Apologies for being the common engagement ring seeker, I could use some guidance.

[whitewave]

Hi Everyone, thank you for all the help! I'll get back to everyones post, I've been with my SO this weekend and im trying to be discrete. I dont want her to see this in my web history.

I wanted to clarify, the savings account I have was strictly to save for the engagement ring. We're very honest to one another and once have purchase a ring, there is no longer a need for me to keep this secret savings account of mine anymore.

I get it, don't even worry about the savings account.

 

[doberman]

I'm going to be a wet blanket and say that when it comes to luxury goods, it's better to buy what you can afford right now without financing. You can always upgrade if economic circumstances change.

And your yearly income is absolutely none of our business. You don't need to justify why you only want to spend X amount.

 

[msop04]

Well, I'll be the enabler to @doberman's wet blanket and say that if you know you can pay it off within the introductory rate time period, I see nothing wrong with that. That is exactly what we did with my original engagement ring AND with my upgrade. How you choose to spend your money is none of our business... but we CAN help you find a rock!

 

[Gadabout44]

Diamonds are graded by what can be seen under a 10x magnification. It’s basically a count up of “how many, whereabouts and how big”. And there are some types of flaws that are easily seen like a carbon spec (black spot). Others are much harder to see with the unaided eye. When people talk “eye clean” they refer to looking at the stone at a normal viewing distance and not noticing anything with their unaided eyes. So a diamond with a single carbon speck might grade “higher clarity” than one with a number of feathers and crystal clouds “lower clarity grade” yet looking at both with your eyes you might easily see that solitary carbon speck and not see at all the dozen feathers and crystal clouds! And flaws that are on the edge (girdle) are far less noticeable than 1 right in the centre!
That’s why people say even an SI clarity grade can be eye clean, so you don’t necessarily have to go for better clarity grades (and more money) for it to look clean and clear.
The same with colour grades. Some people can see a “hint” of yellow in colour grades H and I, yet others look at an L colour and still think it “white”.
For me, anyway, at the end of the day only two things matter.
Size and cut.
Clarity, SI is fine as long as black spots aren’t “jumping out” at me.
Colour, J and K look perfectly white enough to me (and 95% of others).
Size because that’s obviously noticeable by everyone and cut because without excellent cutting a diamond just won’t sparkle as best it can.

Hi Bron, thank you for being detailed with the term "eye clean". Definitely helpful knowledge that I can use with the search. I am not certain if online websites would list their diamonds as Eye Clean. I visited JamesAllen a few times and BlueNile, I do not think I've seen them list their diamonds as eye clean. I may have to check again. Someone earlier had posted that I will know the diamonds are eye clean if purchased from WF and BGD.

SIZE and Cut, got it!

Hi @Gadabout44 - and welcome!

I think all your reasoning is very valid. I think it's kind of you to want to make sure your girl's ring isn't the smallest of the bunch - so that's a nice touch in my book! Also, her finger is small, so keeping the band delicate (as opposed to flimsy) makes perfect sense to me.

You're on the money re clarity - SI1 - VS1 is my range, tho I prefer VS2 for economy's sake.

I think for color G-H is your wheelhouse - nice and white - not so blindingly white that ALL you're paying for is color.

Where you're wrong, tho, is to say it has to be good or better. You need your stone to be a better cut than 'good' (and you WILL see the difference between 'good' and 'ideal' if the cut is good enough), and this is where you need some help.

So having said all of that, I looked up Blue Nile. They have a huge inventory. There's a couple of things they *don't* offer - like Idealscopes and ASET images, but the do offer video and full GIA reports, so I think they're an excellent place to start - and often to finish, too! Most of my diamonds come from Blue Nile (BN), and they're lovely. It's all in what you pick.....

I found ONE diamond, in all their inventory, that matched your parameters, while still giving great cut statistics. It's an H SI1, but seems like a very nice SI1 (always check with BN re whether any of their stones you're interested in is eye clean - they WILL tell you the truth) with no obvious tint.

