Why should depth % be greater than table% when buying an EC?

[Emrldlvr]

I’m looking to upgrade my 1.21carat, J, VS2, D 73.1, T 61, 6.64x5.1x3.73 ring. Since I’m really trying to increase the size I’ve been trying to get the biggest measurements. I’ve noticed in those cases the table % is often greater than the depth%. My current ring has a lot of fire in certain lights and I don’t won’t to sacrifice that. If the table % is greater than depth %, what effect is there?

 

[Karl_K]

no not always, a 65% table with a 61% depth could be a kicken stone.
That rule was written for something like a 75% table 65% depth.
I dont like that rule.
When the table size is reasonable and the depth(spread) is reasonable then look at crown height and how well the facets work together.
Depth does not equal spread in step cuts you also have to pay attention to the mm dimensions.
A 69% depth stone could face up much larger in mm than a 65% stone and 2 69% depth stones of the same weight and ratio could be very different sizes.

 

[Emrldlvr]

no not always, a 65% table with a 61% depth could be a kicken stone.
That rule was written for something like a 75% table 65% depth.
I dont like that rule.
When the table size is reasonable and the depth(spread) is reasonable then look at crown height and how well the facets work together.
Depth does not equal spread in step cuts you also have to pay attention to the mm dimensions.
A 69% depth stone could face up much larger in mm than a 65% stone and 2 69% depth stones of the same weight and ratio could be very different sizes.

Thank you again. You replied to a separate post of mine regarding how to maintain fire in an EC. Im really trying to get the biggest measurements I can out of a 1.5-1.7 stone and so I do t want to underestimate the importance of depth. I’ve read posts that reference crown percentage. How do you determine that? In the previous reply to my other post you said to look at a side or 360 view to determine the crown height. So is it just a visible thing or is there a way to determine crown just based off of numbers?

 

[Karl_K]

You can ask for a sarin scan to get the crown height but its not always available.
A picture or video showing the side is the easy way.

 

[Karl_K]

Being in the trade I cant take a screen grab of another vendors video and mark it up so I faked in in DiamCalc a diamond software.
The red arrows point to the girdle its the strait line that goes around the widest part of the stone.
Then you compare it to the top of the stone and crown height is the:
Height above the girdle divided by the width x 100.
So your comparing the height above the girdle to the width of the stone. Or for simular sized stones you can compare them directly.
This one is a bit flat 10%

This one is the good range at 14% in general I prefer this range or higher but sometimes a stone just is so good id go a hair lower.

 

[Karl_K]

A lot of the online videos you can click or touch them and rotate the stone manually and allow you to get a good idea of the ch.

 

[Emrldlvr]

Being in the trade I cant take a screen grab of another vendors video and mark it up so I faked in in DiamCalc a diamond software.
The red arrows point to the girdle its the strait line that goes around the widest part of the stone.
Then you compare it to the top of the stone and crown height is the:
Height above the girdle divided by the width x 100.
So your comparing the height above the girdle to the width of the stone. Or for simular sized stones you can compare them directly.
This one is a bit flat 10%

This one is the good range at 14% in general I prefer this range or higher but sometimes a stone just is so good id go a hair lower.

That helps tremendously! Thanks so much!

 

[Emrldlvr]

A lot of the online videos you can click or touch them and rotate the stone manually and allow you to get a good idea of the ch.

The area above where I placed these arrows on the screenshot would be the crown then? It doesn’t seem very high. Is that correct?

1.50-Carat Emerald Cut Diamond | Blue Nile

www.bluenile.com

 

[Karl_K]

You got it.
That one appears to be in the good range.
If you look at a few different vidoes from the same vendor the flat tops will stand out.

 

[Karl_K]

Here is a flat top:

1.71-Carat Emerald Cut Diamond | Blue Nile

www.bluenile.com

compare it to this one:

1.70-Carat Emerald Cut Diamond | Blue Nile

www.bluenile.com

 

[OoohShiny]

Being in the trade I cant take a screen grab of another vendors video and mark it up so I faked in in DiamCalc a diamond software.
The red arrows point to the girdle its the strait line that goes around the widest part of the stone.
Then you compare it to the top of the stone and crown height is the:
Height above the girdle divided by the width x 100.
So your comparing the height above the girdle to the width of the stone. Or for simular sized stones you can compare them directly.
This one is a bit flat 10%

This one is the good range at 14% in general I prefer this range or higher but sometimes a stone just is so good id go a hair lower.

When does an EC/Asscher become a Carré cut? lol

 

[Emrldlvr]

Here is a flat top:

1.71-Carat Emerald Cut Diamond | Blue Nile

www.bluenile.com

compare it to this one:

1.70-Carat Emerald Cut Diamond | Blue Nile

www.bluenile.com

Oh yes, I’m starting to see it now! Thank you!

 

[Rockdiamond]

I’ve read that if the table is larger than the depth it’s possible the diamond will explode with no warning.

