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CAD Check please. Would love your thoughts!

bbxin

Rough_Rock
Joined
Apr 21, 2022
Messages
5
hi all – this is my 1st cad check for my custom bridal set. the prongs will not be up like that when diamonds are set. my engagement ring is a twisted pave band with tulip prongs and hidden halo. the wedding band is floating round diamonds with 3 prongs.

sorry, this is long but i would love your thoughts!
  • i originally wanted the engagement ring to be 2mm but because it’s a twisted band, the pave may not be as noticeable as each twist would be 1mm. my ring size is 2.5 so i’m scared 2.5mm might look thick. is it worth going down to 2.2mm or 2.3mm? would it make it a bit more “dainty” or am i overthinking it?​
  • thoughts on adding a cathedral and euro shank?
  • on the first pic, bottom left, it looks like the twisted pave isn’t symmetrical? it stops half way on the left whereas the right it goes more down. is this how the ring will actually look like or will pave be the same length on each side?​
  • i’m seeing lines (not sure what they’re actually called) on the twisted pave where there aren’t any diamonds. is the actual ring going to have those or will it be smooth?​
  • what are your thoughts on the wedding band (second & third pics)? i wanted floating diamonds and decided on 3 prongs for more security but am questioning the style now…​
  • thoughts overall?​

1. er.jpg
 

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foxinsox

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 18, 2015
Messages
4,066
hi all – this is my 1st cad check for my custom bridal set. the prongs will not be up like that when diamonds are set. my engagement ring is a twisted pave band with tulip prongs and hidden halo. the wedding band is floating round diamonds with 3 prongs.

sorry, this is long but i would love your thoughts!
  • i originally wanted the engagement ring to be 2mm but because it’s a twisted band, the pave may not be as noticeable as each twist would be 1mm. my ring size is 2.5 so i’m scared 2.5mm might look thick. is it worth going down to 2.2mm or 2.3mm? would it make it a bit more “dainty” or am i overthinking it?​
  • thoughts on adding a cathedral and euro shank?

    How would the shank/twists sit with the tulip prongs if you did want a cathedral?
    Euro shank could help with spinning.
  • on the first pic, bottom left, it looks like the twisted pave isn’t symmetrical? it stops half way on the left whereas the right it goes more down. is this how the ring will actually look like or will pave be the same length on each side?​

    If you look at the picture next to the one you’re referencing, I think what you’re seeing is the pave twisting back across the shank.
    4B775558-EBD7-4C80-B2C4-A5947CAC0EC1.jpeg
    I drew lines to show what I think you’re talking about.
  • i’m seeing lines (not sure what they’re actually called) on the twisted pave where there aren’t any diamonds. is the actual ring going to have those or will it be smooth?​

    C1A17505-F130-4958-A1C0-3D27E44CF237.jpeg
    The lines here? I assume they’re some sort of measurement marks in the cad but ask your jeweller to confirm they won’t be there in the finished ring.
  • what are your thoughts on the wedding band (second & third pics)? i wanted floating diamonds and decided on 3 prongs for more security but am questioning the style now…​

    It doesn’t look like it’ll appear floaty in this CAD. Does your jeweller have pictures of finished rings in this style with the three prongs so you can see if it actually does look floaty when finished?
 

bbxin

Rough_Rock
Joined
Apr 21, 2022
Messages
5
  • i originally wanted the engagement ring to be 2mm but because it’s a twisted band, the pave may not be as noticeable as each twist would be 1mm. my ring size is 2.5 so i’m scared 2.5mm might look thick. is it worth going down to 2.2mm or 2.3mm? would it make it a bit more “dainty” or am i overthinking it?​
  • thoughts on adding a cathedral and euro shank?

    How would the shank/twists sit with the tulip prongs if you did want a cathedral?
    Euro shank could help with spinning.
  • on the first pic, bottom left, it looks like the twisted pave isn’t symmetrical? it stops half way on the left whereas the right it goes more down. is this how the ring will actually look like or will pave be the same length on each side?​

    If you look at the picture next to the one you’re referencing, I think what you’re seeing is the pave twisting back across the shank.
    4B775558-EBD7-4C80-B2C4-A5947CAC0EC1.jpeg
    I drew lines to show what I think you’re talking about.
  • i’m seeing lines (not sure what they’re actually called) on the twisted pave where there aren’t any diamonds. is the actual ring going to have those or will it be smooth?​

    C1A17505-F130-4958-A1C0-3D27E44CF237.jpeg
    The lines here? I assume they’re some sort of measurement marks in the cad but ask your jeweller to confirm they won’t be there in the finished ring.
  • what are your thoughts on the wedding band (second & third pics)? i wanted floating diamonds and decided on 3 prongs for more security but am questioning the style now…​

    It doesn’t look like it’ll appear floaty in this CAD. Does your jeweller have pictures of finished rings in this style with the three prongs so you can see if it actually does look floaty when finished?

I'm honestly not sure how the twist will work with a cathedral + tulip prongs. I did provide an example of cathedral + tulip prongs to the jeweler but I couldn't find an example with twisted pave. I'm going to ask them to create a cad for it since I originally wanted cathedral.

Thank you for your lines! You're completely right about the twist. I think I kept staring at it too much and it didn't occur to me until you pointed it out.:lol-2:

They designed the rings based on a photo collage I created and gave to them. I believe all the floating diamond rings they've done are all 2 prong and not 3. But the cad does match the inspo I had on the photo collage. It may just seem like it because the prongs are sticking out and looks bulky but once it's polished it won't be.

Do you think 2.5mm is too thick for a 2.5 ring size? I still want a dainty look.
 

foxinsox

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 18, 2015
Messages
4,066
I had a look on diamdb.com and compared shank widths for the proportions of your oval. The smallest finger size was 3, not 2.5 so I set it to that. I guessed at your ring finger length.
There’s a noticeable difference but 2.5 doesn’t look chunky by any means.
A usual recommendation is to not go thinner than 2mm especially when you have pave since that is lots of little holes in your shank and can weaken it. Given that half your shank is not pave tho, it might be ok. 2.5 when half of it is pave and twisted would look quite delicate imo since each strand is 1.25mm
You could also go wider at the bottom (or euro as you were thinking) and that might help with spinning and possibly make it stronger too.
2.5mm
4BE70853-F6AF-4947-9D14-CB8E28F78249.jpeg
E85E1B2E-1AA1-45BA-BFA0-05B9988D62BE.jpeg
2mm
B54ACE1B-BDA2-427D-B77F-C31FF9B1D0DE.jpeg
CC8BAFCC-CD76-46BA-A7D1-4ACA5512FAF1.jpeg
 

caolsen

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
1,488
I would not go any narrower than 1.2 mm for each ‘twist’ - 1mm is tiny. Yes, you have narrow fingers but I’m assuming they are long and delicate. Bear in mind that shank thickness and how it looks on the hand is as much about how long your fingers are versus how wide.

That metal is holding a very expensive diamond that is a PITA to replace. Thinner shank means a weaker shank. With all the drilling to set thr pave, a thinner shank will be more prong to bending.
 
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