Go here:

www.bluenile.com

In the top right corner, you'll see a search box. Enter this number:

LD09550881

You will then see the ONLY stone under $8200, H or better, SI1 or better, with the cut parameters I entered. I prefer a able 55-57 (58 is way too flat in my book) and this stone has a 56% table, which I think is very visually pleasing.

It's also cut within the depth range I prefer, so you get optimal spread, without being a shallow stone.

With wire discount, the price is $8029.

Re setting - I would never get a setting from BN. Their rings are pre-made, they all use what's called a peg-head, meaning all the heads are made separately then just screwed into the setting - ie the setting isn't made proportionally to the band - and the prong work is lumpy and ill-formed. You have a budget of 2k. Call David Klass Jewelry in LA; I'm sure they'll be able to make you a ring for your budget. It will be completely custom made to fit your stone, and will have much neater, smaller, more shapely prongs - and this will make a BIG difference to the look of the band, and to how much of the diamond is obscured by metal.

Details for the band - get platinum, not white gold. White gold is most generally rhodium plated to make it look whiter (unplated white gold isn't particularly white and shows a yellowish color), and this rhodium plating wears off over time, so you'd need to get your ring re-plated every 12 months or so to keep it looking its best, depending on how much she wears it. Platinum is also heavier and feels nicer on the hand, as well as wearing better. I agree with you re a slim band - tho 2.2mm is a standard width and will give a tiny bit more room for side diamonds (the small diamonds on the band are called melee).

If you bought from BN, you can either ship the stone to you, then to David Klass Jewelry (DKJ), or straight to DKJ. You'd have tracking etc, and DKJ will let you know when they have your stone in hand.

Drawbacks to BN: they don't offer Idealscopes or ASETs, which some people here consider essential. The truth is, in the world at large, most people have never heard of an Idealscope or an ASET - and this includes jewelers - and I buy my stones, in general, from the stats alone. All extra paperwork will cost you money, and you're right on the edge, budget-wise, of being able to achieve your goals with your stated budget as it is. If you're looking for ways to maximize your budget, these things will probably need to go by the wayside. This, for me, is no big deal; they ARE optional, your budget isn't.

Next drawback: do you intend ever to upgrade? BN's upgrade policy isn't that great, in that they require you to double what you initially spent if you ever intend to upgrade. This policy isn't unusual (and is better than a lot of places, which have NO upgrade policy). But it's not as good as some places, which offer the option of upgrading your stone by spending ANY amount higher than the price of your original stone. 100% of its value will go to your new stone, and you can buy a new stone which is more highly priced than your original stone by ANY amount. So if you pay 8k for your stone, and you upgrade with BN, you will need to spend 16k on your new stone. With a company like White Flash, however, if you buy one of their in-house stones, you can spend 8k...and trade up for any stone over 8k.

Re DKJ: the folks at DKJ are lovely people, very honest, and do great work. Every second person on these boards has worked with them and they are highly recommended. If you go to the Show Me The Bling forum, you will see a major thread dedicated to their work on the first page of threads. Take a look; the workmanship is much higher than places like James Allen or BN, who use stock settings, and their prices are very competitive, often better than the big retailers, for the same style ring, but custom made. It really DOES make a visual difference if your setting is made specifically for your diamond, rather than having a generic peg-head shoved into a pre-made band.

I hope this all helped. It would give you a lovely stone in a beautiful setting, of which your girl could be very proud.

Good luck!

PS Some people here are good at finding specific stones which are listed on multiple sites for different prices. Places like Blue Nile hold virtual inventories, so stones on their site might pop up also with different vendors who list them at different prices. Blue Nile is competitive, but it pays to check. If you ask people here to look up the stone I listed above, and see if it's listed anywhere else for a lower price, they might be able to help you out. Also, BN often has discounts on their diamonds for Valentine's Day. It's the only time of the year that they do it, and the discounts normally start in February.

Hi Mrs. B,

Thank you for spending time to help a stranger out.

I wanted to ask you if you can you elaborate on "keeping the band delicate opposed to flimsy"?

Reading the numerous post in here. I've come to realize that Cut is probably the most important measurement. I've been running a few customizations on JA and BN and have been filtering diamonds to show only Very good cuts and Ideal cuts. Do you feel "Very good" cuts are worth the consideration?

