Antique ring help: loose stones, thin metalwork

[AMRose]

MAJOR turn of events. The seller would not extend the return period so I could drive the ring somewhere this weekend. But, after a wild goose chase to find someone knowledgeable I could get the ring to today, I got it to an antique jewelry dealer and asked for an opinion on the age of the ring. He was a bit perplexed on first look. However, he is 99% sure it dates in the 1910-1930 period and is indeed an original setting. The milgrain and engraving have been redone obviously. He was able to make out very worn markings, which he showed me, of end of the platinum mark "num" (it's like half of the "n" and "u" but "m" is more visibile) and numbers "19_9" which he thought could be 1919 or 1929. There was evidence of past repairs, which can make the setting look like a poor casting job. He called around to contacts, and believes I overpaid around $1,000 given the condition.

On his suggestion I then ran it to a local place with laser welding capabilities to get an estimate. They estimated $150 to repair, but do not typically work on this old of pieces. While there, I was also able to get a few pics of the markings - holding an iPhone up to the scope so was hard to capture.

So now I'm feeling okay keeping the ring (although there is just that tiny nagging that I wish I could get a full independent appraisal). I still wish the seller would have warned me of the repair work needed. Need to decide if I should send off to have repaired by a place better versed in old pieces or let the local place do it.

 

[Rfisher]

I’m curious what $150 worth of repair work would get you from the place that typically doesn’t work on vintage pieces?
If you feel you paid a decent price for a ring you love - that’s all that matters in the end.
But i’d still look around for a repair shop that has more experience in this area (and they have a portfolio of before and after work ) if I were you.
Best wishes and I hope you come back to post more pictures when it’s done!

 

[lovedogs]

Id be very nervous about a repair shop that doesn't usually do this work quoting only $150. Seems a bit unlikely that it will end happily. But of course all that matters is that you love it!

 

[LightBright]

Under no circumstances would I trust a jeweler with little experience doing antique restoration. Call Cicada Jewelry in Los Angeles in the morning and ask for an estimate. He is a jeweler and a cutter with extensive antique restoration experience, and his father is The Gem Doctor who does intricate stone cutting including colored stones for these types of halos and can cut just about anything. I think if the ring is currently $1,000 over-priced, you could be losing more than $150 more to rehab it. A simple stone set and resize costs about $150 in Los Angeles. Your ring is badly warped and bent and needs to be reshaped and repaired and the onyx needs to be set better so it’s not loose. It also could use re-engraving. I know someone whose competent jeweler accidentally mangled the prongs on her antique ring and it totally changed character of the ring so please don’t go to any old jeweler...

https://www.instagram.com/cjd_sako/?hl=en

I would proceed with caution and educate yourself about true costs.

 

[PreRaphaelite]

Many of the PSers who offer you advice are highly experienced in dealing with antiques and have dealt with all the pitfalls associated with restoration, as well as the heartache of disappointment when all efforts fall short. They’re hoping you’ll be careful in your choice, given the extra pressure of short decision-making time. Every one of them is pulling for you.

You came for advice, and you have that, plus support and encouragement.

ps - my personal opinion is that there is another ring out there somewhere for you and I hope you find it! Wishing you all the best!

 

[AMRose]

Yes @PreRaphaelite everyone here has been simply wonderful! I really do appreciate all the opinions. I am sure many are understandably skeptical (I still am as well) but I love the ring and feel okay about it still, even if others think it's crazy to keep it

I also don't feel comfortable letting the local place do the repairs; that price seems way too low. @LightBright I will contact Cicada today, among other places.

I'll also keep hunting for a cool asscher ring to buy in a few years! And antique earrings too

 

[PreRaphaelite]

Great! We are all excited to share the steps of your journey!

 

[canuk-gal]

HI:

OP, any updates?

cheers--Sharon

 

[AMRose]

Yes, @canuk-gal, I ended up sending it back to the seller, who is having her bench repair the ring. The seller is covering the shipping and I will cover the cost of the repair, at her discounted price. Seller is also getting the appraisal and qualitative report completed since I purchased before she had those.

Considered arranging the repair independently (and did contact Sako @ Cicada), but hopefully all turns out fine. If I have concerns after it's returned or need more extensive repairs I will drop in the mail to Sako next.

