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Have you really got an Alexandrite? Read this first!

LD

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Over the years, we’ve seen quite a high number of threads from people who have either inherited or bought a ring that is purported to be an Alexandrite OR a Russian Alexandrite. Unfortunately, most of these threads end up with confirmation they have (usually) synthetic corundum laced with vanadium to produce the colour changing properties. Unfortunately even from the turn of the century, which surprises many people, synthetic corundum was used in place of genuine gemstones. The science of imitating Alexandrite has of course advanced and flux grown Alexandrite is very common (and looks very much like the real thing) and also Czochralski Alexandrite that tends to be quite teal looking in daylight although much less common can be found.

To put it into perspective, especially when looking at Russian Alexandrite, only 2,000 kilos of rough were mined in the Urals in the 1800s. When you think how much is lost in the faceting process, you can see that it wouldn’t have been a gem that was easy to get hold of! To compare, from the same mine came around 20,000 kilos of Emeralds

Since the original find in Russia, other sources of Alexandrite have been found in Brazil, India, Madagascar, Tanzania, Australia and Myanmar. None of these finds have been long lived or plentiful but some beautiful examples have been found certainly in Brazil, Tanzania and India. In 1987 in Brazil there was a find at Minas Gerais that lasted around 4 months, the total .mined weight was around 50kgs. The one thing all the finds from around the world have in common is that the Alexandrite must be green in daylight (perhaps with a secondary of blue, brown or grey) moving to a pinky-mauve in the evenings. Although I have seen red flashes in some Alexandrite at night, I’ve never seen one change to “red” and with the exception of the Timo Hammid Alexandrite, I don’t know that one exists (and I don’t know anybody who has seen that gem in real life or whether the photograph of it is accurate or not).

So what are the warning signs to look for?

1. How big is the gem? If it’s a big one then start thinking you’re either going to be very wealthy OR (more likely) that it’s synthetic.

2. Are there inclusions? If it’s too clean, you need to start thinking synthetic again. Alexandrite is a Type II gemstone which means that inclusions are expected in the gemstone. Of course there are eye clean ones available but these will cost you much much much more than one with inclusions!

3. If there are inclusions, what do they look like? In synthetics you can often see small dust like particles, gas bubbles, curved striations or even feathers.

4. If the gem isn’t green in daylight and then a pinky/purple at night it’s definitely not a natural Alexandrite. The only exception to this is a poor quality Alexandrite – these can be khaki/brownish during the day and move to an orangey sort of colour in the evening.

5. If you pick up your normal camera and take a photo of the gem in daylight and the picture resembles what you see with your eyes (ie a green gemstone) then you’re either a very talented photographer OR the gem you have is not Alexandrite. Due to the way the gem reacts, it’s virtually impossible to photograph accurately. Even with natural Alexandrite, the gem will photograph as a purple colour (even though you’re looking at a green gem and it’s poor quality and you’ve never seen it colour change)!

6. What’s the cut like? Old stones will not have precision or modern day faceting (unless they’ve been recut). Typically up until about 10-15 years ago, the majority of Alexandrite was cut to preserve weight so you’ll often see wonky culets, lopsided cuts etc. Of course there are much better examples on the market but these will be expensive.

7. Lastly, the old chestnut it’s a “Russian” Alexandrite. If somebody sells you one like this then ask for PROOF ie a lab report. Do not accept their word. There are so few on the market, if any. Unfortunately the word “Russian” is mis-used for sales purposes and, in some cases, to drive up the selling price by unscrupulous sellers. Labs can sometimes identify locality for Alexandrite but not always. If the gem doesn’t have a report from a reputable gem lab do not accept that it’s Russian even if the seller’s grandmother was called Ekatarina and only moved to the US in 1902 or whatever!

8. One test (but it’s not conclusive on its own) is to look at the Refractive Index of the gem. Alexandrite should be 1.741-1.760.

