What do you think of this vintage sapphire ring?

[ExpatBride]

Help, colored stone lovers!

My boyfriend and I have been shopping for an antique/vintage e-ring. The final choice is up to him, but he's asking for my top 3 choices. I hadn't considered a sapphire, but there's something about this ring... (iPhone photo, but hopefully it gives you the basic idea)



The sapphire is darker than I'd like and looks almost black in low light, which I know is not a particularly attractive attribute in a sapphire, but it's around 70 years old and an unusual cut, so I'm willing to cut it some slack.

The ring is platinum, sapphire is 1.50ct, diamonds are about .75 ct and all of the stones sparkle like crazy, even the sapphire, because of the facets.

The other two choices are diamonds, but they don't "speak" to me like this one does. This is the second marriage for both of us, and I had a big 3-stone diamond ring last time.

I like the idea of choosing to have a sapphire over a diamond, but will I regret having this sapphire? Maybe he'll end up choosing a diamond afterall, but I don't want to be filled with regret if I put this one on the list and it ends up being the one he chooses.

FWIW... I'm building a vintage jewelry collection, so this is not the last piece we'll buy, but it is an important one because it will forever be my e-ring.

 

[digdeep]

I'm not the 'norm' and I often go for the unusual/unique. Does it have a lab certificate? If it truly is one of a kind I would consider playing my own mind games and when it goes dark I'd focus on the beautiful design of the diamonds around the sapphire. Because it is not typical for an engagement ring it would work fine on your left hand, but could also become a RHR if you are going to wear a band on your left hand. A unique ring you won't be seeing everywhere! BUT, this ring would be in my top three and I'd probably label #1, #2, and #3 to 'help' him.....LOL!!

 

[SB621]

OP many art deco pieces have snythetic colored stones as it was quite popular (and actaully quite expensive) for that time period. Because this is soooooo dark I'm leaning towards it being real. I agree the unique aspect of the ring is a real drawl to me too, but the darkness would be a deal breaker. You can do better. Post in the antique form and we will run a search for you. A bunch of gals are great at finding fabulous stuff off ebay, ruby lane, etc.

 

[digdeep]

If it's the sapphire you are concerned about maybe you can contact someone for a replacement stone to replace the center stone. It would no doubt be a custom cut so cost may come into play.......but a potential option for you.

 

[ExpatBride]

I'm so torn. I only want vintage/antique pieces and I'm of the opinion that vintage pieces should be left intact, unless there is a dire reason they need replacing/repair. Swapping the stone would seem wrong to me.

The stone has been tested as natural and untreated, which is in keeping with its color.

To complicate matters, I'm living in Denmark, which is not known for its jewelry scene, so it's a difficult acquisition. I've seen a lot of things I like from dealers in the US, but import tax from outside the EU is 25% and there's no way I'm paying that for nothing! I found this ring (and the others) last month in London.

 

[velouriaL]

I know it's dark, which would not be ideal for a new stone, but I really like the ring and the stone. It speaks to me, and I'd be happy to have it as my ering. I too cut antique pieces some slack. So you say it's sparkly... Sounds great!
I

You just have to go with your gut. If I said, no, you can't have it, it's too dark and you'll regret it, do you feel relieved or sad? A way I often make decisions is to flip a coin and see how I feel about the result of the coin toss and go with that!

 

[athenaworth]

If you do decide to buy it, make sure you check it under magification for gas bubbles and curved color zoning. Something about it raising a synthetic warning flagto me.

 

[SB621]

I'm so torn. I only want vintage/antique pieces and I'm of the opinion that vintage pieces should be left intact, unless there is a dire reason they need replacing/repair. Swapping the stone would seem wrong to me.

The stone has been tested as natural and untreated, which is in keeping with its color.

To complicate matters, I'm living in Denmark, which is not known for its jewelry scene, so it's a difficult acquisition. I've seen a lot of things I like from dealers in the US, but import tax from outside the EU is 25% and there's no way I'm paying that for nothing! I found this ring (and the others) last month in London.

I hear ya with VAT tax!! So frustrating. I'm actually having my MIL bring over some jewelry I recently bought so that way I don't have to pay VAT for the vendor to ship direct!

What is your budget? Like I said before I would still look at other antique online jewelry vendors and ebay. You might find something fantastic and even with VAT still under budget. You would be surprised! And I'm curious to know how it was tested to be untreated and unheated? I don't necessarily doubt that claim but just curious what the vendor is saying about it.

And +1 to Athena's comment.

 

[ExpatBride]

Thanks everyone for taking the time to give your input.

If you do decide to buy it, make sure you check it under magification for gas bubbles and curved color zoning. Something about it raising a synthetic warning flagto me.

Thank you for bringing this up. If it does make it onto the list, I will tell him to proceed with caution on this one.