 

[elizat]

Who is the seller? Just curious as to why these things were not disclosed in the details.

Eta: looks like it is Jewels by Grace? Ring was on her IG feed or one that looks identical.

 

[PreRaphaelite]

I believe it is the same ring.

 

[AMRose]

You are correct, it was from Jewels by Grace. I purchased before it was officially listed, so there was no detailed information on the site. I called but talked more generally about the diamond color, specs, etc. I certainly learned to ask more questions on condition the next time I purchase something like this

 

[elizat]

You are correct, it was from Jewels by Grace. I purchased before it was officially listed, so there was no detailed information on the site. I called but talked more generally about the diamond color, specs, etc. I certainly learned to ask more questions on condition the next time I purchase something like this

Old pieces can be hard. I saw some of the flaws in the video on IG but if you don't know to look for them or to ask, it can go unaddressed. Hopefully you will be happy with the repair work. Although, I think because it wasn't disclosed you shouldn't bear the brunt of it.

 

[Rfisher]

JbyG warranty statement on her website states all items are refurbished before sale to ensure they are durable and safe to wear.
Does this not apply to IG sales? Is there a disclaimer somewhere?
And I guess durable and safe to wear is a subjective concept?

Anyways- I think it’s a gorgeous ring. Hope it turns out to your satisfaction, and I really hope to see more pics!

 

[soxfan]

Wow. I can't believe she sold it to you in that condition.

 

[PreRaphaelite]

This is the same seller who wouldn't not extend the return window?

 

[oldminer]

The ring looks old, but it could possibly be from the mid-1900's as these were popular for a long time and the old jewelers who made them near 1900 kept on producing them on demand for the next 40 years. The problem of the sloppy ajouring under the onyx may be a sign of the central bezel having been replaced at some time in the a recent than early period. Maybe the onyx were the original outside stones or maybe they were sapphires, rubies or emeralds when the ring was created. The ring is pretty, but with the wear condition, it would be best for occasional wear, not daily use. If an onyx or two fell out, it would not be a big deal financially compared to the precious variety of gemstones, but it would become a nuisance. Fixing all the outer walls would be somewhat costly and might leave the ring looking clumsy or heavy around the outer perimeter. It will add some thickness or it won't be any stronger so you can plan on that effect being a bit visible. It was thicker when it was new, so it does not need to be ugly, but the repair will put in back into a newer look which was certainly a little chunkier.

If you are buying the ring very close to the value of the main diamond, then having a new mounting made is something to consider, especially if you want to wear this ring frequently.

 

[AMRose]

JbyG warranty statement on her website states all items are refurbished before sale to ensure they are durable and safe to wear.
Does this not apply to IG sales? Is there a disclaimer somewhere?
And I guess durable and safe to wear is a subjective concept?

When I reached out about the condition, the seller stated she was aware it "would likely need some refurbishment in the future." I had read that same warranty info on the website so was surprised at the condition it arrived it (hence posting here!). While safe to wear is subjective to some extent, I feel the condition should have been disclosed - even if someone does not ask pointed questions on condition.

Right @PreRaphaelite this is the seller that would not extend the return period.

@soxfan the antique jewelry guy that looked at it here was NOT impressed that it was sold that way either. Said he'd never let something leave his hands like that. He was surprised it was from a rather well known seller and not an individual that I purchased it from.

Anyhoo, I consider myself a pretty reasonable person so I'll take some of the blame for not asking more questions.

 

[PreRaphaelite]

I'm sorry that shadows are cast upon the experience of buying a ring but we are here to support you.

 

[AMRose]

I'm sorry that shadows are cast upon the experience of buying a ring but we are here to support you.

