Basket or no basket?

[maisie2]

I have a 1.17ct OEC I’m planning to have set in a scalloped halo ring (with 3mm halo stones). I’m a US 6.5 if that matters.

I have most of the details worked out, but I’ve been going back and forth on whether or not to go with a basket and donut. Is there a certain size of center stone where you should go with a basket/donut, and there’s no point having one for anything smaller? Does the halo make a difference in this? Or is it just a matter of preference? I also don’t want the ring to be super tall, so that is a factor as well.

I’m looking at something detailed, kind of similar to photo 1 (a CVB ID ring) or something more simple like photo 2 (a Brilliant Earth ring). I wouldn’t go with either of these exact designs, but wanted to show what I’m referring to because I’m sure my description isn’t the best.

 

[Avondale]

Basket and donut are different things. You mean donut specifically.

This offers a good explanation on both: https://www.victorcanera.com/education/jewelry/anatomy-of-a-ring

To quote the donut part in particular:
"The Donut is the bottom plate of metal at the base of the basket which sits directly on top of the finger. The donut serves a structural purpose as it allows the prongs to have a wider center of gravity which adds lateral stability to a head. This wider center of gravity would make it more difficult to damage the head from a hard lateral force hitting it. Some ring designs do not have a “donut” that protrudes, these pieces have a straight bar of metal called a “bridge” instead. A bridge that is straight underneath the basket is typically done to allow the flush fitting of a wedding band next to an engagement ring."

So, the top ring you have is with a donut, and the bottom one has a bridge.

I personally would go with a donut as I'm all for structural integrity. The halo in your design will add enough width to the ring head, and the donut provides stability for the entire head, not just based on the centre stone size. It shouldn't add to the ring height, or at least not in any meaningful way.

 

[0-0-0]

It’s also possible to have some under basket detail, like photo 1, connect to the bridge without a donut. That would give the ring a bit more structural integrity than photo 2, but still be weaker than photo 1.

For example

 

[tyty333]

I think it depends on what "effect" you want with the ring...do you want it to have a slightly more modern clean look, then
no donut/basket.

Do you want it to look like an antique-style setting...then do a donut/basket.

I think with a 1.17 stone with 3mm halo it can go either way (I dont think size is an issue). For me personally, I would probably
do a donut/basket (but go with what you envision for this ring).

 

[maisie2]

I think it depends on what "effect" you want with the ring...do you want it to have a slightly more modern clean look, then
no donut/basket.

Do you want it to look like an antique-style setting...then do a donut/basket.

I think with a 1.17 stone with 3mm halo it can go either way (I dont think size is an issue). For me personally, I would probably
do a donut/basket (but go with what you envision for this ring).

I am leaning towards this, but most of the rings I saw with it have larger center stones which made me hesitant. Thank you for your response, it was very helpful! I think I will go with your recommendation.

 

[maisie2]

Basket and donut are different things. You mean donut specifically.

This offers a good explanation on both: https://www.victorcanera.com/education/jewelry/anatomy-of-a-ring

To quote the donut part in particular:
"The Donut is the bottom plate of metal at the base of the basket which sits directly on top of the finger. The donut serves a structural purpose as it allows the prongs to have a wider center of gravity which adds lateral stability to a head. This wider center of gravity would make it more difficult to damage the head from a hard lateral force hitting it. Some ring designs do not have a “donut” that protrudes, these pieces have a straight bar of metal called a “bridge” instead. A bridge that is straight underneath the basket is typically done to allow the flush fitting of a wedding band next to an engagement ring."

So, the top ring you have is with a donut, and the bottom one has a bridge.

I personally would go with a donut as I'm all for structural integrity. The halo in your design will add enough width to the ring head, and the donut provides stability for the entire head, not just based on the centre stone size. It shouldn't add to the ring height, or at least not in any meaningful way.

Thank you for your reply! It appears that I’m referring to gallery detail/accents, not a basket. It just looks like a basket to me so I mislabeled it as such. I circled the part I’m talking about.

Does having extra metal like this to connect the donut to the bottom of the halo help at all with stability, or is it just a design choice? I noticed the BE ring doesn’t have any metal in that area, it’s completely open.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I don’t personally like the aesthetic of the floating saucer look rings can have with open galleries like you posted. I prefer the diamond to appear anchored to my hand.

I think you should just choose the design you like the look of on the hand.

 

[maisie2]

I don’t personally like the aesthetic of the floating saucer look rings can have with open galleries like you posted.

Thank you for the laugh I can absolutely see what you mean.

