detail on the bar below the stones without a donut. Buttttt is a donut the best option for a 3 stone ring, I do intend to wear it regularly.

Am I missing anything else? I plan to ask for measurements as they were obviously not included. Band will be 2mm- I think.

Sorry for all the thoughts/questions. I considered waiting posting for assistance until the next round but decided all the experts here may have insight. Many thanks!!!

 

[Rfisher]

I’m not an expert, but I think it looks really pretty, not looking like a heavy setting. (But really it does much depend on what the finished items actually look like that the vendor has produced before).

It looks like a large diamond on a small finger size!

(Snuck a peek at your other thread with the stones and they are gorgeous!)

Imo - I like the version with shoulders better.
The swirl detail could easily be changed to milgrain or double milgrain or another design. I’d ask if it was going to be casted in, or hand applied as they give different results. Maybe casted in and then hand carved/engraved for depth and delicacy?- that sounds kinda interesting!

On it being too high, hard to tell with a rendering how accurate the depth of your stone measurement compared to height of ring /basket and what is air under the center stone culet.
I think if it’s lowered- you’ll need to change degree of tuck/tilt on the sidestones and that’s another personal opinion of what you want to see.

I think the 8 prongs will protect it well if you are concerned about that. (Love the 6/8/6 prong config!) I like your altered center prong position for cushion shape but I wonder if the vendor will also want to rotate the side stone prong orientation for fit (and that will require shoulder detail tweaking but nbd ) or if they’ll be able to smoosh it in with the two adjacent prongs in the same space - and if that changes the placement/tuck/tilt of those sidestones or not.

Hope you show plenty of pics when it’s done!!

 

[tyty333]

I like it with the cathedral sides. I also like the 3rd option for the gallery (without the center Vs between the prongs). I wonder
how it would look if you did 4 prongs on the side stones since they are .6ish? That would also lighten up the look. I do like the 6/8/6
prong config. A mock-up of a 4/6/4 prong orientation could be worth a look. I have seen where the cathedral comes up and puts
a 5th prong on a 4/6/4 prong orientation.

Here is a 4/6/4 orientation.

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I really like the setting though.

Have you considered heavy beading in that upper shank area?
This is what I mean by heavy beading (where the shank splits):

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This shank has some pretty engraving on it that might be a possibility in that upper shank area. It also has some heavy beading on it.

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Definitely prefer the foldover flat prongs...CADs dont usually show the final prongs. They usually show default prongs in my
experience and you need to discuss it with them to make sure you get the prong tips you want.

 

[bee24]

@Rfisher and @tyty333

Great thoughts, thank you! Sorry, I should have referenced my other post! I’ll link it and add a pic of the stones. The more I look at it, I am liking it more and more. I think the prongs seem so prominent to me so I think it’s worth seeing what 4/6/4 and 4/8/4. Six prongs on the .6s seem like a lot. I did another very rudimentary edit leaving shoulders but taking the Vs out. I think I also may want them softened to U shape rather than V.

I had been thinking some beading! I added some inspiration pics I had planned to send, I hadn’t sent any ideas for the shank prior so I think this will help guide the design better.

Help deciding on this OMC??

Hello! I’ve been on a hunt for a new ring (3 stone OEC initially but have expanded to other ideas) but I’ve come across this OMC. I think it’s lovely. I can seen it’s worn on the girdle which I think is pretty typical for antique cuts. The very shows a chip and a cavity which worries me. I was...

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[tyty333]

I like that last mockup you just posted. It seems airier and a tad more well-balanced.

 

[Dreamer_D]

@bee24 any updates on your ring??

 

[bee24]

Hi @Dreamer_D! Thanks for asking!

I’m pretty stuck in the Cad process. I was going to post something asking for advice but hadn’t gotten around to it (just got to Alaska for the summer). I think my issue is partially that reviewing cads is totally new to me but also something seems off (or many things?!).

I attached pictures of the latest round. I do not love the design options. The prongs are not quite right. They said they were petite claws but I see a mix of tabs/claws. It also just looks off to me. I’m back at the drawing board literally and figuratively. I’m debating doing something completely different but don’t know what yet. I still want to do a three stone and lovvvvvve my diamonds, just rethinking.

There are two versions in the cads- two different prong orientation and two different designs.

Looking forward to seeing your 20yr anniversary project!

 

[Dreamer_D]

These look the same to me lol!

i prefer rings with donuts at the base on the basket. I feel like it creates a more elegant line for the prong work. Maybe that’s what your eye is seeking? Just an idea. What you have is lovely.

 

[0515vision]

To my eye, the portion of the band with the engraving is quite thick. When you see your inspo photograph, the portion with engraving seen from the side isn't as thick as the prongs. But on your CAD, that portion is much thicker than the prongs. I realize this may partly be due to security, but there might be a way to decrease that a bit.