Zero reason to apologize! I am on here to hear everything this forum has to say - the good, the bad and the ugly

 

[AMRose]

The ring looks old, but it could possibly be from the mid-1900's as these were popular for a long time and the old jewelers who made them near 1900 kept on producing them on demand for the next 40 years. The problem of the sloppy ajouring under the onyx may be a sign of the central bezel having been replaced at some time in the a recent than early period. Maybe the onyx were the original outside stones or maybe they were sapphires, rubies or emeralds when the ring was created. The ring is pretty, but with the wear condition, it would be best for occasional wear, not daily use. If an onyx or two fell out, it would not be a big deal financially compared to the precious variety of gemstones, but it would become a nuisance. Fixing all the outer walls would be somewhat costly and might leave the ring looking clumsy or heavy around the outer perimeter. It will add some thickness or it won't be any stronger so you can plan on that effect being a bit visible. It was thicker when it was new, so it does not need to be ugly, but the repair will put in back into a newer look which was certainly a little chunkier.

If you are buying the ring very close to the value of the main diamond, then having a new mounting made is something to consider, especially if you want to wear this ring frequently.

Well... you are one of the appraisers the seller uses so perhaps this ring is headed your way! Would certainly be interesting to hear more of your thoughts if it crosses your hands in person soon.

Agree that it certainly needs work before it can be worn frequently. Hoping it is returned to me in daily wear condition. We will see.

 

[PreRaphaelite]

a pretty reasonable person

I think this might be an understatement.
You sound like a pretty well-adjusted individual!

 

[oldminer]

I had no idea this was a JbG purchase. I do often see and describe many nice items from her offerings. Maybe she could have the rebuilding done for you so that her wearability warranty would be applicable and still not cost you way too much. At least, any craftsman she might use would have experience in old items and a track record with her on the quality of restoration. If you do return the item, it well may end up at my desk for the description work I do on many of the items she lists for sale.

 

[AMRose]

I had no idea this was a JbG purchase. I do often see and describe many nice items from her offerings. Maybe she could have the rebuilding done for you so that her wearability warranty would be applicable and still not cost you way too much. At least, any craftsman she might use would have experience in old items and a track record with her on the quality of restoration. If you do return the item, it well may end up at my desk for the description work I do on many of the items she lists for sale.

I am keeping the ring BUT the ring is currently back in CA and JbG will send back to me with an appraisal and qualitative report. Her bench is also doing repairs (at my cost). So it certainly could still pass through your hands oldminer!

 

[Rfisher]

I hope so.
If not , after this thread, it would be subject to speculation.

 

[LightBright]

Yes, @canuk-gal, I ended up sending it back to the seller, who is having her bench repair the ring. The seller is covering the shipping and I will cover the cost of the repair, at her discounted price. Seller is also getting the appraisal and qualitative report completed since I purchased before she had those.

Considered arranging the repair independently (and did contact Sako @ Cicada), but hopefully all turns out fine. If I have concerns after it's returned or need more extensive repairs I will drop in the mail to Sako next.

Based on what I’ve seen on his Instagram, Sako might be JBG’s restoration guy. I think he restores/repairs for Walton’s as well. (He might just cover your ring’s repair on his Instagram, that would be cool to see!) I think going through Jewels by Grace is a good idea for many reasons. Best of all possible outcomes, IMO. I think it’s going to be GREAT. Happy for you!

 

[Mixtress]

I am glad you have found a way to make the ring work for you, it's a stunning ring, and gorgeous on your hand!

 

[AMRose]

The ring is back after being repaired and looks so much better! It underwent quite a bit more work than the seller originally anticipated was needed. It does have a bit of wonkiness with the onyx halo not being the same width around but just gives it a little character

Definitely agree I could have spent less starting new and replicating this (so I likely overpaid some) but I still love it and I learned lots so I am good with how it all turned out.

Again, thanks for all the comments and help with this, it was all very much appreciated. This is such a wonderful forum.

Here are some pics - I am not as skilled as most of you PS'ers at getting good ones!

(PS - next on my list are OEC studs if anyone sees any that are 7.8mm and J/K color )

View this content on Instagram

View this content on Instagram

 

[Rfisher]

It’s gorgeous!
I love that it still has character!
Whichever it means that it needed more rehab than the vendor anticipated on your dime or hers-
It’s finished and in your hands and you can enjoy -and I hope whatever PS effect there was, was positive leaning towards you.
Lovely photos - if you happen to take more -please post them!

 

[Tekate]

Wow it's gorgeous, I saw it in Insta and was blown away.. I admire your tenacity and your ability to see the forest thru the trees with this ring.. I love it!