Watch out for the WALL

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May 24, 2002
Read on another thread be careful of walls with the emerald cut. Is this cut more prone to chipping than say princess or radiant? I had an RB and because of the thin girdle chipped it. I eventually claimed insurance because I couldn't guarantee myself that if it was set in 6 claws the same thing wouldn't happen again. The next diamond I buy will have a thicker girldle and I probably won't wear it as much. I have seen emerald cuts with basket settings. Is this not safe? Does having a French claw make any difference? Cartier have a really beautiful setting at the moment. Emerald cut centre stone claw set with side baguettes graduating in size down the shank channel set. Of course the five carat looked absolutely over the top, but loved the setting. I have also seen this setting on one of the websites with the centre stone half bezel set. It doesn't aesthetically look the same. Any suggestions on setting for centre stone would be welcomed. I have to know that this will work and won't be prone to chipping before I purchase the stones.

ringless, but not desperate.



Dec 31, 1999
Try to find a diamond with a medium girdle. Thin to slightly thick is usually fine.


Jun 10, 2002
A well-made bezel setting protects the girdle and is the most secure setting for any shape stone. How vulnerable your stone is depends on many factors - including how high it's set, the type/number of prongs, size/placement of side stones, the metalwork around the stone, etc.

Prong and claw settings have many advantages - low cost, easy to clean, allows the most light into the diamond for maximum sparkle, quickly set, secure (if prongs were properly done in the first place and then are regularly checked).

A bezel setting will give you a completely different look. If you like the bezel setting for the security and smoothness (no snagging on delicate scarves or sweaters) then check out Tiffany & Co's Atlas line of rings - they have a bezel set emerald-cut diamond ring where the single stone is set sideways (wider rather than longer)and the band is groved all around. Very modern, beautiful and elegant.

If you want to know more about diamond rings, get the book "Diamond Ring Buying Guide" by Renee Newman. It's an excellent reference and her latest edition (Number six, I think) even has information on the latest diamond substitute, Moissanite. If you are thinking of spending thousands on a ring, it's worth spending the $15 for this book first.
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