Voce's Gemstone Ramblings...

[paragon1234]

WSS

What does WSS stand for?

 

[stracci2000]

Yeah, if it was less expensive material, I wouldn't mind sending this in for a recut. That's why I'm trying to ask the experts. But I will have to decide whether to keep this gem, and none of my jewelers are local, really.

@stracci2000 ? Have you ever set a star gen with a wonky backside?

First, @voce, I want to roll around in your rings like a mad
woman! What an impressive collection!
Second, yes, I have seen plenty of stars with wonky backsides.
Uneven, lumpy, etc.
The setting just has to be designed to accommodate all that weight on the bottom.

 

[voce]

Spinels in their uncut natural form are called angel cut spinel. Something like this: https://ivynewyork.com/blogs/news/antique-red-spinel-bangle-sold-at-christie

Wow, now I've got to make a bangle like that with my own! A while back, I was able to buy some from Finewater Gems in smaller sizes.

First, @voce, I want to roll around in your rings like a mad
woman! What an impressive collection!
Second, yes, I have seen plenty of stars with wonky backsides.
Uneven, lumpy, etc.
The setting just has to be designed to accommodate all that weight on the bottom.

Thank you, stracci, for the compliment and the content on stars. The ones I've set before were all more even on the backside.

 

[icy_jade]

That’s why I leave mine to the experts (aka people at the workshops). I’ll have a look at my rings later and see if I have any examples but yeah doesn’t matter and can be done. Have seen lots of wonky backsides while shopping

Hey, I checked and no wonky behinds to show you but it really shouldn’t matter. Any competent bench should be able to set it.

 

[Burmesedaze]

What does WSS stand for?

 

[Starstruck8]

Ok, here's a question for @Burmesedaze@Bluegemz@icy_jade and anyone who has experience setting (or designing settings for) star corundum cabs.

What do you do (how is the setting designed) if the gem is not flat on the bottom? Does it limit you to bezel or prong settings?

Prongs and bezels are both possible. You just have to design for the bases. Here are three approaches. All these (cat's eye chrysoberyl, star spinel, cat's eye sillimanite) have wonky bases. It's because of a large chip in the base that the sillimanite eye is not aligned NS - but I can live with that.

 

[voce]

Ok, I am so excited that all three of these projects are now complete.

For my unset paraibas, it's two down, with two left to go.

However, due to finances, I think I will wait a month or two.

 

[voce]

Posting some questions that I hope folks will give input on. I have quite a number of uniquely shaped gems in various colors. However, I have too many options of how to combine them. I want to ask your opinions on this selection of gems. Numbering the photos for reference.

A


B


C


D


First question: I have a pair of sleepy red spinels, and I don't like how they look next to clean and sparkly gems. Option A: set with the sleepy chrysoberyls in five stone layout. Option B: commission rose cut diamonds in approximately the same size as chrysoberyls to set. Option C: commission or wait for sleepy blue sapphires in approximately the same size as chrysoberyls to set in five stone layout. Option D: other, please specify.

Question two regarding the five piece Burmese ruby set: which layout (shape) do you prefer? The layout with the unique emerald and bullet diamonds (pic A), the simplest layout with the smaller chubby pear (pic B), or the most lavish layout with the largest pear (pic C)?

Question three: supposing I want the Burmese rubies to be the star of the show, do you think it would be better for me to get A) rose cut colorless diamonds B) faceted colorless diamonds or C) colored stones for the pendant?

Question four: is the emerald gem better used in the angel layout or the ruby pendant layout?

Question five: would it be a waste to use such clean bullet diamonds with such an included red spinel? It has been at least a year since I got it, and I suspect it was oiled at the time it was sold to me because I don't remember it being so included when I bought it.

If your answer to question five was yes, what would you do with the included red spinel if you still wanted to wear/see it? Would you just use it as a color reference and not set it?

@T_L @2Neezers @Autumn in New England @elle_71125 @ItsMainelyYou @LilAlex @icy_jade @Avondale @VividRed @JackTrick
I'm sure there's a lot of folks I forgot, but I welcome all your opinions.

 

[LilAlex]

You have a much better eye for this type of combination than I do. But here goes.

In addition to the adorable angel motif (and I was initially thinking you could lengthen that with an arcing trio of rounds -- but then it turns into an emerald-nose face), this combination jumped out at me and I'm of course thinking rose gold.



Q1: This is tough -- too sleepy to set next to sparkly gems and (presumably) too sleepy to set next to other sleepy gems. Sleepy gems are hard to "elevate" simply by the company they keep.