 

[Avondale]

Does having extra metal like this to connect the donut to the bottom of the halo help at all with stability, or is it just a design choice?

It most certainly does help with stability. If you don't have anything there - no gallery, no prongs, no nothing - then the donut really serves no purpose, as the goal is to provide more lateral stability by anchoring some metal to a wider base. This is why the BE ring only has a bridge considering the design doesn't incorporate any metal on the sides.

Now, if the question is, once you already have a gallery, does adding more metal to that gallery help with stability - I imagine it most certainly does, but do you need it, really. Eventually you reach a point of diminishing returns, and you're not trying to wear some humongous hunk of a rock on your finger, so no reason to worry about that.

I'm with @dreamer_dachsie here. Beautiful, intricate galleries make me swoon.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I mean, no offense to people who like an open gallery obviously! That is certainly a more modern, sleek look, and its obviously popular since so many rings have that style. Sholdt for example makes a lot of halo style settings with open galleries. So obviously they are popular! Just not my bag, personally. I really love a detailed gallery as that is a view I see a lot when wearing rings. I recently had a ring made with a gallery that is closed and just metal -- I regret that I didn't engrave it, but I couldn't afford it at the time.

 

[maisie2]

I mean, no offense to people who like an open gallery obviously! That is certainly a more modern, sleek look, and its obviously popular since so many rings have that style. Sholdt for example makes a lot of halo style settings with open galleries. So obviously they are popular! Just not my bag, personally. I really love a detailed gallery as that is a view I see a lot when wearing rings. I recently had a ring made with a gallery that is closed and just metal -- I regret that I didn't engrave it, but I couldn't afford it at the time.

I do think since I’m going with a scalloped halo with milgrain, the open gallery and more modern look of the BE ring would look kind of out of place and not match as well as a more detailed gallery would.

Thank you everyone that commented! This was very helpful and I learned some new terms that I’m sure will help as well.

 

[Ibrakeforpossums]

Maisie, I love your avatar ring! I do like floating saucers as well, I hope that doesn't devalue my compliment.

 

[maisie2]

Maisie, I love your avatar ring! I do like floating saucers as well, I hope that doesn't devalue my compliment.

Hehe, I quite like them as well This whole thread has made me want to make a floating saucer ring with an alien somehow incorporated - my friend is obsessed with aliens and it would be a fantastic gift for her.
Also, thank you! Obviously I’m a big fan of halos and lots of details

 

[Niel]

(Almost) Always basket. I find a lack of basket to look cheap. There are few exceptions (those old Ritani for example did that well and looked intentional) but an intricate halo with an empty space under looks unfinished

 

[maisie2]

(Almost) Always basket. I find a lack of basket to look cheap. There are few exceptions (those old Ritani for example did that well and looked intentional) but an intricate halo with an empty space under looks unfinished

I agree, I think it would look odd with an empty space. I’ve just only ever seen the intricate galleries on PS, and typically only on 2ct or larger, so I wasn’t sure if it would look odd with my 1ct stone.

However, this post has convinced me to go for it. I like the idea of the ring being beautiful and detailed from every angle, not just the top.

 

[Niel]

I agree, I think it would look odd with an empty space. I’ve just only ever seen the intricate galleries on PS, and typically only on 2ct or larger, so I wasn’t sure if it would look odd with my 1ct stone.

However, this post has convinced me to go for it. I like the idea of the ring being beautiful and detailed from every angle, not just the top.

You’re right that you would want to approach a smaller stone differently than a larger one but I think there are simplistic baskets that can be done so that it’s not too busy or jammed in without looking lacking. Are you into a more modern or vintage style ?

 

[lovedogs]

I love detailed baskets/galleries/whatever you call them

 

[maisie2]

You’re right that you would want to approach a smaller stone differently than a larger one but I think there are simplistic baskets that can be done so that it’s not too busy or jammed in without looking lacking. Are you into a more modern or vintage style ?

Definitely a vintage style!

 

[YadaYadaYada]

The diamond in this ring is just over a carat, so I wanted to share it as an example of a halo with a gallery and no donut:

Photo credit to David Klass

 

[maisie2]

The diamond in this ring is just over a carat, so I wanted to share it as an example of a halo with a gallery and no donut:

Photo credit to David Klass

Thank you, that is very helpful! I think I am going to go with a donut since others have said it’s worth the added stability.

However, it’s nice to see a halo with a stone the same size as mine that has a cathedral and gallery details. Gives me a better idea of what mine will look like.

 

[lovedogs]

I have to add my favorite ring that reminds me of a flying saucer. I honestly love it.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I love that too! Modern rings that lean into the architecture are really cool.