Art deco chubby emerald

[molecule]

Thanks to the specialty LGD cut thread and @0-0-0 posting a beautiful, not too large chubby emerald, I caved and bought myself my first LGD. I had originally planned to wait/save for a LGD AC, but I when I saw the shape, cut and price of the emerald and I ended up caving.

Here she is next to my moissy antique asscher band, as inspired by @acaw2015 (who is my jewelry style idol).

I looked through all my art-deco/vintage emerald and asscher designs that I've collected for far too long to come up with my favorites.
The infamous (anyone else remember the 20 page thread trying to recreate this?) Tiffany asscher. I love the basket and the curved NSEW prongs. The leaves, I would omit or switch to something else.

I love the below setting. It hits proportion, size, geometric style, very art deco-y, but this might be a touch too plain for me. It might need a nice basket or something along the shank (honestly, my concerns about it being too plain might just be the angle of the ring in this shot)

I'd love to basically combine the two rings, but Im struggling to figure out to what extent. Are the styles just two different? I think the NSEW prongs would mess with the clean lines of the geometric design. Any recommendations, guidance or thoughts?

Other inspirational images:
Having just the horizontal baguette diamond would help me get the NSEW prongs, I think a fancy basket would be fine and the baguette would be inlaid into the shank.

Alternatively, I could abandon the merge all my favorite ideas into one mishmash ring and add a geometric pattern to the geometric ring:

Or substitute the leaves from the Tiffany ring for something like these shoulders
Feel free to post opinions, I'm thinking through this and would love to hear your thoughts.

 

[0-0-0]

Depending on the cut of the emerald, NSEW prongs can reflect across the facets. I would test with a gem holder before considering that option.

 

[molecule]

Depending on the cut of the emerald, NSEW prongs can reflect across the facets. I would test with a gem holder before considering that option.

That's a huge point of consideration I had omitted. Thank you!

 

[molecule]

Update with images taken on blue foam piece:

I would that in my rudimentary assessment of leakage indicates that the light performance is quite good (not perfect) and I don't believe it would be enough that NSEW prongs leaking through a little would bother me.

 

[lovedogs]

I'm no help other than to say I love the stone!

 

[Inked]

I'm no help other than to say I love the stone!

AGREE!!! I LOVE it! Exactly what i wanted for my ruby ring project, it's GORGEOUS!!

 

[acaw2015]

@molecule what a gorgeous stone and I absolutely love your asscher band! If I were to do my own again I would have it done like yours.
And you totally made my day! Thank you!

I am of very little help here, other than to say that all of these options look lovely! I think the first ring you posted has a quite dainty and romantic feel, while the more geometric pieces are more art deco. I would probably prefer art deco for an asscher, but it is really a close call and it all depends on what look you are after. I also like your idea with only a decorated band... I do however think that if you are not sure, I would put her in a simple solitaire setting and wear her for a while to see what setting she needs. I can't help imagining her with two (green, not diamonds) emeralds as a three stone ring...

 

[Dreamer_D]

I love those classic art deco styles. I would go simple and classic with this one and not try to mix designs too much. The strong architecture of these designs rests partly in clean strong lines.

 

[molecule]

@molecule what a gorgeous stone and I absolutely love your asscher band! If I were to do my own again I would have it done like yours.
And you totally made my day! Thank you!

I am of very little help here, other than to say that all of these options look lovely! I think the first ring you posted has a quite dainty and romantic feel, while the more geometric pieces are more art deco. I would probably prefer art deco for an asscher, but it is really a close call and it all depends on what look you are after. I also like your idea with only a decorated band... I do however think that if you are not sure, I would put her in a simple solitaire setting and wear her for a while to see what setting she needs. I can't help imagining her with two (green, not diamonds) emeralds as a three stone ring...

I have my own (very minor regrets) and should go back and update my thread so that if anyone ends up using it as inspiration that they be aware. I'd do a better transition from the shank to the sides of the diamonds in the end as currently the setting is a bit pokey.

The issue with a cheap solitaire is that I'm more likely to let it sit there for longer and only be partially satisfied.

 

[Ibrakeforpossums]

molecule, what a sweet diamond! I love it, and it's going to be so fun seeing what you do with it.
That Asscher moissy band is calling to me, can you share where it came from?

 

[molecule]

I love those classic art deco styles. I would go simple and classic with this one and not try to mix designs too much. The strong architecture of these designs rests partly in clean strong lines.

Good point, that's what I was starting to lean towards. I think I need to 1) find other angles of the ring to make sure it's not just the photography appealing to me 2) decide between horizontal baguettes with NSEW prongs or vertical+horizontal+corner prongs.

 

[molecule]

molecule, what a sweet diamond! I love it, and it's going to be so fun seeing what you do with it.
That Asscher moissy band is calling to me, can you share where it came from?

The moissys were sourced form JuliaB on Etsy and DK made the band in July 2018 - I love the height, wearability, the triangle prongs and would only modify the shank- stone edge connection. It's my most complimented piece.