Q2: Pic C by a mile but that's just me. At first I thought it might not "go" but looking (and thinking) of your other creative success stories, I think it could be worth a big swing. Btw, what is that center stone...?

Q3:

...faceted colorless diamonds...

...but in an eternity-type alternating pattern band. Not your MO, I know.

Q4: I don't love red and green together -- apart from the bright, clean, pastel tones in your other creations.

Q5: Not a "waste" but not the best use case, imo. Like one of the other questions above, I think the spinel suffers in comparison. And they have the look of tiny bumblebee wings on a fat spinel when it is not, in fact, a fat spinel. The bullets would look lovely with one (!) of the rubies, imo.

What an amazing collection to arrange and re-arrange and...!

 

[voce]

You have a much better eye for this type of combination than I do. But here goes.

In addition to the adorable angel motif (and I was initially thinking you could lengthen that with an arcing trio of rounds -- but then it turns into an emerald-nose face), this combination jumped out at me and I'm of course thinking rose gold.



Q1: This is tough -- too sleepy to set next to sparkly gems and (presumably) too sleepy to set next to other sleepy gems. Sleepy gems are hard to "elevate" simply by the company they keep.

Q2: Pic C by a mile but that's just me. At first I thought it might not "go" but looking (and thinking) of your other creative success stories, I think it could be worth a big swing. Btw, what is that center stone...?

Q3:


...but in an eternity-type alternating pattern band. Not your MO, I know.

Q4: I don't love red and green together -- apart from the bright, clean, pastel tones in your other creations.

Q5: Not a "waste" but not the best use case, imo. Like one of the other questions above, I think the spinel suffers in comparison. And they have the look of tiny bumblebee wings on a fat spinel when it is not, in fact, a fat spinel. The bullets would look lovely with one (!) of the rubies, imo.

What an amazing collection to arrange and re-arrange and...!

Regarding your comment on pendant layout C, that pear is a Loliondo spess. I like the layout, but the problem is that the spess is livelier than the rubies and steals the show even though it cost me maybe 10% of what the rubies cost. If I tried to get a diamond that won't steal the show, in that size, I'd need to wait a couple of years at least to set. And speaking of the spess, it's under contention for another project...





If I want to do a "citrus" colors inspired (mandarin orange, grapefruit, lime, lemon) ring, should I use the concave spess, pear spess, or yellow tourmaline as the center stone?

Also, should I use the bullets with my beryl?
Hexagon aquamarine, radiant cut aquamarine, or with the goshenite in another pendant layout?

 

[CHRISTY-DANIELLE]

@voce Slightly off topic- where do you get the display boxes?
What do you use to move the gems around? I find trying to get the gems to cooperate so frustrating and my clumsy sausage fingers don't help the matter any.

 

[luckygreen317]

Posting some questions that I hope folks will give input on. I have quite a number of uniquely shaped gems in various colors. However, I have too many options of how to combine them. I want to ask your opinions on this selection of gems. Numbering the photos for reference.

A


B


C


D


First question: I have a pair of sleepy red spinels, and I don't like how they look next to clean and sparkly gems. Option A: set with the sleepy chrysoberyls in five stone layout. Option B: commission rose cut diamonds in approximately the same size as chrysoberyls to set. Option C: commission or wait for sleepy blue sapphires in approximately the same size as chrysoberyls to set in five stone layout. Option D: other, please specify.

Question two regarding the five piece Burmese ruby set: which layout (shape) do you prefer? The layout with the unique emerald and bullet diamonds (pic A), the simplest layout with the smaller chubby pear (pic B), or the most lavish layout with the largest pear (pic C)?

Question three: supposing I want the Burmese rubies to be the star of the show, do you think it would be better for me to get A) rose cut colorless diamonds B) faceted colorless diamonds or C) colored stones for the pendant?

Question four: is the emerald gem better used in the angel layout or the ruby pendant layout?

Question five: would it be a waste to use such clean bullet diamonds with such an included red spinel? It has been at least a year since I got it, and I suspect it was oiled at the time it was sold to me because I don't remember it being so included when I bought it.

If your answer to question five was yes, what would you do with the included red spinel if you still wanted to wear/see it? Would you just use it as a color reference and not set it?

@T_L @2Neezers @Autumn in New England @elle_71125 @ItsMainelyYou @LilAlex @icy_jade @Avondale @VividRed @JackTrick
I'm sure there's a lot of folks I forgot, but I welcome all your opinions.

I have so many questions rather than suggestions! Where do you source your melee? I have been struggling to find (dark blue) sapphire and rosecut melee. I am also interested in the boxes you are using to lay out the stones.