What is your budget? Like I said before I would still look at other antique online jewelry vendors and ebay. You might find something fantastic and even with VAT still under budget. You would be surprised! And I'm curious to know how it was tested to be untreated and unheated? I don't necessarily doubt that claim but just curious what the vendor is saying about it.

Our max is around £10,000, this ring obviously comes in at less than 1/4 of that. I know we could come in under budget on a fab ring even with VAT, but being an American, I can't justify an additional 25% for nothing just to bring over something from my home country. It would irk me everytime I looked at the ring.

According to the dealer, it's been tested as a real sapphire. The unheated/treated bit is based on its age and color. Sorry if that wasn't clear.

I'm someone who needs to see something on and in person to know whether or not I like it, which make shopping for this sort of thing in Denmark very difficult. When were were shopping in London, there were so many rings that looked lovely in the case, but didn't rock my world on my finger, and vice versa. And there was one ring I found online that I was sure was going to be "the one" but when I finally saw it in person, I could not make peace with the center stone.

 

[chrono]

Natural and synthetic sapphire share the same properties and characteristics, so the usual refractive index testing cannot tell them apart. The only way to differentiate them is by looking at the inclusions via a high powered microscope.

 

[SB621]

I would rather pay VAT and have a nicer ring. Even in America we had to pay tax so do whatever you can to just accept. I can't comment on sapphire quality but here are some options that are out there. Once again I would really start looking at online stores.

http://www.newyorkestatejewelry.com/engagement-rings/4.50ct-ceylon-sapphire-diamond-platinum-engagement-ring/21225/3/item
http://www.newyorkestatejewelry.com/engagement-rings/3.73ct-sapphire-1.00ct-diamond-gold-engagement-ring/23384/3/item
http://www.newyorkestatejewelry.com/engagement-rings/1.96ct-sapphire-0.40ct-diamond-engagement-ring/23282/3/item
http://www.newyorkestatejewelry.com/engagement-rings/3.53ct-ceylon-sapphire-&-diamond-platinum-ring/11210/3/item
http://www.newyorkestatejewelry.com/engagement-rings/2.51ct-sapphire-1.00ct-diamond-engagement-ring/22931/3/item

 

[MollyMalone]

I too suspect that the sapphire is a synthetic one, but I can certainly see why this ring has captured your fancy; it's eye-catching and distinctive, without being "in your face". Will the jeweler agree to first send it to an independent lab (would you be willing to split the cost of that if he balks at absorbing the full expense); might you be interested in purchasing it for your would-be collection of vintage jewelry, even if you'd like your e-ring to be a natural stone & this proves not to be?

Given these experiences
I'm someone who needs to see something on and in person to know whether or not I like it, which make shopping for this sort of thing in Denmark very difficult. When were were shopping in London, there were so many rings that looked lovely in the case, but didn't rock my world on my finger, and vice versa. And there was one ring I found online that I was sure was going to be "the one" but when I finally saw it in person, I could not make peace with the center stone.
your reluctance to put a sight-unseen sapphire ring into the running is understandable; did you find diamond rings more "predictable"?


P.S. Does Denmark impose Customs duty charges on imported jewelry ,in addition to the VAT, were you to purchase a ring from a US merchant; if the jewelry is returned to the US, do you receive a full refund of the VAT and/or duty paid?

 

[VapidLapid]

I'm so torn. I only want vintage/antique pieces and I'm of the opinion that vintage pieces should be left intact, unless there is a dire reason they need replacing/repair. Swapping the stone would seem wrong to me.

The stone has been tested as natural and untreated, which is in keeping with its color.

To complicate matters, I'm living in Denmark, which is not known for its jewelry scene, so it's a difficult acquisition. I've seen a lot of things I like from dealers in the US, but import tax from outside the EU is 25% and there's no way I'm paying that for nothing! I found this ring (and the others) last month in London.

May I ask by whom the stone has been tested and determined to be natural and untreated? I do not know of color an being indicative of anything other than color. Natural sapphire can be that dark, but so can synthetic, especially if poorly cut (pavilion) as well. while it is very difficult to make assessments from a single photo, I would guess that the ring is not high on the finger, it looks almost tabular or lozenge like, as though there is no pavilion at all!

eta: Is the VAT enough that you could take a trip to london to see it, and pick it up, then wear it home as if you've owned it since it was made?

 

[ExpatBride]

Does Denmark impose Customs duty charges on imported jewelry ,in addition to the VAT, were you to purchase a ring from a US merchant; if the jewelry is returned to the US, do you receive a full refund of the VAT and/or duty paid?

That's a very good question, but given the fact that bureaucratic answers here vary by day and who you speak to,I wouldn't be willing to stake a few thousand dollars on the answer on any given day. It's just more of a risk than I'm willing to take and at a rate of 25%+, it's almost the same price for me to fly to NYC and buy a ring in person!

