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Antique reproduction custom design advice

khn

Rough_Rock
Joined
Nov 12, 2014
Messages
14
Hello PS community,
Any advice or insights would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for taking the time to educate me in this process. I would like to reset my 1.5 ct princess cut diamond (H, SI1, 6.72 x 5.98 x 4.55mm) into an antique style halo design. This is my ER I have had for nearly 20 years, so I know it might not be the best choice for this style but I am attached to this diamond.
I intially contacted a local jewelry store for a stuller semi mount with .5 ctw baguette diamonds on the band and was quoted $2000. I thought maybe I should see if custom design would be a better idea but have no idea where to start. I really love art deco halo designs (I may be wrong on the time period, my apologies in advance) or baguette diamonds vertically channel set in a halo design. I have included pictures of my ER and examples of designs I am considering.
Please feel free to advise me about possible drawbacks about these designs or any advice you may think will be helpful (especially how to choose a custom jeweler ). Thank you again for your help.
Kindest Regards 20200624_195328.jpg 20200628_104101.png
20200628_103554.png 20200628_103410.png
 

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Rfisher

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Oct 19, 2013
Messages
2,390
The calibre cut/custom cut (to fit to the shape of your centerstone) halos you’ve shown as inspos will be well, well above the 2k mark.
You can eliminate the custom cutting of the halo stones fee by using standard cut squares or bags and filling in the in-betweens with metal, but it’s a totally different look. Both can be lovely!
Advice would be to look at similar finished work by local jewelers to you, they should have photos (hopefully many viewpoints of) of work they’ve done.
If you wish to send away -David Klass has done rings like these and may be a good option for you?. Look him up on Instagram to see what he’s done over the years.
 

1ofakind

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 22, 2012
Messages
757
+1 Everything @Rfisher said. DK made a similar style ring for me and we had to custom cut the baguettes for the halo. There were other options that would have made it easier on the budget. I've seen other similar style rings he has made...all beautiful as well.
 

khn

Rough_Rock
Joined
Nov 12, 2014
Messages
14
The calibre cut/custom cut (to fit to the shape of your centerstone) halos you’ve shown as inspos will be well, well above the 2k mark.
You can eliminate the custom cutting of the halo stones fee by using standard cut squares or bags and filling in the in-betweens with metal, but it’s a totally different look. Both can be lovely!
Advice would be to look at similar finished work by local jewelers to you, they should have photos (hopefully many viewpoints of) of work they’ve done.
If you wish to send away -David Klass has done rings like these and may be a good option for you?. Look him up on Instagram to see what he’s done over the years.
Thank you for your reply it was very helpful, May I ask what sending away usually involves? Thanks again.
 

khn

Rough_Rock
Joined
Nov 12, 2014
Messages
14
+1 Everything @Rfisher said. DK made a similar style ring for me and we had to custom cut the baguettes for the halo. There were other options that would have made it easier on the budget. I've seen other similar style rings he has made...all beautiful as well.
Thank you for your reply, it was very helpful as I have no experience in sourcing custom jewelry. I looked at DK instagram, very beautiful! Your DK ring I can only imagine is very beautiful too. May I ask what the other options that were more budget friendly than custom cutting were? Based on the advice I have received, custom cutting does not seem likely for my budget. Thanks again for your help.
 

1ofakind

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 22, 2012
Messages
757
I sent DK info on the center that I already had and inspiration pics....just as you have done here. He worked on some initial CAD's and pricing so I would know what I was getting into and could evaluate options. When I was comfortable with the overall plan I sent him my EC so he could make a more detailed CAD. At that point I received a plastic model of what would be the final ring. Given the commitment to custom cutting the baguettes the plastic model was crucial to the process, for me.