I wanted to to also ask what depth range would be most ideal in your opinion? The same question for the ring width. I believe someone said that I shouldnt not go any lower than 2.4mmThis seems to be useful information that I could use in my searches.

As far as upgrading. I am ashamed to ask, are wedding rings typically upgraded engagement rings, or add ons? If upgrading is the way to go for a wedding ring, then yes I do plan to upgrade. If wedding rings should be add-on's then no I do not plan to upgrade. I see where you are going though. Basically, if I plan to upgrade I should consider other places other than BN so that I am not required to spend double the price of the initial purchase. I believe Shane Co. has a no hassle upgrade policy. But those retailers are the ones to avoid if I'm not mistaken.

From what I've read so far, I should consider a purchase of a Diamond from a credible online store like JA and BN, WF or BGD. And then have a setting made through David Klass.

Here is a customization I've created at BN. Thoughts? More specficially on the Diamond I chose. I honestly feel that the diamond you pointed out (LD09550881) seems to be just as good, if not better!
https://www.bluenile.com/build-your...09864514&offerId=12956&click_id=716041188

PS. Excuse the grammar. Running out of time here.
I will get back to replying to the other post! Sorry, ran out of time here at work.

 

[ringo865]

Upgrades happen after the wedding, hopefully after several years, when the couple has more financial stability and the wife wants a bigger/cleaner/whiter diamond. Doesn't always happen, but a large percentage of posters on these forums has upgraded at least once. Some might be "serial upgrades". Some vendors have really good upgrade policies (to trade your diamond in for full price toward another). Some are not as good. Some people who want a new diamond keep their original diamond for a necklace or one of a pair of earrings. Some trade it in.

James Allen and blue nile will not state in thei detail grid whether a particular diamond is eye clean. You have to post it here for guidance, and if vetted, ask a gemologist (not sales associate) to review for eye cleanliness. Whiteflash, in the details grid does say if each particular diamond is eye clean or "inquire".

Yes yes yes. stay out of maul stores!!

 

[JmeeMrie]

@mrs-b if you have some secret way of getting DK to answer emails, I'd love a hint. Thanks.

Haha serioously...

 

[Gadabout44]

Rockysalamander, I seen your post. There is a lot to look at but I want to let you know that your post did not go unnoticed. I've book mark each link you've provided and have taken notes. I will get back to you, for now I am gathering as much information as I can get and come up with a more specific vision of what I am looking for.

I do have a question, I personally think a 4 prong crown looks better. I know a 6 prong setting would keep a diamond in place and much more sturdy. How much truth is into this and would you say a 4 prong setting is OK for a 1.4 carat size diamond?

Thank you.

I’ve posted these pictures before... but since you’re looking at a similar design ...

This is a 2.5mm width Pt950 setting with a gentle taper and 0.20tcw of melee in a channel set. Just so you know the ballpark for a custom job, it was 2490US from WF.

Cut is important. A well cut diamond will sparkle and appear much brighter and it’s the “C” that’s often neglected the most in chain stores. Short of “excellent” on a certificate, for various reasons some brick and mortar stores don’t discuss the topic. They have to sell the “very good” stock somehow.

Eye clean is an arbitrary definition. It is not an industry standard, but generally means you cannot see the inclusion with the naked eye, face up at a certain distance eg. 10 inches. I can spot the inclusion in our diamond closer as I know where to look! Almost but not all VS2 diamonds are eye clean. Some SI1 are. It is important to ask the vendor and also depends how much you care. Only the purchaser and the intended is likely to look that closely!

Others have suggested some diamonds. Wishing you all the very best! I suggest you contact some of the vendors above and ask them to place the ones you like on hold. You’re not likely to get that much cheaper than what’s already been suggested to you without compromising the 4C’s

Thank you for sharing the picture, that actually captures what I have in mind. Its beautiful! I cannot seem to find a search result on 2490US on Whiteflash.com

Someone also had mentioned 2.5mm should be the band width. I have been looking around and these band seems a bit too thick especially on a size 4 finger. Which leads me to my question, why is 2.5mm the suggested width? And is it OK to go as far as 2.0 MM for a slimmer finger?

