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3+ carat search asscher/pear/oval? Help!

petrock<3

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
686
I’m on the hunt for a 3 ct stone to put in a simple platinum bezel.
Settings like these.
At first I wanted a pear but became over whelmed trying to find a well cut one. At first I thought MMD were the wild Wild West and I wasn’t going to get a premium cut stone. But now I’m learning that great cutters are working with them. I should have come to PS initially!
So my focus now is getting a perfect cut. I’m thinking about the new HeritageAsscher from Distinctive Gems, as well as the Heritage Oval. Also possibly the Octavia but not sure if that’s being done right now on MMD?
I love the Asscher shape but you do lose size and I have long size 7 fingers and want coverage. So that’s where the heritage oval comes in. I love the faceting and it’s closer to a pear but better performance.
For the asscher I like the look of a big ol’simple ice cube on the finger and I’m not sure if a 3 ct is going to have that appearance on my big hands.
I’m all over the place and if anyone has some advice I’d appreciate it!
Mainly trying to work out what shape and if anyone has pics of these cuts, or just any advice.
Initially I was looking around $15,000 to $18,000 for the budget but willing to up it to $20,000 for a better cut.
Thank you!
 

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Last edited:

elizat

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
2,980
Hi, have you gone and tried on rings anywhere? I would go try on natural diamond rings, because that's what you'll probably find in the sizes you want. Somewhere like Tiffany should have an asscher, an oval and a pear, in a large size. If you live near NYC or LA, or Chicago, you have other options as well for stores. But, first, I'd go try on and take a lot of pictures. Think about it. Once you think you have it down to x or y shape, if you still aren't convinced, order a CZ ring of the same size, from Amazon or Berricle, to wear around the house.

The performance difference between an asscher or pear or oval is very different. It's also a different look.

Octavia is being done in MMD, but I think it's probably going to be pretty expensive. One was cut and you'll find it in this forum, but I think it was around 2 ct and over your budget, if I remember. Take a search and you should find it.

The heritage oval is a very pretty option and quite pretty. I also like the asscher idea. The inventory for pears of that size, even in natural diamonds, is hard to find one that's nicely cut. That will likely be a bit harder.
 

petrock<3

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
686
I also want to add that I was messaging with Jonathan at Distinctive Gems yesterday and he was very very helpful. So I’m going to work out my issues here before I take up too much of his time haha! I hadn’t seen the ovals yet and they seem stunning.
 

petrock<3

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
686
Hi, have you gone and tried on rings anywhere? I would go try on natural diamond rings, because that's what you'll probably find in the sizes you want. Somewhere like Tiffany should have an asscher, an oval and a pear, in a large size. If you live near NYC or LA, or Chicago, you have other options as well for stores. But, first, I'd go try on and take a lot of pictures. Think about it. Once you think you have it down to x or y shape, if you still aren't convinced, order a CZ ring of the same size, from Amazon or Berricle, to wear around the house.

The performance difference between an asscher or pear or oval is very different. It's also a different look.

Octavia is being done in MMD, but I think it's probably going to be pretty expensive. One was cut and you'll find it in this forum, but I think it was around 2 ct and over your budget, if I remember. Take a search and you should find it.

The heritage oval is a very pretty option and quite pretty. I also like the asscher idea. The inventory for pears of that size, even in natural diamonds, is hard to find one that's nicely cut. That will likely be a bit harder.

Thank you, that’s a really good idea. It’s really hard to do all this online.
I know when I’ve looked at diamonds previously I like the pear shape on my hand best. But if it’s a dud I’m not going to like it.
Ok yes I saw the Octavia cut and I especially loved the baby pink color!! I didn’t see the price. I love the Octavia but figured probably wouldn’t be an option.
Thanks for your thoughts!
 

m1918

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Oct 10, 2018
Messages
114
Trying on rings is a great idea and going to Tiffany's is fun!

I'd also take a look at Diamonds by Lauren, they've got some beautiful MMDs in the shapes and sizes you're looking for!
 

petrock<3

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
686
Trying on rings is a great idea and going to Tiffany's is fun!

I'd also take a look at Diamonds by Lauren, they've got some beautiful MMDs in the shapes and sizes you're looking for!

Ok thanks I will look!
 

Cerulean

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
Messages
2,190
I'd for sure try rings on. I was all about cushion cuts until I saw them on my hand. The shape was...not flattering :lol: - even though they look FAB on so many other PSers!

