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Asscher: Help picking a stone

bpowellAU

Rough_Rock
Joined
Nov 4, 2015
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I am searching for a truely great stone to be set in http://www.tacori.com/2586rd6. The qualifications I've been searching on are:

around 1 ct
greater than H
VS2 or better
Sym/Pol EX/EX

I have a few chosen as of now but wanted some opinions on them. I chatted with a James Allen person and they told me they liked the most expensive one(of course). The cheaper stones obviously move up my timeline but I don't want to sacrifice quality just to propose sooner. I am trying to have a ring that could become a family heirloom so I have no issues waiting longer to have a better stone. As of now I have a budget set of 6k for the stone.

1.11 ct
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/1.11-carat-g-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-722562

1.02ct
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/1.02-carat-h-color-vs1-clarity-sku-535119

.96ct
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.96-carat-h-color-vs1-clarity-sku-722563

.90ct
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.90-carat-g-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-725521

I had a favorite of these picked out but I saw a picture of a more octagonal Asscher and immediately loved it. Should that be something I'm concerned with in this size or will it be a moot point when it is set?

Thanks!
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
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The Tacori ring's basket sits very high and the stone sits even higher in the basket. This is a ring that you have to be careful not to knock about due to the total height. The nicest cut of the group happens to also be the most expensive asscher. The rest just aren't well cut. In a smaller diamond size, the shoulders may not be as noticeable once set. How is the size of the windmills?
 

bpowellAU

Rough_Rock
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Nov 4, 2015
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I haven't seen any in person so I'm going off just the James Allen pictures. I think (think being the key word) they are all good. That was something that I tried to pay attention to.
 

chrono

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bpowellAU|1446648637|3945581 said:
I haven't seen any in person so I'm going off just the James Allen pictures. I think (think being the key word) they are all good. That was something that I tried to pay attention to.

Unfortunately, I disagree. The 0.96 ct H VS1 is a very poor performer with major leakage areas. The 1.02 ct H VS1 isn't a good performer either but it is still better than the 0.96 ct H VS1.
 

bpowellAU

Rough_Rock
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Nov 4, 2015
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Well I'm glad that you disagree because that tells me I need more education! What clues do you have that tell you that? Any way you might be able to show me an example of a good performing stone? I'm obviously looking for the best performing stone with the qualifications I've set but most of those are able to be changed. How can you estimate the total height of the ring? I don't want it to be too tall so I might be able to find something with a lower basket.
 

tyty333

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27,338
I'm going to post another one that may be worth looking at...
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/1.01-carat-g-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-308147

I'm only so-so on the first one. The thing that bothers me is that the outside facets are thinner while the inside facets are wider.
Its a personal thing. It may not bother you (which is good). It does look to have some nice contrast thought. An aset will tell
you how well it is returning light. You need to pick your favorite 3 stones and request asets then go from there.

The 1.02 looks ok...aset will tell how ok it is.
The .96 does not look good to me. Looks like it will not return light very well under the table.
The .90 faceting pattern looks ok to me except is looks overly dark face on. Too many facets "off" at the same time.
The 1.01 I posted, looks to have a good distribution of on/off facets. I wish the windmills were a little bigger though. Aset
will tell how well it is returning light.

If I were going to request asets on 3 of them it would be your first one (that JA liked), the one I posted, and the 1.02.
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
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This one Tyty posted looks to give the 1.11 ct G VVS1 a run for its money. I like that the performance looks more even across the table of the diamond.
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/1.01-carat-g-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-308147

The thing with step cuts or even any fancy cuts, you cannot shop by the numbers. You have to view the pictures and video to see how the steps turn on and turn off when it is rotating. This tells you whether it is too dark, whether there are dead areas, and whether there is "gap-py" or uneven performance.
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
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The 1.01 H VS2 has a stronger performance in the middle, compared to the 1.03 G VVS1
 

lambskin

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Don't step cuts show warm colors (G,H,I etc) more than other cuts? Also, make sure that your bride likes Assher cuts as they are more rare/unusual. I like them. Have you seen an Octavia from Good Old Gold? Tons of posts about this cut -it is pricey but I think is pretty cool. Good luck.
 

bpowellAU

Rough_Rock
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Definitely going with an Asscher, we are looking for rare/unusual. I've looked at pictures but she said that its too much flash for her. I showed her an Octavia and a regular side by side and she liked the regular better
 

kenny

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bpowellAU|1446694694|3945899 said:
Definitely going with an Asscher, we are looking for rare/unusual. I've looked at pictures but she said that its too much flash for her. I showed her an Octavia and a regular side by side and she liked the regular better

Frankly in a still photograph I prefer the proportions of a well-cut generic asscher.
But live, in person, moving around I greatly prefer my Octavia, even after spending years wearing an asscher with cut that was considered to be about as good as they get.

The reason is the optimized cut for light performance and the high crown and small table.
The light show seems to be just as good pretty far off axis.
IOW you don't have to flip your wrist up and look straight down into the top to get an astonishing light show.

I also own a round ACA and a round Solasfera.
Both are top cut for round diamonds.
Honestly, the Octavia rivals them in fireworks, which is unheard of in asschers.
 

