another embassy emerald

[partgypsy]

Reading about embassy emeralds and the cross posts, i ended making an impulse buy of a baguette emerald from them! (.52 carat) I may even go ahead and have them make a ring for me, because what I want is simple (bezel in yellow gold).

I find emeralds can be a beautiful, mysterious, and entrancing stone. That said, they can be difficult to shop for. A number of years ago I tried 2 times to purchase an emerald over the internet, and returned both times because they didn't look like the picture (less saturated/too light).
So I am both nervous and excited about this embassy purchase. It does seem to have that glow I want, just hope it has enough color saturation for me.

 

[epgs]

Looks great so far! I hope it is what you were looking for when you finally get it.

It sure does have that amazing glow that emeralds have. I too have found it hard to find my perfect emerald.. I am very picky, i want the best ( i can afford) and fine emeralds do get expensive

 

[minousbijoux]

PG: I'm soooo with you on the difficulty of buying online and find, as you have noted, that saturation is typically the culprit. Strong lighting appears to bring out contrast - and therefore saturation - in stones. Since vendors typically use excellent, bright lighting, it often overemphasizes the intensity of color. I, too, have sent back a number of stones for this reason and I always feel bad when I do.

As to your stone, it sure looks to have the glow, the intense color and the ever-so-slight bluish quality. I hope its as pretty in hand. I'm also gonna go out on a limb here and say that I'm happy to hear you're thinking of a bezel since it has sharp corners.

 

[partgypsy]

That's my other concern. I'm not so concerned that it is a baguette versus an emerald cut because, I'm really more about the color than the refractive properties, but I will need to set it in something that completely protects those corners.

 

[peacechick]

It looks beautiful in the photos. Please keep us updated when it comes (with lots of photos). If it is as good as it looks here, we should add Embassy Emeralds to our sticky list of gem vendors?

 

[partgypsy]

Well, got some quotes back. To have Embassy do the setting (18K bezel) would be $660.
To have local jeweler do (bezel stacking ring style) would cost $900.

I guess I'm a little surprised at the costs, considering I'm providing the stone and the design is extremely simple, or is this in line with what people would expect?
Can anyone give a suggestions where else I could get this set? (I would prefer a bezel or semibezel, stacking style ring) Though I prefer 18K, I could do 14K. I know some people have had luck with some etsy sellers.

 

[peacechick]

It doesn't really sound pricy for 18k gold actually. Gold prices are sky high these days. Bezels may look simple but it's a lot of careful workmanship (think about all the delicate hammering).

Maybe PM the PSers here that have used DanielM, ValerieK and others to ask about pricing?

You could also try buying a custom semi-mount setting and having it set by a local jeweler? This thread may be useful:
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/custom-semi-mount-advice.190278/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/custom-semi-mount-advice.190278/[/URL]

 

[partgypsy]

Sigh, I think you may be right, but I love the combination of high carat yellow gold and emerald (always wanted to have that combination).
I'm going to get one more quote from say an etsy seller and then get back to Embassy.

I am torn, because I really want to see the stone in person. but I feel if I receive the stone, I'll probably just hold onto it and won't get around to getting it set (or at least for a long while).

But maybe I need to be patient and save up for the setting I truly want (18K).

 

[partgypsy]

Hello all, I should be getting the stone tomorrow (I hemmed and hawed whether I should just have them set it directly, but I was too chicken). They quoted $660, so that is my fall back.

So, if I like the stone I would like to set it in an east west setting, at preferably the whole thing in 18K yellow gold or at least the semi bezel part in 18k.

So I would like to leave no stone unturned. If you know if say an etsy jeweler that you would recommend for attractive yet reasonably cost designs, I'd appreciate it!

 

[chrono]

I can't wait to see it as I think that's a lovely emerald. $660 seems like a good price for an 18K yellow bezel as that's the quote that I received from an Etsy vendor for a simple setting years ago prior to the gold price hike. East/West is perfect for that cut shape and size.

 

[partgypsy]

Well I received the emerald. The color and crystal is exactly what I was looking for. The pictures look more gray than it does in life. But, my impression is, it is small. I knew intellectually what the dimensions were, I just don't know if I'll be satisfied with it, but wishing I held out for a larger emerald (I know, I know, I have champagne tastes on a beer budget). Just that the stone I'd want (around a carat), probably be around 1K, and can't justify that spending that at this time.

I'm going to sleep on it, and decide whether to keep and set it. It is very pretty, but I'm not going to keep stones that I'm not going to do anything with (other than admire).
One option I already have a tsavorite garnet (around a carat) so maybe what I will do is return and simply get around to setting the tsavorite.

 

[chrono]

A tsavorite is so different from an emerald though. What are the dimensions of this one? Setting it EW in a bezel isn't doing it for you to help it look bigger?

 

[partgypsy]

Yes they are 2 very different looks.
I guess I was thinking of emerald I would like to be jumping into a pool of green, this is more of a puddle! But maybe once it's set it could be seen better.

I'll just sit on it for a day to see how I feel.

 

[partgypsy]

It's 5.71 x 3.78

 

[T L]

You sure you want to put an emerald, in particular, one with sharp corners, in a bezel? They have many surface cracks by their nature, and a bezel would just stress these cracks. I've seen it happen with emeralds.

 

[partgypsy]

It won't be in a bezel, but a semi bezel, basically straight lines along the short ends of the baguette.
Do you think that will still be a problem?