Very few gemologists have been lucky enough to see Russian Alexandrite in any quantity whatsoever and from that location the gem is so rare that a huge proportion of gemologists won’t have seen any at all. They may well have seen Alexandrite from other locations though. Labs also cannot always determine provenance and buyers need to be aware. Typically however Labs have seen Alexandrite from other locations so will be able to give you a good idea if there are any doubts.

The value of Alexandrite is primarily in the strength of colour change, the size, the clarity and location (unless verified Russian) doesn’t really play much of a part in the equation. A good Alexandrite is going to fetch top Dollar and that’s the reason why this gem is often mis-sold. Buyer beware!

Please click here to see a natural alexandrite and how it changes colour: http://youtu.be/f86t50LoEL0

Think about this when you jeweller tells you that you've just bought a Russian Alexandrite (or even an Alexandrite) - Even labs get it wrong! http://online.barrons.com/article/SB50001424052970203511504576329081143859922.html?mod=googlenews_barrons#articleTabs_article%3D1

Photo 1 - pictures of synethic Alex (courtesy of David Weinberg)

Photo 2 - pictures of natural Alexandrite on www.multicolour.com showing the difference in quality and colour change

Disclaimer: The above is merely from my experience as a collector of this gemstone for over 20 years. If any of the above is incorrect, please feel free to say and also add any comments you feel may be helpful!

synthetic_alex_courtesy_of_david_weinberg.jpg

alex_loose_gemstone_comparison.jpg
 

chrono

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Thank you for the timely and well written post on alexandrite. :appl:
 

minousbijoux

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As usual, good job LD. Just think how much time you would have had to spare if you wrote and posted this years ago!

One question for you: the examples of real alex in the second photo from Multicolour imply that the "real thing" are much more muted - less saturated and with less dramatic color change...can you address this?

Thank you!
 

iLander

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Fascinating and wonderful post, LD! :appl:

I loved reading it, and this part especially intrigues me:

5. If you pick up your normal camera and take a photo of the gem in daylight and the picture resembles what you see with your eyes (ie a green gemstone) then you’re either a very talented photographer OR the gem you have is not Alexandrite. Due to the way the gem reacts, it’s virtually impossible to photograph accurately. Even with natural Alexandrite, the gem will photograph as a purple colour (even though you’re looking at a green gem and it’s poor quality and you’ve never seen it colour change)!

The concept that something is essentially different to my eyes than what it might actually be, is mind-blowing. Which is real? Do my eyes lie? Or the camera? Fascinating! Plus, I feel a bit better about not being able to show the purple of my color shift sapphire in a photo.

Color change stones are fascinating, and I never would have learned about them if I hadn't joined PS!

Thanks, LD! :wavey:
 

soberguy

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Nice work!
 

LD

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minousbijoux|1347554593|3267544 said:
As usual, good job LD. Just think how much time you would have had to spare if you wrote and posted this years ago!

One question for you: the examples of real alex in the second photo from Multicolour imply that the "real thing" are much more muted - less saturated and with less dramatic color change...can you address this?

Thank you!

Mmmmm interesting point Minou. Of course you have some well saturated alex and some less so - I had the photos to hand (above) to show how the daylight and incandescent colours to mix but they're not really a good representation of what a great Alex looks like! Sorry, I should have been clearer on that point. The better the saturation, the higher the price! I've just done a search on www.multicolour.com (only because they usually have the largest amount of Alex for sale) and found the one in the photo below which is their highest priced Alex at the moment. To give you an indication of how much prices have risen for Alex, I bought my pear (below) which is 3.06ct and probably has the same saturation a number of years ago for roughly half the price!

alex_for_sale_with_multicolour.jpg
 

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LD

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iLander|1347554685|3267548 said:
Fascinating and wonderful post, LD! :appl:

I loved reading it, and this part especially intrigues me:

5. If you pick up your normal camera and take a photo of the gem in daylight and the picture resembles what you see with your eyes (ie a green gemstone) then you’re either a very talented photographer OR the gem you have is not Alexandrite. Due to the way the gem reacts, it’s virtually impossible to photograph accurately. Even with natural Alexandrite, the gem will photograph as a purple colour (even though you’re looking at a green gem and it’s poor quality and you’ve never seen it colour change)!