You also mentioned that you wanted the cushion shape highlighted. Maybe you can do this with 6 prongs. You initially made the mockup with 8-prongs including north-south prongs. But if you take away those two prongs, I think the remaining 6 will give it a slightly more squarish look. With 6-prongs, the security will likely still be there.

Additionally, the CAD makes your center stone look rather round-ish. If they tweaked the center stone to look more like your actual stone, you may get a better sense of your ring.

As far as tabs and claws are concerned, ask them to please make them all petite claws. Every little detail really counts on a CAD. It's hard to fall in love with someone you're imagining. You're fighting against the depiction that's right in front of your eyes. Good luck!

 

[bee24]

@0515vision - I somehow missed your reply! Usually I get an email when someone replies but I didn’t, sorry. Yes, I think that’s part of it. The area of the design is too thick. The design in general reminds me of seaweed/kelp. I like the beading but don’t love it… I’m wondering if what I want is engraving and this is actually a design that will be poured in the wax mold? If that makes sense, I don’t know the right verbiage.

I went with 8 prongs as the stone is old and has some wear on the girdle so I wanted it to be protected!

I was told these were petite claws but I sent a picture to demonstrate what I want because these seem much more tab/square shaped to me.

@Dreamer_D I’m wondering if I should do donuts like you suggested. Nearly all my inspiration pics have donuts, yours included! Why do you prefer rings w donuts? I’ve read that there are possible benefits in the diamonds sitting lower and less spinning.

The picture below was my inspiration for engraving which I think is why their cads do not have donuts, though I sent others with donuts. I want this to be wearable though and I worry their current design is not going to work.

I took about a month off due to travel etc. but I’m really ready to move forward so I need to fine tune my requests for the next cads. I think I’ll give my local jeweler/bench one more round before I “break up” with them…..

 

[Dreamer_D]

@bee24 I just think donuts help ground the ring visually to the finger and I like my diamonds to feel grounded to my finger not perched on top. It’s just an aesthetic preference. And yes, hand engraving applied after casting will yield a much more delicate and refined look. In my experience it is not terribly expensive, but it certainly costs more than cast markings like shown in your CAD. I feel fairly certain your inspiration has hand applied engraving based in its delicacy and organic feel.

 

[bee24]

Hi all! I changed directions after multiple miscommunications/delays with a local bench and I am now working with DK. DK/team have been so wonderful, I am so impressed with their efficiency. I am happy with the baskets but I have been trying to decide what shoulder design I want. I’m embarrassed to say how many shoulder variations we have gone through! I’ve attached a picture of 4 (!) shoulder designs.

Does anyone know of any reverse tapered band on a three stone ring? I feel like I have scoured the internet and can only find solitaires w reverse taper. That is my current favorite (far left) but I’m beginning to fear I will be bothered by the reverse taper… and I would love to see a real life photo. I liked the idea of the sides blending into the prongs, similar to the inspiration picture below. I am contemplating just doing a simple band with no extra design because I just want it done!

I’ve also flip flopped on donut size so I added a comparison picture. I do intend to have a cushion shaped donut not round. I think the band should be 2mm though the picture shows 1.8.

Thanks!

 

[Dreamer_D]

I have a strong preference for the wider donut. Since there is no prong for the taper to meet, I prefer a plain shank. The shank in the image you attached of a real ring is also very interesting,

 

[bee24]

I have a strong preference for the wider donut. Since there is no prong for the taper to meet, I prefer a plain shank. The shank in the image you attached of a real ring is also very interesting,

As always @Dreamer_D , thanks for your reply! This one splits to attach to the two prongs…these pictures show it better. But that would require a reverse taper which has stumped me…I could rotate the baskets but I do like that the side view all the baskets are oriented the same.

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

As always @Dreamer_D , thanks for your reply! This one splits to attach to the two prongs…these pictures show it better. But that would require a reverse taper which has stumped me…I could rotate the baskets but I do like that the side view all the baskets are oriented the same.

Well, to stick my oar in, this is my favorite iteration, though it's neck and neck with the 'quatrefoil' version.

 

[Dreamer_D]

As always @Dreamer_D , thanks for your reply! This one splits to attach to the two prongs…these pictures show it better. But that would require a reverse taper which has stumped me…I could rotate the baskets but I do like that the side view all the baskets are oriented the same.

I love this one as-is lol though I suppose I prefer wider donuts.

I was confused about “reverse taper” as depending on perspective it could mean many things. I didn’t like the one that tapered to a point by the basket because the point didn’t meet a prong. I like this one that widens as it meets the basket because it aligns with the prongs.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I vote you stop obsessing about it as ask Amy her favourite and get it in your finger.

 

[bee24]

I love this one as-is lol though I suppose I prefer wider donuts.

I was confused about “reverse taper” as depending on perspective it could mean many things. I didn’t like the one that tapered to a point by the basket because the point didn’t meet a prong. I like this one that widens as it meets the basket because it aligns with the prongs.

