Advice on Shane Co. Setting + GOG Brellia Center Stone

[GoSounders]

Edit: Sorry for the wall of text. Specific questions are at the bottom.

Hey guys, I've been digesting tons of info for the last couple weeks, but I'm hoping to get some more specific insight from the community here. My girlfriend didn't tell me exactly what she wants in a ring, and I don't think she even knows exactly. I'm also planning it to be a surprise. So I'm looking for something that looks good to me that I think she'll enjoy. Here's where I started:

Budget: $5k out-the-door for everything
Shape: Cushion Cut
Size: about 1 carat
Color: I or better
Clarity: Eye clean, SI1-2 or better
Setting: something on the more delicate side
Timeline: very flexible

I started out my search at local jewelers, and was not impressed with most. I went to Shane Co., and even before educating myself on this site, their diamonds looked crappy and were either uncertified (they grade in-house) or had really terrible EGLI certs. I saw stones that were graded H VS2 by EGLI, and their in-house grade on the same stone was L I2. Really crazy stuff. Their better stones were okay-looking, but lacked wow factor and seemed very overpriced.

However, Shane Co. had a nice selection of settings, and I found this halo setting:
http://www.shaneco.com/Jewelry-Catalog/Product-Detail.aspx?ST=Engagement%20Rings&X=41045747
I like the design, and it's reasonably priced. Shane Co has a very good warranty, and I like the idea of giving my girlfriend a hassle-free ring with free cleanings, free rhodium re-finishing, free re-sizing, and free repairs.

Also, it turns out Shane Co will set outside diamonds after they inspect it to make sure there's no risk in setting the diamond. They charge a setting and inspection fee totaling about $350 for this diamond size. This sounds reasonable. The only rub is that their warranty doesn't cover the center stone if it comes from outside, but I feel okay with that if they're looking at the setting every 6 months when it goes in for cleaning.

So I turned to the internet in search of a center stone. Blue Nile led to Lumera led to Pricescope led to Good Old Gold. I stumbled onto the Brellia cushion stones, and they struck a chord with me for the first time in my search. I'm working with Sarah and Matt at GOG, and they're very helpful. The thing is, there's no way I'm getting a 1 carat Brellia within my budget, so I'm looking at 3/4 ct stones for around $3k. Also, the selection of Brellias out there isn't so large, and doesn't turn over frequently. I figure the 5mmx5mm size (instead of 5.6x5.6 or larger) will still look good in the halo ring. When I get a chance, I'll go and measure the setting to get a better idea. She isn't the type to scoff at a small stone, so as long as it fills in the setting, it's all good.

So my questions are:
1. Does it make sense to sacrifice size for cut like I'm planning to?
B. Is 0.70 ct too small to get the benefit from the Brellia H&A cut? Would it be appreciably better than another well-cut cushion?
3rd. is there anything I need to look out for when having a jeweler set stones from elsewhere?
Lastly, is there an alternative stone/setting/method that would fit my needs better?

I look forward to your responses, thanks in advance.

 

[nicoleanne]

Have you considered doing a round H&A in a cushion halo?

Like this: http://www.gabrielny.com/engaged/style/ER8263W44JJ
or this http://www.gabrielny.com/engaged/style/ER9319W44JJ

With, say, this little guy: http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond/10646/

On budget, bigger stone, and all in one stop.

The only thing I can think of about paying extra to go to a certain store/warranty, etc, is that if you move... then what? I know Shane Co. is in different areas, but I'd rather find a local trustworthy jeweler I like where I go and invest in their business, rather than a chain.

I don't looove the Shane Co setting. I don't like that it has the visible head sitting in the gallery. Looks like a stock head that was stuck in there. And it looks like the stone will sit up weirdly high. Do you know if your GF wants a split shank? With a wider split shank like that, it's harder to get a wedding band to sit flush and look right. I'd go with just a single shank myself.

This one has a slight split shank, but would still allow a band to sit flush. It looks a little high, too, but I think with Gabriel you can customize the head a bit to make it more flush if you wanted: http://www.gabrielny.com/engaged/style/ER8020W44JJ

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I would definitely buy the stone and setting from Good Old Gold. It is preferable to allow them to set the stone and you don't have to pay a setting fee in that case. They would take responsibility for any damage to the diamond during setting and you don't have to worry about anything happening to your diamond.

These will probably take a Brellia:

http://www.gabrielny.com/engaged/style/ER5432W44JJ

http://www.gabrielny.com/engaged/style/ER5432W44JJ

http://www.gabrielny.com/engaged/styles?category=ER&default_head_shape=CC

GOG carries many brands of settings. Just show them the style setting you like and they can show you similar settings besides these.

 

[GoSounders]

Thanks to both of you for your insight.