The concept that something is essentially different to my eyes than what it might actually be, is mind-blowing. Which is real? Do my eyes lie? Or the camera? Fascinating! Plus, I feel a bit better about not being able to show the purple of my color shift sapphire in a photo.

Color change stones are fascinating, and I never would have learned about them if I hadn't joined PS!

Thanks, LD! :wavey:

iLander - I completely feel your pain! I have tried EVERYTHING to get them to show their true colours but I can't! I'm sure Kenny and his photography skills would be able to but .............. I gave up years ago. Colour change gemstones are phenomenal and rock but they are completely camera shy!
 

tanzelf

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LD, Amazing post!! Very well done! :appl: It is extremely hard to photograph the true colors of alexandrite, that is why I always have my sister photograph my gems because she is a photographer. She has become very skilled at it because I am always asking her to photograph them, but often, no camera can show the true way a colored stone looks. Color change stones are the hardest. I actually have a color changing demantoid that is impossible to photograph. In no way can it ever capture the rainbows/fire I see or the true colors. I know your post took a lot of effort and will be very helpful to many people. Thanks! ;))
 

Arkteia

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Old Russian alexandrites were mined out long before the revolution. Some of them left Russia with Russian gentry, some were sold by the Bolsheviks through Armand Hammer to the West. Most of them are in private collections and almost impossible to find. Most of the alexes mined in the Ural mountains today are included. Also, official control over their export is very tight. An Idar-Oberstein company was selling a Russian alex several years ago but the price was steep.

Brazilian alexandrites may be stunning but the majority of them are poorly cut. I saw one well-cut cushion stone and it was truly to die for. The best alex I ever saw.

LD, your stones are real beauties!
 

T L

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Excellent write up LD. :appl:
 

diamondringlover

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Excellent write up!!! I find alexandrite quite fascinating...mine is only a lab created square emerald cut, it goes from a dark teal green to a royal purple and I just love it....I would love to have a real one some day :wink2:
 

JewelFreak

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Great info, LD. Thanks for taking the time to write. (Your alex is gorgeous.)

--- Laurie
 

Starzin

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I can only echo what's been said - thank you again for all the (hard won) information, knowledge and experience.

I think this deserves to be another CS information sticky. :))
 

JaneSmith

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Thank you LD, this is excellent information. Now I want an Alex! Maybe I'll start with a lab one like diamondrnglover until I win the lottery. :D
 

pandabee

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Never have I ever seen such gorgeous color-changing stones!! Thanks for the informative write-up...now I got an itch.. :naughty:
 

LD

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Pandabee / JaneSmith

If you venture into Alex world, make sure you buy from reputable dealers and ensure you get a lab report. Make sure there's a good returns policy also. Unfortunately it's likely you'll have to kiss quite a few frogs until your prince (or princess!) comes along!
 

pandabee

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LD|1354043619|3316646 said:
Pandabee / JaneSmith

If you venture into Alex world, make sure you buy from reputable dealers and ensure you get a lab report. Make sure there's a good returns policy also. Unfortunately it's likely you'll have to kiss quite a few frogs until your prince (or princess!) comes along!

Noted! Thanks for bestowing all your extremely helpful knowledge to us here! :))
 

Art Nouveau

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LD: Thank you for the very informative post. I have seen a synthetic alexandrite made of color change synthetic corundum. It is just as you described. The color change is not as dramatic as a real alexandrite. It is not green to red, but bluish purple to reddish purple. My sister received it as a gift from an aunt. It is a huge knuckle ring, probably over 10 carats. My aunt gave it to my sister for 'protection' because she thought it can be used to knock out somebody. My aunt received the ring as a gift from a relative visiting from Saigon back in the 1950s. The size is a big 'give away' that it is not a real alexandrite. Even a rich relative will not give away a small fortune. Examination with a loupe showed bubbles and curve striations typical of synthetic corundum.