If your heart is set on a pear, I think you'll eventually want one, even if you get a special stone in the meantime...
 

petrock<3

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
686
I’ve been browsing the forums and I saw some talk about bezels being bad for light return?
This throws my whole plan off if that’s so. I love that clean look and if I go with an asscher it adds that little bit of oomph to the size. I’m not looking to do a halo again.

Thanks!!
 

elizat

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
2,980
I’ve been browsing the forums and I saw some talk about bezels being bad for light return?
This throws my whole plan off if that’s so. I love that clean look and if I go with an asscher it adds that little bit of oomph to the size. I’m not looking to do a halo again.

Thanks!!

No, I think that that is more anecdotal. If you have a well-cut stone it should not be an issue. Sometimes it may lighten up a stone by removing the bezel and I have experienced that, but with only smaller stones. Also, it may have frankly been in my head. Do some more looking on that, because generally speaking the setting should have no impact on that.
 

petrock<3

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
686
I went down to the diamond district today to see what various 3 ct stones look like. Unfortunately in Pittsburgh there weren’t many 3 ct’s around.
I did see a couple ovals and I do like the shape a lot in person, and the finger coverage was just what I was looking for. So that was a positive.

Also, I came across some videos of old mine cuts and really like those too. I don’t love the shape as much as the way the facets are. I think the faceting is mesmerizing! So what to do about that lol!
 

Slick1

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
3,255
I went down to the diamond district today to see what various 3 ct stones look like. Unfortunately in Pittsburgh there weren’t many 3 ct’s around.
I did see a couple ovals and I do like the shape a lot in person, and the finger coverage was just what I was looking for. So that was a positive.

Also, I came across some videos of old mine cuts and really like those too. I don’t love the shape as much as the way the facets are. I think the faceting is mesmerizing! So what to do about that lol!

To answer your question regarding OMC vs pear...how about an antique cut pear. Rare but oh so gorgeous!!
 

monipod

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
844
I can only comment on Asschers and ovals. I loooooove Asschers but I'm not gonna lie. They do face up small. The Asscher in my avatar is 1.62ct but my bench was surprised and it does face up more like a generous 1ct MRB. Your 3ct Asscher will look more like a 2.5ct MRB.

Having said that, if you put your Asscher into a bezel setting (or even semi-bezel) then you can visually make it look bigger. I set mine into a wider, milgrained collet and it looks bigger to the eye :D

I suspect you will get better light return with a prong setting but that's not to say you won't get nice sparkles with a bezel. I spent a good month enjoying my Asscher unset and oh the fire... It's a myth that step-cuts don't give fire and amazing sparkles. Unfortunately, once set, there's less but it's still very pretty. The best thing about step-cuts is that on cloudy days, you can really appreciate the steps even if the fireworks aren't on display :) A bezel set will really accentuate that.

So... Asschers are awesome but it depends on your objectives and settings preferences. For bang for buck, you can't go wrong with an oval. A 3ct oval will look much bigger than the same size Asscher.
 

petrock<3

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
686
I can only comment on Asschers and ovals. I loooooove Asschers but I'm not gonna lie. They do face up small. The Asscher in my avatar is 1.62ct but my bench was surprised and it does face up more like a generous 1ct MRB. Your 3ct Asscher will look more like a 2.5ct MRB.

Having said that, if you put your Asscher into a bezel setting (or even semi-bezel) then you can visually make it look bigger. I set mine into a wider, milgrained collet and it looks bigger to the eye :D

I suspect you will get better light return with a prong setting but that's not to say you won't get nice sparkles with a bezel. I spent a good month enjoying my Asscher unset and oh the fire... It's a myth that step-cuts don't give fire and amazing sparkles. Unfortunately, once set, there's less but it's still very pretty. The best thing about step-cuts is that on cloudy days, you can really appreciate the steps even if the fireworks aren't on display :) A bezel set will really accentuate that.

So... Asschers are awesome but it depends on your objectives and settings preferences. For bang for buck, you can't go wrong with an oval. A 3ct oval will look much bigger than the same size Asscher.

Thanks monipod... I’m leaning towards not an asscher right now, because I think the look I’m going for would require a 4-5 ct asscher and that’s out of my budget! Could be the next upgrade though!!
So maybe something else with more impact that fits into my budget.
You’re right an antique pear would be lovely- how to find?!
 