 

[0-0-0]

Even without leakage, step cuts can draw light from low enough angles that can make NSEW prongs reflect across the steps. Here’s a couple videos of my Asscher pair in a gem holder testing corner vs NSEW prongs. I ruled out setting my pair in NSEW prongs after testing this out.

https://imgur.com/a/wmggMPp

 

[molecule]

Even without leakage, step cuts can draw light from low enough angles that can make NSEW prongs reflect across the steps. Here’s a couple videos of my Asscher pair in a gem holder testing corner vs NSEW prongs. I ruled out setting my pair in NSEW prongs after testing this out.

https://imgur.com/a/wmggMPp

This is why I love this community! Thank you for the recommendation and the info. BRB to go find my gem holders that I tucked away somewhere before multiple moves.

 

[oncrutchesrightnow]

Here’s mine. Sides are trillions. Band is a wheat engraving. Basket is a little fancy. Not a fan of brilliant trillions. I will reset one day.

 

[Ibrakeforpossums]

Here’s mine. Sides are trillions. Band is a wheat engraving. Basket is a little fancy. Not a fan of brilliant trillions. I will reset one day.

Your Asscher is freakin' killer. Send me a photo every day, would you please?

 

[molecule]

Here’s mine. Sides are trillions. Band is a wheat engraving. Basket is a little fancy. Not a fan of brilliant trillions. I will reset one day.

What are your plans for the eventual reset?

 

[oncrutchesrightnow]

What are your plans for the eventual reset?

A bezel, then I’m not sure for the sides… baguettes, bullets, traps. Probably not a halo. I will definitely ask PS for help. Got a few things to finish this year, maybe reset the asscher next year.

 

[molecule]

A bezel, then I’m not sure for the sides… baguettes, bullets, traps. Probably not a halo. I will definitely ask PS for help. Got a few things to finish this year, maybe reset the asscher next year.

I love the styles you're thinking of. The proposed piece would be your largest then, right? If I remember correctly, you tend to go for smaller rings.

 

[molecule]

A couple updates.
Given advice from @0-0-0 I did use a ring holder to assess how NSEW prongs would reflect. To my pleasure, I didn't notice any significant issues.

A couple newish thoughts after looking up inspiration for what seems like hours.
More geometric basket inspiration

I do love how this ring highlights the shape of the stone - this bezel might be an option if I go forward with a 3 or 5 stone.

And wild card- a plain solitaire from the top with some fancy engraving from the side, which would look great with NSEW prongs. Less swirling and more geometric engraving probably - NOT wheat engraving.

It's been hugely helpful to write this all out, post pictures and get your feedback and thoughts.

 

[molecule]

My current thoughts after spending a lot of time looking at pictures is that it's going to be very hard to get the proportions to my liking.

The 3/4 view is beautiful, but I don't like it nearly as much from the front

It would look really awesome with some edgy smaller rutilated quartz for the side stones.


Or french/carre cuts (diamond or otherwise) next to the Greenlake bezel.

I have some photoshopping to do....

 

[Inked]

ooooohhhh... i loooove that felicity setting!!

 

[molecule]

ooooohhhh... i loooove that felicity setting!!

To my eye and preferences, the proportions are a wee bit off, to me, the outside edge of the vertical baguette should fall along the windmill line. Quick mockup:

 

[Ibrakeforpossums]

Carre or Frenchies, not too big.

 

[Inked]

Personally, I agree, it's a different look with the larger sides, and I also prefer smaller.

Not sure if you're still looking at ideas, but I have always loved this simple art deco setting, reminds me of a honeycomb

And honestly, i know it's very unpricescope of me, but this diamond is too big

Again, not sure if you're totally set on the setting yet, but this kind of had both elements (baguette plus the 'triangular' shape) you were looking for!

 

[molecule]

Personally, I agree, it's a different look with the larger sides, and I also prefer smaller.

Not sure if you're still looking at ideas, but I have always loved this simple art deco setting, reminds me of a honeycomb

And honestly, i know it's very unpricescope of me, but this diamond is too big

Again, not sure if you're totally set on the setting yet, but this kind of had both elements (baguette plus the 'triangular' shape) you were looking for!

I actually spotted a variation of the honeycomb ring when I was browsing for inspiration online! The dimensions of this seem much more proportional. What I enjoy about the look is the contrast between the vertical center and horizontal side stones.


Adding more baguette inspiration in the hopes that I could make my original idea fit - this one with the chubby emerald seems like a good model, and yet, it's not quite what I am looking for.... I think this is ultimately encouraging me against the baguettes because I'm just too finicky about the proportions.

I need to set aside the Photoshop time.

I welcome more ideas!

 

[Scon_ce]

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[Dreamer_D]

I like the longer baguettes. The slight “offness” creates visual tension that makes me want to look at it.

 

[Inked]

I actually spotted a variation of the honeycomb ring when I was browsing for inspiration online! The dimensions of this seem much more proportional. What I enjoy about the look is the contrast between the vertical center and horizontal side stones.


Adding more baguette inspiration in the hopes that I could make my original idea fit - this one with the chubby emerald seems like a good model, and yet, it's not quite what I am looking for.... I think this is ultimately encouraging me against the baguettes because I'm just too finicky about the proportions.

I need to set aside the Photoshop time.

I welcome more ideas!

Omg I love this!!! Wish I saw it before I approved the casting for my 5.66!!! You’re right the proportions make this look sooomuch better! Love it!!