1920s Mens Platinum and Diamond Ring

[bluelotus]

Hello all,
I haven't had time to post recently as a friend is in a long term hospital/rehab situation and work on my house has kept me busy. . .

I recently stumbled upon an amazing find that I am very excited about. I haven't yet received this ring but expect to during the next week.

As some of you may have read, I purchased a beautiful light yellow early modern round brilliant to copy an art deco ring that I saw at auction. Attempts to work with my local fabricator on the CAD renderings were not satisfying so I started to think that I wanted to simply find a nice antique/vintage ring with original stone intact. Finding nice antique men's rings is not easy, especially with stones that are well cut.

This ring was made by the seller's grandfather who returned from a buying trip to Europe in the 1920s and had the ring made for himself. The diamond was apparently never removed from the setting since the ring was made and is therefor a confirmed vintage stone! Looks to me from photos and some tentative stats from a couple of appraisals over the years to be an early Tolkowsky type ideal. . . very cool! It has been described as 2.17 VS2 H/I . . . about 8.5mm.

In any event, I will sell the light yellow stone. See my posts about it: [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/thoughts-on-this-light-yellow-transitional-early-ideal.201484/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/thoughts-on-this-light-yellow-transitional-early-ideal.201484/[/URL]

Until I have more to share, here is a pic:

 

[MMtwo]

Oh for heavens sake, what a lovely stone! It is a cool transitional blend of allllmost round brilliant but some of the checkerboarding of an OEC. I am far from an expert, but it appeals to me very much and if we judge these old beauties by eye appeal alone, I think you struck gold! Love the story too.

 

[bluelotus]

I would not have given much thought to this flavor of cut if I hadn't bought the light yellow stone. The optics are starkly different from my European cut. . . brighter, flashier, less moody . . . but I like the fact that it still has a chunkiness about it.

 

[needfullshinythings]

Great find Blue !!!! your right about it being difficult to find good quality mens rings, looks like you have hit the jackpot this time though The stone is a stunner but it is also nice to see that the Greek Key design on the shoulders hasn't rubbed too much, gives it a very nice look.

 

[missy]

I really like this stone and ring. Beautiful! Would love to see a handshot when you have the time. Wear in health and happiness.
And wishing your friend the best in his/her recovery and rehab.

 

[Tourmaline]

This stone really reminds me of mine, which is also an early round brilliant.

 

[bluelotus]

Hi Tourmaline,
Do you know the history on yours?

 

[bluelotus]

 

[bluelotus]

 

[MMtwo]

I LOVE that setting, wow!. The front and back engraving is wonderful. It's a beauty.

 

[bluelotus]

Nice setting, eh? I will post better photos when I can. There were probably synthetic calibre cut sapphires on either side which I plan to restore. I think the elongated frame around the diamond could also use some refreshing with a milgrained edge but this is all that I'd consider doing as it looks really nice otherwise.

The ring will be assessed by my appraiser tomorrow so let's see. It was described by the seller as an H/I VS2. From what I understand it is probably impossible to grade the color with any certainty while it's in the setting. I know that the only really accurate way to grade the stone is to unset it but I don't want to do that. The girdle appears to be thin to very thin and I don't want to risk it. What i am curious to know are it's proportions as I realized that it might be similar to Circe's amazing transitional stone (I think she sold it).

 

[bluelotus]

And thank you Missy for your kind regards for my friend!

 

[bluelotus]

This ring is freaking awesome!

 

[kelpie]

That is a keeper for sure! What a find! You don't usually see mens' rings with such fine detail.

 

[bluelotus]

Thanks kelpie! I am so excited to have found it. I am seriously considering restoring what were probably synthetic calibre cut sapphires on either side. Here's another pic if the stone.

 

[bluelotus]

 

[bluelotus]

 

[kroshka]

Bluelotus, that is an awesome awesome ring! What a find! Can't say there is anything that I don't love about it. Wear it in good health

Kroshka

 

[bluelotus]

Thanks! I simply could not have purchased this without all of the great information shared by so many other people who love gems and jewelry.

 

[bluelotus]

Here are some more shots:

 

[bluelotus]

Here are some photos because I can't stop taking them!

 

[gregchang35]

Well done bluelotus on this purchase... i agree with restoring the sapphires in the sides of the ring. it will enhance the vintage feel to this ring. the detail is lovely.

enjoy this ring!

 

[MMtwo]

Did you get a confirmation on the clarity and color?

 

[bluelotus]

Hi MM,
I chose not to have the stone unset for now so the color is not certain. My appraiser thought it could be an I/J.
Clarity is definitely VS. Given the fact that the stone was purchased in Europe in the early 1920s just around the time Tolkowsky published his work I would be curious to know the stats. Depth appears to be 59.3 and table around 53. It's possible this could have been purchased in Antwerp. I find it interesting to see such a fully modern looking stone at such an early confirmed date. I am awaiting more info from the seller and will share.

