Why is platinum more expensive than gold for jewelry?
- Thread starter Mlh
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2011
- Messages
- 6,139
Weightwise there is more platinum in a ring - platinum alloys are 90 or 95% platinum whereas gold alloys are commonly 75% (18 ct) or 58.5% (14 ct). The alloy metal in platinum is commonly ruthenium or iridium, which are both more expensive than the gold alloys (copper and silver, for yellow and rose gold, and those plus some other metals like often nickel or palladium for white gold). Platinum is also harder to work and can require different tools and more expensive manufacturing techniques. And labor is really the bulk of the cost in basically every jewelry item.
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
- Messages
- 5,791
Platinum has a density of 21.45 grams per cubic centimeter (g/cc). A "typical" 14k white gold alloy is about 14 g/cc depending on specific alloys used.
So while you may need the same volume of metal to make a ring, the weight will be very different because of the densities. If you've ever held a platinum piece, you will notice it's heavier for this reason. I personally love the feel of a heavier metal but some prefer a lighter feel.
Also, with platinum it is 90-95% platinum with minimal alloys.
The karat weight of the gold determines the gold percentage. The remaining are alloys with the most common being nickel, copper or zinc all which are cheaper.
FYI, the higher the karat the more yellow for those seeking yellow gold. Consequently you sometimes see people pursue an 18k gold if they like yellow. The downside is gold is soft without the alloys. So 24k is a poor choice for a ring as it would be damaged too easily.
While talking strength, platinum ranks about 3.5 on the mohs scale of hardness. White gold can vary (again because of specific alloys) but range from 2.5 to 4 mohs. What makes platinum unique is how it wears. With gold, when you scratch it then tiny pieces of gold are lost thereby structurally weakening the ring. Platinum gets pushed around but doesn't flake off. During this process of wear the ring naturally develops a patina and remains strong. Because of the give/flex/elasticity of platinum it's sometimes preferred for prongs so they don't shear off upon impact.
Platinum is pure and also hypoallergenic, whereas many people have sensitivities to nickel, copper or zinc. Rhodium plating may mask the reaction as it creates a thin barrier between the skin and irritating alloy metals but it's not perfectly applied for a "watertight" barrier and as it wears there is less of a barrier. If you have a skin sensitivity it's possible to slowly "poison" your skin with any non hypoallergenic product.
It should be noted there are also special alloy mixes of white gold such as palladium. This is what I purchased for my wife. It does not require rhodium plating, is hypoallergenic and remains naturally white. It's not quite as white and shiny as normal white gold but not as dull as platinum. Also, it is stronger than traditional white gold because of the palladium.
Lastly, like any metal type there are special tools and considerations to be made. Gold is far more common. Yet it's harder to find a jeweler to work on palladium than platinum. Still, platinum takes a different level of workmanship than gold.
So while you may need the same volume of metal to make a ring, the weight will be very different because of the densities. If you've ever held a platinum piece, you will notice it's heavier for this reason. I personally love the feel of a heavier metal but some prefer a lighter feel.
Also, with platinum it is 90-95% platinum with minimal alloys.
The karat weight of the gold determines the gold percentage. The remaining are alloys with the most common being nickel, copper or zinc all which are cheaper.
- 24k = 24/24 = 100% gold
- 18k = 18/24 = 75% gold
- 14k = 14/24 = 58.33% gold
- 10k = 10/24 = 41.67% gold
FYI, the higher the karat the more yellow for those seeking yellow gold. Consequently you sometimes see people pursue an 18k gold if they like yellow. The downside is gold is soft without the alloys. So 24k is a poor choice for a ring as it would be damaged too easily.
While talking strength, platinum ranks about 3.5 on the mohs scale of hardness. White gold can vary (again because of specific alloys) but range from 2.5 to 4 mohs. What makes platinum unique is how it wears. With gold, when you scratch it then tiny pieces of gold are lost thereby structurally weakening the ring. Platinum gets pushed around but doesn't flake off. During this process of wear the ring naturally develops a patina and remains strong. Because of the give/flex/elasticity of platinum it's sometimes preferred for prongs so they don't shear off upon impact.
Platinum is pure and also hypoallergenic, whereas many people have sensitivities to nickel, copper or zinc. Rhodium plating may mask the reaction as it creates a thin barrier between the skin and irritating alloy metals but it's not perfectly applied for a "watertight" barrier and as it wears there is less of a barrier. If you have a skin sensitivity it's possible to slowly "poison" your skin with any non hypoallergenic product.
It should be noted there are also special alloy mixes of white gold such as palladium. This is what I purchased for my wife. It does not require rhodium plating, is hypoallergenic and remains naturally white. It's not quite as white and shiny as normal white gold but not as dull as platinum. Also, it is stronger than traditional white gold because of the palladium.
Lastly, like any metal type there are special tools and considerations to be made. Gold is far more common. Yet it's harder to find a jeweler to work on palladium than platinum. Still, platinum takes a different level of workmanship than gold.
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
- Messages
- 5,791
Glad to help.
I might add for those desiring yellow gold, the tint of the same karat can vary from vendor to vendor because of the exact alloys and percentages of those alloys used in their specific alloy mix.
So if you are buying a 14k piece from Vendor A it might be slightly more pale yellow than a 14k piece from Vendor B. There have been various users on this forum that prefer to work with one vendor or another because of such variances.
Also, I should clarify there is a nickel free directive that severely limits the use of nickel within the confines of the EU. So if you are located somewhere in the EU, the white gold alloys will vary from my post above and you will be more friendly to those with nickel allergies.
Nickel Directive - Wikipedia
Unfortunately, the USA does not have such a directive at this time.
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2014
- Messages
- 1,789
Again so true @sledge! Some goldsmiths mix their own gold where I am in the EU. It has happened that I absolutely hated the outcome! I am extremely sensitive to nuances of color plus very allergic. This could be why I have no problem wearing WG studs even heavy ones (since I am in the EU) but my ears start bleeding if I even try to wear YG.
300x240.png)