AN
 

JewelFreak

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Art Nouveau|1385366703|3562406 said:
My sister received it as a gift from an aunt. It is a huge knuckle ring, probably over 10 carats. My aunt gave it to my sister for 'protection' because she thought it can be used to knock out somebody.
AN
:lol: Good aunt you've got! I like her without having met her!
 

chrono

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Rhett|1385346920|3562309 said:
http://www.multicolour.com/detail/?-1955732141
is this one ok?

Rhett,
It is best to start a new thread with your question because this is a knowledge / learning thread and your question is bound to get "lost" with few responses if buried here.
 

RAW30

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Hi:)
Is there anything that resembles a two phase inclusion in synthetic alex?
 

Marlow

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:appl: :dance: :appl:

Super!!!! PERFECT!!!!

Thank you LD!!!
 

jennilynn666

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Hi LD!

I was wondering if you would be able to give me some direction, I recently acquired a ring (possibly alexandrite) from my grandmothers estate, I took to a local "jeweler" to look at and as soon as he put in in his hand he determined that based on the size of the stone that it is synthetic, he failed to look at it under the scope before making this determination ...... the thing is, my grandmother was not only very well to do but she also had exquisite taste in jewlery.

I have attached pictures for you to look at, the closest I could get to capturing the green color is in the one picture, however, it is much more green and less gingerale in person!... I was wondering if you know of anyone in the central Alberta (Canada)region thats qualified to look more closely at this piece as I'm not comfortable sending it away or leaving it with someone that I don't know (fear of a stone swap). also, is there any technique I could use to try and capture the beautiful green that it goes in natural light?

A couple of my concerns are 1. The size and 2. the clarity, I can't see ANY inclusions with the naked eye and in the right light it does look clear as glass :$ I know that alex stones this large are extrememly rare and that also concerns me.

Thanks for any input you may have!

ring_137.jpg

ring_138.jpg

ring_139.jpg

ring_140.jpg
 

LD

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Hi Jennilynn666

I apologise for not seeing your question before but I don't frequent the forum much these days.

Firstly your ring is lovely (I'm a sucker for a marquise cut!) so whatever it turns out to be it's gorgeous and an heirloom with sentimental value. From everything you've said, I'm leaning away from it being an Alex and thinking more that it's a synthetic vanadium laced corundum. Having said that, I can't say that with complete surety because your photos do certainly have a "look" of Alex about them. What makes me hesitate and move away from Alex are all the same reasons you've picked up on (a) size (b) lack of inclusions (c) the fact that you've been able to photograph the green and also the very very purple colour in the photo with your feet! That amethyst strong purple is never a colour you see in Alex.

One thing it's important to note is that synthetic corundum was never cheap to buy and in fact is still sought after. So even if it's not an Alex it's not a cheap ring either. In terms of a lab swapping it out? That's highly unlikely if you use the main lab for coloured gemstones. Don't forget tons and tons and tons of gemstones are sent to labs every day and if there was any suggestion of swapping out (with the big labs) they wouldn't stay in business for very long. In terms of value, if this is an Alex it will of course be a valuable ring but it still won't be in the realms of some of the huge sapphires or rubies that get sent to the same labs. Many forum members use labs regularly and if you're in the US they'll be able to advise on the safest way to send your ring to the lab (sorry I'm not in the US so can't help with that)!
 

DaisyAndy

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Hi, I recently got a ring and earrings from my grandmother also... They're supposed to be alexandrite but I doubt it. The only thing I know it's that she got it on Mexico. I still love them and find them gorgeous! Will you give me your opinion?

2014-09-23_12.jpg

2014-09-23_0.jpg
 

Starzin

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Hi DaisyAndy
This is really what we call a learning thread and you would be better off starting a "New Topic" (button top left of this forum) devoted to your stones so that a few people can offer opinions.
 

DaisyAndy

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Oh, thank you very much! I will do so...
 

LD

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Ella - apologies - I've reported this thread by accident as I wanted to ask whether it would be possible to have this as a sticky as it's a thread that is often referred and linked to?

So I'm not actually reporting myself but I will go and stand in the corner for 5 minutes! x
 
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