 

[2Neezers]

Posting some questions that I hope folks will give input on. I have quite a number of uniquely shaped gems in various colors. However, I have too many options of how to combine them. I want to ask your opinions on this selection of gems. Numbering the photos for reference.

A


B


C


D


First question: I have a pair of sleepy red spinels, and I don't like how they look next to clean and sparkly gems. Option A: set with the sleepy chrysoberyls in five stone layout. Option B: commission rose cut diamonds in approximately the same size as chrysoberyls to set. Option C: commission or wait for sleepy blue sapphires in approximately the same size as chrysoberyls to set in five stone layout. Option D: other, please specify.

Question two regarding the five piece Burmese ruby set: which layout (shape) do you prefer? The layout with the unique emerald and bullet diamonds (pic A), the simplest layout with the smaller chubby pear (pic B), or the most lavish layout with the largest pear (pic C)?

Question three: supposing I want the Burmese rubies to be the star of the show, do you think it would be better for me to get A) rose cut colorless diamonds B) faceted colorless diamonds or C) colored stones for the pendant?

Question four: is the emerald gem better used in the angel layout or the ruby pendant layout?

Question five: would it be a waste to use such clean bullet diamonds with such an included red spinel? It has been at least a year since I got it, and I suspect it was oiled at the time it was sold to me because I don't remember it being so included when I bought it.

If your answer to question five was yes, what would you do with the included red spinel if you still wanted to wear/see it? Would you just use it as a color reference and not set it?

@T_L @2Neezers @Autumn in New England @elle_71125 @ItsMainelyYou @LilAlex @icy_jade @Avondale @VividRed @JackTrick
I'm sure there's a lot of folks I forgot, but I welcome all your opinions.

You have a beautiful collection of gems! How much fun it must be to try the different arrangements. There are so many possibilities!

Question 1: Option 2 would be my pick, but Option 3 would look beautiful as well!

Question 2: I like layout B, it caught my eye right away!

Question 3: I think diamonds would make the rubies the star, and since I haven’t seen rose cuts in person would play it safe and go with B.

Question 4: I think I’d pick the angel layout, since I picked layout B in question 2.

Question 5: I don’t think it would it be a waste to use clean bullet diamonds with an included red spinel, as long as you are happy with the spinel and don’t have mind-clean issues about the inclusions.

I can’t wait to see what you do with these stones!

 

[voce]

@CHRISTY-DANIELLE @luckygreen317

The gem boxes:
Back in 2019 I bought a 25-pack from Inken, if I recall correctly. You have to get them through a trade member. I think at the time they only cost $60 for 25, and I've only used 15 boxes max so far. Over time the sticky gel lids adhere to the top of the gem less well, and especially if you get dust in the gel, so over time you may have to transfer to a new box. I use tweezers I bought off Amazon to move my gems around to create the layouts.

Doing a search on Google for sticky gel lid gem box yielded the finding that Joe Henley is selling them online.

Gel Gem Boxes - BACK IN STOCK!

Our exclusive Gel Gem Boxes were a such a huge hit the last time we offered them that they sold out fast! We are thrilled to have acquired more and to have them back in stock. These boxes have become quite popular with collectors. Originally developed for the microchip industry to hold chips...

joehenleyrough.com

 

[luckygreen317]

@CHRISTY-DANIELLE @luckygreen317

The gem boxes:
Back in 2019 I bought a 25-pack from Inken, if I recall correctly. You have to get them through a trade member. I think at the time they only cost $60 for 25, and I've only used 15 boxes max so far. Over time the sticky gel lids adhere to the top of the gem less well, and especially if you get dust in the gel, so over time you may have to transfer to a new box. I use tweezers I bought off Amazon to move my gems around to create the layouts.

Doing a search on Google for sticky gel lid gem box yielded the finding that Joe Henley is selling them online.

Gel Gem Boxes - BACK IN STOCK!

Our exclusive Gel Gem Boxes were a such a huge hit the last time we offered them that they sold out fast! We are thrilled to have acquired more and to have them back in stock. These boxes have become quite popular with collectors. Originally developed for the microchip industry to hold chips...

joehenleyrough.com

THANK YOU!!

 

[voce]

THANK YOU!!

You're welcome. I think I forgot to answer where I got so many melee gems. I find that Cecile Raley Designs on Etsy has the best selection of melee available in listings. However, I've also sourced melee from Enhoerning Jewelry before and have picked up the odd lot from other PSers and once or twice from Mastercut Gems and Litnon.

 

[voce]

You have a beautiful collection of gems! How much fun it must be to try the different arrangements. There are so many possibilities!

Question 1: Option 2 would be my pick, but Option 3 would look beautiful as well!