Dancing Fire

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kenny|1446696009|3945904 said:
bpowellAU|1446694694|3945899 said:
Definitely going with an Asscher, we are looking for rare/unusual. I've looked at pictures but she said that its too much flash for her. I showed her an Octavia and a regular side by side and she liked the regular better


I also own a round ACA and a round Solasfera.
Both are top cut for round diamonds.
Honestly, the Octavia rivals them in fireworks, which is unheard of in asschers.
:shhh: ..don't tell the whole world... :lol:
 

bpowellAU

Rough_Rock
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chrono

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Please do view the Octavia video. The performance is amazing but it's so very different from the usual step cut. I've seen Kenny's amazing Octavia in person and need shades to protect my eyes. :bigsmile: It puts MRBs to shame. That said, it is too "busy" for me, so I still prefer the chunkier faceting and slower scintillation rate of well cut traditional asschers. Make the comparison to see which style she prefers.
 

bpowellAU

Rough_Rock
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Nov 4, 2015
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Chrono, the busyness is exactly what she didn't like, then again I only showed her a top down picture. She hasn't seen any in video so that might change things but I don't really want to do that and ruin the surprise! Personally I like the Octavia and I have watched a couple on video but I don't know that she's going to care one way or another, the diamond choice is really up to me, the guidance I have is it needs to be a square and not princess cut. So thats what lead me to asschers in general but between the 2 I think that she'll be happy with either. I think that a regular well cut asscher is more in my price range because for her(and her family) it can't happen soon enough so thats really what lead me to that side. Any suggestions short of showing her a video on how to get a feel for which she would prefer? :confused:
 

bpowellAU

Rough_Rock
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Nov 4, 2015
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I LOVE those but those are out of my price range, although I wonder about having one cut.....hmmm
 

diamondseeker2006

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Let me just say that your first posted stone, the 1.11 G is one of the best asschers I have seen. It has a high crown and is gorgeous! I have a 1 ct asscher in a halo ring and I'd like to just switch it out right now if I could, and mine is a good one but H color. No other stone posted is as good, in my opinion. Plus, it is 5.7mm which is small, but the others are just too small. Mine is 5.5mm and it is in a halo setting which helps a lot. I wouldn't go smaller than the 5.7mm stone unless you are considering a halo.

I totally agree that that Tacori setting is just too high. Many of theirs are high, but this one might be slightly better.

http://www.tacori.com/2638rdp65
 

bpowellAU

Rough_Rock
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Nov 4, 2015
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Well now I have some more decisons to make. I decided that I can tell absolutely nothing from a picture and needed some help so I reached out to GOG. I have narrowed it down to 2 stones

1.38
http://www.goodoldgold.com/ecommerce/1.3ct-i-vvs2-asscher-diamond.html

OR

1.04
http://www.goodoldgold.com/ecommerce/1.04ct-h-vs1-asscher-diamond.html

Video is Here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kR9UQkcJ5uE&feature=youtu.be

It seems to me that the 1.04 is better cut but the 1.38 has a clear size advantage. I need some advice on choosing either one. She is expecting 1ct but to surprise her with the 1.38 would be good but is it worth sacrificing the better cut stone? Please help!
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Tough choice! It is clear that the 1 ct is reflecting light better whilst the 1.3 ct doesn't show much activity smack dab in the middle. There is also no denying that a difference of 0.5 mm is visible.
 

bpowellAU

Rough_Rock
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Nov 4, 2015
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I know! I'm really struggling with this! The setting I'll be going with is the Tacori 2638 posted above. I love the way the 1.04 reflects but the 1.3 has bigger flashes, grrr....

Here are some had shots from them

image012_3.jpg

image013_3.jpg
 

tyty333

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Chrono|1447275509|3948347 said:
Tough choice! It is clear that the 1 ct is reflecting light better whilst the 1.3 ct doesn't show much activity smack dab in the middle. There is also no denying that a difference of 0.5 mm is visible.

Agree, the 1.3 is somewhat dead in the center but...its got the size going for it. You have to decide what's more important to you.
Most everyone else that sees the stones will notice the size. You/she will probably be the ones that notice the lack of light/sparkle
in the center. Tough choice (I'm glad I'm not you!!!) :cheeky:
 

Californiadreaming

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Sep 17, 2014
Messages
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I always feel kind of embarrassed posting on here with my opinions as I am a diamond dunce BUT I have just bought a 1 carat Asscher which I love and which doesn't necessarily have the specs or look others on here might seek.

Anyway, to my inexperienced eye, I prefer the bigger stone. I understand the 'dead' comment but to me it's prettier, it just speaks to me more.

Also as others have said, this is a site for diamond nuts (in the nicest way :lol: ) and in real life people only notice how big the diamond is, unless it's seriously ugly!
 

bpowellAU

Rough_Rock
Joined
Nov 4, 2015
Messages
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I think I'm going 1.3. At the end of the day it's her ring and I think she'll be happier with a bigger diamond. I don't know that she'll notice a huge difference because they won't be side by side. Also she'll have pave stones on both bands so there will be other light. I'm planning on pulling the trigger tomorrow. So if anyone has any other inputs or feels like that's the wrong decision. Let me know! Soon!
 
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