I misunderstood you! Yes this version is my favorite for the same reasons…I have been trying to find a “real life” version of a three stone that widens where it meets the stones but have struggled, though I’ve seen a few split shank!

I vote you stop obsessing about it as ask Amy her favourite and get it in your finger.

I cannot help it lol but I agree, must be done with it.

 

[jjca]

I really struggled with finding a 3 stone setting I liked but David was so patient and after a few tweaks we got to exactly what I was dreaming up.
One thing I love about it is that the side stones aren't on a steep angle. I wonder if a less steep angle would help you get closer to what you're looking for? (The prongs look chunky zoomed in, but it's very feminine in person).

 

[Lookinagain]

I like this one best of the ones you've posted

 

[Dreamer_D]

It will look great. Go for it.

 

[bee24]

Well, to stick my oar in, this is my favorite iteration, though it's neck and neck with the 'quatrefoil' version.

@ItsMainelyYou Thank you! I really love the quatrefoil one too but felt like I was adding too many elements…

I really struggled with finding a 3 stone setting I liked but David was so patient and after a few tweaks we got to exactly what I was dreaming up.
One thing I love about it is that the side stones aren't on a steep angle. I wonder if a less steep angle would help you get closer to what you're looking for? (The prongs look chunky zoomed in, but it's very feminine in person).

@jjca I had seen your posts about a three stone ring and have been wondering if it was finished! It’s lovely! Thank you for the advice, I have been analyzing the angle for the side stones so I appreciate seeing yours!

I like this one best of the ones you've posted

@Lookinagain
Thank you! It’s been hard when there are so many possibilities….

 

[jjca]

@jjca I had seen your posts about a three stone ring and have been wondering if it was finished! It’s lovely! Thank you for the advice, I have been analyzing the angle for the side stones so I appreciate seeing yours!

I wasn’t planning on having to go through this process, and was unprepared... I spent hours online trying to find something I liked (only to come up empty). I wanted my center stone to sit higher than the sides (which is what made my search so hard). I like that your plans have it sitting higher, too. I wasted 3 months working with a local jeweler to realize we were not a good match before I found David Klass through PS. I wish I had found him sooner.

I love your CADs (and your stones are gorgeous) I can imagine how hard it is to pick just one setting.
Good luck - can’t wait to come back to this thread someday soon to see what you end up with.

 

[bee24]

I wasn’t planning on having to go through this process, and was unprepared... I spent hours online trying to find something I liked (only to come up empty). I wanted my center stone to sit higher than the sides (which is what made my search so hard). I like that your plans have it sitting higher, too. I wasted 3 months working with a local jeweler to realize we were not a good match before I found David Klass through PS. I wish I had found him sooner.

I love your CADs (and your stones are gorgeous) I can imagine how hard it is to pick just one setting.
Good luck - can’t wait to come back to this thread someday soon to see what you end up with.

@jjca
We have very similar stories! I have spent so many hours searching online and worked with a local place for months with no success! I have been very happy with the Klass/team!

It does look like your stones are slightly less angled than my CADs. I don’t know enough to know if mine angled too much lol.

Glad your ring is done after a long search, it is so lovely! I finally feel like I am so close too!

 

[bee24]

@Dreamer_D
I think the wider donuts are perfect! I’m still deciding on the two tone in the shoulder, may just do all yellow gold…but it’s close!

 

[Dreamer_D]

Gorgeous. I would do platinum baskets but everything else, including the bridge/donuts, in gold personally. I find the platinum baskets makes the diamonds stand out because it really disappears.

 

[jjca]

Beautiful! Need to share those glamour shots!

 

[tyty333]

I really struggled with finding a 3 stone setting I liked but David was so patient and after a few tweaks we got to exactly what I was dreaming up.
One thing I love about it is that the side stones aren't on a steep angle. I wonder if a less steep angle would help you get closer to what you're looking for? (The prongs look chunky zoomed in, but it's very feminine in person).

Your ring turned out very pretty @jjca . Be sure to add it to

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[bee24]

@Dreamer_D I have thought of doing this, I love your ring and many other PSers that have platinum baskets, my worry is that my center stone is an M…but I have also worried that it would then take on the yellow of the gold more. I see the color of the stone in certain lighting, of course, I don’t necessarily want to highlight that but I’m not always sure which basket color will do that more.

 

[Dreamer_D]

My diamond is a L and it look blazing white in platinum. In my experience with many old cuts this color range, yellow gold baskets make them look more yellow. These stones are leaky and they are strongly affected by whatever surrounds them. In my opinion if you want to emphasize the tint use yellow gold prongs and if you want a neutral background for the stones use platinum.

EDIT: I think this is apparent in the pictures you posted. The stone looks more neutral with white metal (the lighting is obviously different from picture to pictures but I still think it’s apparent.)