While I understand the anti-chain jeweler sentiment, I still put some value on buying from a B&M store close to me, and while I might not like their diamonds, I feel Shane Co is trustworthy in terms of their settings and warranty. I've visited other independent shops here in Seattle, but they are out of my budget, don't have near as good of a warranty, and/or don't mount outside stones. I do plan to keep looking for alternatives, since I'm in no rush. For now, I feel this is my best option.

Re: the head in the ShaneCo photo, that is indeed a stock head stuck on there, probably for a much larger stone than I'm planning to mount. I've been assured that a different, more appropriate head can be used, and that my stone will sit lower. I just measured the halo's inner diameter, and it's right at 5mmx5mm, which matches the 0.70ct Brellia I'm looking at.

Re: the split shank, I realize it might be difficult to find a matching wedding band, but I don't like the top-heavy look of a single, thin shank with an abrupt halo on top. As long as I can find a band that's compatible (or get a plain white gold band custom-made), there shouldn't be an issue, right?

Re: the round stone in a cushion halo, I don't like the shape mismatch and the fact that the stone must sit higher due to the pavilion starting out wider. I was open to this possibility before I found the Brellia. Now, even though the Brellia cushion is smaller, I feel the whole package would be more appealing.

As for alternative settings, there are a couple on the GOG site that are comparable, and I intend to ask for a quote tomorrow. As for the Gabriel & Co. links, the halos are either too square or too thick, though the price point is definitely good. I'm looking for a thinner halo, so as not to overpower the Brellia in the middle.

Looking forward to more suggestions!

 

[Haine]

I just bought a Brellia that's just shy of .5 carats, and I can still see the arrows. IMO the brellia is a beautiful cut. Why would you try to distract from it with a halo? The amount you are spending on the setting can be used to get a bigger brellia & it can be set in a solitaire setting. Or you could do it like Princess Madeline's and get it set on a diamond band. So super gorgeous! Way better than a cheap halo setting after spending so much on the diamond. http://pinterest.com/pin/514958538612831702/ I second going with good old gold for the setting. Oh, if they have melee solasfera/brellia like my local jeweller's, I'd use those.

 

[GoSounders]

I just bought a Brellia that's just shy of .5 carats, and I can still see the arrows. IMO the brellia is a beautiful cut. Why would you try to distract from it with a halo? The amount you are spending on the setting can be used to get a bigger brellia & it can be set in a solitaire setting. Or you could do it like Princess Madeline's and get it set on a diamond band. So super gorgeous! Way better than a cheap halo setting after spending so much on the diamond. http://pinterest.com/pin/514958538612831702/ I second going with good old gold for the setting. Oh, if they have melee solasfera/brellia like my local jeweller's, I'd use those.

Congrats on your Brellia! It makes me more confident about my purchase that you're happy with your stone. I haven't found much feedback on sub-carat Brellias.

As for the halo, I guess a 5mm stone sitting by itself looks a bit too small, a bit too plain to me. The halo is a distraction, but I feel like the design is more complete. I'm expecting the shine of the Brellia to make it impossible to be distracted by the peripheral diamonds.

I am open to the idea of setting on a diamond band... I'll have to keep my eyes open.

In the meantime, I've found a couple comparable Gabriel split-shank halo settings, though they're $400-$500 more. I'll ask Sarah at GOG for a quote tomorrow.
http://www.gabrielny.com/engaged/style/ER9255W44JJ
http://www.gabrielny.com/engaged/style/ER9402W44JJ

 

[Haine]

Congrats on your Brellia! It makes me more confident about my purchase that you're happy with your stone. I haven't found much feedback on sub-carat Brellias.

As for the halo, I guess a 5mm stone sitting by itself looks a bit too small, a bit too plain to me. The halo is a distraction, but I feel like the design is more complete. I'm expecting the shine of the Brellia to make it impossible to be distracted by the peripheral diamonds.

I am open to the idea of setting on a diamond band... I'll have to keep my eyes open.

In the meantime, I've found a couple comparable Gabriel split-shank halo settings, though they're $400-$500 more. I'll ask Sarah at GOG for a quote tomorrow.
http://www.gabrielny.com/engaged/style/ER9255W44JJ
http://www.gabrielny.com/engaged/style/ER9402W44JJ

Have you seen the cushion cut thread? [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/cushion-cuts-a-collection.135031/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/cushion-cuts-a-collection.135031/[/URL]
I'm just thinking, since your gf said she doesn't like a 1carat, wouldn't the halo bring it up to about the same size or even larger? I'm not sure what your gf is like, but do try to get an idea of what kind of setting she likes before you get too attached to a particular design. Anyway, I think it's worth paying more to get good diamonds to match the center stone. They should match each other in size & color too. It's probably what we are paying for when we go to better jewelers. I personally prefer a very flawless diamond & setting to getting bigger diamonds for less.

