Advice on Custom Plat 950 Ruthenium Setting

[jetblast2k]

I am finding it very difficult to find a jeweler who can make a custom setting for me in Plat 950-Ruthenium. I have seen a few jewelers in NYC, and all of them have told me there is only the standard 950 plat and there is no difference in what the platinum is mixed with. I know this is not true.

I have two questions:

1) Does anyone know of a skilled designer/craftsman in the NYC area that can make me a custom ring in Plat 950 Ru (or possibly Plat 900 Iridium)? I don't want this to be an experiment for them, so I'd like someone that is experienced with this allow. Also, I need the ring completed within 14 days. (I have the stones and a rough drawing of the ring design ready)

2) One of the jewelers, while he did not know there were different plat alloys, said the he can find a manufacturer that uses Plat 950-Ru. He has never designed a ring or done a setting with this alloy, so I am a bit hesitant to go with him (but he is the only one that may be able to get it for me). So I'd like to know if the ring design (three stone with center diamond and two sapphire sides) and setting require adjustments or different handling based on the type of alloy used? Things like if the prongs need to be designed thicker, if the setting requires putting extra force on stones, etc?

I appreciate any help on this. Thanks!

 

[proto]

Ruthenium is not the best alloy to do a custom cast, unless you want a handmade ring.

If you want to go the CAD route, I think you are better off asking for 90/10.

 

[jetblast2k]

Ruthenium is not the best alloy to do a custom cast, unless you want a handmade ring.

Proto, could you please explain why this is?

 

[davidsbfly]

ERD is making my ring and I asked them to make with Plat 900 Iridium. They normally do 950 but I think they will use whatever mix you prefer.

 

[WillyDiamond]

+1 on above post

 

[alene]

Steven Kirsch works with Plat/Ru, though it won't be CAD and it won't be done in 14 days most likely.

 

[proto]

Ruthenium is not the best alloy to do a custom cast, unless you want a handmade ring.

Proto, could you please explain why this is?

they prefer better flowing metals like platinum/cobalt or platinum/iridium for casting work.

Im not a metalsmith, but did my fair bit of research when looking for a specific platinum alloy.

you should ask whiteflash -- they can do both 90/10 and Pt/Ru.

Not sure if you want someone local though

 

[heididdl]

I am finding it very difficult to find a jeweler who can make a custom setting for me in Plat 950-Ruthenium. I have seen a few jewelers in NYC, and all of them have told me there is only the standard 950 plat and there is no difference in what the platinum is mixed with. I know this is not true.

I have two questions:

1) Does anyone know of a skilled designer/craftsman in the NYC area that can make me a custom ring in Plat 950 Ru (or possibly Plat 900 Iridium)? I don't want this to be an experiment for them, so I'd like someone that is experienced with this allow. Also, I need the ring completed within 14 days. (I have the stones and a rough drawing of the ring design ready)

2) One of the jewelers, while he did not know there were different plat alloys, said the he can find a manufacturer that uses Plat 950-Ru. He has never designed a ring or done a setting with this alloy, so I am a bit hesitant to go with him (but he is the only one that may be able to get it for me). So I'd like to know if the ring design (three stone with center diamond and two sapphire sides) and setting require adjustments or different handling based on the type of alloy used? Things like if the prongs need to be designed thicker, if the setting requires putting extra force on stones, etc?

I appreciate any help on this. Thanks!

May I ask why you are only interested in this mix. is it the color, the durability ... What is the benefit. I only know about plat ird as this is what is written in my grand mothers engagement ring. Please share some details thanks

 

[jetblast2k]

Thanks all. I wanted Plat 950 Ruthenium because it is supposed to be very strong and scratch, bend, and dent resistant. But, as some of you have pointed out, it seems like I may be better off with Plat 900 Iridium. I don't want the sapphire side stone to get damaged from any extra pressure the plat ruthenium would require and it seems like Plat 900 Iridium would be strong and wear resistant as well.

I prefer to work locally so I can meet the jeweler and explain my ring design better. I'll give ERD and Steven Kirsch a call.

The jeweler I am working with, that got me the stones, has a designer that can create a CAD for me but does not have a caster that can let me choose an alloy. In case the other sources can not work with my time frame, does anyone know of a high quality caster that can do plat 900 Iridium?

 

[artdecolover71]

Your time frame is going to be tough for most jewelers- I would start calling around ASAP!

