When is a Shank Too Thin?

[GemView]

Assuming we are talking about a new ring and not a well-worn heirloom, when is a ring's shank too thin? In other words, how thin can a jewelry fabricator go before the lowermost portion of the shank is too delicate by most jewelers’ standards?

Here's the story behind my question: I received in the mail today a ring from a major U.S. manufacturer in 14K white gold. Upon inspecting the ring, I noticed that the bottom of the shank is thinner than the other rings in my jewelry collection. The antique styling of the aforementioned ring necessitated custom sizing, which meant that it took about six weeks before the ring shipped. If it weren't for all the variables involved in custom work and the fact that the manufacturer is out of state, I would most likely opt to send it in for an exchange. But I'm not even sure there is really a problem to fix.

From my vantage point, the shank is out of sight while wearing the ring, so the thinness doesn't concern me from an aesthetic point of view. What I am trying to figure out is whether or not this is a durability concern vs. an intentional design element. One of the reasons I ask is because of the way the inner band is stamped. In the lowermost portion of the inside of the shank—in the same area where the shank narrows to roughly 1.5mm wide—I can identify the manufacturer, but the stamp identifying the alloy is almost entirely "erased". Even when attempting to read it with a loupe, I cannot make it out. It occurred to me, that perhaps the ring was reduced in size before it shipped, thereby causing the shank to thin out. Because the order was placed on the Internet, though, I have no means to compare my ring to others of the same design to see if their shanks would be any thicker.

The very bottom of the shank where the engraving ends is smooth (approx. 1/4 inch across). The smooth portion of the lower shank is about 1.5mm wide, whereas the remainder of the shank appears quite sturdy. (I don't have my digital camera with me, but to describe it a bit, the shank design is typical of engraved vintage reproductions, with a cathedral style upslope around the shoulders).

Although the ring in question is not a Tacori setting, I have read horror stories relating to the irregularities that sometimes plague vintage-style custom order rings. So, on the one hand, I don't want to be overly eager to assume that an exchange would remedy this situation. On the other hand, I don't want to assume that the manufacturer intended for the shank to hover around 1.5mm wide. Assuming the shank really IS too thin, would it be possible to have a local jeweler build up the bottom 1/4 of the shank? If so, what kind of price might I be looking at for 14K white gold? Second to that, is it even possible to have such a small area built up without causing the adjacent engraving to melt?

I would appreciate feedback from anyone who has jewelry fabrication experience. I am also interested in hearing from those who have owned rings that started out with similarly thin shanks. Have they stood the test of time?

 

[JulieN]

It seems to me anything less than 1.3 mm deep for a new ring is too thin.

 

[GemView]

Hi JulieN

,

Funny thing you mention 1.3mm. I used my MM gauge so that I could edit my post to indicate the actual thickness of the bottom portion of the shank rather than the 1.5-2mm range I had guestimated. As it turns out, the shank is just under 1.5mm—1.3 to 1.4mm thick.

I appreciate your input.

 

[GemView]

"…You said that the karat mark was hard to read, even with a loop.. This is not great since it means that the finger hole has been sanded too much.. In the US new jewelry is required to have that mark.. And it really should be legible.. You sad the ring needed to be sized.. My guess is that it was sized up by sanding maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 size instead of a sizing using a torch.. This would also contribute to the thinner shank. …"

Hello, Feydakin

First let me thank you for jumping in to help out.

Due to the engraving, which is nearly 360 degrees along the side and outer edges of the shank, the ring was custom ordered to size, which is why it surprised me that the inside of the shank looked as if it had been resized. I assumed it had been an attempt to possibly size it down because most people don''t take under a size 5, and that''s what I ordered (actually, I suspect it may be a 5.25, but I have yet to verify that observation). In any case, the "blank" area where the engraving ends and the sizing area appears is also where the karat mark was stamped on the inside of the shank. I assumed it had been sized because I don''t know what else would have obscured the appearance of having been stamped previously. Presently, only the lower tip of the "K" is legible, and the number is not (I can still make out the "UP" manufacturer mark beside it, however). Under the circumstances, would you advise that I exchange it since it is only 1.3-1.4mm thick in the lowermost portion? Thanks!