 

[momma2boys]

Good morning! I've been reading this thread and I would like to know why some people are so against Shane Co settings? My center stone is from another store, but I have had nothing but success with my settings from Shane Co. I have never had a pave diamond fall out in 3 years of daily wear. I have received countless compliments on the design and overall sparkle of my rings. I can vouch from personal experience how fantastic their warranty is, and I know that the quality of my side stones are great. I see no color, they are cut great, and all have clarify no less than SI 1. I understand that some people have had less than optimal service with Shane Co in the past, but I cannot relate to that experience at all. Many people on PS are very opinionated about where diamonds and settings should come from, which I think is great - most everyone is very well-informed and knowledgeable. I just happen to disagree with some of the negative opinions about Shane Co.

That's all! Good luck with your search!

 

[Lula]

Thanks to both of you for your insight.

While I understand the anti-chain jeweler sentiment, I still put some value on buying from a B&M store close to me, and while I might not like their diamonds, I feel Shane Co is trustworthy in terms of their settings and warranty. I've visited other independent shops here in Seattle, but they are out of my budget, don't have near as good of a warranty, and/or don't mount outside stones. I do plan to keep looking for alternatives, since I'm in no rush. For now, I feel this is my best option.

Re: the head in the ShaneCo photo, that is indeed a stock head stuck on there, probably for a much larger stone than I'm planning to mount. I've been assured that a different, more appropriate head can be used, and that my stone will sit lower. I just measured the halo's inner diameter, and it's right at 5mmx5mm, which matches the 0.70ct Brellia I'm looking at.

Re: the split shank, I realize it might be difficult to find a matching wedding band, but I don't like the top-heavy look of a single, thin shank with an abrupt halo on top. As long as I can find a band that's compatible (or get a plain white gold band custom-made), there shouldn't be an issue, right?

Re: the round stone in a cushion halo, I don't like the shape mismatch and the fact that the stone must sit higher due to the pavilion starting out wider. I was open to this possibility before I found the Brellia. Now, even though the Brellia cushion is smaller, I feel the whole package would be more appealing.

As for alternative settings, there are a couple on the GOG site that are comparable, and I intend to ask for a quote tomorrow. As for the Gabriel & Co. links, the halos are either too square or too thick, though the price point is definitely good. I'm looking for a thinner halo, so as not to overpower the Brellia in the middle.

Looking forward to more suggestions!

It's much easier to visualize the settings in person, so I understand your desire to stick with a local jeweler. If you've found a setting you like and they are willing to set an outside stone, that sounds like a good option for you.

Is it the square hearts and arrows cut that you like or the Brellia brand (or both) that you like? I'm asking because the Brelia is a very expensive cut, and Good Old Gold's prices are higher than some of the other online vendors.

If it's the square hearts and arrows cut you are after, Brian Gavin Designs carries a proprietary cut called the Quadex. You might want to do a price/size comparison.
http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/diamond/brian-gavins-quadex/
Brian Gavin Diamonds (BGD) is a reputable vendor. Give them a call; tell them that you're looking at a Brelia through Good Old Gold and ask if they can beat GOG on price and size.

Check out the radiants and cushions selection on James Allen -- if you can find a generic (non-branded) diamond with a facet pattern and shape similar to a square hearts-and-arrows cut, you'll be able to go up in size.
Consider a square (generic) radiant (not the crushed ice style radiant) like this:
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/radiant-cut/1.01-carat-j-color-vs1-clarity-sku-23461
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/radiant-cut/1.11-carat-j-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-23449
These are more rectangular in shape, but I'm linking it to show you the facet pattern.

Here's one that is square:
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/radiant-cut/1.01-carat-e-color-si2-clarity-sku-228307

Here's a cushion:
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/cushion-cut/0.77-carat-h-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-170278

Make sure you compare the length and width measurements rather than carat weight, when you are comparing diamonds. Depending on how the stone is cut, a .76 diamond may be larger than a .90 diamond, because radiants, cushions, and square cuts are typically cut a bit deeper than round diamonds. James Allen is also a reputable vendor, but their prices are lower because they are more "self-serve" and you'll have to sift through their inventory yourself. If you find something you like, e-mail them to put the stone on hold and then post the link to the stone her for feedback.

Don't lock yourself into one brand or one vendor for your diamond until you've done some more comparison shopping.

 

[diamond_concierge]

As a jeweler with 20+ years of experience, I have seen many pave diamonds fall out of even the highest quality designer rings over the years. What many people do not realize is that even though diamonds are the hardest substance known to mankind, they are also brittle. Many day to day activities that we take for granted can damage, chip, or break a very small diamond. One whack on a granite countertop and a pave diamond can easily become dislodged. Most often, a very small diamond (melee) will fall out because it was chipped or broken first. Nine times out of ten when a customer comes in with a small diamond that fell out, there is an impact mark on the surrounding metal.