 

[OoohShiny]

I found this while looking for info on different platinum alloys, was quite interesting

http://www.platinumguild.com/files/pdf/V13N3_features_benefits.pdf

http://www.pricescope.com/journal/overview_common_alloys_used_jewelry


1.Platinum-iridium
2.Platinum-ruthenium
3.Platinum-cobalt

 

[jetblast2k]

Thanks all! I decided to go with ERD here in NYC and just got the final ring yesterday. They make all of their rings in Plat 950 Ruthenium unless requested otherwise. I worked with Chris Anadiotis, who did an amazing job taking my custom design from inception to reality in only 9 days!!

 

[OoohShiny]

Thanks all! I decided to go with ERD here in NYC and just got the final ring yesterday. They make all of their rings in Plat 950 Ruthenium unless requested otherwise. I worked with Chris Anadiotis, who did an amazing job taking my custom design from inception to reality in only 9 days!!

Cool!

But I don't seem to be able to see the pics...?

lol

 

[jetblast2k]

Want my girlfriend to be the first to see it Will post a pic next week.

 

[OoohShiny]

lol

Fair enough I hope it goes well, let us know her reaction!

 

[davidsbfly]

So did you end up getting the Plat 950 Ruthenium mix instead of the Plat 900 Iridium? Mine was supposed to be the Plat 900 Iridium as requested and I just received my ring today! I love it, but I did notice the stamp inside says PT950, so I am assuming that the mix they used is the Plat 950 Ruthenium mix...I hope it doesn't mean that it will eventually turn grey

 

[diamondseeker2006]

So did you end up getting the Plat 950 Ruthenium mix instead of the Plat 900 Iridium? Mine was supposed to be the Plat 900 Iridium as requested and I just received my ring today! I love it, but I did notice the stamp inside says PT950, so I am assuming that the mix they used is the Plat 950 Ruthenium mix...I hope it doesn't mean that it will eventually turn grey

The plat/ruthenium is actually harder than the 900plat/iridium, so it certainly will not turn gray sooner. But the key to keeping it in great shiny condition is to take good care of it and take it off when doing dishes, house or yard work, working out, etc. I have both alloys and both have held up very well for me.

 

[davidsbfly]

So did you end up getting the Plat 950 Ruthenium mix instead of the Plat 900 Iridium? Mine was supposed to be the Plat 900 Iridium as requested and I just received my ring today! I love it, but I did notice the stamp inside says PT950, so I am assuming that the mix they used is the Plat 950 Ruthenium mix...I hope it doesn't mean that it will eventually turn grey

The plat/ruthenium is actually harder than the 900plat/iridium, so it certainly will not turn gray sooner. But the key to keeping it in great shiny condition is to take good care of it and take it off when doing dishes, house or yard work, working out, etc. I have both alloys and both have held up very well for me.

Oh that is good news!! My last e-ring was PT900 and it stayed so super shiny and was whiter in color I think, but where I don't have any smooth areas of just metal showing I am hoping that it wouldn't matter anyway

 

[davidsbfly]

I received confirmation from Mark that my ring is indeed the 90/10 IR mix! Yay!

 

[OoohShiny]

So did you end up getting the Plat 950 Ruthenium mix instead of the Plat 900 Iridium? Mine was supposed to be the Plat 900 Iridium as requested and I just received my ring today! I love it, but I did notice the stamp inside says PT950, so I am assuming that the mix they used is the Plat 950 Ruthenium mix...I hope it doesn't mean that it will eventually turn grey

I received confirmation from Mark that my ring is indeed the 90/10 IR mix! Yay!

I'm no expert...


... but shouldn't the ring be hallmarked and stamped correctly or else it's not 'legal'?

Ultimately I guess it doesn't matter if you never plan to sell the ring, but if you ever need to get it sized up then the different mixes might need different 'fillers', and if they give you the wrong one because it's stamped incorrectly...

 

[davidsbfly]

When I had asked Mark in an email about the ring being stamped PT950, I had already told him that even though it wasn't the metal mix I had requested, it didn't matter because I didn't want the ring recast. I love it too much! I just wanted him to confirm that the 5% in the mix was indeed Ruthenium, since that was the other desirable mix for me. He sent back a response stating that it was 90/10 and the shop didn't have the stamp for this breakdown of metal and that they were tremendously busy, and then when I send my ring back that they would stamp it accordingly.
My ring is supposed to be an eternity with diamonds all the way around the shank, but we were unsure of the size, so they made it in a size 6 and left a space at the bottom with no diamonds just incase I needed to have the ring sized down. I am going to keep it at the size 6 and now have to send it back to have them finish off the ring by adding the rest of the diamonds. I am also having them make my wedding band at the same time, so I certainly hope that they do know the exact metal that was used so the wedding band metal matches!