Asscher Cut Men's Ring Settings

[Dancing Fire]

You're welcome.

DF's Gelin Abaci does not have that kind of groove cut into it.
It's totally safe.
So it is possible to safely tension set an asscher in a setting with a solid side.

Perhaps ask Bruce to look into this and develop a new process.
I don't know, perhaps it's not possible with the metals Bruce uses.
Perhaps there's more flexibility working with gold and platinum, which Bruce does not offer.

Humm..I think it does... b/c based on your advise I requested GA to be sure it is grooved. AFAIK my settings is grooved on both side..

 

[kenny]

Humm..I think it does... b/c based on your advise I requested GA to be sure it is grooved. AFAIK my settings is grooved on both side..

We are having miscommunication over our usage of the term "groove".
More explanation, and maybe a new pic, may help.

Something has to be cut/machined into the sides of the tension setting's gap that holds the diamond.
For a round diamond it's easy.
They can just put a round cutter of the right diameter (that has a V-shape in a sideview) and cut into the gap the right depth without moving the cutter along the entire gap.
Such a 'groove' 'cutout' 'cave' 'notch' 'depression' 'slit' holds a round diamond in place; IOW it won't be able to slide along the gap.

I assume that is what your Gelin Abaci setting has.

Another technique, which Bruce uses and I don't like, is using the same cutter but moving it along the entire gap.
This makes what could be called a 'groove' 'channel' 'trench' that extends along the entire length of the gap.
With such a groove there is nothing in the setting's gap to prevent the diamond from sliding along the gap, if you push or knock the diamond hard enough.
Yes the diamond is under tremendous pressure so it's not easy to move, but my complaint is it CAN be moved.
Such a groove will be visible in the side view (the first pic below) since it reaches that side of the ring.

Here are two new pics, again showing the two kinds of 'groove' I'm trying to describe the difference between.
Asscher setting on the left, round setting on the right.






Now DF, here's your GA ring's side view and next my Boonering Ellipsoid in sideview.



In your ring we can see the 'groove' does NOT extend all the way to the end of the gap.
In my ring it does.

I assume GA machines either a channel that does not reach the ends or just a very deep cut like Boone cuts for rounds.
The bottom line is your setting is very safe.
Don't worry.

 

[gregchang35]

As always, Kenny- your posts are super informative!!!!

Love the photography and rings too!!!

 

[kenny]

BB - Boone rings/ Bruce Boone?

That's what I was reading it as

Yup, that's what I meant, sorry! I love his work (and the pictures Kenny has posted are amazing) so was trying to figure out whether maybe he told me 7mm was max because I was originally asking about rounds. But it seems like the rings Kenny has from him also have smaller than 7mm stones--just was curious. I all of Kenny's rings

... another relevant thought ...

Not all 7mm stones would need the same sized 'groove' cut into the sides of the tension setting's gap.

A round of 7mm will need the smallest.
An Asscher will need a medium, since the side ends where the windmill starts. IOW a 7mm asscher may have sides that are actually only 4 or 5 mm.
A Princess cut will need the largest (longest) 'groove' since it is a true square.

I'd therefor ask Bruce which cut/shape he's referring to when stating, "Over 7mm is hard to set".

 

[kenny]

As always, Kenny- your posts are super informative!!!!

Love the photography and rings too!!!

Thanks Greg.
I'm just a good BSer.

 

[Dancing Fire]

.

In your ring we can see the 'groove' does NOT extend all the way to the end of the gap.
In my ring it does.

I assume GA machines either a channel that does not reach the ends or just a very deep cut like Boone cuts for rounds.
The bottom line is your setting is very safe.
Don't worry.

Thanks Kenny. That's what I am assuming on how it was made.

 

[lovedogs]

BB - Boone rings/ Bruce Boone?

That's what I was reading it as

Yup, that's what I meant, sorry! I love his work (and the pictures Kenny has posted are amazing) so was trying to figure out whether maybe he told me 7mm was max because I was originally asking about rounds. But it seems like the rings Kenny has from him also have smaller than 7mm stones--just was curious. I all of Kenny's rings

... another relevant thought ...

Not all 7mm stones would need the same sized 'groove' cut into the sides of the tension setting's gap.

A round of 7mm will need the smallest.
An Asscher will need a medium, since the side ends where the windmill starts. IOW a 7mm asscher may have sides that are actually only 4 or 5 mm.
A Princess cut will need the largest (longest) 'groove' since it is a true square.

I'd therefor ask Bruce which cut/shape he's referring to when stating, "Over 7mm is hard to set".

ahh, that's a good point. I definitely didn't think of that when I originally asked about size. I should definitely clarify since you're totally right that a princess will have different length requirements vs. asscher. As usual I learn a lot from you whenever you post

This is definitely my next "to do" project

 

[GemGraphicEtsy]

Hi Kenny, thanks for all the info... I just realized that you responded to my original question. I'm up to speed on the side groove issue. I'm not sure I love the side grove design as much as your regular asscher setting, so I'll work on a solution to the continuous groove problem. Maybe Bruce can stop the grooves a hair short of the edge to fix the problem. TBD. I have a question about fluorescence. Having read a lot of your threads, I got the impression that you like a diamond with blue fluorescence. I had never even considered fluorescence before. After some googling, I got the impression that fluorescence is not considered a good trait of diamonds. I read that fl
Floresence can appear as cloudy or oily? I'm interested on your take on blue fluorescence? Good or bad? Thx.

 

[Dancing Fire]

Some people love fluorescence some don't. I'll take it either way...
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-us-your-fluorescent-ring-under-the-sun.212660/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-us-your-fluorescent-ring-under-the-sun.212660/[/URL]

 

[kenny]

Hi Kenny, thanks for all the info... I just realized that you responded to my original question. I'm up to speed on the side groove issue. I'm not sure I love the side grove design as much as your regular asscher setting, so I'll work on a solution to the continuous groove problem. Maybe Bruce can stop the grooves a hair short of the edge to fix the problem. TBD. I have a question about fluorescence. Having read a lot of your threads, I got the impression that you like a diamond with blue fluorescence. I had never even considered fluorescence before. After some googling, I got the impression that fluorescence is not considered a good trait of diamonds. I read that fl
Floresence can appear as cloudy or oily? I'm interested on your take on blue fluorescence? Good or bad? Thx.

Some diamonds with FL have the hazy/oily problem.
Most don't, yet the market and the poorly-informed unwashed masses unfairly stigmatize all FL diamonds so they sell at a bit of a discount.

I've read that the US marketplace unfairly penalizes FL and it's less of a concern in Europe.

This may be the reason:
100 years ago an American retailer mislead customers into thinking they were getting blue diamonds, when it was only blue FL.
The government put an end to that, but that scandal tainted the image of FL so it has gotten an unfair bad rap ever since.
Blue FL may help a diamond with more yellowish body color look less yellow, but only under a light source with lots of UV, such as sunlight.
Usual electric lighting has little or no UV so blue FL won't help the body color there.

It's not that I prefer diamonds with FL.
I would not seek out one with FL, I just don't mind it as long as it doesn't have that rare FL-related oily/hazy issue.
It is nice that it may lower the cost a bit.

ETA: As DF said it's personal preference.
Do more research and make up your own mind.

About the setting, if I was to get a new one made I'd try to get Bruce to change some of the curves in Sidegrooves.
Purely aesthetic.