 

[Haine]

As a jeweler with 20+ years of experience, I have seen many pave diamonds fall out of even the highest quality designer rings over the years. What many people do not realize is that even though diamonds are the hardest substance known to mankind, they are also brittle. Many day to day activities that we take for granted can damage, chip, or break a very small diamond. One whack on a granite countertop and a pave diamond can easily become dislodged. Most often, a very small diamond (melee) will fall out because it was chipped or broken first. Nine times out of ten when a customer comes in with a small diamond that fell out, there is an impact mark on the surrounding metal.

I'm not the TS but thanks for posting! I was seriously considering the pave for my proposal ring but I'm ridiculously clumsy & careless. What do you think of eternity bands then?

 

[diamondseeker2006]

The downside of eternity bands is that a woman's ring size is likely to change over her lifetime and she may at some point not be able to wear her wedding band anymore. So keep that in mind.

I just like having the diamond set by the vendor who sells it, but there is technically nothing wrong with buying a setting locally as long as they will pay you for the diamond if they damage it during setting (it is rare but can happen). Or insure with Jeweler's Mutual BEFORE having it set. Call them and they will tell you how to do that. The warranty does not protect you against all kinds of loss or damage, so you still have to have insurance on the whole ring. That is probably the best idea, insure before you have the diamond set.

I strongly favor a halo on a diamond that size. I think the style you are looking for is great. And a wedding band made exactly like the shank of the ring (single strand) is what goes with that the best. I'd just buy one that has a sizing bar at the bottom so it can be resized. That ring may have a matching band, too.

 

[antiquesparkler]

I just wanted to say that I had a diamond I inherited from my grandmother reset into a Shane Co. setting and they have been nothing but wonderful. I love the lifetime warranty and I have insurance in case anything happens to the diamond. Did Shane Co. quote you an amount 'per point' to set the diamond? The amount you stated above for the inspection and setting of the diamond seems a little high so I was curious.

Great setting! Good luck!

 

[GoSounders]

I'm just thinking, since your gf said she doesn't like a 1carat, wouldn't the halo bring it up to about the same size or even larger? I'm not sure what your gf is like, but do try to get an idea of what kind of setting she likes before you get too attached to a particular design. Anyway, I think it's worth paying more to get good diamonds to match the center stone. They should match each other in size & color too. It's probably what we are paying for when we go to better jewelers. I personally prefer a very flawless diamond & setting to getting bigger diamonds for less.

She hasn't said she doesn't like a 1 carat. She wants a ring very much, but not necessarily one that costs a lot. She also doesn't want an impractical, large, high-set stone. She's pointed out rings that she likes here and there on television/magazines in the last couple years. Out of about 10 or so instances of that over 2 years, I feel a cushion cut with a halo is a common theme and a safe bet. The split-shank is my personal preference (hopefully hers, too).

Good morning! I've been reading this thread and I would like to know why some people are so against Shane Co settings? My center stone is from another store, but I have had nothing but success with my settings from Shane Co.

I think it's based on perception more than reality. Shane Co., being a chain, likely gets relegated to the same level as mall shops in Pricescopers' minds. In terms of diamond quality and price, I'd say they're actually beneath the level of many mall stores. However, in terms of their setting quality, selection, and warranty, they're definitely better. It's an odd dichotomy. How was your experience setting an outside diamond at Shane Co, Megan?

Is it the square hearts and arrows cut that you like or the Brellia brand (or both) that you like? I'm asking because the Brelia is a very expensive cut, and Good Old Gold's prices are higher than some of the other online vendors.

If it's the square hearts and arrows cut you are after, Brian Gavin Designs carries a proprietary cut called the Quadex. You might want to do a price/size comparison.

Check out the radiants and cushions selection on James Allen -- if you can find a generic (non-branded) diamond with a facet pattern and shape similar to a square hearts-and-arrows cut, you'll be able to go up in size.
Consider a square (generic) radiant (not the crushed ice style radiant) like this:

Make sure you compare the length and width measurements rather than carat weight, when you are comparing diamonds. Depending on how the stone is cut, a .76 diamond may be larger than a .90 diamond, because radiants, cushions, and square cuts are typically cut a bit deeper than round diamonds.

Don't lock yourself into one brand or one vendor for your diamond until you've done some more comparison shopping.

The square hearts and arrows is what I like, and I definitely like the ASET and video I've seen of the Brellia. GOG actually suggested I consider their Princess of Hearts diamond because they get more of them, but it's not any cheaper and their ASET images don't look as good as the Brellia's. The Quadex seems comparable to the Brellia, though like the PoH, doesn't match its ASET quality. I will keep an eye on BGD's inventory.

Any idea on why Quadex in your link is listed at 6.08mmx5.12mm? The picture is a much a squarer stone. The other H&A squares on BGD have similar listed proportions. Is the first number the diagonal length?

I have been looking at James Allen's inventory. Before I end up buying, I'll probably call in a couple stones to JA and get them ASET imaged. It seems like a crapshoot for cushions, though.