 

[arkieb1]

I love your new ring it is beautiful, and I agree it is really really difficult to find nice antique men's rings. Your ring could have had created sapphires (which used to cost more than real sapphires) rubies or emeralds in the sides. I think it would look cool with any of these, even diamonds as well!!!!

I'd recommend sending it to someone like Singlestone, they cost a bit more but they do an outstanding job, they just fixed an Antique bracelet for me that no-one else would touch.

 

[bluelotus]

Hi Arkieb1,
Thanks for your post. Yes, I have been in touch with Single Stone and hope to get the ring off to them next week to replace the missing stones. I had thought about side diamonds but I don't want to spend too much on the restoration and my birth stone is sapphire! I wonder why the synthetic was more expensive than natural. . . Heather gave me a quote for cutting synthetic sapphires that I thought was actually quite reasonable so I'll probably go with that. Glad to hear you've had good experience with SS. . . seems that many PSers have had good restoration work done by their bench. I am tempted to have the diamond unset to be certed/graded but really don't wan't to disturb it. I just find it so fascinating to find a more or less modern looking stone in such an early piece of jewelry. It's clear that the LGFs are longer than what Tolkowsky showed but I'd be curious to know what the other stats are and how they compare to the early Tolk ideal parameters. . . table appears to be on the smallish side and the star facets are also small. Whatever the pavilion/crown angle combination is, it sure performs well with no obstruction, no fisheye, and great brilliance at all tilt angles. . . I am reminded of Shipley's history that Gilbertson recounted in "American Cut" where one of his best clients discovered well cut diamonds on a buying trip to Europe.

 

[LightBright]

Blue Lotus, this ring is spectacular!! I wish you could keep both rings, because I love your OEC as well! You you have an amazing eye. Congratulations on this beautiful ring.

 

[bluelotus]

LightBright,
Thanks for the kind words! I had the ring appraised this past week and the stone came in as a low I or J but is most likely a J. It was described as an early Tolkowsky ideal type. Preliminary numbers would seem to suggest TIC to FIC proportions but these are not confirmed. I chose not to have the stone removed from the setting and don't really feel I need to know the exact color grade (but would love to know the angles!). It is the whole untouched package that I find compelling; early example of a modern cut known to have been purchased in the 1920s in either London or Antwerp and in its original setting made by the grandfather of the seller for himself. The fact that it is a beautiful well cut and dynamic stone makes it even better! John Pollard generated some estimated stats on the proportions of the stone using DiamCalc. . . check out another thread I started about measuring the stone in rocky talky.

I don't plan on selling the OEC ring but I haven't yet posted new pics of it because I am not sure if I like the newly remade setting. I purchased another beautiful stone that I had intended on using to copy a deco ring but I was frustrated with disappointing results from the fabricator when I discovered this ring. The story was too wonderful to pass up and the price was very good. . . I have a loupetroop listing on the light yellow diamond but will consign with Love Affair Diamonds.

 

[Circe]

Hi BL! Wowowow! I cannot believe I missed this thread for so long ... that ring is a beauty! I love the Greek key design, I love the faceting on the stone, I LOVE the story ... what a fabulous piece! If you're still looking for a set of replacement sapphires, I know a guy on 47th who specializes in providing refurb stones for Deco era pieces ... no idea where I stuck his card, but if you're interested, ping me through one of my listings.

Nice setting, eh? I will post better photos when I can. There were probably synthetic calibre cut sapphires on either side which I plan to restore. I think the elongated frame around the diamond could also use some refreshing with a milgrained edge but this is all that I'd consider doing as it looks really nice otherwise.

The ring will be assessed by my appraiser tomorrow so let's see. It was described by the seller as an H/I VS2. From what I understand it is probably impossible to grade the color with any certainty while it's in the setting. I know that the only really accurate way to grade the stone is to unset it but I don't want to do that. The girdle appears to be thin to very thin and I don't want to risk it. What i am curious to know are it's proportions as I realized that it might be similar to Circe's amazing transitional stone (I think she sold it).

I think it must be - there's a definite "family resemblance," looking at the pics. These are the numbers I got from Dave Wolf:

Measurements: 8.75 X 8.83 X 5.24
Total Depth: 59.8%
Table: 53.6%
Crown Height: 17.1%
Crown Angle: 36.4%
Pavilion Depth: 41%
Pavilion Angle: 39.4
Star Length: 40.9%
Lower Half Length: 76.5%
Culet: Medium

They fell right into Gilbertson's range for the "ideal" European-cut stones of the Edwardian era. God, I love that book ... so happy to find another admirer!