Ada Diamonds CEO

Rough_Rock
Trade
Joined
Jan 8, 2020
Messages
81
I'm buying every single well made ~3ct asscher, oval, and pear I can source right now from all the producers I know.

As you may have found, the demand is far outstripping the supply in all three shapes, as lab grown diamonds grow in very different shapes than mined diamonds and the shapes you are seeking are very inefficient shapes to cut from well structured CVD and HPHT diamonds.

IE most rough that would yield a nice 3ct pear would also yield a 3.5ct round or a 4ct cushion, so that is what is cut by financially motivated manufacutrers.

All the best with your search!
 

petrock<3

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
686
I'm buying every single well made ~3ct asscher, oval, and pear I can source right now from all the producers I know.

As you may have found, the demand is far outstripping the supply in all three shapes, as lab grown diamonds grow in very different shapes than mined diamonds and the shapes you are seeking are very inefficient shapes to cut from well structured CVD and HPHT diamonds.

IE most rough that would yield a nice 3ct pear would also yield a 3.5ct round or a 4ct cushion, so that is what is cut by financially motivated manufacutrers.

All the best with your search!

Oh really! Well that is interesting! Thanks for sharing that insight.
It’s a different world of diamonds and I guess will play by different rules!
 

petrock<3

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
686
Well things took an unexpected turn! I ended up buying a 3.72 round E VS1 ideal from Distinctive Gems.
C33A92E5-C168-4C7D-99E0-505A36268421.jpeg

I was looking at this MC2 setting for the AVC, and when Jon said he had a round that fit the size, color, and cut quality I wanted, I thought well it would look great in the setting I like!

So I’m able to get the look I want for my budget.

So now I’m on to figuring out the setting. This is the inspiration piece but it’s going to be a bit different. I have a lot of pics I’ve been gathering LOL.
 

petrock<3

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
686
C0AD90E8-01C3-437F-8EBB-29DBCE4990A3.jpeg

Here are all the inspiration pics I’ve gathered. I don’t want any stones in the setting.
Brushed/ matte platinum for the basket
And yellow gold for the band also matte

Basically a very subtle floral look.
Not sure how many petals and leaning towards delicate claw prongs.

If you can think of any other inspiration pieces that are similar I would love to see!
Thanks
 

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petrock<3

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
686
I think I’m going for a modified Dahlia setting...
5FD34E4F-5FEE-4682-8B69-1201FC67A2BC.jpeg

Basically like this but probably no stones in the band. Brushed platinum.
I think I just want the center stone to shine.

There are so many gorgeous settings out there it’s hard to choose! But when I think about actually wearing it I think I’m going to want something on the more simple side.
 

lindam1503

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 17, 2018
Messages
99
I just have to tell you I enjoyed reading through your journey and other's input, (love the Asscher in Monipod's avatar), and I think you're going to have one stunning ring!

The Dahlia setting you're leaning towards would be wonderful with that large stone, and yes, I would opt for no stones in the band if I had your gorgeous solitaire.

I hope you post when your project is finished and congratulations!
 

petrock<3

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
686
I just have to tell you I enjoyed reading through your journey and other's input, (love the Asscher in Monipod's avatar), and I think you're going to have one stunning ring!

The Dahlia setting you're leaning towards would be wonderful with that large stone, and yes, I would opt for no stones in the band if I had your gorgeous solitaire.

I hope you post when your project is finished and congratulations!
Thank you! I’m very excited! It took a surprising turn because I never considered rounds. But then after looking at 100s of videos of spinning diamonds lol I realized that I wanted perfect facet symmetry and a lot of sparkle. So rounds and asschers would fit the bill, but the round provides more face up size.
Later on I’ll get the bigger asscher haha! That’s the plan!
 

petrock<3

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
686
Just some data from the stone, if anyone wants to give feedback on it.
I was a little concerned about a 58.5 table, but it looks like the crown and pavilion angles work with that?
A1E19ABC-18A1-4E2B-A477-570FA1DF1049.jpeg
 

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petrock<3

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
686
B26AF997-E679-4E00-911A-C9D96C35C587.jpeg

I might be incorporating some of these elements into the design...
So hard to decide!
 

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petrock<3

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
686
1381F638-3546-41CD-8772-AC64190D1A89.png

More data on the stone
 

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petrock<3

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
686
27D5863D-85EC-45B2-B238-E7DE9BBA7E1E.jpeg

I’m all over the place with the setting
 

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