Edit: Just found a .50 carat H&A radiant on JA. If it were larger than 4.5mm, I'd be very interested.
http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/radiant-cut/0.50-carat-h-color-vs2-clarity-sku-144438

I just wanted to say that I had a diamond I inherited from my grandmother reset into a Shane Co. setting and they have been nothing but wonderful. I love the lifetime warranty and I have insurance in case anything happens to the diamond. Did Shane Co. quote you an amount 'per point' to set the diamond? The amount you stated above for the inspection and setting of the diamond seems a little high so I was curious.

Great setting! Good luck!

Yes, they quoted $3 per point to set, plus about $55 for the head. For a 0.70ct stone, it would come out to $290 after sales tax. Does that seem like more in line with what you paid? The $350 was for mounting a larger stone. Turns out the inspection is free, but it's only to make sure there's no risk in setting the diamond, not an appraisal.

 

[momma2boys]

I had a great experience with getting my diamond reset. A jeweler at the Woodbury,MN store did it, which is where I'm from. I was charged $3/point as well. That particular store has been fantastic to work with. At the time, I didn't know that I could change the head out, so I'm glad you know that and can do that if you choose. I actually am in the process of getting my diamond reset back into my original engagement ring. It has nothing to do with Shane Co, I just really miss that ring! I will still be putting my 2 Shane Co bands on either side though. I should have done this from the beginning, I just didn't have the vision at the time.

 

[antiquesparkler]

I just wanted to say that I had a diamond I inherited from my grandmother reset into a Shane Co. setting and they have been nothing but wonderful. I love the lifetime warranty and I have insurance in case anything happens to the diamond. Did Shane Co. quote you an amount 'per point' to set the diamond? The amount you stated above for the inspection and setting of the diamond seems a little high so I was curious.

Great setting! Good luck!

[/quote]Yes, they quoted $3 per point to set, plus about $55 for the head. For a 0.70ct stone, it would come out to $290 after sales tax. Does that seem like more in line with what you paid? The $350 was for mounting a larger stone. Turns out the inspection is free, but it's only to make sure there's no risk in setting the diamond, not an appraisal.[/quote]

I have to look at the receipt. I think it was more in line with $1.50 a point but that was about a year ago. It might just have to do with the area I'm in.

Also, mine is just a plain solitaire so setting a halo may be more complicated.

 

[nicoleanne]

Good morning! I've been reading this thread and I would like to know why some people are so against Shane Co settings?

My mom's setting and diamond are from there, and the setting has some channel set diamonds. There was a problem with them, and my mom took the setting back to be fixed. Well, they didn't fix it the first time. Nor the second time. They actually made it worse. She just gave up on them actually fixing it... The diamonds are uneven in the channels on both sides, and the gold surrounding the channels looks awful and wobbly (and *not* in a PSer-looking-through-a-loupe kind of way). The head holding the center stone is crooked. They should have replaced the setting if their jewelers couldn't do a good job repairing the channels, but they didn't.

That said, I have one friend whose setting from there is beautiful.

 

[E B]

Just throwing this out, but I found this over at BGD. Haven't seen these before, so they must be relatively (?) new.

http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/d.../0.898-i-vs2-cushion-diamond-ags-104065184006

I don't know that it'd work with the Gabriel settings in terms of budget, but if you decide to go with a single pave band:

http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/e...u-prong-solitaire-pave-18k-white-gold-5699w18

 

[Haine]

She hasn't said she doesn't like a 1 carat. She wants a ring very much, but not necessarily one that costs a lot. She also doesn't want an impractical, large, high-set stone. She's pointed out rings that she likes here and there on television/magazines in the last couple years. Out of about 10 or so instances of that over 2 years, I feel a cushion cut with a halo is a common theme and a safe bet. The split-shank is my personal preference (hopefully hers, too).

Sounds good then! I'm sure you know best what she would like since you have been paying attention. Good luck!

 

[AprilBaby]

Just throwing this out, but I found this over at BGD. Haven't seen these before, so they must be relatively (?) new.

http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/d.../0.898-i-vs2-cushion-diamond-ags-104065184006

I don't know that it'd work with the Gabriel settings in terms of budget, but if you decide to go with a single pave band:

http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/e...u-prong-solitaire-pave-18k-white-gold-5699w18

Nice find!!!!

 

[GoSounders]

Just throwing this out, but I found this over at BGD. Haven't seen these before, so they must be relatively (?) new.

http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/d.../0.898-i-vs2-cushion-diamond-ags-104065184006

I don't know that it'd work with the Gabriel settings in terms of budget, but if you decide to go with a single pave band:

http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/e...u-prong-solitaire-pave-18k-white-gold-5699w18

That's a very nice setting. If I end up going non-halo, that would be the exact kind of setting I'd go for.

As for that stone, I think the arrows look very chunky, and a lot of surface is lost from head shadow. Compare to this:
http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/diamonds/diamond-details/0.716-e-si1-cushion-diamond-ags-104065050014

I think the .716 looks a lot more crisp, with a better ASET image to match.