Question 2: I like layout B, it caught my eye right away!

Question 3: I think diamonds would make the rubies the star, and since I haven’t seen rose cuts in person would play it safe and go with B.

Question 4: I think I’d pick the angel layout, since I picked layout B in question 2.

Question 5: I don’t think it would it be a waste to use clean bullet diamonds with an included red spinel, as long as you are happy with the spinel and don’t have mind-clean issues about the inclusions.

I can’t wait to see what you do with these stones!

@LilAlex @2Neezers I'm leaning towards getting a rose-cut diamond to stand in for the pear shape. I really love how the sleepy red spinels hold their color and think they might look fab next to rose-cut diamonds. Here's non-sunny diffused natural light; the spess is truly as neon to my eye as the camera picked up in the lower picture, hence to do the rubies justice I'll set them with a less-prima-donna center gem.

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

Sleepy spinels with double rose cuts and the chryso with crisper stones (red,white, or blu/gre)
The marq/dutch gosh and ruby with the bullets I just love, though you could replace the bullets with another shape/color and keep general feel.
I am partial to little angel baby, because adorable.

I would be happy with either the hex aqua or spinel in a three stone with the bullets. It depends on what color you have underrepresented in the collection at the moment. The hex can be made into something more elaborate easily as it has the cutting to support. The included spinel will be best set simply. Color is it's strong suit.

 

[elle_71125]

I think you have a much better eye for gems combos, but I’ll add my 2 cents.

Q1. I would go with rose cut diamonds next to the sleepy spinels. I feel like the rose cuts would let the red pop the most.

Q2. I’m stuck between layout B and layout C. I like the shape of C better, but I like the pretty purple pear in layout B.

I really love that adorable angel layout!

 

[voce]

I think you have a much better eye for gems combos, but I’ll add my 2 cents.

Q1. I would go with rose cut diamonds next to the sleepy spinels. I feel like the rose cuts would let the red pop the most.

Q2. I’m stuck between layout B and layout C. I like the shape of C better, but I like the pretty purple pear in layout B.

I really love that adorable angel layout!

Thanks for your thoughts, @elle_71125 !

I like the shape of C better as well. Maybe I can work the pretty spinel into another project with rubies?


I'm having a couple of star rubies set with more rubies and diamonds. I am playing with the layout right now.

What if I have the purple spinel set in place of where the bail would be on the pendant?

 

[elle_71125]

Thanks for your thoughts, @elle_71125 !

I like the shape of C better as well. Maybe I can work the pretty spinel into another project with rubies?


I'm having a couple of star rubies set with more rubies and diamonds. I am playing with the layout right now.

What if I have the purple spinel set in place of where the bail would be on the pendant?

You're so creative with your stones and melee. I just sit on my melee like 'now what?" Lol

You should take a picture of this pink melee with the purple spinel. I like the idea of it in the bail area, but I can't tell if these pinks look good with the purple.

 

[Starstruck8]

I'm having a couple of star rubies set with more rubies and diamonds. I am playing with the layout right now.

What if I have the purple spinel set in place of where the bail would be on the pendant?

Apologies if I'm misunderstanding - are you planning to set one of the star rubies in a pendant? I have always thought that star stones are great for rings but not so good for pendants. The problem is that when they are lit and viewed from above (which is normal for a pendant) the star won't look centred - the centre of the star will always be in the lower part of the stone, if visible at all.

I love your collection of reds and pinks and I love the left layout.

 

[voce]

You're so creative with your stones and melee. I just sit on my melee like 'now what?" Lol

You should take a picture of this pink melee with the purple spinel. I like the idea of it in the bail area, but I can't tell if these pinks look good with the purple.

Well, I don't have the rubies in hand. I'll have to send the purple spinel to Inken to see what she says. On second thought... I really love the look of the purple spinel next to the included red spinel. Cluster ring or bracelet, maybe?

Apologies if I'm misunderstanding - are you planning to set one of the star rubies in a pendant? I have always thought that star stones are great for rings but not so good for pendants. The problem is that when they are lit and viewed from above (which is normal for a pendant) the star won't look centred - the centre of the star will always be in the lower part of the stone, if visible at all.

I love your collection of reds and pinks and I love the left layout.

Yes, a pendant because they are not close enough in size to do a toi et moi, nor earrings. Good point, I'll have to remember to get a long chain so I can view my pendant from the palm of my hand when I look down.

 

[Autumn in New England]

I'm late to the party, as usual, so I'm not even sure if my answers will be of any help at this point. But here goes!

1. I think the sleepy spinels and chrysoberyls are an interesting and unexpected color combo. Might sleepy (not too dark) blue sapphires be a better compliment to the chryso? Perhaps. What would you do with the spinels in that case?