 

[T L]

It won't be in a bezel, but a semi bezel, basically straight lines along the short ends of the baguette.
Do you think that will still be a problem?

I don't know - I just hope you use a very experienced goldsmith who is accustomed to setting emeralds. I think a softer gold like 18K is also more appropriate.

Also, never ever let them put it in an ultrasonic cleaner. Some goldsmiths do that once they set a gem.

 

[partgypsy]

Well, I'm getting very frustrated and about to give up ever having a custom made emerald ring.
I'm very happy with the stone itself, but I basically am having trouble with getting it set. Apparently even just saying the word "emerald" is enough to have competent setters refuse to work with it.
The problem, is that I would like a semi bezel ring, or failing that a bezel ring.
One vendor refused.
One person agreed for 650 (or 550 depending on gold type) but said does not guarantee/insure stone not breaking.
One vendor I have been in communication back and forth, initially said 375, and then said could not guarantee stone not breaking, now saying doesn't want to do it (even though I found the person's work because it was an emerald ring with that exact design!!!). I even said I am open to options of what the jeweler thought would be best and would be even willing to ship them the stone to examine, and that's when they said I should just go elsewhere???

A jewelry store I trust, for a simple bezel setting (either 14K or 18K) I had a quote for 880.
The original vendors quoted 660.

Again, the original stone costs $280.
I am very picky about emeralds and finally found one I want to set, but unable to unless I spend at least double on a simple setting, yet with no guarantees, etc of breakage!

Unless anyone can give me any ideas (any way I can seperately insure a loose stone) I'm at a loss what to do.

 

[chrono]

PG,
Regardless of stone, there's no vendor I know of that guarantees no damage. One usually either signs a waiver of acknowledgement accepting the risk or has a 3rd part insurance.

 

[partgypsy]

how do I get 3rd party insurance?

 

[chrono]

Jewelers Mutual for sure. I don't know if Chubb still does.

 

[partgypsy]

OK sent an email to JM. I just don't know if it will be cost effective to insure a small stone.
I guess I have become disappointed, not because of the statement that does not guarantee non breakage, but the vendor who I have been having ongoing conversation, agreed to set it, agreed on design, gave a quote, is now getting cold feet.
And the other quotes are designs which cost significantly more, and I do not like the design as much.

So the other options are less attractive to me.

 

[smitcompton]

Hi,

Why don't you just go with the vendor you purchased the stone from?

Annette

 

[partgypsy]

I might end up having to do that. It's just that it's a full bezel, so I wonder if I won't be able to see the niceness of the stone so much.
Plus it is a north south bezel and I'd rather have an east west bezel.

 

[InToTheMystic]

Emeralds set north/south in a bezel look amazing! Such an elegant art deco look. And your emerald is such a lovely colour, I wouldn't stress too much.

Here are some pics of that sort of setting that I collected when we were designing my engagement ring (north/south bezel set tourmaline). My dream ring was a beautiful art deco emerald set exactly the way you are proposing.

 

[chrono]

I am sorry that your choice in design is somewhat forced by what which vendor is willing to do. Is EE not willing to do an EW bezel?

 

[partgypsy]

Well, it looks like I have 2 options. The vendor who is my number one, reconsidered and said I could mail stone, and then show to the setter would see what setter willing to do. My impatient side wants to do this.

Or, I heard back from EE. I could wait and have EE do the setting in Oct, Nov, when when they go back to Columbia, which would save 100-150 off the quoted price (save on shiping). I do also like their settings, and a big plus it is in 18K gold which is kind of my dream (emerald in heavy gold setting), and third I know they are experienced working with emeralds (that's pretty much all they do). In that case I would go with however their setter is comfortable setting their stones (traditional design). The biggest downside is the WAIT.
In either case neither vendor guarantees the stone. However EE says they have 1% chance of cracking during setting, which I'm willing to accept!

I contacted JM and got a phone number, but haven't yet called them.

 

[partgypsy]

This is what the EE ring would essentially look like.


The east west setting ring (but beefier) is the intent for the other vendor ring

any comments?

 

[chrono]

Goodness gracious, I don't which option I would choose if I were in your shoes as well!

Vendor 1:
What metal type is the setter using? 14K YG? Is the bench experienced with setting emeralds AND bezel work? Have you drawn the stone on a piece of paper, cut it and worn / taped it EW to make sure the EW orientation looks good on YOU. I love EW stones but certain proportions don't look right on my finger.

EE
Do you have the time to wait until November? Is $100 in savings significant enough to steer you one way or another? 18K YG would be perfect and is easier to work with for a bezel job. In terms of stone safety considering you want it to be bezeled, I have a mind clean confidence with EE. How do you feel about their traditional NS full bezel design?

 

[partgypsy]

I ended up communicating with Embassy, and as the mounting are hand made (not cast) it is no problem to do an east west setting, or even other changes . But I think I'm going to keep it simple, simple enough it could be stacked with other bands if need be.
Many of my rings are more of a "band" style, as that is my preference, I seem to gravitate to that look.

I am an impatient person, but I've waited this long to do this, guess I can wait another 4 months at this point.
It's not just the $100 saving but that the EE setter appears more experienced/comfortable with setting emeralds, plus it will be 18K verus 14K which is my preference.

So if I do this, just need to put it out of my mind for the next few months. That will be the difficult part...