It's also worth noting that the .716 is right about the same price as a .71 I SI1 Brellia I was quoted for. Only $60 difference between them, and the Brellia is actually a tiny bit larger in length and width.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Brellia's are outstanding ideal cut stones, and I think you were on the right track to begin with on the diamond. I don't think you'll find hardly any radiants or generic cushions with that level of light performance. It seemed that you were more interested in the setting situation, and I think you can go either way on that. Show GOG the setting you liked at Shane and see if they can come up with anything comparable. I think that setting is going to come in different qualities and the price will reflect that, though. And like I said, you can arrange insurance with Jeweler's Mutual prior to setting the diamond if you decide to go with a Shane setting. And one more thing, I have bought 4 diamonds from GOG at this point, and 3 of them could have come from other vendors (one a specialty cut that no one else has) but I found their prices to be competitive with the other vendors who specialize in well cut diamonds and lower in some cases.

 

[Lula]

Just throwing this out, but I found this over at BGD. Haven't seen these before, so they must be relatively (?) new.

http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/d.../0.898-i-vs2-cushion-diamond-ags-104065184006

I don't know that it'd work with the Gabriel settings in terms of budget, but if you decide to go with a single pave band:

http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/e...u-prong-solitaire-pave-18k-white-gold-5699w18

That's a very nice setting. If I end up going non-halo, that would be the exact kind of setting I'd go for.

As for that stone, I think the arrows look very chunky, and a lot of surface is lost from head shadow. Compare to this:
http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/diamonds/diamond-details/0.716-e-si1-cushion-diamond-ags-104065050014

I think the .716 looks a lot more crisp, with a better ASET image to match.

It's also worth noting that the .716 is right about the same price as a .71 I SI1 Brellia I was quoted for. Only $60 difference between them, and the Brellia is actually a tiny bit larger in length and width.

Nice find, E.B. I also like the setting; the head is very pretty. I do think the .716 you found will look a bit brighter in person than the .89 with chunkier arrows that E.B. posted. And in a smaller stone, brighter is better, in my opinion. You may want to give BGD a call and see what price they would give you if you bought the the diamond and the setting. I know you said that your girlfriend showed you some styles she liked a while ago. You may want to find out if her tastes have changed since then. Also, what size finger does she have? A halo may be a better choice (and a split shank) depending on the size of her finger.

To answer your question about the measurements, I'm not sure if BGD is including the diagonal measurement -- that would be interesting if they are doing that. I believe jewelers use the diagonal dimension to determine the correct size and shape of the head when setting the stone.

ETA: There's nothing wrong with doing a little comparison shopping. Make sure you compare the vendors' return policies, trade-in policies, sizing policies (in case the ring has be to resized), etc. And if you do decide to go with a setting with small diamonds in it, make sure the color of the small diamonds is close to the color of the main stone. I noticed that the BGD setting has F/G color melee. If you consider that setting, make sure to ask if it can be made with H/I melee if you go with an I or J color diamond. You may also want to check with Shane Company on the color of melee they use in their settings. But small stones tend to look whiter and brighter anyway because they are so tiny, so using lower color melee may or may not make a difference.

 

[Lula]

Brellia's are outstanding ideal cut stones, and I think you were on the right track to begin with on the diamond. I don't think you'll find hardly any radiants or generic cushions with that level of light performance. It seemed that you were more interested in the setting situation, and I think you can go either way on that. Show GOG the setting you liked at Shane and see if they can come up with anything comparable. I think that setting is going to come in different qualities and the price will reflect that, though. And like I said, you can arrange insurance with Jeweler's Mutual prior to setting the diamond if you decide to go with a Shane setting. And one more thing, I have bought 4 diamonds from GOG at this point, and 3 of them could have come from other vendors (one a specialty cut that no one else has) but I found their prices to be competitive with the other vendors who specialize in well cut diamonds and lower in some cases.

Sorry, I have to disagree with you. We see examples of generic radiants, cushions, and square hearts-and-arrows with good light performance on PS all the time! That's what ASET, IS, and visual inspection are all about. No need to tie the OP down to one vendor and one branded stone when there are other options out there. Especially if going with a generic allows him to maximize his budget and get a bigger stone.

 

[GoSounders]

Brellia's are outstanding ideal cut stones, and I think you were on the right track to begin with on the diamond. I don't think you'll find hardly any radiants or generic cushions with that level of light performance. It seemed that you were more interested in the setting situation, and I think you can go either way on that. Show GOG the setting you liked at Shane and see if they can come up with anything comparable. I think that setting is going to come in different qualities and the price will reflect that, though. And like I said, you can arrange insurance with Jeweler's Mutual prior to setting the diamond if you decide to go with a Shane setting. And one more thing, I have bought 4 diamonds from GOG at this point, and 3 of them could have come from other vendors (one a specialty cut that no one else has) but I found their prices to be competitive with the other vendors who specialize in well cut diamonds and lower in some cases.