2-4. Like @LilAlex, I vastly prefer the layout of "C" using the spess pear! And that little emerald angel combo is adorbs.

5. I love, love, love the diamond bullets with the hexagon aqua. They look made for one another, and for me, it's not even a contest over the spinel and radiant aqua.

Good luck! This is going to be fun!!

 

[voce]

I'm late to the party, as usual, so I'm not even sure if my answers will be of any help at this point. But here goes!

1. I think the sleepy spinels and chrysoberyls are an interesting and unexpected color combo. Might sleepy (not too dark) blue sapphires be a better compliment to the chryso? Perhaps. What would you do with the spinels in that case?

2-4. Like @LilAlex, I vastly prefer the layout of "C" using the spess pear! And that little emerald angel combo is adorbs.

5. I love, love, love the diamond bullets with the hexagon aqua. They look made for one another, and for me, it's not even a contest over the spinel and radiant aqua.

Good luck! This is going to be fun!!

I think sleepy unheated blue sapphires are more expensive than diamonds! If I could afford them, I'd surely pair them with a red sleepy stone, not chrysoberyl. The cover of Ruby & Sapphire is what I love with vivid red and vivid blue next to each other.

The spess pear I've wanted to keep for a citrus colored piece, like so. The gems are not as juicy and glowing under indoor light.



Would you say the bullets look better with the hexagon aqua than with this round unheated sapphire? I think size-wise, the proportions are better with a smaller center stone.

 

[Autumn in New England]

Would you say the bullets look better with the hexagon aqua than with this round unheated sapphire? I think size-wise, the proportions are better with a smaller center stone.

Absolutely... I am not a fan of bullets with round centers. But you may be.

Sorry, I definitely misunderstood you about what to pair with the sleepy sapphires. I agree!

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

I think sleepy unheated blue sapphires are more expensive than diamonds! If I could afford them, I'd surely pair them with a red sleepy stone, not chrysoberyl. The cover of Ruby & Sapphire is what I love with vivid red and vivid blue next to each other.

The spess pear I've wanted to keep for a citrus colored piece, like so. The gems are not as juicy and glowing under indoor light.



Would you say the bullets look better with the hexagon aqua than with this round unheated sapphire? I think size-wise, the proportions are better with a smaller center stone.

Hold on! Watcha doin' with those blue sapphires in the middle?! Ring? Pendant? It's a really pretty arrangement.

 

[voce]

Hold on! Watcha doin' with those blue sapphires in the middle?! Ring? Pendant? It's a really pretty arrangement.

Thank you, I haven't quite decided. Even if/when I decide, it's going to be quite a while before I will have the money to set them.

I think I might set the angel first, as the colors are suitable for Christmas this year.

 

[voce]

I think this is my last project for 2023. Given how I've exceeded my budget for purchasing purses and perfumes, I am going to try out a no-buy year starting tomorrow. This will also apply to custom projects for jewelry, as this last project has cost more than one month of take home pay for me, and my personal life goal are to build up some savings in the bank as well as improve my health.

So, the inspiration for setting the star rubies is this Raymond C. Yard design I saw on 1stDibs a few years back. I just love the mix of sleep cuts and brilliant cuts. The star rubies I had purchased were nowhere near as large as the star ruby of the original inspiration, so where Inken circled double baguettes we went with a smaller princess cut, and found tapered baguettes in a similar proportion to my stones as the original inspiration.

Here's the finished necklace and ring. I am very happy with how they turned out. The inner halo is similar to Mr. Yard's design, but Inken and I used more unheated ruby melee to give more coverage and emphasize the contrast. So think of this as the anti-target option that achieves the same effect.

I was pretty particular about emphasizing a pointy sharp geometry on the unheated rubies at the sides of the ring, whereas on the pendant I wanted a different, more classic geometry, but to add in some"quirkiness" we did some asymmetric by-the-yard pink sapphire and diamond melee in a 2.0mm chain. All the metal is platinum to stay close to the art deco inspiration.


The colors in diffused light are nice but nothing special, but under sunlight the diamonds flash and the brilliant cut rubies are fiery and complement the star corundum perfectly. I feel privileged to have worked with Inken because she understands what I want and safeguards quality and staying true to my vision.

 

[voce]

Just saving a future inspiration for myself after my no-buy year.


I don't wear anklets, but imagine a bracelet where colored gems are bezeled as the shell of sea turtles. Emeralds and blue sapphires and maybe some blue-green tourmaline (because I'd worry about paraiba shattering whereas other tourmalines are easier to replace.