Will the jeweler agree to first send it to an independent lab (would you be willing to split the cost of that if he balks at absorbing the full expense); might you be interested in purchasing it for your would-be collection of vintage jewelry, even if you'd like your e-ring to be a natural stone & this proves not to be?

If he decides to go this route the ring will most definitely have to be evaluated by an independent lab. But the more we think about this one, the more it seems more hassle than its worth.

May I ask by whom the stone has been tested and determined to be natural and untreated?... I would guess that the ring is not high on the finger, it looks almost tabular or lozenge like, as though there is no pavilion at all!

This is what we were told by the jeweler. I don't know who has supposedly tested it. I don't know much about colored stones, which is why I'm in here asking for advice. We will press for satisfactory answers before buying it. But yes, it is a very flat setting and a very flat stone.

Is the VAT enough that you could take a trip to london to see it, and pick it up, then wear it home as if you've owned it since it was made?

I've already seen it in person last month in London, but I really don't know what to look for in sapphires. I was taken by the ring as a whole, and thought the center stone was darker than I'd like, but I rarely find vintage/antique pieces that tick all of the boxes, they're beautiful in their own way, but can't be held to modern standards.

There is no VAT between England and Denmark. We went to London to shop for rings with the idea that we'd have a short list that he could choose from, and have one fo the rings shipped here so that he could surprise me with a proposal and to some degree, the ring.

 

[minousbijoux]

I'll be the odd person out and say that while I love the setting and appreciate that a stone like that might have been the de rigueur style back then, it is just too dark for me. In fact I would either want a sapphire that was blue or I would seriously consider onyx for that black effect. But I'm the minority...

 

[goldfish17]

Hi Expat,

Do you have London sapphire vendors you can recommend? We just moved to London and have been doing most of our search online in the States, since the selection is so much better back at home. It's been a slow search, so I'm shifting my attention to local (London) vendors. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[ExpatBride]

Hi Expat,

Do you have London sapphire vendors you can recommend? We just moved to London and have been doing most of our search online in the States, since the selection is so much better back at home. It's been a slow search, so I'm shifting my attention to local (London) vendors. Any advice would be appreciated.

I recommend contacting Farringdon's in Hatton Garden. I've contacted and visited a lot of London jewelers in my e-ring search, but Farringdon's wins hands down. Their pre- and post-sales service has been outstanding and their pricing is the fairest I've seen in London.

I've bought one sapphire & diamond ring from them, they're currently making a pair of bespoke earrings for me, and I've been speaking with them about sourcing a pair of sapphires for another set of earrings this coming autumn. They specialize in vintage and bespoke pieces, and being in Hatton Garden, they have access to a variety of wholesalers and work on thin margins. Their shop isn't fancy, but they are top-notch.

If you do get in touch with Farringdon's, please tell Victoria that the American girl with the crazy 60's sapphire & diamond spray ring sent you, I'm sure she'll take good care of you!

 

[goldfish17]

Thanks Expat! Will make an appt to check them out.

Good luck with your search!

 

[chrono]

The only vendor in the UK that I know of that is often recommended on PS is TopGem. www.topgem.co.uk

 

[goldfish17]

Thanks Chrono. We did meet with Topgems. The guy was really nice, but the sapphires he had were all slightly smaller than i was looking for. Maybe the English are just a bit more under-stated (in a good way). That was in late Jan, maybe I should reach out again to see if he has any new inventory?

 

[ExpatBride]

Just wanted to post an update...

The ring has been independently appraised and it is in fact a natural sapphire. If we get this one, I may send it to the Gubelin lab in Switzerland to find out its origin, just because I'm curious like that.

I still can't make up my mind about it. Thanks all for your comments!

 

[Niel]

Just wanted to post an update...

The ring has been independently appraised and it is in fact a natural sapphire. If we get this one, I may send it to the Gubelin lab in Switzerland to find out its origin, just because I'm curious like that.

I still can't make up my mind about it. Thanks all for your comments!

After reading your post about how the color isn't what you were looking for and this post about how you're still unsure, I would probably pass. With some time I think you could find a loose sapphire in an interesting color, and you could just do a vintage setting. I know its not genuine vintage that way, but at least you wouldnt feel like you've compromised when looking at your ring.

 

[chrono]

What is his/her definition of "natural sapphire? Does it mean that it is only non synthetic or does it also include that it is untreated? Have you decided whether to go for the ring or keep looking?

 

[ExpatBride]

After reading your post about how the color isn't what you were looking for and this post about how you're still unsure, I would probably pass.

I'm mostly unsure about having a sapphire for my e-ring, not about the ring in general. I hadn't really considered a colored stone e-ring until I saw this one. But, he has a list of 3 excellent choices and I know he'll choose the ring I'm supposed to have.

When I thought it might be synthetic, I felt very disappointed, which I think says a lot about how I feel about the ring.