I was indeed pretty set on the Brellia when I wrote my original post, but I took Lula's advice to heart about locking myself into one brand/supplier so early in my search. It makes sense to work the alternatives in parallel. You never know what might be out there.

As for the setting, how large can the deviation in quality be? The Shane setting looks very well-made in person (though I haven't looked at it through a loupe), and I've heard and read many good things about Shane Co. Paying more for a Gabriel setting seems like it's past the point of diminishing returns. I'll see what GOG quotes me.

Thanks for the heads-up on the insurance. I'll make sure of what Shane's policies are (in writing, of course), and if needed, I'll arrange insurance. Quick quote at JM was only 32 dollars/year for a $3k diamond, though I would need to pay for an appraisal, as well. Should I be getting an appraisal on my stone anyway?

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Brellia's are outstanding ideal cut stones, and I think you were on the right track to begin with on the diamond. I don't think you'll find hardly any radiants or generic cushions with that level of light performance. It seemed that you were more interested in the setting situation, and I think you can go either way on that. Show GOG the setting you liked at Shane and see if they can come up with anything comparable. I think that setting is going to come in different qualities and the price will reflect that, though. And like I said, you can arrange insurance with Jeweler's Mutual prior to setting the diamond if you decide to go with a Shane setting. And one more thing, I have bought 4 diamonds from GOG at this point, and 3 of them could have come from other vendors (one a specialty cut that no one else has) but I found their prices to be competitive with the other vendors who specialize in well cut diamonds and lower in some cases.

Sorry, I have to disagree with you. We see examples of generic radiants, cushions, and square hearts-and-arrows with good light performance on PS all the time! That's what ASET, IS, and visual inspection are all about. No need to tie the OP down to one vendor and one branded stone when there are other options out there. Especially if going with a generic allows him to maximize his budget and get a bigger stone.

Gosh, you know I spend a LOT of time on Rocky Talky, Lula, and I haven't seen that to be true at all. Most radiants are not going to have the light performance of a Brellia which are graded by AGS for ideal light performance. Good Old Gold and one other vendor are the only ones who produce ideal cut antique cushions, and it is not easy to find modern cushions with the light performance of those. I spend a fair amount of time helping people find generic cushions here, and it is hard to find them with ASETs close to the ones that are branded ideal cuts.

What other vendors besides Good Old Gold and BG are carrying square hearts and arrows? I can't even recall seeing a BG square hearts and arrows posted here (as in purchased), but if there have been any, it must be only a few.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Brellia's are outstanding ideal cut stones, and I think you were on the right track to begin with on the diamond. I don't think you'll find hardly any radiants or generic cushions with that level of light performance. It seemed that you were more interested in the setting situation, and I think you can go either way on that. Show GOG the setting you liked at Shane and see if they can come up with anything comparable. I think that setting is going to come in different qualities and the price will reflect that, though. And like I said, you can arrange insurance with Jeweler's Mutual prior to setting the diamond if you decide to go with a Shane setting. And one more thing, I have bought 4 diamonds from GOG at this point, and 3 of them could have come from other vendors (one a specialty cut that no one else has) but I found their prices to be competitive with the other vendors who specialize in well cut diamonds and lower in some cases.

I was indeed pretty set on the Brellia when I wrote my original post, but I took Lula's advice to heart about locking myself into one brand/supplier so early in my search. It makes sense to work the alternatives in parallel. You never know what might be out there.

As for the setting, how large can the deviation in quality be? The Shane setting looks very well-made in person (though I haven't looked at it through a loupe), and I've heard and read many good things about Shane Co. Paying more for a Gabriel setting seems like it's past the point of diminishing returns. I'll see what GOG quotes me.

Thanks for the heads-up on the insurance. I'll make sure of what Shane's policies are (in writing, of course), and if needed, I'll arrange insurance. Quick quote at JM was only 32 dollars/year for a $3k diamond, though I would need to pay for an appraisal, as well. Should I be getting an appraisal on my stone anyway?

You aren't insuring the diamond. You are insuring the whole ring, diamond plus setting in case of loss, the dog eating it, a tsunami, etc. You would get the appraisal on the completed ring probably from whoever sets the stone. It is normally provided free if the diamond and setting are bought in the same place, just as you usually do not pay the setting fee if the diamond and setting are bought from the same place.

I have no problem with you comparing your options! You just happened to choose a superior diamond in the first place, and if your standards are superior light performance, the Brellia's and BG square stones are going to outperform most other modern cushions. Plus they are usually shaped nicely for the kind of setting you want.

 

[GoSounders]

I know you said that your girlfriend showed you some styles she liked a while ago. You may want to find out if her tastes have changed since then. Also, what size finger does she have? A halo may be a better choice (and a split shank) depending on the size of her finger.

