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Bespoke, hand worked, hand finished and cast ER London?

k3wt

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 2, 2015
Messages
26
Hi

So I need to get a diamond mounted in London, can anyone advise a good workshop and designer?

I'm looking for a simple elegant solitaire setting - nothing that looks too bulky/heavy. I quite like the look of the Cartier 1895 with the tapered band/shank? but don't like the circular shaped hole and base of the mount, where the prongs are set. So perhaps it's a mix of the simple DB Classic and the Cartier that I prefer.

I heard that most branded rings are hand finished and cast. Presumably all rings are cast? Therfore how are bespoke ones supposedly of better quality? Surely they are cast and hand finished also?!

When I held the DB Classic it seemed very light in comparison to the cartier. Both were platinum. Would it mean that the cartier is stronger or of better quality?

Thanks in advance
 

jaaron

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 1, 2016
Messages
877
Some settings are completely handmade. I looked around In London and didn't find too many amazing options. Daniel Prince in Hatton Garden has a very good reputation-- I don't know that I would use them for a very delicate halo, but I think they would be a good choice for a well-made bespoke solitaire.
 

canuk-gal

Super_Ideal_Rock
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toBnruG

Rough_Rock
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Sep 24, 2014
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k3wt said:
I heard that most branded rings are hand finished and cast. Presumably all rings are cast? Therfore how are bespoke ones supposedly of better quality? Surely they are cast and hand finished also?!

When I held the DB Classic it seemed very light in comparison to the cartier. Both were platinum. Would it mean that the cartier is stronger or of better quality?
You might be confusing better quality for more expensive here. As diamond lovers know, rarity affects price at least as much as quality (in diamonds, size equates to rarity because it's harder to find large, gem quality stones therefore price-per-carat increases as the size increases). Clearly with a bespoke ring you are getting either very limited edition or one-of-a-kind, therefore the price is higher. You are paying for a complete design flow, for a bespoke cast to be made, and for all the finishing and details to be done by hand.
For branded rings, the designer only has to do their job once and the cast can be re-used multiple times therefore the cost of production is greatly reduced.

That's not to say that branded rings are always the cheaper option, though. Clearly the brand itself also adds to the price of a ring.

Bespoke rings are often made by taking a strip of metal and bending / shaping it to get the finished product. This way, no cast is required, but this is only suitable for certain designs. A cheaper option still is to start with a pre-cast ring and just to shape it into a bespoke design.

I would be dubious about statements such as "hand finished", by the way. That might just mean that the final polish is done by hand - or that the stone is inserted by hand.
 

OoohShiny

Ideal_Rock
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Apr 25, 2014
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I used Durrants when I had the other half's ring made - I found them to be 'no nonsense', in that they weren't fawning and trying to flatter me as a customer into making a purchase, and as a family-run business they are free to speak their mind. I found their honesty refreshing and it was nice to not feel like they had a 'must make my commission' agenda like I have found elsewhere.

They do the bench work on-site and you can discuss options, including showing them stuff you like online (I had a spreadsheet :???: :lol: ) and asking if they can incorporate elements you like.

I intend to visit them again to get a matching wedding ring made up for her, and will also see what they can do for me - I have started another spreadsheet :D but sadly I don't think I will be anywhere near buying a massive Octavia for several years.. :( lol
 

OoohShiny

Ideal_Rock
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Thanks for posting the link up, I was going to reply to it and ask if it was Durrants because it rang bells with what they had told me too (I think I mentioned it in the thread(s) I started) but I couldn't find it again after I saw it while on the phone and not logged in the other day :lol: lol


They do have the following on their website (with my emphasis added in bold):

http://www.durrantslondon.com/pages/about-us-1

About Us

Welcome to Durrants London Jewellers. Based in the heart of London’s jewellery quarter, Hatton Garden, our jewellery collections are inspired by the cosmopolitan capital, and all of our diamonds are sourced for their beauty and perfection. So if you are looking for the most magnificent diamond jewellery, visit Durrants London Jewellers and let us inspire you.


The Family Run London Jewellers

We are the family run London jewellers who take pride in each and every piece we produce. Our designs are made to dazzle and many of our collections have already featured on the country’s best catwalks, such as London Fashion Week.

Buried in the beautiful heart of the city’s jewellery community, Hatton Garden, our family run company is here to bring you both contemporary and classic bespoke jewellery in 18 carat gold and platinum, adorned with the finest diamonds or other precious gemstones. We are an F.G.A qualified London jewellers so we source our own diamonds for optimum quality and superiority.

Stephen Durrant runs the onsite work shop with our team of skilled craftsmen. The workshop caters for many other jewellery houses within the trade being bespoke hand made jewellery to alterations and repairs.

Caroline Durrant, wife to Stephen runs the front of house dealing with private clients that have built up over the last 40 years. Caroline also sources only the best diamonds and gem stones as well as designing our luxury pieces.

Tom Durrant, son to Caroline and Stephen started at the company in 2007. Since then Tom has been through the Goldsmiths Apprenticeship and learnt from the best. Tom is involved right from the off with dealing directly with clients, sourcing the perfect stone, designing the piece, over looking the craftsmanship in the workshop, to the polishing and ultimately the end product.

The team in the onsite workshop are really what makes Durrants what it is, pieces are made on site including the mounting, setting and polishing. With the workshop being onsite it means alterations and sizings can (by appointment) be done whilst you wait. Not to mention you get to see the craftsmen and can ask any questions you like so you are happy and comfortable.

Oh and also not forgetting Freddie!



Our name is within every single piece we produce and therefore is produced with the upmost care and detail. Expect nothing less then perfection.

I guess we as customers will never really know the veracity of the claims - it wasn't mention of the claims that sold them to me as where I wanted to go, more their attitude.

FWIW I have been very happy with the workmanship of the other half's ring, the communication during having it made, the timescales quoted and stuck to, and their willingness to entertain my fussiness. They seemed to me to be 'no-nonsense', as mentioned, and I spoke with the guy on the bench a couple of times - he even showed me a 6ct pear ring he had just finished putting together :o :love: just because I was there and he had come out the front to do something.

Oh, and they have their family dogs in the showroom, which I thought was cool :D lol
 
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