I could have gone with round stones in the halo or even just in the corners to make standard size baguettes fit. Squares would have worked in place of baguettes too. I like both looks but just wanted something more seamless. If you start with building the halo as close as possible with standard sizes then it's a matter of how to puzzle it together. Do you want a bezel to your center, do you want the halo angled a bit or flat, a little more or less metal...all of those small changes can make a difference in being able to work with standard vs pushing to custom cuts. Send DK an email and he'll walk you through the options. They are very easy to work with. If you have a specific budget let him know upfront.
 

kgizo

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 14, 2009
Messages
1,643
Your diamond is lovely. Your inspiration pics have cut corners and your princess has sharp corners. I suggest you look at princess or emerald halos for inspiration to give you a better idea of what to expect with your stone. Are you open to halos with round diamonds? Or baguettes as side stones instead of a halo? Those options will likely be more budget friendly.
7498A06D-949C-45C1-B5D6-6D752A561E13.jpeg 9FAE1F27-BC37-4023-9197-A7BE6D88FA5E.jpeg
 

khn

Rough_Rock
Joined
Nov 12, 2014
Messages
14
I sent DK info on the center that I already had and inspiration pics....just as you have done here. He worked on some initial CAD's and pricing so I would know what I was getting into and could evaluate options. When I was comfortable with the overall plan I sent him my EC so he could make a more detailed CAD. At that point I received a plastic model of what would be the final ring. Given the commitment to custom cutting the baguettes the plastic model was crucial to the process, for me.

I could have gone with round stones in the halo or even just in the corners to make standard size baguettes fit. Squares would have worked in place of baguettes too. I like both looks but just wanted something more seamless. If you start with building the halo as close as possible with standard sizes then it's a matter of how to puzzle it together. Do you want a bezel to your center, do you want the halo angled a bit or flat, a little more or less metal...all of those small changes can make a difference in being able to work with standard vs pushing to custom cuts. Send DK an email and he'll walk you through the options. They are very easy to work with. If you have a specific budget let him know upfront.
Thank you again for your help and for taking the time to write such a thoughtful and detailed response. Your advice has given me a lot to think about when deciding on design choices. I came across a design that had the elements I thought I wanted but could not figure out why I did not like it. Now that you mentioned the halo angle, it makes sense. Thanks again.
 

khn

Rough_Rock
Joined
Nov 12, 2014
Messages
14
Your diamond is lovely. Your inspiration pics have cut corners and your princess has sharp corners. I suggest you look at princess or emerald halos for inspiration to give you a better idea of what to expect with your stone. Are you open to halos with round diamonds? Or baguettes as side stones instead of a halo? Those options will likely be more budget friendly.
7498A06D-949C-45C1-B5D6-6D752A561E13.jpeg 9FAE1F27-BC37-4023-9197-A7BE6D88FA5E.jpeg
Thank you for your kind response and the inspiration pics, they are very helpful. I am open to round diamonds too but my first choice would be baguettes or square. I am glad you mentioned the corners of princess cut, one of the inspiration pics did not load. 20200628_162108.png
 

elizat

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
1,835

This vendor makes antique inspired settings.

I searched for one that would accommodate a square or a princess stone and this one came up.

They can probably change the orientation of the head for you with a small custom fee.

That would probably be a lot more budget friendly than doing completely custom, which I think will probably be over $2,000 as someone that has quite a few settings made!
 

1ofakind

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 22, 2012
Messages
757
1593380422485.png
Here is another example of a setting that screams art deco but uses mostly rounds with a few baguettes as a nice balance/accent.
 

khn

Rough_Rock
Joined
Nov 12, 2014
Messages
14

This vendor makes antique inspired settings.

I searched for one that would accommodate a square or a princess stone and this one came up.

They can probably change the orientation of the head for you with a small custom fee.

That would probably be a lot more budget friendly than doing completely custom, which I think will probably be over $2,000 as someone that has quite a few settings made!
Thank you for taking the time to suggest this vendor and for your help. I travel to Chicago twice a year to visit family, so this might work very well because they are based there. Thanks again.
 

LilAlex

Shiny_Rock
Premium
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Messages
346
The calibre cut/custom cut (to fit to the shape of your centerstone) halos you’ve shown as inspos will be well, well above the 2k mark.
Agree. And unless you can flank it with half-moons or trilliants of the same width, I fear it will still look "modern" no matter what you do...

Pretty stone and pretty ring in its current state, though, and I love the idea of throwing in some color after 20 years.

Spouse recently had her 1.2-ct RBC "permanently" mounted after 20 years of all-day-every-day wear in a $50 placeholder 14K YG solitaire setting (!). Life gets in the way. She went with one very similar to your current one =)2
 
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