I really don't think she feels strongly for any certain style. If she did, she'd make it clear to me. Apart from a few definite dislikes (yellow gold, certain cuts), I think she's pretty open to whatever I think works for her.

I'm not sure of her finger size. I'll have to sneak away one of her rings or size it in her sleep. She's got pretty small hands, probably about a 5 or 5.5.

 

[Lula]

Brellia's are outstanding ideal cut stones, and I think you were on the right track to begin with on the diamond. I don't think you'll find hardly any radiants or generic cushions with that level of light performance. It seemed that you were more interested in the setting situation, and I think you can go either way on that. Show GOG the setting you liked at Shane and see if they can come up with anything comparable. I think that setting is going to come in different qualities and the price will reflect that, though. And like I said, you can arrange insurance with Jeweler's Mutual prior to setting the diamond if you decide to go with a Shane setting. And one more thing, I have bought 4 diamonds from GOG at this point, and 3 of them could have come from other vendors (one a specialty cut that no one else has) but I found their prices to be competitive with the other vendors who specialize in well cut diamonds and lower in some cases.

Sorry, I have to disagree with you. We see examples of generic radiants, cushions, and square hearts-and-arrows with good light performance on PS all the time! That's what ASET, IS, and visual inspection are all about. No need to tie the OP down to one vendor and one branded stone when there are other options out there. Especially if going with a generic allows him to maximize his budget and get a bigger stone.

Gosh, you know I spend a LOT of time on Rocky Talky, Lula, and I haven't seen that to be true at all. Most radiants are not going to have the light performance of a Brellia which are graded by AGS for ideal light performance. Good Old Gold and one other vendor are the only ones who produce ideal cut antique cushions, and it is not easy to find modern cushions with the light performance of those. I spend a fair amount of time helping people find generic cushions here, and it is hard to find them with ASETs close to the ones that are branded ideal cuts.

What other vendors besides Good Old Gold and BG are carrying square hearts and arrows? I can't even recall seeing a BG square hearts and arrows posted here (as in purchased), but if there have been any, it must be only a few.

It is true that I have much more experience with rounds. But I do know that the cushion thread is full of beautiful, non-branded (generic) cushions of all types and sizes https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/cushion-cuts-a-collection.135031/. Also, Charmy's cushion-cut/Harry Winston thread has many examples of beautiful non-branded cushions https://www.pricescope.com/communit...rience-in-making-a-harry-winston-halo.183473/.

I agree that if Sounders wants a square hearts-and-arrows, the two go-to vendors on PS are Good Old Gold and Brian Gavin. But, Sounders' first post specified "cushion cut," and cushion cuts come in a wide variety of types. Sounders, if you haven't already done so, take a look at the two threads I linked in the previous paragraph; those threads describe in detail, with great photos, the differences among the various types of cushions. Most people prefer one type over the others.

To be perfectly honest, and this may be a sacrilege on PS, in diamonds under a carat, I'd prefer a slightly larger, brighter generic cushion to a smaller stone with perfect "light performance" and optics. I think perfect cut is much more noticeable in larger diamonds; less so in diamonds under 1 carat. Of course, there is a limit to how far one can push cut quality; poorly cut cushions look dark and dull and small. So it's important to get ASET images for any generic stone. If I were the OP, I'd look for a generic cushion with good light performance in the largest size I could afford. I'd set it low in a simple solitaire with diamonds on the band, or in a simple split shank with diamonds on the band. And I wouldn't necessarily choose a halo, especially a halo where the diamond sits above the halo, because the OP's girlfriend says she doesn't want the stone to sit up too high. The Shane Company ring may be designed in a way that has the diamond "perched" above the halo; that's definitely something to check out. Also remember that split shank designs often do not sit flush with a wedding band - just something to keep in mind with that design.

ERD (Engagement Rings Direct) is another vendor that sells both branded and generic cushions.
DBL (Diamonds by Lauren) carries both branded cushions and generic cushions.

Take some time to weigh your options. If you decide that the Brellia is the cut for you, that's great. But I think that your girlfriend's (and your) preferences are broad enough, that it's worth seeing what else is out there in your budget.

 

[Lula]

I know you said that your girlfriend showed you some styles she liked a while ago. You may want to find out if her tastes have changed since then. Also, what size finger does she have? A halo may be a better choice (and a split shank) depending on the size of her finger.

I really don't think she feels strongly for any certain style. If she did, she'd make it clear to me. Apart from a few definite dislikes (yellow gold, certain cuts), I think she's pretty open to whatever I think works for her.

I'm not sure of her finger size. I'll have to sneak away one of her rings or size it in her sleep. She's got pretty small hands, probably about a 5 or 5.5.

Yeah, it would be helpful to know her ring size. If she's a size 5 or 5.5, a .71 cushion will look considerably larger on her hand than it would on someone with a size 6.5 or 7.0 or 7.5 finger.