Come back and tell us what you are thinking and if you sleuthed out her preferences.

I will, it may not be immediately, I like to take my time with this. But I will definitely be here asking questions and guidance especially with the final update.

Upgrades happen after the wedding, hopefully after several years, when the couple has more financial stability and the wife wants a bigger/cleaner/whiter diamond. Doesn't always happen, but a large percentage of posters on these forums has upgraded at least once. Some might be "serial upgrades". Some vendors have really good upgrade policies (to trade your diamond in for full price toward another). Some are not as good. Some people who want a new diamond keep their original diamond for a necklace or one of a pair of earrings. Some trade it in.

James Allen and blue nile will not state in thei detail grid whether a particular diamond is eye clean. You have to post it here for guidance, and if vetted, ask a gemologist (not sales associate) to review for eye cleanliness. Whiteflash, in the details grid does say if each particular diamond is eye clean or "inquire".

Yes yes yes. stay out of maul stores!!

Thank you for answering my questions Ringo.

Mrs. B suggested I check with DKJ to have a setting customized for the diamond. I pretty much have a good idea of what my SO likes, through sources. However, what if in the event she is not totally happy, do you happen to know if DKJ will provide an exchange? Or a "re-do"? Now that I type this up, I think this is a question to ask DKJ.

PS. Dont bother searching if you do not know, I can call them and ask for myself.

 

[Gadabout44]

I have a question re: the HCA rating. Mrs. B had suggested I look into the Diamond she has found on BN, the rating says that the diamond is better suited for a Pendant / necklace. What characteristic determines this? Also, how much should I take this into consideration when purchasing a diamond for a ring?

TY

 

[Bron357]

Hi Everyone, thank you for all the help! I'll get back to everyones post, I've been with my SO this weekend and im trying to be discrete. I dont want her to see this in my web history.

I wanted to clarify, the savings account I have was strictly to save for the engagement ring. We're very honest to one another and once have purchase a ring, there is no longer a need for me to keep this secret savings account of mine anymore.

There’s nothing wrong with “separate money”. Hubby and I are “joint everything” and discuss major purchases but we do both have an “individual allowance” (for want of a better word) each month with which we can do what we like. I’ll even take my lunch from home, not buy coffees etc so I can spend mine on jewellery.

 

[tanalasta]

Thank you for sharing the picture, that actually captures what I have in mind. Its beautiful! I cannot seem to find a search result on 2490US on Whiteflash.com

Someone also had mentioned 2.5mm should be the band width. I have been looking around and these band seems a bit too thick especially on a size 4 finger. Which leads me to my question, why is 2.5mm the suggested width? And is it OK to go as far as 2.0 MM for a slimmer finger?

You won't find the ring/setting on Whiteflash. I probably should have mentioned the setting was a Custom Order.

2.5mm is already quite dainty and won't be too small for a size 4 finger. if you wish to go with pave, then it is also very difficult to polish and set diamonds that fine without compromising the integrity of the setting. Thin metalwork bends/breaks!

Whether 2.0mm would be suitable is a decision you need to make following a discussion with an experienced bench jeweller.

 

[msop04]

Mrs. B suggested I check with DKJ to have a setting customized for the diamond. I pretty much have a good idea of what my SO likes, through sources. However, whata "re- if in the event she is not totally happy, do you happen to know if DKJ will provide an exchange? Or do"? Now that I type this up, I think this is a question to ask DKJ.

PS. Dont bother searching if you do not know, I can call them and ask for myself.

I have had several pieces made by David Klass, and he will absolutely do whatever he can to make you happy. I had a wedding band made less than a year ago and it was just the slightest bit thicker than I imagined (we're talking like TWO TENTHS OF A MILLIMETER HERE... I'm picky). He could've easily shaved off a very very small bit and buffed it to make it my desired width, but he offered to remake the entire ring for me. His customer service is excellent. I would go with him any day over BN or JA. His workmanship is so much better than either of those.