 

[Rockdiamond]

A joke obviously- but the truth is that there are NO rules that work across the board on emerald cuts.
If a buyer is interested in maximizing spread, the likelihood is that you’ll want a stone that’s not too deep.
Table size can be tremendously deceptive. In other words, some flat top emerald cuts actually seem to have smaller tables than they actually do.
So look at the dimensions first, if spread is the goal- then assess the diamond.

 

[Emrldlvr]

You got it.
That one appears to be in the good range.
If you look at a few different vidoes from the same vendor the flat tops will stand out.

So when you say the crown I marked up appears to be in good range, you mean it would probably be above that 10%, or adequate?

 

[Emrldlvr]

A joke obviously- but the truth is that there are NO rules that work across the board on emerald cuts.
If a buyer is interested in maximizing spread, the likelihood is that you’ll want a stone that’s not too deep.
Table size can be tremendously deceptive. In other words, some flat top emerald cuts actually seem to have smaller tables than they actually do.
So look at the dimensions first, if spread is the goal- then assess the diamond.

Thanks, I just wish I could see them in person. Even with the 360 views, they all look pretty beautiful. I’ve been reading too much and my head is starting to spin.

 

[Emrldlvr]

I’ve read that if the table is larger than the depth it’s possible the diamond will explode with no warning.

 

[Rockdiamond]

Please excuse my sarcasm.. ( I was in a mood this morning
There's every reason that people researching will buy into the "numbers game". People want concrete answers - after all, it's a lot of money!
The rotating videos give some information, but it is truly limited.
My advice would be not to shop by table depth numbers- rather use the visual cues that are available ( videos and pics)- and look at the dimensions of the stone

 

[Karl_K]

So when you say the crown I marked up appears to be in good range, you mean it would probably be above that 10%, or adequate?

It's probably in the 14+ range.
I go more by that looks right than exact numbers.
If it looks flat its flat, if it looks reasonable move on to patterns and how the light moves around the stone.
The videos are not the best for this but it is what we have.
Rocking them side to side the way they are in a ring is a much better way to evaluate them.

 

[Emrldlvr]

It's probably in the 14+ range.
I go more by that looks right than exact numbers.
If it looks flat its flat, if it looks reasonable move on to patterns and how the light moves around the stone.
The videos are not the best for this but it is what we have.
Rocking them side to side the way they are in a ring is a much better way to evaluate them.

yes, this is when my current EC really lights up and I LOVE that about it. I just don’t have a trained eye with these videos and it seems like I’m splitting hairs. But each split hair is hundreds to thousands of dollars. They’re all starting to look the same to me in as far as how the light moves around.

I’m thinking the light does NOT move around super well on this stone? It appears very white and the facets don’t pop as well as others I’ve seen maybe? Am I right? I have no idea. Maybe it’s good the stone appears so white and it’s a J color?‍

1.50-Carat Emerald Cut Diamond | Blue Nile

www.bluenile.com

 

[Emrldlvr]

Please excuse my sarcasm.. ( I was in a mood this morning
There's every reason that people researching will buy into the "numbers game". People want concrete answers - after all, it's a lot of money!
The rotating videos give some information, but it is truly limited.
My advice would be not to shop by table depth numbers- rather use the visual cues that are available ( videos and pics)- and look at the dimensions of the stone

I appreciated the sarcasm as my head might explode trying to discern all these things! Im using the numbers to try and get me the biggest measurements in my price range and then I’m trying to use the visuals to see if one performs better than the other, but it’s hard for me to see differences. Or I may see difference but I do t know if they’re good or bad. Also, with the ring on my finger I won’t be looking at it under magnification. I don’t know how the magnified view translates to how it will look to me everyday.

 

[Karl_K]

To help you out more im going to go out on a limb.
The 1.5 I linked notice how it has large dark zones that dont flash hardly at all. Not a good sign.
Notice the 1.7 I posted is much more active similar to your 1.5 pick.

 

[Karl_K]

Until you see it in person your not going to be sure so viewing it lose within your return policy if possible is a good idea.
Then send it back for setting.

 

[Emrldlvr]

To help you out more im going to go out on a limb.
The 1.5 I linked notice how it has large dark zones that dont flash hardly at all. Not a good sign.
Notice the 1.7 I posted is much more active similar to your 1.5 pick.

I’m not seeing a 1.5 you linked? I see a 1.7 and 1.71?

 

[Karl_K]

I’m not seeing a 1.5 you linked? I see a 1.7 and 1.71?

Sorry I had a brain fart, 20 things at once this morning.
The flat top 1.71 is the one with the dark zones.

 

[Emrldlvr]

Until you see it in person your not going to be sure so viewing it lose within your return policy if possible is a good idea.
Then send

Sorry I had a brain fart, 20 things at once this morning.
The flat top 1.71 is the one with the dark zones.

Okay, I think I see what you are talking about. I will look out for that. Thank you so much for all of this information and help! I truly appreciate your time and insight!