 

[Gadabout44]

I have had several pieces made by David Klass, and he will absolutely do whatever he can to make you happy. I had a wedding band made less than a year ago and it was just the slightest bit thicker than I imagined (we're talking like TWO TENTHS OF A MILLIMETER HERE... I'm picky). He could've easily shaved off a very very small bit and buffed it to make it my desired width, but he offered to remake the entire ring for me. His customer service is excellent. I would go with him any day over BN or JA. His workmanship is so much better than either of those.

Thank you, I'm convinced!

 

[farrahlyn]

2mm is generally the thinnest recommended on here for a pave setting. any thinner really compromises durability. For her ring size, i'd stick to 2.0mm-2.5mm. I have short fingers, size 5.5 and my e-ring is 3mm wide, knife edge micropave. I think on a size 4 finger that is too wide, especially with a wedding band. (i have a friend that is a 4 or 4.5 and my e-ring definitely overwhelms her.)

you have some things to consider. while i think custom is a wonderful idea (and DK does BEAUTIFUL work) you need to decide priority. Is your priority stone size or is it the setting? with your budget, you will have to compromize in one of those areas and honestly, there are some very nice settings along the lines of what you're looking for at a great price. Two of my favorites:

I really like the bead set pave:
https://www.jamesallen.com/engageme...rie-engagement-ring-by-jeff-cooper-item-54248

This WF pave setting is beautiful and the taper at the stone is especially flattering to the stone and on the hand:
https://www.whiteflash.com/engageme...eek-line-pave-diamond-engagement-ring-422.htm

 

[msop04]

FWIW, I feel like 2.4-2.5 mm should be fine. Anything 2.8+ mm starts getting a little thick for my taste -- ESPECIALLY when you add a wedding band to that.

 

[ichibanichiban]

I am not certain if online websites would list their diamonds as Eye Clean. I visited JamesAllen a few times and BlueNile, I do not think I've seen them list their diamonds as eye clean. I may have to check again. Someone earlier had posted that I will know the diamonds are eye clean if purchased from WF and BGD.

Tip: On James Allen, if you cut and paste the SKU into the search field the title of the diamond will say "EYE CLEAN" or not. But their definition of EYE CLEAN might just be VS1+.

Whiteflash will list it directly in the details section, and you can ask them also.

 

[rockysalamander]

I have a question re: the HCA rating. Mrs. B had suggested I look into the Diamond she has found on BN, the rating says that the diamond is better suited for a Pendant / necklace. What characteristic determines this? Also, how much should I take this into consideration when purchasing a diamond for a ring?

TY

BN LD09550881. The CA of 35 is well paired with 40.6 pavilion angle. I'm not too worried about the HCA, I tend to look more at the AGSL proportion chart. But, it would not be eye-clean enough for me. The solid crystals are too numerous and dense for me. Also, BN will not provide an ASET or IS for rounds. Without an ASET or IS, these angles are not 'safe' enough for me.

Diamonds will be moving FAST with Valentine's approaching. Have you made any decision about the stones I posted back on page 1? Over half are showing not available, so I hope that means you have some on hold and have requested IS images...

 

[Gadabout44]

Diamonds will be moving FAST with Valentine's approaching. Have you made any decision about the stones I posted back on page 1? Over half are showing not available, so I hope that means you have some on hold and have requested IS images...

Funny how you brought this up. I am really eager to pull the trigger on a purchase. But I understand I cannot rush into these things. Or should I?

I just posted a thread. I understand Nov through Feb is the peak season for Diamond shopping, I was questioning if there really is a significant price different in prices if I were to buy a ring during the peak season opposed to making a purchase after Feb. I can wait until March if there really is a price difference. But I leave PS to chime in on this

 

[rockysalamander]

Funny how you brought this up. I am really eager to pull the trigger on a purchase. But I understand I cannot rush into these things. Or should I?

I just posted a thread. I understand Nov through Feb is the peak season for Diamond shopping, I was questioning if there really is a significant price different in prices if I were to buy a ring during the peak season opposed to making a purchase after Feb. I can wait until March if there really is a price difference. But I leave PS to chime in on this

responded on your other thread